@berkseo Yes, it's available here. The documentation is a little bit scarce I admit but if you understand Apache MyNewt and its build system it should be pretty straightforward theoretically. I will add more details when I have the time. The code was tested and it's in production. Works without a glitch so far.

Please send me kicad files, the ones that can be downloaded, can't be opened in kicad 5, or upgrade here. Thank you

Hi @talhatec , The remote controls work well. 4 months ago I installed a new battery and from time to time I press the button to check if they continue with battery, they sleep correctly. I remain pending to change the RF antenna for a better one and to improve some failures in the connectors of the battery that at the moment are very fragile (the pad has little copper). The casing can be purchased online https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bluetooth-4-0-GPS-Tracker-Locator-Smart-Alarm-Anti-lost-Device-Self-Portrait-SC/401394156488 For now the project is stopped, I want to test the Aqara sensors (I buy them this week), in any case the domotics is now my lowest priority.

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them. https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

@dzungpham0703 I buy them on Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180706102504&SearchText=HTTM If you apply hot air it is easy to take off the white "double sided tape" and the plastic.

@anticimex I can see where that is a good thing

@Jonathan-Roberts said in Simple AC/DC Switch WeMos: @nca78 bummer. So I think 2 options... What if the Wemos is raised off the PCB. That would be almost 5/8". In your experience would that help? And maybe the best option, slide the antenna module straight down,. move the relay up and spin it around so the connections are on the outside edge. I'm trying to make this multi-purpose and allowing both headers to be fully functional to other projects. thx for the advise. 1 would help but not that much. It's already not a good thing to have the transformer just next to it on the side, so you should avoid blocking one more direction with tracks. I don't understand your necessity to have connectors available for something else on the relay that is too high to put anything on top ? 2 sounds like a much better option, make sure you have nothing right and left of the antenna when you move things around. The problem you will have with this layout is the USB in that situation... It doesn't sound like a great idea to me to use Wemos on this board especially for the relay part, it's just a cheap chinese relay with 3/4 components so why not just put them directly on you board to make the layout so much easier ? I have the feeling that you're trying to make things "easier" by using Wemos and its shields, but in the end you seem to lose more than you gain. And neither does it seem "safer" to use their relay shield as it forces you to have extra wires between main of the HLK and relay shield connector.

Hello Tilman, this is really a very nice design. I have ordered a pack of PCBs from elecrow, based on your gerber files, and have a few questions: in your BOM you have listed 5 smd-capacitors and 7 smd resistors, but on the PCB i have solderpads for 6 capacitors and 8 resistors. Can you just explain? is there a uniflächentaster-model for 2 ways? i think i have to flash the bootloader first, do you have a tutorial for this, and a sample-sketch for the board? Thank you very much

@Nca78 Do you tested this board, if yes, did it work? And which CS capacitors did you use?

Made a first print but setting for this filament are clearly wrong as the print quality sucks

@gohan - Dell R710 over here, brought pretty cheaply in the UK tbh. I have a few things running on it as I'm Microsoft trained and certified so i enjoy messing with that kind of stuff. I was once in that field and attempted to get some work but nothing ever came from it (i got sick of hearing "Sorry, you don't have sufficient work experience") so I've ended up back in University studying mechatronical engineering Anyway, that is another topic for discussion, you're welcome to message me anytime for a chat, would be nice

@marcusakamg7 that's strange, I never ordered this board on OSHPark, I will check later.

