There are multiple controller options available on http://www.mysensors.org. Not sure I understand what you mean by control sensor. You only need to act on the sensor output right?
@mrhutchinsonmn I'm not an expert on this code and when I get into a situation like yours, I suspect a corrupted file. So I download the MySensors code again.
Yeah it's a pain because you have it all configured. To minimize that pain, I create shell script to run the the configure program. I also keep my source files in a different directory from MySensors. When I go to compile the code, I copy the source(s) to the directory(ies) to where "make" expects it(them).
Sometimes, for me, I've bolluxed things so badly that I reimage the RPi and really start over! I try to document exactly how to start over.
I admit, it's not efficient nor elegant, but I eventually I get a configuration with which I can live. Documenting what I do is key!
Sensors output is 0-190 ohms (2 wire output). Output needs to activate 4 (empty -- -- full) red LEDs sequentially as the tank fills. What component will activate as a SW by 0, 63, 126, 190 ohms? And how to wire the four SWs from a two wire input. Source 12v. Thanks for looking
Hello this is Gulshan Negi
Well, to connect with an accelerometer, you typically need a device that can communicate with the sensor and send its data to your PC. The specific device you need to use will depend on the type of accelerometer you have and its communication protocol.
Thanks
@SMH17 said in Anyone using/tried the E28-2G4M27S 2.4Ghz LoRa SX1280 27dB module?:
@NeverDie I have noticed that in the latest version of your adapter you have lowered the capacitor value used for the first stage filtering from 100uF to 10uF, leaving the second stage one to 0.1uF. Did you have empirical benefit in tests with this configuration? 0.1uF it seems to me at first glance too small to accommodate current draw fluctuation of this module. Would be appreciated if you explain your design choice. Thank you.
The 10uF isn't for filtering. It's just to prevent voltage droop at the radio when the radio starts to pull current. So, yes, testing reveals that it seems adequate for that purpose. I originally slotted in 100uF because I wasn't sure, and overkill is better than underkill. It's possible that 10uF may also be overkill....
