Thanks @OldSurferDude. I am bit newbie in circuit design, does the R20 inrush current limiting resistor must be 2W? or the 0.5W resistor in the BOM works fine?

The author has done some good work ensuring good design practices; trace separation, fuses, etc. but I don't see any extra I/O brought out on this particularl switch. You would have to carefully solder to the chip itself, and modify the code a bit. You could use magnetic switches. Put a magnet on the blinds and the switch in window sill. The author notes that this is not an Arduino, but uses the same chip that the Arduino uses. The author doesn't explain how the chip is programmed. This method could have been used. It may be just as easy to use an RF Nano with a little power supply. This suggestion is not nearly as robust as the author's. For example, these power supplies have gotten bad reviews mainly because the mains power traces are too close together. I justify using them because in all likelihood a failure will pop the power supply and probably the Nano, too, noting that these are cheaper than the fuses you would put in to protect them. I am fully aware of the risks involved in doing this, and you should be, too (eg. burning down your house). -OSD

Please send me kicad files, the ones that can be downloaded, can't be opened in kicad 5, or upgrade here. Thank you

Hi @talhatec , The remote controls work well. 4 months ago I installed a new battery and from time to time I press the button to check if they continue with battery, they sleep correctly. I remain pending to change the RF antenna for a better one and to improve some failures in the connectors of the battery that at the moment are very fragile (the pad has little copper). The casing can be purchased online https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bluetooth-4-0-GPS-Tracker-Locator-Smart-Alarm-Anti-lost-Device-Self-Portrait-SC/401394156488 For now the project is stopped, I want to test the Aqara sensors (I buy them this week), in any case the domotics is now my lowest priority.

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them. https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

@dzungpham0703 I buy them on Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180706102504&SearchText=HTTM If you apply hot air it is easy to take off the white "double sided tape" and the plastic.

@anticimex I can see where that is a good thing

@Jonathan-Roberts said in 💬 Simple AC/DC Switch WeMos: @nca78 bummer. So I think 2 options... What if the Wemos is raised off the PCB. That would be almost 5/8". In your experience would that help? And maybe the best option, slide the antenna module straight down,. move the relay up and spin it around so the connections are on the outside edge. I'm trying to make this multi-purpose and allowing both headers to be fully functional to other projects. thx for the advise. 1 would help but not that much. It's already not a good thing to have the transformer just next to it on the side, so you should avoid blocking one more direction with tracks. I don't understand your necessity to have connectors available for something else on the relay that is too high to put anything on top ? 2 sounds like a much better option, make sure you have nothing right and left of the antenna when you move things around. The problem you will have with this layout is the USB in that situation... It doesn't sound like a great idea to me to use Wemos on this board especially for the relay part, it's just a cheap chinese relay with 3/4 components so why not just put them directly on you board to make the layout so much easier ? I have the feeling that you're trying to make things "easier" by using Wemos and its shields, but in the end you seem to lose more than you gain. And neither does it seem "safer" to use their relay shield as it forces you to have extra wires between main of the HLK and relay shield connector.

Hello Tilman, this is really a very nice design. I have ordered a pack of PCBs from elecrow, based on your gerber files, and have a few questions: in your BOM you have listed 5 smd-capacitors and 7 smd resistors, but on the PCB i have solderpads for 6 capacitors and 8 resistors. Can you just explain? is there a uniflächentaster-model for 2 ways? i think i have to flash the bootloader first, do you have a tutorial for this, and a sample-sketch for the board? Thank you very much

@Nca78 Do you tested this board, if yes, did it work? And which CS capacitors did you use?

Made a first print but setting for this filament are clearly wrong as the print quality sucks :( [image: 1496840779054-imag1745_1-resized.jpeg]

@gohan - Dell R710 over here, brought pretty cheaply in the UK tbh. I have a few things running on it as I'm Microsoft trained and certified so i enjoy messing with that kind of stuff. I was once in that field and attempted to get some work but nothing ever came from it (i got sick of hearing "Sorry, you don't have sufficient work experience") so I've ended up back in University studying mechatronical engineering :( Anyway, that is another topic for discussion, you're welcome to message me anytime for a chat, would be nice :)

@marcusakamg7 that's strange, I never ordered this board on OSHPark, I will check later.

@Samuel235 said in 💬 Homini AC Powered Relay (2) Module: OMRON G3MB-202P Okay I'm trying to help you with the fuse component. ;-) I found a datasheet for the OMRON G3MB-202P. And there are enoght information to be known for fuse selection. :-) I try to calculate it here (and i will try it with my bad English ;-) ). The most important information is the melting integral. The Melting integral has A²s as unit. So this means the maximum current for a time can exists without damaging the device. For further information look at wikipedia. So we need any further information about: the protection which is present before (the typical circuit protection in private houses) the melting integral from the device which we want to protect the maximum voltage the maximum switching current the breaking capacity Inrush current for the switched devices (we can't know) Typical values for an automatic circuit breaker in private houses are: from 25 to 100 A²s 230 V AC 16 A So this protection isn't good enough for our relay. The relay have these values: 230 V AC 2 A maximum switching current I²t value (melting integral): 4 A²s the allowed inrush current over a small time is higher than the melting integral. It is a bit confusing i think, but if we calculate the protection for the given melting integral and it's fine. So we can define the parameters for the client (switching site of this application here) The fuse have to be: I²s value higher or equal than the I²s value from the existing protection rating voltage over 230 V AC rating current 2 A or lower (because 2 A is the maximum at 25 °C, for 40 °C it is about 1.6 A) a maximum switching time of 1 second at 2 A or lower time with higher current but below 4A²s! To calculate use the switching time from the fuse datasheet an multiply it two times with the given current for this switching time. And i think a fast blow fuse would be the best. There are SMD fuses with 10.1 x 3 mm and 250 V AC available. If there is no fuse available with the values above, we could combine multiple fuses. A possible solution could be one bigger fuse for both relays and the ac/dc component. And a smaller fuse for the switching site of the relay and the HLK-PM01. But for this it is important that the circuit have only one input for the hot one (L) of 230 V and one output for each relay. In this case we could reduce the big connectors from 6 to 4. Like (L, N, Relay1, Relay2). And the temperature fuse can work for all components too ;-) So the protection for the primary site of the HLK-PM01 is a problem i think. Because the are no information available about the I²s value from HLK-PM01. I hope you can understand my English and could follow my explanation?

@chbla said in 💬 Multiple uses battery RFM69 node: Can anyone suggest a source for the parts? Are there any sources that you can upload the files by any chance? If you mean can you upload a BOM to a company and then it generates a basket of the items, then i know that farnell and maybe digikey do this. But i only use this feature that is built into EAGLE pcb designer, so i'm not sure if they support it directly on their websites, might be worth a look. http://www.farnell.com/ http://www.digikey.co.uk

Do you really need a compact device?

@mardah oh... you mean pin change system, not extint. You can use it of course.

@JahFyahh - I still haven't managed to et round to it. I've been really busy since this project and its still hectic here. I'm sure i read a few reviews somewhere, here or google. Not sure.