Roller Shutter

  • Hardware Contributor

    cool. it could be interesting. I thought about triacs and making my own power supply too and for lots of reasons I choosed relays and hilink.

    • I wanted something the most secure and galvanic isolated.. and for triac you would need an opto. then multiply by 2 for Up and Down. So for one rail, counting all components involved, footprint is near relay, maybe bigger.
    • omron relays are small and not power eager. I don't enable two at same time for rollershutter motor.
    • triac makes more emi. Add to this an homemade powersupply...I wanted to be sure for radio..
    • I think fibaro rollershutter uses relays (two). If triacs was a good option I think they would have used it as they uses triac in others products. but I am note sure, I have none of these. I just looked at their docs.

    Anyway, your way is interesting too! try and test I will follow your work for sure πŸ˜‰

  • @scalz : at this time, I 'm only explore different ways. I've got some HI-LINK but in your design i'm not sure it fit with an enclosure into a 67mm wall box.

  • Hardware Contributor

    yes I understand. I thought exactly about same problematic. my design is 47x48. I was hoping to make smaller too.
    another cool idea could be to make custom wallbox...with touch sensor plate or gesture recognition.

  • @scalz
    I'm following this post closely I like the idea, I have some motors controlled via RF but I don't like the controllers or the reliability. I will see how to retrofit them with your controller after you have tested and did all the hard work! πŸ˜‰ I believe I can just Hijack the motor wires and use the relays and the boards for all the logic. I like what you have setup but I will have to see your sketch first.

    I have some old Hunter Douglass motorized shutters that use IR remote I hacked them with an reed relay on a node that acts as a push button. Just like pushing the button on the motor. Unfortunately the new shutters I got don't have a manual push button or I would do the same.

  • @scalz any news ? I just find this library (from @Marvin-Roger) :
    After few days, I think you are using the right way with HI-LINK and Relay. It coud be better to user interlocking between relay becaus shutters doesn't like to have AC on 2 inputs simultaneously (and will be dead). This can be a problem. But you have to find relay with 2 poles.

  • @scalz any news ?

  • Hardware Contributor

    @Didi: sorry, I am very late on my projects. Busy at my daily job. some projects not presented yet; and those which I started here too..and actually I have some projects in teamworking with Charles from! I don't sleep too much, tired, but it's ok πŸ˜‰

    So for this project, some changes that I have done recently (thx to @Fabien for his ideas too πŸ˜‰ 😞

    • bigger relays and interlocking between them : 1x10A NO and 1x10A NO-NC
    • tvs diode, transistors...replaced by MDC3105dual relay driver: smaller footprint
    • some reorganization : now I have enough place to make another board and replace nrf with rfm.

    These changes mean that it is not a pure dual relay anymore. Too bad for me as I wanted something dual relay+shutter. But I have still my previous dual relay design. So now I have two boards to update! First, rollershutter (I will try to upload my files tonight, I hope, not sure...) and dual relay board (same thing...).Did I say that I have not enough work πŸ˜† ??

    something important to know is this new rev is not tested, and boards not ordered yet. Of course, I have debbuged things, and it should work. I know someone who wants to order it but I have not given to him my files yet. Thanks to him, it is to participate to money and debug, as it costs money to dev...

  • Hardware Contributor

  • SSR is not a good solution because the snubber depends on loads. And zero crossing triac could be a problem with motors (phase between current and voltage). And with SSR you can't have interlocking between up and down (could damage your motor). Finaly in term of space, you have to put a varistor so it's not smaller than the relay scalz use.

  • Hardware Contributor

    I have updated my git and my first post with details about my latest revision of this board πŸ˜ƒ
    I just need to check one or two things on the BOM before upload it too.

  • Just soldering. Missing some componments.

  • Hardware Contributor

    πŸ‘ too fast! I have to run now, ahaha πŸ™‚

  • Board finished.
    Test :

    • ATMEGA328p ok. Setting fuses and loading optiboot/DualOptiboot.
    • LED ok πŸ™‚ (blink test) With DualOptiboot you need to reset device after uploading new sketch.
    • ATSHA ok with test exemple
    • EEPROM ok with Write/read test
    • Realys ok wit simple commands.
    • Regulator 3.3V Ok

    Need to test : Radio (RFM69W) and current sensor.

    Some photos :
    1_1453846320559_IMG_20160126_225347.jpg 0_1453846320558_IMG_20160126_225334.jpg

  • Hardware Contributor

    great news πŸ™‚ thx for helping me on this πŸ˜‰
    for AC connection insulation on bottom, I am planning to use pcb varnish and liquidtape. Liquidtape is not so cheap, but can be useful for other things..

  • Last news ! Radio work ok and MySensors too.
    Upload RelaySketch and I can control relay with MYSController ! Wow !

