For contacts like batteries I use a silicone lubricant I found at the local pool store. It is used for lubricating O-rings and fittings on pool filters and plumbing.
Its benefits are:
Very thick and stays put (for the most part)
Displaces moisture and air, reducing corrosion
Does not harden so the contacts can "move" and still retain contact.
Most of all, does not attack plastics or cause them to swell (as a petroleum based product would)
Yes, you can buy it here
Or order the PCB and do it yourself here
This does require very fine SMD soldering!
@dbemowsk Thank you for the help so far. The first time we flashed tasmota successfully I did update the drivers from the USB converters website and were able to select COM5. We have since tried pogo pins and other USB adapters. I will check everything again.
@neverdie knowing the vfd has a speed input I guess I could wire a simple arduino with a mic. Take note of the sound level and get it calibtared in no time, at the push of a button, but that project is far away, I have other things on my mind for the next few months.
hmm.. interesting, that they chose that FET.. According to datasheets then the MSP runs at max 3V6 (I guess they use 3V3 here, the chip marked 8A637 is probably a LDO).
The chosen FET is performing best as a switch with Vgs above 4.5, 4.5V RdsON is 12mOhm, but it will raise quickly as the Vgs voltage is lowered below this threshold.
@gohan said in
how the power supply will handle the voltage spike
Not a problem - a good surge protection can handle it. I have all my electronic devices including router powered through the surge protected extension lead
I used a Pro Mini as slave over SoftwareSerial for a project. Maybe you could use that for inspiration and reuse some code. https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3438/physical-mood-light-color-and-brightness-selector-based-on-lcd-touchscreen-with-demo-video/
@nca78 said in Fewer home automation postings? What's behind it?:
The only problem I see is it's based on an atmega setup which will probably soon be deprecated for MySensors.
Yes that is an issue. For now I'm trying to keep the sketches so simple that the simple signing and encryption feature will still work. I read that in MySensors 2.3 a goal was to make the encryption and signing features use less ram, so there might still be some life left in the Nano
I also found an STM32 board that has a NRF socket built in. But that has to be manually soldered, and it also make sensors less easy to connect (fewer GND and VCC pins).
I used tme.eu when I was in a hurry to get some RFM69s. Their transport costs 7,90€/75SEK but it's UPS/DHL (the package arrives to door in few days).
I also used one local small company, who has Arduino stuff (from ebay or Ali) and delivers it with small profit. It's a bit more expensive but also a lot faster and no surprise costs.
Finnish Posti did not proceed with similar extra costs, maybe they try to develop automatic systems to work with China packets, so ebay is usable here - untill future VAT and customs rules at least
@freynder said in STM32?:
@freynder said in STM32?:
stm32 sensor is unable to connect to gateway:
After further testing, this seems to work now. I'm not exactly sure why unfortunately. I'm now using the new RFM69 library. I noticed that communication seems to fail after uploading the sketch over stlink, even when clicking the reset button. When disconnecting/reconnecting the usb power all works well. Maybe that was the issue previously as well.
Just following up on this as I finally found out why this is happening. I was using encryption and using serial upload (using stm32flash), the simulated eeprom would get overwritten by the flash erase. Not sure if this happens for dfu or stlink as well. Uploading using the black magic probe (which uses dbg) does not have this problem. I hope this may help someone struggling with the same issue.
Edit: not sure about dfu or stlink.
@neverdie said in Anyone tried the Creality CR-10 3D printer?:
Are any of the available printer filaments odor free? The free roll of Prusa PLA that came with my kit doesn't smell very good when printing with it.
I just now ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MB3CV6K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
which claims to be "odor free." Well, here's hoping it is.
I tried it, and indeed it seems to have no odor. Hopefully (?) it's also not giving off any emissions that I can't smell either.
@johnrob said in Air quality node:
@nca78 said in Air quality node:
I just purchased a BME680 from "alice1101983" on ebay for $16.85. I figure by the time I receive it I may be ready to start in on a VOC project again.
BTW the only reason I mentioned alice1101983 is that I've purchased a number of these types of break out boards from this supplier and all the item i received were what I expected and shipped within a reasonable time.
BTW I do believe all (most) of the breakout boards are mfg by 1 or 2 factories and the folks we see on ebay are small time sellers.
Yes there are not so many factories that why most of the shops have similar prices and exactly the same boards.
I bought a BME680 from Arrow, without breakout board. I still have to make a PCB for it, but I need to finish my tests with PM sensors before I make one.
@alexsh1 signing fits fine on atmega328p. Just comment out any calls to your libraries and the linker will garbage collect any code drawn in by them. Once you confirm your security is operational, disable the debug prints alltogether and add your library calls.
Of course, if you have space issues even then, there is not much to do but optimize the code.
@bladeback This has been asked before several times, for further investigation you might look for "node to node communication".
As a starting point, you may use the following thread starting with this posting: https://forum.mysensors.org/post/84724