My Project

Added some 3d sketches so you can see what I'm trying to accomplish. Unless ofc someone will tell me this is a bad idea

@OldSurferDude So if I get my circuit to work, that would by 22 times less (on average). Well I'm doing too many things at the same time. :)

You don't check for which sensor the message is send - message.getSensor() - and in both cases you set the relays both on Like Skywatch said. So you could do something like: if ( message.type == V_STATUS ) { // check if GW send a status change if ( message.getSensor() == sensor 1 ) { // handles sensor 1 } else if ( message.getSensor() == sensor 2 ) { // handles sensor 1 } ... etc }

Thank you so much for your support

I think the comments you make are good. I do have a question about the removing the regulator. I assume you mean the 5V to 3.3V regulator. I connect to the 5V and I see lot of variation in moisture readings due to the variation in the output of the power supply (solar panel/stepdown). I have a calibration routine for that. The voltage can go as high as 4.2V, which I believe may be bad if I connect the power supply to 3.3V. Of course, this is not a concern if using two 1.5V batteries. With batteries, the moisture reading would be more consistent over a day. Lot of advantages there. I just don't like changing batteries and I really hate it when they leak. I have every reason to believe that my power supply will last 10 years and I am fortunate to live in a place with consistent sunshine :) . Someone replicating my project will have to take this into consideration. My design easily accommodates a different power supply. And my power supply could be used in other projects. Resistive vs Capacitive sensor. I'm glad you report good results. This gives people options. Water moisture: I've had good experience with "spraying" the Arduino with clear electronic coating and sealing the enclosure with liquid tape. -OSD

@nagelc said in New Setup for Home Environment Monitoring – Using NRF24L01+, Arduino Pro Mini, and BME280: bme280 I read somewhere that the temperature sensor on the BME280 is sort of an afterthought. I did a few experiments comparing them to the DHT11/12/22 and found them only a little better. (Take this with a grain of salt, maybe you'll want to do you're own experiments.) I did do a lot of experiments with the DHT's and they really suck. +/-2°C Which turns out to mean +/-2°C offset (component variation) and +/-2°C measurement: +/-4°C from what the temperature actually is. My experience, yours may be better. Please post your experience with OTA. I haven't tried it on Arduino's but it's awesome on ESP8266. I hesitate with Arduino's because I had some erratic behaviour running Arduino's when pushing the memory limit. I, too, use the MQTT data transport to Home Assistant (HA) and I find that excellent. Getting data from HA is a bit tricky, but do-able. I have a flow meter and use HA to store the last read; meaning, if there is a power failure, HA sends the last read on Arduino boot. I don't use the EEPROM because that has a spec of 100,000 writes which the meter would do in about a year, thus, necessitating a new Arduino. I truly appreciate you sharing. Thanks! -OSD

@OldSurferDude I use this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-Solenoid-for-Battery-Operated-Timer-57861/203151515 Instead of having to hold the valve open, i can just pulse it. I use a simple motor controller to pulse it and when i need to close it, pulse it in "reverse". That way I could use a battery and if it only opens once or twice a day it's only a half a second or so of draw off the battery.

That is a well documented project. Much appreciated

@fsgraz Did some testing Today and my RFM range is over 80 meters node to node, with no long range antenna. That will be my next test, just waiting for a shipment from China to arrive. I did how ever notice an extreme improvement when I connected the gateway through a USB hub and then started to dig through the forum. @AWI once wrote about using an external PSU to power the long range NRF PA/LAN. I'll try that this weekend as connecting it to they USB port of my PI extended the range to 20 meters Node to Node.

