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Another Automatic Kettle Project

Newzwaver last edited by

Hi All,

I am using the Pete B. Push button concept to turn my kettle on and start boiling and need a little help. When I press the button it will not send the code to turn the kettle on. I used the same wire diagram as Petes ground sample. It is a ground and a simple touch button as I can touch the wires tomorrow to simulate a button and confirmed it’s ground. Has anyone complete code for this and if so can I use it?
Thanks
Tim
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@NotYetRated Hope you'll find good uses and a fun time while building your sensors.
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@OldSurferDude yes, you are correct. this sensor is capable of 50A continuous, which safely I would make it working at 40A max., but for such an important load as in your case I would go for a beefier one, like the ACS75x, 77x, but at this point I would also change the node's form factor for space and insulation reasons. On my application on the RV I have a max. curr. of 13A running on a AWG14-16 cable (European rules for RVs), so I did not ask myself too many questions beside, of course, safety. About the signal, it will be a sinusoidal signal swinging around Vcc/2. Vcc can be easily measured internally on the ATmega328. On all my DC sensors I measure Vcc at every loop, just before measuring the ADCs. Honestly, when the space is not an issue like in my RV, I would rather use a ring core current transformer, and I would get rid of noise, response time, power dissipation, but over all no need to cut any cable. Long story short, it has been a nice experiment and I used it for 6 months, and then I switched back to my RF-NANO based RS485-Modbus - Mysensors bridge connected to an off-the shelf power analyzer. Just for fun I attach a pic of my 12Vdc sensors installed on my RV. Forgive me for the spaghetti wiring on the right side, but this is an area that needs improvement.
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Hello everyone, Firstly, I apologize for reviving such an old thread, but I find myself in a unique situation and was hoping some of you might be able to help. I hope everyone's doing well. I have a specific inquiry that I couldn't find a recent solution for. Does anyone here know of a tool to generate "fake" Dooya remote (DC90) RF codes for curtains? I've acquired a few motors without controllers and am trying to integrate them with Home Assistant and Bradlink RF remote. Specifically, I'm searching for a way to generate codes for the Up, Down, Stop, and the "Set" button functions to configure curtain limits. Any insights or guidance would be immensely appreciated. Thank you so much in advance!
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@Kokosnoot good solution. I remember the discussion in the early days of MySensors. I've powered the radio's for most of my sensors from the 3.3v regulator on the arduino board and for me that works perfect. But for my latest designs I decided to add a separate ams regulator for my radio's like the guys suggested in the beginning. Because you basically want the on board regulator to power the mcu only.

Another Automatic Kettle Project

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Another Automatic Kettle Project

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