@berkseo 50pcs/lot EE10-A1 Switching Power Supply High Frequency Transformer 220V to 5-12V Maximum Output 3W https://a.aliexpress.com/_sOShjH It's the same supplier that I used also and the lot seems to be fine...well at least the 2 pieces that I tested so far . Now the latching relays. I found them on Aliexpress only and I received something else instead (which seems to happen from time to time) but luckily it works OK so far. So instead of Hongfa relays I got Massuse which seem to be equivalent. Rest of the components can be sourced from LCSC which is a more trusty component supplier compared to various vendors from Aliexpress (which I already knew..but I didn't had other choices). Oh and the PCB design and everything else was done using EasyEDA for obvious reasons (JLCPCB is very cheap and pretty good quality for a hobbyist, also their SMT service). I really like their ecosystem - you just create the design using their tool and order everything from there - very, very handy and cheap also as I already mentioned.

@Mishka said in The Harvester: ultimate power supply for the Raybeacon DK: The current limiting resistor between the SPV1050 and the tantalum capacitor has been removed Why removing the resistor? Why not placing it after the (optional) Tantal to protect a downstreamed Batt or Cap?

It might be possible to power the Arduino off the output pin. Since they are dirt cheap I would just test it. But like the others I would suggest to use the interrupts of pin 2 and 3. For my battery powered 3.3v pro mini I use 3.3v pir sensors without the voltage regulator. The standard 5v pir needs at least 4.5v just to step it down internally to 3.3V. On these I had problems with voltage stability because I stepped it up to 5V. Also the battery lifetime was poor. With the 3.3v pir version this thing runs for months. With the solar panel on top maybe forever.

@bisschopsr I now have the schematics posted for all of my boards. I also posted another board for my in-wall scene controller line. Is there any other pics or information that you think might be useful to others for any of these boards?

@ceech I really like this design, however I think it has a problem: According to the datasheet the TPS610986DSET has no feature to disconnect the load at low battery voltages. I think the result will be that e.g. a ESP32 or other power hungry chips will not power up properly. The TPS63031 might therefore be a better fit. btw.: Do you still sell assembled versions of this design? Would you be willing to create a new version with the TPS63031 and probably also with 10 or 20F capacitors or an board to solder your own capacitors. Best regards Tobias

@m26872 said in Encapsulated transformers instead of traditional switching power supplies like Hi-Link: for me the sunny season is too short. I havn't yet tried to use solar batteries in winter so maybe I have the same problems (despite the fact that I'm living 3 degrees south of you), but I have backup solution for very cloudy winter days - regular battery charger.

Hi @koresh - I had a little accident on the AC side :-). I was wondering what values the 2 resistors (TH and SMD) and diode are ? Thanks!

What is the max ampere capacity of 3.3V battery it can charge ? Is there any upper limit like 1000mAh or 3300mAh like that ?

@yury said in Wall Socket Insertable Node: Looks cool! Do you have experience with capacities switches? I did not play much with them. afraid to use close to AC interference though... You need to use a capacitive IC with active shielding, basically you have an extra electrode around your touch electrode and the touch IC will compare capacitive change of the touch electrode with capacitive change from the shield electrode. If the change is due to electrical interference then both electrodes will be changed in a similar way and the IC will not trigger.

@MiKa which box are you referring to? Generic boxes are available here: https://www.mysensors.org/store/boxes

I like the project. I guess the circuit is not a clone. It costs a lot actually. Is there any other alternatives than cost < 5$ ?

@epierre You can use a Peltier element to power this board. Like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TEC1-12706-12V-60W-Heatsink-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Cooling-Peltier-Plate-Module-/121349774916?hash=item1c41029e44:g:mukAAOSwDNdVrg-U TEC1-12706 12V 60W Heatsink Thermoelectric Cooler Cooling Peltier Plate Module $2.09 Sold out