I'm very interested by your setup. It has been a shame to have some low voltage power in order to measure power consumption
I hope you can display something soon.
Regards,
@mr_red
I have a zipped snapshot of all the 3d step/wrl models that I used to build my projects so far. It was quite some work to gather them all and align with the footprints using the kicad stepup tools. It's not complete - still needs some more work:simple_smile: but it should help you or anyone else to get started into MCAD integration using FreeCAD and kicad stepup tools. Maybe it's not very easy to start when using free tools but hey they are "FREE" so we cannot ask for more. But the nice thing is that once you get used it will be really easy to do your stuff and to go forward. Oh and FreeCAD can be so powerful after you learn it - I was really amazed what you can do with it(it has it's quirks and downsides but once you master it - oh, well...).
There's also: https://www.onshape.com/ - pretty powerful this one too and it has more advanced features than FreeCAD but the downside is that it's a cloud based solution: it's free for public documents but you never know when they will go to paid accounts only so yeah...I don't really like the idea to depend on something that it's hosted and the application is not on my PC along with the documents that I create with it. Cloud solutions have their flexibility but you're locked and you depend entirely on that hosted service.
Ok, enough talking...I uploaded the zip file here: http://www.mediafire.com/file/kzh1l9uo40cpj1u/kicad_stepup_packages.zip
@Tmaster What I meant by my previous comment was to tap on the Node name to see what sensors were connected - Had you clicked on TANQUE you would have seen a box pop up below giving you all the children to that particular Node with what value was last updated and when, so you could easily have found out all about your mysterious 13 children.
At least you have it sorted now, but it pays to do a bit of housekeeping in the sketch setup and Domoticz - eg which of the 6 "Unknown" Nodes is the one you want to next have a look at ?
All my Node IDs are set at the Node, and the sketch name labels the Node ID also, the Nodes are named in Domoticz for easy identification.
In the sketch my sensors are numbered sequentially and commented on what they are, so naming them in Domoticz becomes very much easier.
@NeverDie Thx for appreciating the work done. There will also be an open source part in the future. When and how extensive the open source part will be, remains to be seen. The release of certain information (block diagram, ..., in this post) is related to those open source parts.
There are some OBD solutions, however most of them (in my experience) give back low frequency data put by the car manufacturer on the OBD-bus (CAN, ...). Therefore transients evolving directly from the battery could only be recorded if the manufacturer sends those data accordingly on the bus. Due to the small bandwidth(also because of other car data that have to be sent, ...), such battery data are sent more often once per second or less. Fast battery events (i.e. cranking events, ...) are therefore imperceptible. Unless the manufacturer processes the fast events and then sends them (once per second or less), which is very unlikely if the manufacturer does not market this feature itself. Third parties devices for high frequency sensing costs several hundreds dollars.
In my experience, important battery states (especially the fast ones) are recorded by measuring and processing corresponding data directly on the battery.
I agree with you about the limits related to the communication over Bluetooth. But i think Bluetooth 5.0 will improve a lot. However, WiFi will always remain an important option due to the high data throughput. The combination of both (BLE & WiFi), especially with regard to energy consumption, will gain in importance.
I'm wondering what the minimum input voltage is. The description only says max. 6.5V input voltage from the battery, but does not say what the minimum is. Both the nrf24l01+ as well as the atmega328P work with 3.3V, so if I use three AA batteries, that should be fine, right? I suppose using two AA batteries is not enough?
@openhardware-io
Hi: (Please direct to Feanor-Anglin if possible)
I previously ordered some 4RelayDIN PCBs off openhardware.io and got v1.6 PCBs but the info on the site I found is only for an earlier version of the PCB board.
I am trying to build some of the boards but there are additional compomemts on the newer PCB board.
The main one which looks to be a driver IC.
Would you please share the updated information with me or perhaps update the openhardware.io site.
Many thanks, Rod
Hello, i'm making some progress; received the components this week.
Unfortunately it doesn't work... yet
For now i have SanityCheck failure in to logs.
I'm afraid my soldering of all these little components is not good. I tested with a multimeter the 4 pins and i have continuity on one of them but maybe not the others so i guess i will have to try remelting all these small regulators ???
