@GLAB You can set the frequencies using the settings in MyConfig.h, which is in the MySensors folder. If you put any of the defines from MyConfig.h into your sketch, they will override the MyConfig.h setting for that sketch only. If you are using the RF24 radio, there are different channels which correspond to a given frequency. The default is channel 76. There is a list of typical channels in MyConfig.h. If you want to change the channel for all the sketches, change it in MyConfig.h. If you want to change it just for the sketch, add a define to the sketch. For example: #define MY_RF24_CHANNEL (84) The problem with changing the channel in a sketch is that the gateway has to be on the same channel to receive from the node. So, normally it makes sense to change in MyConfig.h because you usually want the gateway and all the nodes on the same channel. Other radio's like the RFM69 list the frequency instead of using a channel. They can be overridden in the sketch as well. You can find the defines that are needed in MyConfig.h

I have success! (oops, that's suppose to be Timer1) I only sample for 1/60 of a second. What I did was to back up all the timer registered I used and then resorted them after I was done sampling. (As opposed to initializing the registers in setup and then starting the timer when needed.) Now I have a Nano sampling the data and sending it to a MySensors Gateway on an RPi3B+ which then sends it to an MQTT broker runing on an old laptop. Also running on the laptop is Home Assistant running inside of VirtualBox. If MySensors does use Timer1, it appears that restoring the registers allows it to be shared. //------------------------------------------------------ISR ISR(TIMER1_OVF_vect){ // interrupt service routine for overflow TCNT1 = TimerPreloadValue; // must be first line! starts the timer counting again digitalWrite(TRIGGER_START_SAMPLE_PIN,HIGH); samplesVolts[--sample]=analogRead(VOLTS_IN_PIN); // decrement before capturing samplesCurrent[sample]=analogRead(CURRENT_IN_PIN); digitalWrite(TRIGGER_START_SAMPLE_PIN,LOW); if (!sample){ // count down to zero digitalWrite(TRIGGER_START_SAMPLE_PERIOD_PIN,LOW); // indicate that sampling is complete samplingEnd = micros(); TCCR1B &= 248; // turns off timer } } //------------------------------------------------------sampleOneCycle void sampleOneCycle(){ // back up timer registers uint8_t TCNT1_b = TCNT1; uint8_t TCCR1B_b = TCCR1B; uint8_t TCCR1A_b = TCCR1A; uint8_t TIMSK1_b = TIMSK1; // configure timer which starts the sampling noInterrupts(); // disable all interrupts TCCR1A = 0; TCCR1B = 0; TCNT1 = TimerPreloadValue; // preload timer //TCCR1B |= (1 << CS10)|(1 << CS12); // 1024 prescaler TCCR1B &= 248; // turns off timer? TIMSK1 |= (1 << TOIE1); // enable timer overflow interrupt ISR // demark sampling sample = NUMBER_OF_SAMPLES; // count down to zero digitalWrite(TRIGGER_START_SAMPLE_PERIOD_PIN,HIGH); samplingStart = micros(); TCNT1 = 65535; // first trigger right away! TCCR1B |= 1; // turns on timer interrupts(); // enable all interrupts // wait for sampling to be complete while(digitalRead(TRIGGER_START_SAMPLE_PERIOD_PIN)){}; samplingEnd = micros(); // restore timer registers TCNT1 = TCNT1_b; TCCR1B = TCCR1B_b; TCCR1A = TCCR1A_b; TIMSK1 = TIMSK1_b; }

@Tmaster What I meant by my previous comment was to tap on the Node name to see what sensors were connected - Had you clicked on TANQUE you would have seen a box pop up below giving you all the children to that particular Node with what value was last updated and when, so you could easily have found out all about your mysterious 13 children. At least you have it sorted now, but it pays to do a bit of housekeeping in the sketch setup and Domoticz - eg which of the 6 "Unknown" Nodes is the one you want to next have a look at ? All my Node IDs are set at the Node, and the sketch name labels the Node ID also, the Nodes are named in Domoticz for easy identification. In the sketch my sensors are numbered sequentially and commented on what they are, so naming them in Domoticz becomes very much easier.

