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  3. 110v-230v AC to Mysensors PCB board

110v-230v AC to Mysensors PCB board

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  • bjornhallbergB Offline
    bjornhallbergB Offline
    bjornhallberg
    Hero Member
    wrote on last edited by
    #130

    Just a quick post to confirm I got the relays working as well (with Domoticz). I didn't read the schematic at first and just assumed how the mains and relay external wiring should be done. Still no idea about the smoking varistor.

    S 1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • bjornhallbergB bjornhallberg

      Just a quick post to confirm I got the relays working as well (with Domoticz). I didn't read the schematic at first and just assumed how the mains and relay external wiring should be done. Still no idea about the smoking varistor.

      S Offline
      S Offline
      shabba
      wrote on last edited by
      #131

      I thought all my relays were shot as I was not getting continuity on the load pins when I applied 5V. I checked resistance and there is just over 2K when 5V applied and infinite when none. I am going to put back together assuming the 240V A/C will pass through just fine.

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      • S Offline
        S Offline
        shabba
        wrote on last edited by
        #132

        What would cause no power to VCC when connected to mains (even though there is 5V at end of HLK-PM01) - if I bring that 5V with a jumper to VCC it works. Also works fine when connected to the serial port - Bad DC varistor?

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        • korttomaK Offline
          korttomaK Offline
          korttoma
          Hero Member
          wrote on last edited by korttoma
          #133

          @shabba

          The only thing between the HLK-PM01 and VCC is Fuse2. Check the Schematic. But yes a shorted varistor will in the combination with the fuse bring VCC to 0V. I experienced this also since the 5.5V varistors I bought from the link in the documentation (Ali seller Unionup Electronic Mall) did not work.

          Seems like there is quite many of us that are having problems with the 5.5V varistors. I measured a few from my batch and they all show 0.4ohm with a multimeter, should they not have something like infinite resistance unless they get more then the 5.5V? My multimeter gives 0.6V when it measures resistance.

          • Tomas
          RJ_MakeR 1 Reply Last reply
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          • korttomaK korttoma

            @shabba

            The only thing between the HLK-PM01 and VCC is Fuse2. Check the Schematic. But yes a shorted varistor will in the combination with the fuse bring VCC to 0V. I experienced this also since the 5.5V varistors I bought from the link in the documentation (Ali seller Unionup Electronic Mall) did not work.

            Seems like there is quite many of us that are having problems with the 5.5V varistors. I measured a few from my batch and they all show 0.4ohm with a multimeter, should they not have something like infinite resistance unless they get more then the 5.5V? My multimeter gives 0.6V when it measures resistance.

            RJ_MakeR Offline
            RJ_MakeR Offline
            RJ_Make
            Hero Member
            wrote on last edited by
            #134

            @korttoma Say what...? You measure .4 ohms on your Varistor? I think you found your problem. :angry:

            I have only ever used Varistor protection on the primary side, so I've got no experience with low voltage Varistors, but I don't think it should ever read .4.. Should be infinite.

            RJ_Make

            korttomaK 1 Reply Last reply
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            • BSoftB Offline
              BSoftB Offline
              BSoft
              wrote on last edited by BSoft
              #135

              Hello everyone,

              Since we probably wanting this for multiple destinations, what if we used a centralized way at our home powerswitch.

              We could stack multiple boards, and just use one arduino nano and one nRF on top of it. We just have to care about link each stack to a different arduino output.

              Based in this idea we could create a second pcb for stack mounting, this board will just have the SSR and a deep switch for easy selectable arduino output. To make this ok we should connect each home powerswitch to each stack, another way exist if we use the main supply of the bottom board for all stacks, and place our circuit before our home power switch, but this is not recommendable.

              For minimum stack size SSR should be horizontal mounted.

              The advantages are obvious, just one arduino and nRF, one ac-dc and regulator for all home switches. Super low volume occupied and no more size constraints inside wall switches.

              I don't have time to go forward and design this, so if someone wants it please go for it!! :smiley:

              PS - Since we just use one arduino output per stack, we could avoid deep switch cost and configure by soldering selected track.

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              • sundberg84S Offline
                sundberg84S Offline
                sundberg84
                Hardware Contributor
                wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                #136

                @BSoft I had this idea also and have been working on a pcb for some weeks now.
                Its a 5x5 cm PCB you cut in halv so you get a 2 pcs which are 2.5x5cm - and they are stackable (like a shield).

                1.JPG

                This is how i plan to stack them: (Blue inwall socket behind).
                2.JPG

                On the bottom you have the high power and HK 240->5v converter.
                Then in the middle between the pcbs you have the radio and arduino and on top whatever you wants.
                I have made outputs for LCD screen, buttons and/or motion.

