In wall light switch node - Custom PCB
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For more than two switches see: http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11091
I would add a hardware debouncing (R/C) to avoid the problems mentioned in the article. -
For more than two switches see: http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11091
I would add a hardware debouncing (R/C) to avoid the problems mentioned in the article.@Xander said:
For more than two switches see: http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11091
I would add a hardware debouncing (R/C) to avoid the problems mentioned in the article.It's very good trick, but this circuit allows use of only tact switches. If you are interested - check my schematic (https://www.openhardware.io/view/102/Wall-Switch-Insertable-Node). It allows use of on\off switches too. I've drawn it after a little brainstorm :) I'm not sure it is optimal, but it works very nice.
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@Xander said:
For more than two switches see: http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11091
I would add a hardware debouncing (R/C) to avoid the problems mentioned in the article.It's very good trick, but this circuit allows use of only tact switches. If you are interested - check my schematic (https://www.openhardware.io/view/102/Wall-Switch-Insertable-Node). It allows use of on\off switches too. I've drawn it after a little brainstorm :) I'm not sure it is optimal, but it works very nice.
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@Koresh, thank you for linking me your module, i'm finally getting around to looking into some depth in this. First of all, i would like to ask something regarding the Exclusive-OR Gates;
I know how the gates work, in this case it uses Exclusive-OR (XOR) Gates, in simple terms, if the inputs are different the output will be HIGH, if the inputs are the same it will be LOW. The input you have connected to GND, could you tell me why that has to be connected to VCC with a resistor, could you not just connect that to GND?
I really like your use of the Schmitt Triggers here, makes the signal nice and sharp on the falling edges for the logic gates to work with.
Thanks!
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We're currently working on locating the issue that we have with the light switch not being synced with OpenHab correctly. It works as intended but you have to double click to get the light on. We have located the issue lying within OpenHab's item configuration issues. Will post the resulting configuration needed to get this node working 100% perfectly.
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Hi Samuel,
thanks for your great work.
I'm currently starting with my first steps in Home Automation.
I'm trying to control our lights in our flat. Our light switches are push switches with 12V. (dont know the right Translation to English. In German its called "Taster" - with no ON/OFF state, just a Push)Is this board useable for my switches? So can i connect the 12V to your board somehow and send the 12V "press button" to the main Fuse Box?
Thank you,
Arthur.
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Hi Samuel,
thanks for your great work.
I'm currently starting with my first steps in Home Automation.
I'm trying to control our lights in our flat. Our light switches are push switches with 12V. (dont know the right Translation to English. In German its called "Taster" - with no ON/OFF state, just a Push)Is this board useable for my switches? So can i connect the 12V to your board somehow and send the 12V "press button" to the main Fuse Box?
Thank you,
Arthur.
@artipi - As I'm not completely sure about the German wiring system I can't give you a answer that would be strictly abiding your rules. However, I will attempt to answer from my own personal opinion:
I'm not sure what you're sending the 12v back to the main fuse box for, this will simply send a 1/on or 0/off to your MySensors gateway. What you do with that signal is completely up to you. You could have a relay connected to mysensors gateway and then switch that relay with this light switch node. So, i suppose you could actually get a line on your fuse box switch with this but it would have to be sending signals to the gateway first, not directly to the fuse box.
Sorry if I haven't understood your intent correctly.
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@artipi - As I'm not completely sure about the German wiring system I can't give you a answer that would be strictly abiding your rules. However, I will attempt to answer from my own personal opinion:
I'm not sure what you're sending the 12v back to the main fuse box for, this will simply send a 1/on or 0/off to your MySensors gateway. What you do with that signal is completely up to you. You could have a relay connected to mysensors gateway and then switch that relay with this light switch node. So, i suppose you could actually get a line on your fuse box switch with this but it would have to be sending signals to the gateway first, not directly to the fuse box.
Sorry if I haven't understood your intent correctly.