I successfully worked around the issue by updating the /Library/Application Support/Perceptive Automation/Indigo 2022.1/Plugins/MySensors.indigoPlugin/Contents/Server Plugin /plugin.py script to recognize the internal 21 code. Here's the diff: 34c134,135 < "GATEWAY_READY" : [14, "Gateway ready", ""] "GATEWAY_READY" : [14, "Gateway ready", ""], "DISCOVER_RESPONSE" : [21, "Discover response", ""] 715a717,719 elif itemType == self.getInternalNumber("DISCOVER_RESPONSE"): # 21 Ignore pass P.S. Indigo 2022.1 is complaining about this plugin that it won't be supported in future releases. Is there anyone out there planning to update this plugin?

Here's a similar project: https://www.openhardware.io/view/268/Arduino-Pro-Mini-Shield-for-RFM69HW

final sketch and functional with MyController /* * DESCRIPTION : 4 inputs and 4 outputs on i2C bus with a PCF8574 * * LIBRAIRIES: * - Rob Tillaart pour PCF8574 https://github.com/RobTillaart/Arduino/tree/master/libraries/PCF8574 * - MySensors / Arduino Uno https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors * * ELEMENTS: * - Expander PCF8574 avec module Metasys JC / 4di 4do - 0X03D i2c adress * * MODIFICATION: * -x- RAS : Fonctionnelle * -o- * -o- * * (36%) de l'espace de stockage de programmes */ //----------- 9 Mai 2022 ---------------- PCF8574 -4DI-4DO / MyS RS485 et MyC -----------------// //------------------- MyS --------------------------------- //#define MY_DEBUG /*Enable debug prints to serial monitor*/ //#define MY_DEBUG_OTA_DISABLE_ECHO //testing #define MY_TRANSPORT_WAIT_READY_MS 3000 /*Tempo de mis en Com (millisecondes) à placer avant Mysensors.h*/ #define MY_NODE_ID 40 /*Node en ID static*/ /* ----- Module TTL-RS485 ----*/ #define MY_RS485 /*Apl du transport RS485 (protocol?)*/ #define MY_RS485_DE_PIN 10 /*Cmd DE pin*/ #define MY_RS485_BAUD_RATE 9600 /*Set RS485 baud rate to use*/ #define MY_REPEATER_FEATURE /*Activer fonctionnalité de répéteur du nœud*/ #include <MySensors.h> //---------------- PCF ------------------------------- #include "PCF8574.h" PCF8574 PCF27a (0x3D); // adjust addresses i2c pcf8574 // ------ objet ------ #define CHILD_ID_B0 0 /*Id IN - bp */ #define CHILD_ID_B1 1 #define CHILD_ID_B2 2 #define CHILD_ID_B3 3 #define CHILD_ID_R4 4 /*Id OUT - relay */ #define CHILD_ID_R5 5 #define CHILD_ID_R6 6 #define CHILD_ID_R7 7 #define RELAY_ON 0 // 1 valeur #define RELAY_OFF 1 // 0 invers //---------- MyS ------------- MyMessage msg0(CHILD_ID_B0,V_TRIPPED); /*Boton*/ MyMessage msg1(CHILD_ID_B1,V_TRIPPED); MyMessage msg2(CHILD_ID_B2,V_TRIPPED); MyMessage msg3(CHILD_ID_B3,V_TRIPPED); MyMessage msg4(CHILD_ID_R4,V_STATUS); /*Relay*/ MyMessage msg5(CHILD_ID_R5,V_STATUS); MyMessage msg6(CHILD_ID_R6,V_STATUS); MyMessage msg7(CHILD_ID_R7,V_STATUS); bool info; // pour info GW sur MyC bool state = false; // output // bool state4 = false; bool state5 = false; bool state6 = false; bool state7 = false; int oldValue0=-1; int oldValue1=-1; int oldValue2=-1; int oldValue3=-1; // Input //---------------- SETUP ------------------------- void setup() { // Serial.begin(115200); // debug //--------- testing IsConnected i2c PCfx ------------ Serial.println(__FILE__); Serial.print("PCF8574_LIB_VERSION:\t"); Serial.println(PCF8574_LIB_VERSION); if (!PCF27a.begin()) { Serial.println("could not initialize..."); } if (!PCF27a.isConnected()) { Serial.println("=> not connected"); } else { Serial.println("=> connected!!"); } // ---- info send to gateway ---- send(msg0.set(info)); send(msg1.set(info)); //input wait(200); send(msg2.set(info)); send(msg3.set(info)); //input wait(200); //delays for frames, depending on system load and bus type (wireless or wired) send(msg4.set(info)); send(msg5.set(info)); //output wait(200); send(msg6.set(info)); send(msg7.set(info)); //output } //----------------- MyS ---------------------------- void presentation() { sendSketchInfo("PCF8574 x4in/out - node40", "2.0"); /*info version sketch*/ /*Mysenors Enregistre Child sur la Gw*/ present(CHILD_ID_B0, S_DOOR, "boton0"); /*Boton*/ present(CHILD_ID_B1, S_DOOR, "boton1"); wait(200); present(CHILD_ID_B2, S_DOOR, "boton2"); present(CHILD_ID_B3, S_DOOR, "boton3"); wait(200); //delays for frames, depending on system load and bus type (wireless or wired) present(CHILD_ID_R4, S_BINARY, "relay4"); /*Relay*/ present(CHILD_ID_R5, S_BINARY, "relay5"); wait(200); present(CHILD_ID_R6, S_BINARY, "relay6"); present(CHILD_ID_R7, S_BINARY, "relay7"); wait(200); // metric = getControllerConfig().isMetric; } //----------------- LOOP ---------------------------- void loop() { //----------- MyS input ------------------------------- int value0 = PCF27a.read(0); if (value0 != oldValue0) { send(msg0.set(value0==HIGH ? 1 : 0)); //Send new value oldValue0 = value0; } int value1 = PCF27a.read(1); if (value1 != oldValue1) { send(msg1.set(value1==HIGH ? 1 : 0)); oldValue1 = value1; } int value2 = PCF27a.read(2); if (value2 != oldValue2) { send(msg2.set(value2==HIGH ? 1 : 0)); oldValue2 = value2; } int value3 = PCF27a.read(3); if (value3 != oldValue3) { send(msg3.set(value3==HIGH ? 1 : 0)); oldValue3 = value3; } } //----------- MyS out ------------------------------- void receive(const MyMessage &message) { if (message.getType()==V_STATUS) { switch (message.sensor) { case 4: state= message.getBool(); PCF27a.write(4, state?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF); break; case 5: state = message.getBool(); PCF27a.write(5, state?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF); break; case 6: state = message.getBool(); PCF27a.write(6, state?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF); break; case 7: state = message.getBool(); PCF27a.write(7, state?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF); break; } } } //------------------------------ End pgm -------------------------------------

