@barduino Last night I created another decora plate that has 2 bigger switches. I will probably be pushing that one up to my thingiverse account tonight. I have to make the board for it yet, but I think this one will be a bit easier since I only have 4 switches and 2 LEDs to deal with instead of 8 and 4 with the other one.
I also have a project I did with my easy newbie boards where I made an enclosure for my bathroom temp/humidity sensor. Here is the link: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6485/hdc1080-battery-operated-temp-humidity-sensor-with-wall-box
You mentioned that you couldn't create a support that wouldn't break. If you look at the temp/humidity enclosure I just have 4 mounting tabs inside the box. I am using 2mm x 5mm screws to secure it. These are the screws I bought to use on my decora switches. They work great. the tabs are big enough where there is no real chance that they would break. I could possibly get some longer screws because if I screw these in and take them out too much the hole kind of gets stripped. That shouldn't be much of a problem now that I have the enclosure perfected, I shouldn't have a need to remove screws much.
Just an update on this. I gave the wall switch another spin on the design. I made a version of this with nice rocker switches. I think this design looks a bit more professional.
Because of having the rocker switches I have added one more piece to the design which is a rocker support for the switches to prevent both the on and off buttons for a switch to be activated simultaneously.
Here is a view of the prototype with the rocker support in place.
The LEDs that I currently have installed are 3mm white LEDs. I went with 10k resistors on them so as not to make them too bright since at full brightness these can be a bit blinding. I chose those because they are what I had available in my parts bin. Red or green LEDs might be a better fit for this. Choose a resistor value that gives whatever LEDs you choose suitable brightness as this can vary between LEDs.
Yep, both were 3D printed back then. The Toronto library actually has 3D printers so I built a CAD model and had it printed there. There are also have a lot of web-based companies who will print and ship out parts.
Since then I've built my own 3D printer, it comes in handy and they're getting pretty cheap.
Hi, all this is awesome, about the same what I would like to make as I'm heating the house with wood boiler (actually wood gasification boiler to be correct), and accumulation tank. Still working on hot water boiler, but that's not far.
For now, I got working Individually DS18b20 node (still with automatic addressing) and one node that reads the temperature in my boilers second burning chamber with a k-type thermocouple but still struggling to get them bout working with one node.
It would be very helpful for some guidance or example for this.
So my goal is to get 2x thermocouples (additional for smoke temperatures) and some 18b20s in one node + some standard stuff what I am not still sure about.
But for now big thanks to mysensors team and community for this.
I am not sure if customizing too much that protocol is going to be a successful way. I'm concerned that if you can't get a team of developers working on it and maintain it in the future, people aren't going to use it because the risk of don't having any kind of support will discourage them
@Nca78 I have a probably very stupid question. Why is it every time I'm trying to solder my arduino in parallel to the pins A0-A2 everything basically stops working - the lights would go on, but not off, dimmer would stop working either or the lights would just start flickering like crazy. What am I missing here? Is that somehow related to pull-up/down resistors? I tried both modes on arduino, INPUT to just listen what's going on when I'm touching the button and OUTPUT to actually control stuff, but both gave me the same results - nothing
Sorry I forgot to reply to your question...
I ordered a dimmer and checked it, it has another PIC on the "main" board so I think it's not that easy to control, I suppose the PIC on the "main" board manages PWM, and it receives instructions from the PIC on the "sensor" board, we need to know how they communicate.