@Samuel235 - Thanks for the fast reaction:).
Ok, now i understand your switch node.
I think i need something with a 12V Relay. So i can send a command (ON/OFF) to a relay node that will act like my light switch. -
@Samuel235 - Thanks for the fast reaction:).
Ok, now i understand your switch node.
I think i need something with a 12V Relay. So i can send a command (ON/OFF) to a relay node that will act like my light switch.@artipi - That sounds very likely what you need. A double relay situation. However, if it was me, i would question what you need to switch it at the fuse box for. I would run the line to the lights from the fuse box and then switch it behind the like using a relay like i do (and will be releasing my relay node tonight on here and openhardware.io). Then that is switched using this wireless switch node.
However, the regulations in german wiring may be so that you have to do all switching inside of the fuse box.
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In Germany and also in Belgium a lot of house installations have been built with pulse relays and 0-10V dimmers in a central switch box and only 12V controls to the switches. Makes for a bit more work when building the home (conduit from the fusebox to all seperate switch boxes) but changes during the lifetime are a breeze.
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In Germany and also in Belgium a lot of house installations have been built with pulse relays and 0-10V dimmers in a central switch box and only 12V controls to the switches. Makes for a bit more work when building the home (conduit from the fusebox to all seperate switch boxes) but changes during the lifetime are a breeze.
@DavidZH - I have to be honest here. I would love it if we did this in the UK. I wouldn't be scratching my head about how to fit a double relay board behind a light switch. I really do wish we had low voltage at human accessible point through-out the house, rather than switch 240V inside of a light switch.
Out of interest, is this 12V in your switches DC or AC?
Also, this is the relay board that i have just published. Development work to be done a little further though. https://www.openhardware.io/view/345/Homini-AC-Powered-Relay-2-Module
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@DavidZH - I have to be honest here. I would love it if we did this in the UK. I wouldn't be scratching my head about how to fit a double relay board behind a light switch. I really do wish we had low voltage at human accessible point through-out the house, rather than switch 240V inside of a light switch.
Out of interest, is this 12V in your switches DC or AC?
Also, this is the relay board that i have just published. Development work to be done a little further though. https://www.openhardware.io/view/345/Homini-AC-Powered-Relay-2-Module
@Samuel235
As far as I know the power to the switches is AC. Only a simple transformer, and Bob your uncle. They do also work on DC, as they only use a short pulse to change state.
Here in NL only a handful have an installation like that. I am most certainly not opposed to it, but most houses over here do not have room for a huge switch box needed for such an installation. And another plus is that those relays can stay and you only have to add your domotica controls to the panel. Only difficult thing is the feedback to the controller of the state. You'd have to add auxilary contacts, or measure the live wire.I do not have a system like this but was just explaining what Artipi has.
And I think there are some other things in the UK electrical system that need te be dead and buried in a hurry. Like the 32A ring circuit.... 😣
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@Samuel235
As far as I know the power to the switches is AC. Only a simple transformer, and Bob your uncle. They do also work on DC, as they only use a short pulse to change state.
Here in NL only a handful have an installation like that. I am most certainly not opposed to it, but most houses over here do not have room for a huge switch box needed for such an installation. And another plus is that those relays can stay and you only have to add your domotica controls to the panel. Only difficult thing is the feedback to the controller of the state. You'd have to add auxilary contacts, or measure the live wire.I do not have a system like this but was just explaining what Artipi has.
And I think there are some other things in the UK electrical system that need te be dead and buried in a hurry. Like the 32A ring circuit.... 😣
@DavidZH - I really hate our electrical system here, but that is coming from an electronics guy, not a electrician. I like the idea of low voltage in the switches, however its AC. I would prefer to see DC, but the voltage drops might be something that they're attempting to avoid by sending AC instead. Yes, i agree about those damn rings and we also don't have the room here in the UK like you mentioned about the NL.