  • Plugin Developer


    Great news! I've been waiting for this board to be tested and approved.

    Is it possible to use the two relays to control two individual lines, for example two different lights? I read above that for the roller shutter function with a motor, the relays were interconnected. But If the use case is plain switching lights, can you work around this easily?

  • can we control our windows curtains using this????

  • Hardware Contributor

    I have uploaded it on openhardware. I still need to upload the BOM, as I need to make better the linl between my git, I have to enter my BOM manually for the moment.
    I will put some real pics soon too, or maybe yours @Fabien ?

    @martinhjelmare : the first rev I did was like you want, two relays in parallel for individual lines.
    But guys asked me (here and at jeedom) if instead, I could interconnect it to protect the rollershutter motor. They were right so I made the change. Unfortunately, this can't be changed on the rev2. I wanted to do it but I had not enough room onboard for route cleareance...
    But I will upload my first rev asap, I am already using one at my job. I just need to check if my files are ok πŸ˜‰

    @jemish: if it is something like rollershutter node motor, it should work. I don't know what do you mean by windows curtains. Can you show me what is it please?

    Last note, the 0-100% opening depends on the ACS712. I have not tested yet on this new rev, nor Fabien. It's in a very good progress πŸ™‚

  • @scalz You can take my pics.

  • @Fabien I can't see the antenna on your pictures, where is it ?
    Could you tell me the actual height please (RFM69W version) ?
    If I correctly read the thread, I understand that the dimension are 47x48, is it right for RFM69 version ?

  • @fets you're right, on the pics, antenna is note present (8.2 cm wire). Height is 2cm. Board size is the same (47x48 mm) for both NRF24 and RFM69 versions.

  • @Fabien thanks, good news.

  • @scalz said:

    Last note, the 0-100% opening depends on the ACS712. I have not tested yet on this new rev, nor Fabien. It's in a very good progress

    How are you doing on the 0-100% code function?
    Im doing the same thing for a greenhouse sides opening controller using 2 relays and V_PERCENTAGE.

    Im not having great luck at the part of passing the value from the controller to the function to execute running for X number of milliseconds (will add the current sense you suggest later it is a great idea but trying hardcoded travel time for now)

    Just wondering if you had any code to share that could shed light on my current project.


  • Hardware Contributor

    @jserfaty I will try to share some code as soon as possible, sorry being late on this. Bzzz, bzzz I'm like a bee sometimes πŸ˜†
    In sketch, I will have two options:

    • automatic calibration with current sense..
    • or a fixed calibration, a time travel set in sketch.

    So I will try to look if I have nothing ugly in my sketch asap (there is already someone waiting for this ;))
    And a note, for others, about the board, I'm thinking to reduce size if possible to fit better in wallbox but I would like to keep hilink.

  • Maybe look at this one: Arduino shutters

    I am using this one with my 8ch relay board. Working fine here!

  • Hardware Contributor

    @kenci yep I am using this one πŸ˜‰ it's time based in the sketch. and nice class.
    I just need to add an auto calibration if using current sensor

  • @scalz, I love this project. I am waiting your last changes (in a code), then I wold test it in my home!, thank you very much for share it.


  • @scalz are you going to sell this on as a complete module?

  • Hardware Contributor

    @kenci I think so...this is a very nice new feature on openhardware, not only for commission (sure that could help a little bit for dev cost..) but, more interesting is to have competitive price for some device and make these available for others, that's excellent πŸ™‚ I can't wait to test this, to see what will be the quotation..I will try to do my best πŸ˜‰

  • Hi @scalz great work i am working a project like yours but i do not understand teh principle of MDC3105. The shematic i made like yours is below, search a little but don't find anything about it. Is it correct without any resistor, diode etc.?
    alt text

    The normal schematic is below with diode, resistor, transistor etc.

    alt text

    Thanks for share it.

  • Hardware Contributor

    @ddos Yes, that would work - if VIN1 is pin 5, VOUT1 is pin 6, VIN2 is pin 2 and VOUT2 is pin 3, that is.

    It's a bad habbit to have "double pins" in the schematic. You should really make a pin for each ground connection - just my 2 bits.

    BR Jonas

  • @jbjalling thanks for your quick reply. If this is gonna works without any additional parts my board has more space. I copy the device @scalz schematic i am going to do new library with two GND for it thanks again.

  • Hardware Contributor

    jballing is right. the relay driver already handle this. it's integrated, less footprint. be careful playing with AC, you need to know what you do πŸ˜‰

    btw I am a bit cheap on pics and late I know 😊 a bit busy too but few pics of what it looks..

    45x44mm seems to fit ok. millings for additional distance etc...

  • @ddos, Hi Srs., at first moment.. thank you very match to share this project, I like to try this project in my home but I don't know where are the library/code to try to use in my system., someone know where I can found it? πŸ˜‰

    Thank you.