@yoshi824 Most of us have been where you are now! I suggest that you try to see the patterns in the code that you have working and try to make the SHT30 work from what you learn. If it does not work as you want then post here the full code you have and what it is/isn't doing and you should get some help.

To provide a large enough pulse to drive the ceramic transducer , you need a lot of energy, so they pump up the 5v with an inductor/transformer to provide a high voltage pulse. This is 60v or more… The more Energy you produce the farther the pulse will travel…. Everything thing else on the board run at 3.3 to 5V. Add a large Capacitor of 100 µF are so between the 5v and ground on the device, this may clean up your problem.. Some CPU modules just can’t supply enough current quick enough that’s needed when the pulse is triggered. These are very inexpensive device, we’re luck to see them work at 1/2 the spec range.

@Sunseeker According to the Connecting the Radio page, D2 is the default pin for the CE signal for the NRF24. If you'd like to use this pin for I2C, you can free it up by assigning a different pin for the CE signal by adding this line to your sketch: #define MY_RF24_CE_PIN pin IIRC, all available pins should work for this purpose (D0, D3, D4). Just pick one and if it doesn't work, use one of the other pins. Please make sure to add that line before #include <MySensors.h>.

@Zwer2k my expectations seem correct. I created a bug report that also includes a rudimentary workaround. https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/issues/1496#issue-968399284

I think you need to post a clear drawing or photos of the setup and the code you are using. I donlt know what you mean by "connecting the current in series" nor what "AC regulator" you are using or what "thermal serial currenr" is.

@WiktorDIY The ch340 are notorious for being broken. The best I ever achieved was 19200 and flakey.. I purchased a real Nano not a ch knock off eg uses a different uart no problems

@mfalkvidd Thank you. I will read it.