@Samuel235 said in Homini AC Powered Relay (2) Module: OMRON G3MB-202P Okay I'm trying to help you with the fuse component. I found a datasheet for the OMRON G3MB-202P. And there are enoght information to be known for fuse selection. I try to calculate it here (and i will try it with my bad English ). The most important information is the melting integral. The Melting integral has A²s as unit. So this means the maximum current for a time can exists without damaging the device. For further information look at wikipedia. So we need any further information about: the protection which is present before (the typical circuit protection in private houses) the melting integral from the device which we want to protect the maximum voltage the maximum switching current the breaking capacity Inrush current for the switched devices (we can't know) Typical values for an automatic circuit breaker in private houses are: from 25 to 100 A²s 230 V AC 16 A So this protection isn't good enough for our relay. The relay have these values: 230 V AC 2 A maximum switching current I²t value (melting integral): 4 A²s the allowed inrush current over a small time is higher than the melting integral. It is a bit confusing i think, but if we calculate the protection for the given melting integral and it's fine. So we can define the parameters for the client (switching site of this application here) The fuse have to be: I²s value higher or equal than the I²s value from the existing protection rating voltage over 230 V AC rating current 2 A or lower (because 2 A is the maximum at 25 °C, for 40 °C it is about 1.6 A) a maximum switching time of 1 second at 2 A or lower time with higher current but below 4A²s! To calculate use the switching time from the fuse datasheet an multiply it two times with the given current for this switching time. And i think a fast blow fuse would be the best. There are SMD fuses with 10.1 x 3 mm and 250 V AC available. If there is no fuse available with the values above, we could combine multiple fuses. A possible solution could be one bigger fuse for both relays and the ac/dc component. And a smaller fuse for the switching site of the relay and the HLK-PM01. But for this it is important that the circuit have only one input for the hot one (L) of 230 V and one output for each relay. In this case we could reduce the big connectors from 6 to 4. Like (L, N, Relay1, Relay2). And the temperature fuse can work for all components too So the protection for the primary site of the HLK-PM01 is a problem i think. Because the are no information available about the I²s value from HLK-PM01. I hope you can understand my English and could follow my explanation?

@chbla said in Multiple uses battery RFM69 node: Can anyone suggest a source for the parts? Are there any sources that you can upload the files by any chance? If you mean can you upload a BOM to a company and then it generates a basket of the items, then i know that farnell and maybe digikey do this. But i only use this feature that is built into EAGLE pcb designer, so i'm not sure if they support it directly on their websites, might be worth a look. http://www.farnell.com/ http://www.digikey.co.uk

Do you really need a compact device?

@mardah oh... you mean pin change system, not extint. You can use it of course.

@JahFyahh - I still haven't managed to et round to it. I've been really busy since this project and its still hectic here. I'm sure i read a few reviews somewhere, here or google. Not sure.

I've updated the docs at home-assistant.io with sketch examples. Look at the light example. https://home-assistant.io/components/light.mysensors/#example-sketch It's what I used for testing during development. It adds an RGB sensor/actuator also besides a dimmer, but you can just remove any references to rgb in the sketch. The dimmer slider will only be visible after turning on the light and clicking the entity in the gui to bring up the more info card.

Thanks again @martinhjelmare Upgrade went successfully.

@artipi - Hi, nope not at the moment but if you search the forum there is some projects/authors working with touchscreens.

@drock1985 Yes, it's possible to rename devices and also customize icons etc. See my post here: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2388/home-assistant-how-to-recognize-mysensors-nodes/64

@DavidZH - I really hate our electrical system here, but that is coming from an electronics guy, not a electrician. I like the idea of low voltage in the switches, however its AC. I would prefer to see DC, but the voltage drops might be something that they're attempting to avoid by sending AC instead. Yes, i agree about those damn rings and we also don't have the room here in the UK like you mentioned about the NL.

Thanks for this input, please can you share which kind of relay i have to use ?

@dzairo there is a nice PinChangeInterrupt library that you may want to look at.

Use a latching relay. Here is one I found on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015MRQNXS/?coliid=I3LXTGKX4GEPUR&colid=31WWM91JAUE22&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it If you are trying to use with existing 3 ways use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015MSYQ8Q/?coliid=I3RP8X9OMYWU97&colid=31WWM91JAUE22&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Use an optocoupler to indicate lamp status...see the last diagram in this post. https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=435506.0