Hey there @Chaotic ! This is Fay from codebender.cc Thank you for using codebender! I just wanted to let you know that one of the sketches you are using in this comment has been deleted and so it is not available for users to view it. Let me know if you have any question.
following this thread loosely.
I have the following sensors and they seem to be accurate to some degree:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/DFRobot-Capacitive-Analog-Soil-Moisture-Sensor-3-3-5-5V-Corrosion-Resistant-with-Gravity-3-Pin/32574020064.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.2.P99ddH&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_1_10037_10017_507_10033_10032_10040,searchweb201603_1&btsid=8d3b5e46-a069-441a-a1f7-491ae7e317e1
and they are much easier to work with Arduino compared to Watermark stuff. Anyone agree?
@NeverDie said in The Harvester: ultimate power supply for the Raybeacon DK:
Edit: This guy found another couple of possibilities as to what the E50D chip might be: https://www.electroschematics.com/pfm-module-circuit-surgery/
I have the same board as this guy. I removed the LED and resistor because they are on the input side, so they are almost useless anyway. For a board such as this, with a promised 0.9v startup voltage on the input side and a promised 5v on the output side, they really should have been attached to the output, not the input, to show roughly when it is that the board is producing useable output.
At a 20mv "keep alive" input voltage, the input measures 0.5ma using a uCurrent Gold. That means the keep alive energy is 10 microWatts. Offhand, for the application we've been discussing on this thread, I suspect that number is too high to be practically useful, because at only 20mv input we'd be collecting far less than 0.5ma current from a tiny panel. At least now we know.
@kimot I am not handling that situation. I'm taking for granted ssr will do his job. Maybe there's some ssr safety topic I'm unaware? Suggestions for a v3.0 are welcome.
About the temperature measuring... I use two sensors. The one in the board protects electronics from temperatures beyond design (60°C). It's near the ssr because the ssr's derating curve is the most limiting condition.
The control sensor is placed in the bottom of the heater. It connects to the board through a 3 pin header connector.
Hi @tbowmo, do you mind to explain a bit about the design? I'm interested with your design.
I will use these steps for removing voltage regulator, http://goo.gl/CsZaNg
So the design will be battery > external step up regulator (http://goo.gl/PFt99R - to stabilize 3.3v) > vcc pin ?
with these then I can use my first post design?
Thanks