@Ron said in Capacitive Soil Moisture Sensor: @Puneit-Thukral Thanks. I am not quite sure, so correct me please if I am wrong, but I think I am already using the MiniCore bootloader with platformIO. Or do I need to configure to explicitly use the MiniCore bootloaders? Also I have set BOD to disabled as I read somewhere that no BOD can also save battery. hi I'm not sure, but I believe I'm already using the MiniCore bootloader with platformIO. Please tell me if I'm incorrect. Is it necessary to set the MiniCore bootloaders explicitly?

@NeverDie Thx for appreciating the work done. There will also be an open source part in the future. When and how extensive the open source part will be, remains to be seen. The release of certain information (block diagram, ..., in this post) is related to those open source parts. There are some OBD solutions, however most of them (in my experience) give back low frequency data put by the car manufacturer on the OBD-bus (CAN, ...). Therefore transients evolving directly from the battery could only be recorded if the manufacturer sends those data accordingly on the bus. Due to the small bandwidth(also because of other car data that have to be sent, ...), such battery data are sent more often once per second or less. Fast battery events (i.e. cranking events, ...) are therefore imperceptible. Unless the manufacturer processes the fast events and then sends them (once per second or less), which is very unlikely if the manufacturer does not market this feature itself. Third parties devices for high frequency sensing costs several hundreds dollars. In my experience, important battery states (especially the fast ones) are recorded by measuring and processing corresponding data directly on the battery. I agree with you about the limits related to the communication over Bluetooth. But i think Bluetooth 5.0 will improve a lot. However, WiFi will always remain an important option due to the high data throughput. The combination of both (BLE & WiFi), especially with regard to energy consumption, will gain in importance.

@KevinT every time, yes. I don't know the relation to processing.

When you post the sketch, please post the text, not a photo of the screen.

@hlehoux glad to hear that!!

In general, yes, the MySensors framework (library?) should support FOTA a couple different ways (read more at link). Were you aware of this, or is there some problem with your particular hardware? @NielBierman said in FOTA possibilities for remote sensor network: Raspberry pi I don't know yet whether you even need to change your gateway from microcontroller (uC) to Single Board Computer (SBC) or not. However if you do (or are looking for a controller, or whatever), by all means, please do yourself (and all of us) a favor and do a little more research as there are lots of better options out there for SBC nowadays, than RPi! For me, uC have been fine for gateway although I do use some SBC for controllers, MQTT broker, and various other GNU/Linux based servers/services and they are wonderful for that. But perhaps your needs are different from mine.

@YuryPol as far as I know, all licenses require some form of documentation. In all cases I know of, this is documented with the license or on the licenses official site.

@GLAB No worries, was in a similar situation.. My perspective was on what the Node could be made to provide, not what could be done within Domoticz to address the requirement - eg Had heard of Dummy counters but had no experience nor understood their purpose, nor had ever used scripts. I had been sending a logical ON/OFF as well as a cumulative total from the Node and hit the same hair-pulling scenario as yourself. Now only the ON/OFF is sent and the short script makes the transposition within Domoticz to a dummy meter (I think kWhr) using the internal clock in Domoticz. Have fun

Very useful topic for me, thanks. Even though it's been a long time, the information was useful to me. And especially the information on the link you sent.

Hi @chey, no, with the pro minis and MySensors lib I couldn't get less. Didn't measure with yet another multimeter though... My battery sensors are working now for about a year and the battery levels are between 65% and 70%. The sensor furthest from the gateway is at 65% and the 3 others at 70%. Not bad I think. https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/11499/checking-mechanical-locked-doors-by-a-battery-based-windows-door-sensor-node

thanks for you reply Fumée Bleue.

@openhardware-io That looks great! - Perhaps they could make a version for the UK market called "regnsyn" ??? ;0

Please add the documents required by the CERN license used.

Hello, i'm making some progress; received the components this week. Unfortunately it doesn't work... yet For now i have SanityCheck failure in to logs. I'm afraid my soldering of all these little components is not good. I tested with a multimeter the 4 pins and i have continuity on one of them but maybe not the others so i guess i will have to try remelting all these small regulators ???

