@mfalkvidd I am using arduino 1.8.7 on win10 and I do not see any message like you illustrated. I just tested it with the gateway sketch and it just compiles with no error or warning.

With 'nrf' in the define the text is in black, removing the 'n' at the front and it turns light blue as a recognised entity. But either way it just compilies fine. I'm not complaining, just curious now

@mfalkvidd Thank you to all for this update!

This bit confuses me - "The NRF24 defines have been renamed to RF24"
I have the following from 2.3.0 and it still compiles using 2.3.1 with the 'nrf24' in the top line #define.

#define MY_RADIO_NRF24
#define MY_RF24_PA_LEVEL   RF24_PA_HIGH
#define MY_RF24_CHANNEL (97)
#define MY_NODE_ID 43

Can you please clarify (maybe with an exmaple) about this change?

@grumpazoid I get this a lot here. In MyController I can see the data each time it is sent. It seems that you are only seeing data when a change occurs. Perhaps there is a setting somewhere? I don't use Domoticz.

I notice that my sensors nodes can just stop sending data. Sometimes it stops until I reboot the node, sometimes it just seems to not send for a period of time ranging from minutes to many hours and then starts sending again all by itself.

I have tried sending heartbeat at regular intervals and then replaced heartbeat by having the node just send its status reglardless of whether or not it has changed. Neither of these approaches have worked for me. So far I have failed to get any further than this.

If you want to detect jamming, then can I suggest a jam detection node dedicated to this task. There is more than one approach to jamming detection.

If you are using the nrf24 modules, they are capable of frequency hopping which gives resilience to jamming to a large degree, but I don't believe this function is supported by my sensors.

@tonbor Yes, the capacitor goes from the analog input to ground.

@รอเร-อ I have been using the cdebyte shielded pa/lna for months now with a 5V pro mini and all is good with the radio module. I have a 47uF ceramic smd capacitor soldered across the nrf24 power pins on the reverse side of the board. I am running it with POWER=HIGH since it is the higher powered version I don't need to set it to MAX.

What current rating is the power source you are using? Maybe the voltage is dropping when it is sending data as there is not enough current available? Just a thought.

Also, try moving the position of the nrf slightly. Just a few cm can make quite a big difference. Finding a 'sweet spot' is often the solution, that's why on many modules I put the nrf in a separate tiny box so it can be positioned in a good place for best signal.

I can confirm that from my experience this is that this is a very frustrating and time consuming path!

@mfalkvidd

Aha, then I take it all back!

I thought DanieleF was simply wanting to use a different channel and had assumed that the bootloader needed to be modified to do this (as was the case in earlier versions of my sensors).

@danielef First load the clear eeprom sketch for the gateway and nodes. This will let you start with a clean arduino.

Then simply add

#define MY_RF24_CHANNEL (97)
(Or whatever channel you want)

This MUST be Before
#include <MySensors.h>
in your sketch.

No recompiling needed.

Note that I am assuming that you are using mysensors 2.3.0, an nrf24l01+ and an arduino gateway/node.

@alexsh1 I'll bet you are using a Raspberry pi 3.

@alexsh1

Also, you don't need a 15A relay for this. I doubt it will draw more than about 8-16W it is a reccent low noise fan, or 20-30W if it is older design. Just remember that the inrush current at start will be higher, but a 3A relay should be more than enough. If you take the fan down you may well find a relay inside attached to the timer circuit, that will give you more info on what you need.

As alowhum implied, do not use an open relay in a huhmid area, the contacts will corrode. A hermetically sealed mechanical relay will do the job, but a SSR will do just as well and with no 'click' noise when it switches as a bonus.

I hope I have helped clarify how this works now, but if you have any doubt, consult a qualified electrician in your country and follow the 18th edition regulations on wiring as a minimum. Also consider if DIY work on this will void your insurance in the event of a fire caused by the modification you intend? Be safe!