                There are still much work in progress here but so far this is my thoughts... and it fits inside the typical wall hole.
                This will not be ready for atleast some week, and the three weeks or so with order/deliver time.

                I will create my own post to get input on this when im done and If someone else knows and want to improve the design i can send over the files.

                Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

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                • BSoftB Offline
                  BSoftB Offline
                  BSoft
                  wrote on last edited by BSoft
                  #137

                  @sundberg84 Nice work with that sandwich!! :stuck_out_tongue:
                  Maybe you could move nrf24 to the other board to get away from ac-dc field and obtain better signal exposure.

                  My idea is to move this node to my home powerswitch and control all my home lights, but as size isn't a problem maybe i'll use this:
                  http://www.dx.com/p/8-channel-5v-solid-state-relay-module-blue-black-green-250v-2a-213880

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                  • A aproxx

                    @mvdarend Thanks for the feedback! Happy to hear that it's working fine on your side as well. Although I do find it strange that the LE33 seems to be the other way around on your board? Maybe I just made a mistake with the silkscreen, and should the LE33 be on the bottom side? Anyway, I'll make sure to address this as soon as I possible (probably somewhere during next week). Sorry for the possible inconvenience, but thanks for pointing this out! :)

                    @sundberg84 The board dimension are about 4.2x4.7cm, so it is quite small. However, I'm afraid that because of the NRF24L01 module, and the 230v connections to it, it wouldn't really fit the box you have on that picture (assuming the board you have there is 5x5cm)..

                    Somewhere in the next week or 2 I'll try to design a custom 3d printable plastic box for the board that I've designed. Together with a 2-relay board as requested by @jemish .

                    Z Offline
                    Z Offline
                    zebmina
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #138

                    @aproxx I'm a complete newbie but am interested in exploring this! Do you have a tutorial on the steps to populate this circuit board? I am comfortable with soldering but new to electronic circuits. Is there a particular order in which components ought to be soldered? Would you recommend breadboarding to begin with? Any sample code that can be used to do a sanity test?

                    Your guidance is greatly appreciated!

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                    • A aproxx

                      For those who wanted to see some pictures of the board:
                      IMG_20150921_194059 (Small).jpg IMG_20150921_194039 (Small).jpg IMG_20150921_194035 (Small).jpg IMG_20150921_194023 (Small).jpg IMG_20150921_192748 (Small).jpg IMG_20150921_192737 (Small).jpg IMG_20150921_192728 (Small).jpg

                      Small notice: These pictures are of a slightly older design. The newer design has a few minor changes like better component placement and a permanent fuse instead of this resettable fuse. But these pictures should at least give you an idea on how everything looks like, and shows how really small it actually is.
                      Also, I reinforced the traces of the 230v lines, which I absolutely recommend to do! (Although I do recommend to do it slightly more professional than I did on this prototype :))

                      Z Offline
                      Z Offline
                      zebmina
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #139

                      @aproxx Very nice! Just ordered.... But quite nervous - don't know much about electronic circuits, although I am quite good at following detailed instructions. You wouldn't happen to have a tutorial on how to populate the pcb?

                      1 Reply Last reply
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                      • A aproxx

                        Hi all,

                        **UPDATE April 17 2016 **
                        The latest version of this board is available HERE.

                        After spending a few months on this forum and a few prototypes later, I decided I wanted to build a small but cheap PCB which could be placed in either the wall behind the light switch, or above the lamp.

                        Besides the boards I've seen on this forum, I wanted these boards to contain a module to go from 230v AC to 5/3.3v DC in order to power an Arduino nano and the NRF module. I eventually ended up with a PCB which is about 4 by 4.5cm. So with all components attached I'm hoping to get in stuffed in a 5x5x3cm plastic printed case.

                        Modules which I've used to power the board:
                        [http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-pcs-HLK-PM01-AC-DC-220V-to-5V-Step-Down-Power-Supply-Module-Intelligent-Household/32319202093.html?spm=2114.32010308.4.19.8oKfZg

                        UPDATE: 2015/09/18
                        As promised, I've got an update for this project. The board has been tested in the past week, and everything is working as expected. Compared to the previous board I've posted, I have updated the following:
                        • Solder pads of LE33CZ have been placed a little wider apart to avoid short circuit while soldering.
                        • Solder pads of the resettable fuse (Fuse2) has been placed closer together to better fit the fuses of the BOM.
                        • Moved the NRF24L01 connector a bit away from the solid state relay. Should make it easier to solder.
                        • Moved Fuse2 to another location on the board, away from the 230v circuit.