@rvendrame sorry, I did not see your comment. Yes, it is VERY valuable. Thanks a lot

@kimot I am not handling that situation. I'm taking for granted ssr will do his job. Maybe there's some ssr safety topic I'm unaware? Suggestions for a v3.0 are welcome. About the temperature measuring... I use two sensors. The one in the board protects electronics from temperatures beyond design (60°C). It's near the ssr because the ssr's derating curve is the most limiting condition. The control sensor is placed in the bottom of the heater. It connects to the board through a 3 pin header connector.

@openhardware-io Hi: (Please direct to Feanor-Anglin if possible) I previously ordered some 4RelayDIN PCBs off openhardware.io and got v1.6 PCBs but the info on the site I found is only for an earlier version of the PCB board. I am trying to build some of the boards but there are additional compomemts on the newer PCB board. The main one which looks to be a driver IC. Would you please share the updated information with me or perhaps update the openhardware.io site. Many thanks, Rod

@alowhum thank you

Hello Berk, Is it possible for you to share your schematic for this project please? especially the power part?

ESUN flex filament used.

@krisztian Hi krisztian, the singleLED board - as its name suggests - features only one LED output. If you want to have a setup with multiple LED strips you need to design a board with multiple outputs. I have already designed a board with 4 outputs, but I haven't built it. In terms of software you need to register multiple sensors in your program like this: #define numCh 4 //the number of outputs const byte ledPins[] = {9,6,5,3}; byte ledLevel[numCh]; boolean ledDimWay[numCh]; //in the setup function request the dim levels from the gateway for(byte i=0; i<numCh; i++) request(i, V_DIMMER); //in the presentation function register multiple lights for(byte i=0; i<numCh; i++) present(i, S_DIMMER); //if you receive a signal, you need to check for the sensor id setLED(message.sensor, requestedLevel); //to set the LED level (function: setLED) you need to use the sensor id to determine brightness and pin //Fade LED to set level int delta = (level - ledLevel[child]) < 0 ? -1 : 1; //Write to LED analogWrite(ledPins[child], map(ledLevel[child],0,100,0,255)); I will probably publish the whole code once I have built and tested the 4LED controller (i call it "MySensors rainbowLED") Hope I could help you ThetaDev

Hi! I have the same problem as terxw. allpcb.com is missing the "NC drill date". Unfortunately I am not able to create this on my own. Can anybody upload this file? Thanks

Is this design for some existing enclosure?

I have already published all the documentation, on my website, GitHub and openhardware.io For now I leave the node as finished. SmartHome: Wireless LED RGBW Controller – 00:55— giltesa

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them. https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

Hi @talhatec , The remote controls work well. 4 months ago I installed a new battery and from time to time I press the button to check if they continue with battery, they sleep correctly. I remain pending to change the RF antenna for a better one and to improve some failures in the connectors of the battery that at the moment are very fragile (the pad has little copper). The casing can be purchased online https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bluetooth-4-0-GPS-Tracker-Locator-Smart-Alarm-Anti-lost-Device-Self-Portrait-SC/401394156488 For now the project is stopped, I want to test the Aqara sensors (I buy them this week), in any case the domotics is now my lowest priority.

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them. https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

@dzungpham0703 I buy them on Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180706102504&SearchText=HTTM If you apply hot air it is easy to take off the white "double sided tape" and the plastic.

@Michael-Link I have been out of touch with MySensors for some time now and looking to slowly get back into it. I created this and a few other boards back in 2018 All of the GERBER files for this are in the "Design Files" tab. Those you should be able to send to JLC PCB or one of the other fab houses and have some made. This was designed to be used with 2 other boards that I designed. There was the processor board and the power supply board. The processor board was designed in a way that I could use a couple different switch boards. This one and a universal multi-switch board that had multiple configurations. If you look here you will see my other boards.

Please append support RS485

@bisschopsr I now have the schematics posted for all of my boards. I also posted another board for my in-wall scene controller line. Is there any other pics or information that you think might be useful to others for any of these boards?

You would use PID if you have a temperature feedback from the rooms, but in your case you are not interested so it doesn't matter much. Sure turning off pump when not needed is a good thing. I have colleague that also bought a few netatmo devices to control floor heating of some zones of his house and he is very happy.

@neverdie that's quite some money...

@andreas-sieber The white circle on the PCB you mean? IMO That's silkscreen indicating the touch area.