  • @anarro sparkfun libraries is good you can find them on github and of course adafruit library. If the device you are looking for is not in the libraries you can find them on google 80% chance. If you can not find them on net you should do your own devices.

  • @scalz your pcb and cutouts look very good for voltage protection but i think you need a case for 230V AC pins which are touchable right now.

  • Hardware Contributor

    thx. of course! i will print an insulating box with some air vents. and i will add some liquid tape for isloating the pads πŸ˜‰

    for software, i need some time to clean and test it. and i am playing with others things+ etc.. I already shared the sketch with only one beta tester here, for the moment. but of course i will share it asap πŸ™‚

  • Made my first test tonight. Only a proof of concept with the first board and without auto-calibration. Yes I know, I have only blue wire near me ...

  • @scalz Hi, I know that you work (I readed your another posts) with code to use with this board, with sensor current and auto calibrate options... so if you need..I can help you.. or I can try it...(-;

    Thank you.

  • Hardware Contributor

    @Fabien great πŸ‘ .did you try the sketch too? I will improve it a bit πŸ˜‰
    @anarro : thx. I will install one board at the end of the week and will try to make a small video of the thing actuated by another cool thing I am finishing πŸ™‚

  • @scalz ok, I m waiting you news... good news!! πŸ˜‰

  • @Fabien Great demo with blue wire πŸ™‚
    It seems the board will not fit in the wall case behind the switch because of the height, did you try to fit it?

  • @scalz
    Hi, can you install and test the board?, do you have a some news??

  • Personnaly I wait for EEPROM (the one I solder are not compatible). And I will try autocalibration.
    And I will make PCB with the last version when release (smaller) and a plastic case (3D print) ... Lot of work !

  • What happened with this project? Has been abandoned or finished successfully?
    Have you tried automatic calibration?

  • Hardware Contributor

    Yes this is a finished project on my side.
    You can get more informations about this project here

  • @scalz Does the NOD works with domoticz? Is it possible to communicate with rs485?

  • Hi! Is this thread alive? I found this and it's a great piece of soft+hw. Immediately aborted my attempt and adopted this one.

    It has however some space for imrovements. So far I have identified two issues that I needed to correct:

    1. Report current position of the rollershutter. It's needed by my controller (openhab via mqtt) in order to show the real position of the shutters. It's working.

    2. The openhab controller also happens to have reversed the 0-100 percent concept of closed/opened, so I reversed that in software.

    Are you interested in having some pull request with these modifications? I'm glad to do that.

    Thanks a lot for your effort.


  • Hi @Guillermo-Schimmel , right now I'm just trying to do what you did. I'm interested in building a home automation system based on openhab and a raspberry pi from scratch, which reliably controls the roller shutters at home. I have already built one in the past, very basic, which using some relays turns on and off the lights and allow to simulate the pressure of the buttons at home raising and lowering the blinds. However it lacks to indicate their real position, and moreover, by pressing physical buttons at home, their new state (fully up or down) can not be communicated to openhab, so I can't know if they are really up or down. So I decided to start from scratch building also a new control unit for the shutters. The hardware of this project is extremely interesting, but I can not figure out how to interface it with openhab.
    My idea would therefore be to build two control units, a primary - which I will use for the lights and other sensors, very similar to the one I already built and use - and a second one dedicated to the shutters, based on this project but with the possibility to manage five shutters and connected to the first with serial or rs485 (they would be very close, so I would avoid the radio section with attached authentication). Can you help me, giving me information about the connection between this project and openhab, so I can succeed in this little adventure?

  • The combination openhab (2.3)+mqtt (mosquitto)+mqtt gateway+mysensor nodes works perfect end to end.

    The rollershutter node, with a small addition to report position works perfect just as-is.

    I wouldn't try to do the comms other way than nrf24 (perhaps nrf5x in the future). It's cheap and easy.

    If you have some specific question I will be glad to help you. I'm convinced OpenHAB is the best home automation controller, but sometimes can be a little difficult to start things up.

  • Hi. I am building the roller shutter node myself and i am in trouble for programming it.
    I have an USBASP connected to it but i can't figure out.
    I install the driver, but when i try to burn bootloader from arduino program i have an error.

    Arduino : 1.8.5 (Windows 10), Carte : "Arduino/Genuino Uno"
    avrdude: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update.
    avrdude: error: program enable: target doesn't answer. 1 
    avrdude: initialization failed, rc=-1
             Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override
             this check.

    I try with a stock arduino uno and it's working fine.
    Do i need to tweak something cause on the shutter node there is a 8Mhz clock ?
    Or i just fail soldering ?


  • I really don't know, I can't help you much. My sugestion would be to back down to a simpler sketch like blink, use the standard arduino ide and try everything. Just then move to more complex projects like roller shutter.

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