@fets So far, I have only built the 5x5 board (but the others should be schematically identical). The only issue I have found so far is that I cannot get the ISP port to work. But I have checked and I have an identical setup on the 1.0 board and that worked, so I suspect the programmer is too weak to drive the net on this one. So it is not a board-issue per se, and might only be an issue on the 5x5 board as routing is the most complex on that one due to the size.
Thanks again, learned a lot... I decide to give a try there, I also had a look on some components' datasheet and seems to be what I need... Let's see, if end up getting the boards I'll publish a review here later.
You can put 100uf on each even 200uf would not be able to handle only one tx, so..
but you need them at least for coin cells.
you would need more capa to handle tx..but the more capa the more time they take for recharging, and the recharging if big, increase internal res of the coin cell and that's not so good too; to prevent this that would need a current resistor limiter..etc a whole balance!
On mine for instance, I have 100uF for coincell, 100uF for PIR and 86uf on radio. Fresh varta coincell 3.02V, after multiple presentation tx 2.85V if I remember, not so bad. but that's an homemade pcb.
Another notes, it's better to use ceramic capacitor (because of leakage, if you want to optimize), and better smd, but that's not your case I think.
Hi @tbowmo, do you mind to explain a bit about the design? I'm interested with your design.
I will use these steps for removing voltage regulator, http://goo.gl/CsZaNg
So the design will be battery > external step up regulator (http://goo.gl/PFt99R - to stabilize 3.3v) > vcc pin ?
with these then I can use my first post design?
Thanks
@nekitoss
I used 3.3V pro mini with regulator removed and powered by Vin pin. Also removed leds from the pro mini.
I used minicore bootloader.
I used the small pir sensors and again removed the regulator to power directly from the pro mini outputs.
After that sleep the node and trigger on interrupt.
Send battery level once a day.
Use inbuilt battery level monitor and not external components that constantly drain power to get battery level.
1.8V is 0% on the graph (not visible yet!) but I have had nodes working below 1.7V It's a matter of luck with that it seems.
Hope this helps you on the right track. I'll try and help if you want.
This is the latest image and still going strong after 18 months. Voltage is at 2.903V
Here is photo of the test example - I need to make a case and produce more of them over winter.....
Here is the same build/code of a window sensor. Similar time frame but hardly triggered.....