@shabba Hi, unfortunately I don't have time and patience for doing BOM's on all of my projects but in this case it's not very hard as the external component count is greatly reduced by using the NRF51822 RF SOC which is a PTR5518 module from Aliexpress. Other than that there is the Microchip touch sense controller - MTCH105 and the usual smd resistors(0603) and caps. Other than that you're not forced to use and solder the onboard dc-dc converter so you don't have to worry about those components - you just need to solder the 3V_EN jumper to use the Livolo 3V output coming from the main relays/power supply board.

Awesome project, I wish I made something like this. (I actually wanted to make something like this when I was in school) Very clean and nice presentation and realization, with a lot of attention to details. All is very realistic, I can imagine that it took quite some time making it. Thanks for sharing the details!

@pihome few months tops, I think.

@kalina, Thanks. So it will not work for my configuration. Wall switch (push button) is already installed. No possibilities to draw more electrical wires. Moreover, if i put the board near the light, i have just the Neutral and the return wire from the wall switch. No Live wire to power on the mysensors board. I think in my ase the best way is to manage everything in my garage in the electrical main board where all the wires are mapped. I can get L + N for mysensors power supply. And i can continue to reuse the original wall switch independently of the Mysensors board.

Hello Tilman, this is really a very nice design. I have ordered a pack of PCBs from elecrow, based on your gerber files, and have a few questions: in your BOM you have listed 5 smd-capacitors and 7 smd resistors, but on the PCB i have solderpads for 6 capacitors and 8 resistors. Can you just explain? is there a uniflächentaster-model for 2 ways? i think i have to flash the bootloader first, do you have a tutorial for this, and a sample-sketch for the board? Thank you very much

id also second the use of 18650s

@Nca78 Do you tested this board, if yes, did it work? And which CS capacitors did you use?

@bisschopsr said in BlackCircle Sensor - High "WAF" Temp/Hum. sensor: Hi All, Like the design thinking of this, although an older topic I did manage to get me one of these dishes. After taking it apart, I have one question that came to mind. Is the ventilation in the dish enough for the humity sensor? Is there any experience with that after running this sensor for a while? Thx Ralph Hello, yes I think it's enough, in fact there's much more ventilation than in many commercial sensors which only have a small hole. But it's a good test to make, I'll try to compare to a sensor out of it's enclosure to see if there's significant difference or delay.

Hello, can you post BOM please, according to schematics tantalum schould be 100uF bat tantalum cap in picture is 4.7uF

@LastSamurai Thanks, it looks great.

@Nca78 FWIW, I used 1.55mm holes. There may be no perfect diameter since we don't even know for sure yet which lens will turn out best.

Hello @reinhold, yes the PCB works, I have assembled one and tested it for basic function (not all buttons and leds) but I have stability problem that comes from the software, I put it aside to do other things and didn't have time to go back to it, if there is some interest for it I will find some time and finish at least a basic script.

Made a first print but setting for this filament are clearly wrong as the print quality sucks

@toyman said in NModule DC Fan / PWM shield: Can the FET withstand continious 2A load? I have one meter long 5050 strip FDD8447L is rated for 15A continuous load. You don't want to try that because it's possible only with a big pad and 2oz copper PCB, but 2A will not be a problem on this board, there's plenty of margin https://isojed.nl/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/FDD8447L.pdf

Hi @blackchart, Unfortunately, all devices are sold out. Further production is possible only when ordering more than 10 devices (in this case, I also can modify the device to suit your needs).

Ok thank you @Nca78

Hello, I'm thinking about upgrading this board to include pinout for LIS3DH breakout board, like this one : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LIS3DH-Three-Converters-Motion-Accelerometer-Triaxial-Acceleration-Temperature-Sensor-Module-Development-Board-Replace-ADXL345/32840326778.html and ditch the ADXL shield as it's not a good solution, it has either the ADXL345 which uses too much power, or the ADXL362 which is ultra low power but lacks advanced functionality like tap/double tap detection. I would like to have feedback of users on this (do it sound useful ?), and also know if anyone uses the SMD footprints on the board, for leds and for reserve capacitors, as it could be a cleaner board without those footprints. I would make the following changes : put footprint for LIS3DH accelerometer along the "NModule connector" as it has too many pins to put elsewhere keep only one I2C footprint on the side, for "GY-49" MAX44009 light sensor breakout board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GY-49-MAX44009-Ambient-Light-Sensor-Module-for-Arduino-with-4P-Pin-Header-Module/32828654450.html temperature/humidity would be via the existing "SMD" footprint, it's not through hole but very easy to solder as it's 2.54mm pad spacing remove SMD footprints for LED, add footprint for through hole reserve capacitor, keep SMD footprints for reserve capacitors only if I have space for them shield would be a bit extended to go over the 2 M2 holes in the "power" part of the NModule, so it could be fitted with spacers and nylon screws and have stable/reliable mechanical connection between NModule and Shield. Basically this would be the footprint of the shield : So in the end it would make one shield to have Temperature/Humidity/Light/Acceleration or Temperature/Humidity/Light/Door.

