My Project

@OldSurferDude :D that's the smell of experience ! Even though things come eventually to an end (with great sadness i'm afraid) this had to be addressed. What kind of flow do you measure then ?

Stainless steel probes are a solid choice for durability. If you're thinking about power efficiency, integrating a sleep mode could really stretch out battery life.

Hi, The sensor has a lux setting you can adjust to block triggering during daylight, but I just add an "after sunset" condition to my automation script to prevent daylight triggering. [image: 1778010220665-pir-settings.png] On AliExpress: PIR no base PIR with base

Around 30–50 N·cm holding torque is typically sufficient for most focusers, and a standard NEMA 17 with microstepping (e.g., 1/16 or higher) usually provides enough resolution without needing a gearbox, though 0.9° motors offer slightly finer native precision than 1.8°. To reduce vibration and resonance, use lower current, acceleration ramps, and a flexible coupler, and for long sessions set the current just high enough to avoid missed steps while lowering holding current to manage heat.

With debug on I can conform it works just fine. So far I can see all sensors reporting and all actuators respond without any problems. Accept for one, but that radio is in a cage of Faraday and I knew it would need a repeater close by. Next step making the shield for the rfm69, so that I have one form factor for my Gateways and Repeater(s). But it has to wait until after Eastern. as it's the same for adding an extra decoupler capacitor.

Awesome project!

@OldSurferDude as long as we’re using nRFs this project is still relevant :D Great little tool to check for efficiency of modules I can even « aim » a pcb antenna to get the best result !

Thanks @Sasquatch. I did some testing also. The values below seem to be the correct ones. I had similar -100 RSSI at all power settings when using the opposite settings. When I use these, I got reasonable RSSI's that changed approximately linearly with the power setting. I got at least 500m range with an E5-LE in a quick test. That's a 5x improvement and there were many obstacles and buildings in the path. I look forward to trying it somewhere where I have more line of sight. I made an update to my code on github. {STM32WLx::MODE_TX_LP, {HIGH, HIGH}}, // For the E5-LE {STM32WLx::MODE_TX_HP, {LOW, HIGH}}, // For the regular E5

Hey everyone, I’ve been messing around with these sound sensors lately too. The biggest headache I’ve found isn’t the wiring, but actually calibrating the 'sensitivity' screw so it doesn't just trigger on every little background hum. If you're trying to figure out if your sensor is actually picking up the right ambient levels, I found this web tool https://noisemeter.co/ pretty handy. It’s easier than lugging a dedicated SPL meter around just to see if your room's baseline noise matches what the Arduino is reporting. Curious to see if anyone has managed to get a reliable 'glass break' or 'clapper' trigger out of these without a ton of false positives!

@OldSurferDude So if I get my circuit to work, that would by 22 times less (on average). Well I'm doing too many things at the same time. :)

You don't check for which sensor the message is send - message.getSensor() - and in both cases you set the relays both on Like Skywatch said. So you could do something like: if ( message.type == V_STATUS ) { // check if GW send a status change if ( message.getSensor() == sensor 1 ) { // handles sensor 1 } else if ( message.getSensor() == sensor 2 ) { // handles sensor 1 } ... etc }

Thank you so much for your support

@nagelc said in New Setup for Home Environment Monitoring – Using NRF24L01+, Arduino Pro Mini, and BME280: bme280 I read somewhere that the temperature sensor on the BME280 is sort of an afterthought. I did a few experiments comparing them to the DHT11/12/22 and found them only a little better. (Take this with a grain of salt, maybe you'll want to do you're own experiments.) I did do a lot of experiments with the DHT's and they really suck. +/-2°C Which turns out to mean +/-2°C offset (component variation) and +/-2°C measurement: +/-4°C from what the temperature actually is. My experience, yours may be better. Please post your experience with OTA. I haven't tried it on Arduino's but it's awesome on ESP8266. I hesitate with Arduino's because I had some erratic behaviour running Arduino's when pushing the memory limit. I, too, use the MQTT data transport to Home Assistant (HA) and I find that excellent. Getting data from HA is a bit tricky, but do-able. I have a flow meter and use HA to store the last read; meaning, if there is a power failure, HA sends the last read on Arduino boot. I don't use the EEPROM because that has a spec of 100,000 writes which the meter would do in about a year, thus, necessitating a new Arduino. I truly appreciate you sharing. Thanks! -OSD

@OldSurferDude I use this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-Solenoid-for-Battery-Operated-Timer-57861/203151515 Instead of having to hold the valve open, i can just pulse it. I use a simple motor controller to pulse it and when i need to close it, pulse it in "reverse". That way I could use a battery and if it only opens once or twice a day it's only a half a second or so of draw off the battery.

That is a well documented project. Much appreciated

@fsgraz Did some testing Today and my RFM range is over 80 meters node to node, with no long range antenna. That will be my next test, just waiting for a shipment from China to arrive. I did how ever notice an extreme improvement when I connected the gateway through a USB hub and then started to dig through the forum. @AWI once wrote about using an external PSU to power the long range NRF PA/LAN. I'll try that this weekend as connecting it to they USB port of my PI extended the range to 20 meters Node to Node.