@Didou After a few days of test of your NRF fix, I can say there is a huge improuvement either for USB, AC supply or battery powered nodes, they just do not failed ! this is great. thanks for your efforts improving the mysensor code
It's a while since the mysensor master has been updated, any ideas when it's goanna happend, it will also be good for others to benefits
I just gave this design to pcb fab and cant wait to test it out. I made and tested a similar board using nrf52840 but soldering aQFN package is a nightmare and i needed to cancel quite abit of pins to increase the success chance.
So this design is based on nrf52832with a normal QFN package which is easy to solder and that allowed me to breakout every single pin (except P0.07). Can be powered with a single cell lipo or USB port and managed to fit in a charger for it with a charging indicator led. It has a voltage divider to measure the battery but it can be desoldered if the pin is needed for another function.
Comes with PA and LNA just like my nrf52840 test and had to follow quite abit of design recommendations from the datasheet.
Some pins are compatible with adafruit 52832 circuit design just in case if i want to use their bootloader. Like reset, DFU, 2 different leds are connected to the same pins as in their board design. Also theres a selector 0 ohm resistor between pcb and external antenna.
I will report when i receive and test it!
@NeverDie Thx for appreciating the work done. There will also be an open source part in the future. When and how extensive the open source part will be, remains to be seen. The release of certain information (block diagram, ..., in this post) is related to those open source parts.
There are some OBD solutions, however most of them (in my experience) give back low frequency data put by the car manufacturer on the OBD-bus (CAN, ...). Therefore transients evolving directly from the battery could only be recorded if the manufacturer sends those data accordingly on the bus. Due to the small bandwidth(also because of other car data that have to be sent, ...), such battery data are sent more often once per second or less. Fast battery events (i.e. cranking events, ...) are therefore imperceptible. Unless the manufacturer processes the fast events and then sends them (once per second or less), which is very unlikely if the manufacturer does not market this feature itself. Third parties devices for high frequency sensing costs several hundreds dollars.
In my experience, important battery states (especially the fast ones) are recorded by measuring and processing corresponding data directly on the battery.
I agree with you about the limits related to the communication over Bluetooth. But i think Bluetooth 5.0 will improve a lot. However, WiFi will always remain an important option due to the high data throughput. The combination of both (BLE & WiFi), especially with regard to energy consumption, will gain in importance.
I've had one of the temp sensors out for two seasons and i haven't noticed any brittle tendecies. The prinouts are covered in a few layers of sparypaint so the colors still look great (as i imagine they wouldn't if not painted). But printing in ABS is of course the safest route to take.
Thank you for the inspiration sincze! I have made my own iteration based on yours for a Brink renovent 300/400 excellent, ESP8266 and home assistant integration. I will post some snippets, mainly because the color coding was somewhat confusing as many wires have different colors than yours.
I used an RJ12 cable and splitter so that my Brink RF transmitter can stay in place and also copied your idea for the filter indicator.
The RJ12 pinout is as follows (see p. 28 in the installation guide)
Pin 1: 24V (not connected but could theoretically be used as a power supply)
Pin 2: GND
Pin 3: Position 0/sleep mode (not connected in my case
Pin 4: position 2, to enable connect to ground with relay (~13 V to ground)
Pin 5: position 3, to enable connect to ground with relay (~13V to ground)
Pin 6: Filter indicator (gives off 24V to GND when filter needs cleaning/replacement).
the Brink defaults to position 1 and that it is capable of handling two inputs simultaneously as it is made to handle multiple switches (e.g. 2 RF modules). Nevertheless I 'interlocked' both relays in ESPhome.
I'm not yet sure what's current is drawn if the filter indicator is on. Might need a heat sink for the voltage regulator.
I connected a 5V microUSB power supply to my ESP8266 in order to supply the necessary 5V to the relays.
In ESPhome I configured it as follows:
- platform: gpio
name: "position 3"
- platform: gpio
name: "position 2"
- platform: template
- switch.turn_off: relay1
- switch.turn_off: relay2
- switch.turn_off: position1
- platform: gpio
name: "Brink renovent filter indicator"
In home assistant I used this this blueprint to automatically switch the fan to position3 based on the bathroom humidity.
Some (messy) pictures are included of the device and HA lovelace view.