@zmatokan said in NModule: @Nca78 Are you still working on this pcbs? i think it would be great to add a version that supports HiLink 220ac->5dc module on powerboard. No I'm not working on NModules anymore, I have a few old nodes using atmega/nrf24 but I switched to NRF5 for "basic" nodes now, and to ESP32 for more "advanced" stuff. NModule was designed for beginner and simple/riskless use, so I don't think adding high voltage option is a great idea, it's better to use an external power supply and connect the output to the powerboard.

@mtiutiu Wooow Wooow Wooow ! Here they are ! This one gang you designed will be my 1st Livolo hack So many many thanks @mtiutiu Best regards

Sorry. Disregard.

Hello all, I studied a little bit more this part of the circuit and it's a standard self oscillating flyback converter or a ringing choke converter as others call it. Indeed it provides the most compact solution for space constrained designs. But all of this comes at a cost: it's difficult to obtain a stable circuit and it has to be tuned by trial and error - at least this is what the literature says. I'm not a switching power supplies expert here(even though I want to learn more about SMPS's in general but my time is limited for now) but I've come to a conclusion: it's difficult to tune this or to change the existing circuit to accommodate the mysensors circuits power requirements. I tried various combinations using sleep schemes and to change the flyback converter components as other mentioned in the mysensors forum and indeed I can power up my custom design that is presented in this thread BUT it's NOT STABLE. From time to time the switching transistor(mje13003) burns out and this is because I removed the resistor placed at the input of this power supply - near the bridge rectifier and replaced it with a wire(this is not the same resistor as @Lukaspp replaced from the base of the transistor which is the startup resistor for the flyback converter). Now the only purpose that I imagine for this resistor is to suppress the transients - but it has a big value(100Kohm) which limits the current to a non-usable value for our purpose. I know that there are other solutions to overcome the transients but they are either bulky or too slow for this(correct me if I'm wrong here). More than that let's not forget that we have 2 power supplies here and when the lights go on the first supply(flyback) input gets shorted by the relays contact(I have the relays variant btw not the one with triac) so I'm thinking that other transients appear here as the primary inductor doesn't like that as far as I know - so I assume the above mentioned resistor of 100Kohm comes into play here too. Another role for it would be to limit the inrush currents. I played with that value too but it needs to be very low to have something stable and I got a value around 200ohms but that doesn't help as it's too low and after some time the resistor burned up and saved my transistor :simple_smile: . Now with all the tricks in the world and tuning the flyback converter to give more current this won't help as again let's not forget we have a SERIES circuit here so without external intervention we can't achieve that(only if we break somehow the laws of physics or maybe my thinking is limited :simple_smile: ). In this case the external capacitor placed across the light bulb comes into play to supply enough current to the standby circuit which is our flyback converter over here. I played with that one too and from 0,47uF I got to 4.7uF to have a decent result - but this one gets bulky and more expensive from obvious reasons. And let's not forget that the light bulb itself has some impact overall because this is the actual LOAD that we want to control and there are various light bulbs over there with various requirements. More than that they have their power supply embedded which in most of the cases is a(you guessed maybe): a self oscillating FLYBACK CONVERTER or similar. So this one too has inrush currents, transients which are sensed down the line to our dear Livolo switch and affects my custom board stability again :simple_smile: - isn't life beautiful? :simple_smile: So far these are the results of my trials and none of them proved to be stable so I kinda gave up on this and will try to use a normal powering scheme somehow(as Sonoff switches with a battery powered touch switch on the wall). Not the best solution of all but this is what you get when the infrastructure wasn't thought for this scenarios from the beginning. The Livolo guys thought of all of this I assume so that's why they stayed only with a simple circuit - a PIC mcu which maybe sleeps most of the time and a simple radio receiver which draws around 5mA or even less - so yeah that's why this works and it's stable in its original form.