                        Some 3D pictures (Top and bottom):
                        Top.png
                        Bottom.png

                        Anyone who is interested can order the PCB HERE

                        Some documentation, complete list of required components and all gerber / DipTrace files (in case you would like to make some modifications) can be found here: MySensors board v3.2.3.zip.

                        Z Offline
                        Z Offline
                        zebmina
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #140

                        OK, this may be a really dumb question, but I need to ask, so please pardon my ignorance....

                        Clearly one main advantage of this is to control traditional light switches programatically and also through the standard light switch. How would I know whether someone flipped the light switch to turn on/off? How does the program "state" keep in sync with the "state" of the physical light switch?

                        Sorry again about what might be a rather dumb question.

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • sundberg84S Offline
                          sundberg84S Offline
                          sundberg84
                          Hardware Contributor
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #141

                          You could connect the regular switch like a binary button, for example between D3 and Grd. The node could monitor both incoming messages from the controller and the state on D3.

                          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • n3roN Offline
                            n3roN Offline
                            n3ro
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #142

                            i hope i can buy this board in the near future =)

                            pimatic + MySensors + Homeduino + z-way
                            https://github.com/n3roGit/MySensors_n3ro

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • zrom69Z Offline
                              zrom69Z Offline
                              zrom69
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #143

                              Hello
                              I'm putting a home automation system I want to put in the cabinet
                              electric power supply to power pc wholes my Arduino pro mini cable this method and these can be well card she could withstand power pc. thank you in advance for aid

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • RJ_MakeR RJ_Make

                                @korttoma Say what...? You measure .4 ohms on your Varistor? I think you found your problem. :angry:

                                I have only ever used Varistor protection on the primary side, so I've got no experience with low voltage Varistors, but I don't think it should ever read .4.. Should be infinite.

                                korttomaK Offline
                                korttomaK Offline
                                korttoma
                                Hero Member
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #144

                                @ServiceXp said:

                                @korttoma Say what...? You measure .4 ohms on your Varistor? I think you found your problem. :angry:

                                I have only ever used Varistor protection on the primary side, so I've got no experience with low voltage Varistors, but I don't think it should ever read .4.. Should be infinite.

                                I how received a new batch from another seller and these varistors show infinite resistance, unfortunately they are 0603 footprint so they are really tiny.

                                I bet the other seller (Unionup Electronic Mall) just sent me random crap because all of them show 0 resistance at first and then increase to 0.4 ohms, to bad it is too late to open dispute now. Just stay clear of Unionup Electronic Mall in the future.

                                • Tomas
                                RJ_MakeR 1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • Cliff KarlssonC Offline
                                  Cliff KarlssonC Offline
                                  Cliff Karlsson
                                  wrote on last edited by Cliff Karlsson
                                  #145

                                  is it the brown or blue varistors that is defective?

                                  Edit: sorry the brown ones are fuses

                                  korttomaK 1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • Cliff KarlssonC Cliff Karlsson

                                    is it the brown or blue varistors that is defective?

                                    Edit: sorry the brown ones are fuses

                                    korttomaK Offline
                                    korttomaK Offline
                                    korttoma
                                    Hero Member
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #146

                                    @Cliff-Karlsson the 5.5V SMD varistors I recieved from Aliexpress seller "Unionup Electronic Mall" do not work for me. Now running my circuit with out it instead.

                                    • Tomas
                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • korttomaK korttoma

                                      @ServiceXp said:

                                      @korttoma Say what...? You measure .4 ohms on your Varistor? I think you found your problem. :angry:

                                      I have only ever used Varistor protection on the primary side, so I've got no experience with low voltage Varistors, but I don't think it should ever read .4.. Should be infinite.

                                      I how received a new batch from another seller and these varistors show infinite resistance, unfortunately they are 0603 footprint so they are really tiny.

                                      I bet the other seller (Unionup Electronic Mall) just sent me random crap because all of them show 0 resistance at first and then increase to 0.4 ohms, to bad it is too late to open dispute now. Just stay clear of Unionup Electronic Mall in the future.

                                      RJ_MakeR Offline
                                      RJ_MakeR Offline
                                      RJ_Make
                                      Hero Member
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #147

                                      @korttoma Thanks for the heads up on Unionup.

                                      RJ_Make

                                      1 Reply Last reply
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                                      • Cliff KarlssonC Offline
                                        Cliff KarlssonC Offline
                                        Cliff Karlsson
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #148

                                        I don't have any ceramic capacitors. Can I replace them with regualr ones?

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                                        • Cliff KarlssonC Offline
                                          Cliff KarlssonC Offline
                                          Cliff Karlsson
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #149

                                          Nevermind the capacitor question I found some ceramic capacitors now. But Is the "BOM" that shows component placement in the beginning of the thread accurate? only the transistor needs to be turned around?

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