@Paul-Scarbro There are multitude of solution, but since we are in MySensors Land, let's do a MySensors solution. You'll quickly see that doing that adds a lot of overhead. We'll use an Arduino Nano or RF Nano if you're going to go whole hog. It can be run from 3.3V or 5V DC, not AC. The reed switch would be connected to an input of the Nano and one of the outputs would drive a relay. The relay would drive the chime. Your C++ program would be something like: #define inputButton 2; // connect reed switch here #define outputRelay 4; // connect relay to this pin see MySensors Relay example #define RELAY_ON 1 // GPIO value to write to turn on attached relay #define RELAY_OFF 0 // GPIO value to write to turn off attached relay void setup() { pinmode(inputButton,INPUT); pinmode(outputRelay,OUTPUT); // put your setup code here, to run once: } void loop() { // put your main code here, to run repeatedly: if (digitalRead(inputButton) == 0) { digitalWrite(outputRelay,RELAY_ON); wait(2000); // wait 2 seconds digitalWrite(outputRelay,RELAY_OFF); // now wait for door to close while(digitalRead(inputButton) == 0) ; //does nothing until reed switch opens } } There are some subtleties that I may have glossed over, but this is the gist. By looking at the MySensors Relay example, you'll see how to integrate this into a MySensors environment. That's where you'd want to get the RF Nano. I've made the assumption you're familiar with the Arduino IDE and you've looked into the MySensors environment.

@OldSurferDude yeah, 10 virgin nodes powered up at the same time is a bad idea I seem to remember reading somwewhere here warning aginst that. If yu have node ID trust issues with Mysensors you should move your address to different locaion as 0x00 is used by Mysensors... just sayin..;)

Quick Range Check on the WIO-E5-LE. The LE version uses only the low power PA, +14dBm max. Using the default settings except for 915MHz #define MY_SX126x_FREQUENCY (SX126x_915MHZ) #define MY_SX126x_LORA_SF LORA_SF7 #define MY_SX126x_LORA_BW LORA_BW_125 #define MY_SX126x_LORA_CR LORA_CR_4_5 I get about 190 meter range, just walking around the neighborhood, line of site except for some trees and power lines. No tuning on the antenna. Just using a 77.9mm wire. Not as dramatic as some have achieved with LoRa radio's, but plenty good enough for my house and yard : )

Hallo! Ich habe gerade meinen Aduino Nano mit einem GY-BME/P-280 verbunden über SPI verbunden. Im Sketch habe ich nur die PINS geändert und zwar auf: #define BMP_SCK 13 #define BMP_MISO 12 #define BMP_MOSI 11 #define BMP_CS 10 Ich bekomme aber bei der Ausgabe am seriellen Monitor nur "Hyroglyphen" zB 5��,�lh����}����'�O8��m�h,� Mit einem anderen Sketch funktioniert der Sensor einwandfrei. Auch mit einem anderen Nano dasselbe Ergebnis. Hat jemand eine Idee was das Problem sein könnte? Zusatzfrage da ich in C++ nicht so firm bin: Könnte es sein, dass MY_DEBUG oder MY_RADIO_NRF24 das problem verursacht. Was machen diese Definitionen eigentlich? Grüße

Wow @Nicklas-Starkel congrats, that sounds great! And thanks for the feedback. Would you mind sharing your setup? Regards, Edi

@OldSurferDude yes, you are correct. this sensor is capable of 50A continuous, which safely I would make it working at 40A max., but for such an important load as in your case I would go for a beefier one, like the ACS75x, 77x, but at this point I would also change the node's form factor for space and insulation reasons. On my application on the RV I have a max. curr. of 13A running on a AWG14-16 cable (European rules for RVs), so I did not ask myself too many questions beside, of course, safety. About the signal, it will be a sinusoidal signal swinging around Vcc/2. Vcc can be easily measured internally on the ATmega328. On all my DC sensors I measure Vcc at every loop, just before measuring the ADCs. Honestly, when the space is not an issue like in my RV, I would rather use a ring core current transformer, and I would get rid of noise, response time, power dissipation, but over all no need to cut any cable. Long story short, it has been a nice experiment and I used it for 6 months, and then I switched back to my RF-NANO based RS485-Modbus - Mysensors bridge connected to an off-the shelf power analyzer. Just for fun I attach a pic of my 12Vdc sensors installed on my RV. Forgive me for the spaghetti wiring on the right side, but this is an area that needs improvement. [image: 1723442333591-img_20231008_120026-resized.jpg]

@OldSurferDude thank you !