I look forward to seeing photos....

How is this project holding up? Is it still running and was it accurate?

Finally solved a lot of problems and checked a lot of mistakes. But now the first version of this device works almost properly :trollface: I will make a small report in the description asap

I think you can just set the I2C pins in MyBoardNRF5.h without remapping the pins in MyBoardNRF5.cpp. Look in MyBoardNRF5.h, under the Wire Interfaces section. Set SDL and SCA to 30 and 31 as appropriate for your board.

@magpern said in MyQTherm - replace IQTherm heating thermostat: I actually am thinking somewhat in the line of discontinuing mysensors network. It is to much, hacks and tricks, and I forget everything in between sessions. I gave up more than once, also over period of years. Recently I came back again and decided to focus on the heart of the issue, getting my radios working and once you get over that, it starts to get fun again. I can respect if you already moved on to something else. I even cheated on MySensors and installed some 433 mhz devices too , just to get something working. You have to keep your interest in HA alive in the meantime. But the reward is great when you get MySensors working. There are "easier" solutions like Tasmota, 433mhz, etc. but not as customizable as MySensors. MySensors is for when you outgrow those other solutions and need something more custom.

I like those relays. Is that 3 different switched outputs? One thing I always liked about european wall switches is that they give you more room for components. I would like to use a similar type of relay for my in-wall switches, but with the way US single gang wall boxes are, there is a pretty narrow space constraint. I might be able to fit it if I did away with the thermal fuse, but I don't want to give up tat bit of added safety just for that.

Hello, I want to build this project. But I don't need to power it by batteries. Has anyone the circuit diagram (in FrizIng?) I have also the problem, that I can't see, on the breadboard picture of this project where the red wire from the battery ends after the connection to the Arduino? Does it go to the FET and the R7? Can anyone help me?

Love the big red button!

there is no schema in this archive

@user2684 Thanks a lot

Ah.... Ok

Lovely work. Are you proposing to sell the boards? SMD looks too hard.

@marcusakamg7 that's strange, I never ordered this board on OSHPark, I will check later.

@Andrew-Currie Downloaded KiCad and used it to import jBoard2.brd and output .gbr files via Plots plus the .drl file. Checked using GerbView and uploaded to PCBWay. Hopefully this will now work...

Testing and updating can resume now my first year at university has finished and I now have 4 months worth of MySensors development to get started on!

BTW, I like how you both made a case for it. Very nice!

@pugho You can do a lot of customization in Domoticz like custom icons etc. Just browse the wiki and forum (and don't get distracted ;-))

Wow, great! Its alway nice to see others using my work too. Your code improvement seem to be very helpful too. I have most recently also integrated this directly into my gateway build (see here). I am still struggling with code there though.

@Roland-Wijnen Hi! Were you able to compile the available files? I tried, but there has been a lot of error!

Hi Mardah, how this the progress on this project related to the software and testing? kind regards

@antonholmstedt a pro mini fits if you cut the corners, check out https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6612/door-sensor-remix-of-some-mys-community-efforts

I liked domoticz (was very easy to set up and use). Together with dzVents scripting wasn't that difficult either. But I also had some problem with it lately, so I was actually thinking about switching to openhab (2).

@Samuel235 said in Homini AC Powered Relay (2) Module: OMRON G3MB-202P Okay I'm trying to help you with the fuse component. I found a datasheet for the OMRON G3MB-202P. And there are enoght information to be known for fuse selection. I try to calculate it here (and i will try it with my bad English ). The most important information is the melting integral. The Melting integral has A²s as unit. So this means the maximum current for a time can exists without damaging the device. For further information look at wikipedia. So we need any further information about: the protection which is present before (the typical circuit protection in private houses) the melting integral from the device which we want to protect the maximum voltage the maximum switching current the breaking capacity Inrush current for the switched devices (we can't know) Typical values for an automatic circuit breaker in private houses are: from 25 to 100 A²s 230 V AC 16 A So this protection isn't good enough for our relay. The relay have these values: 230 V AC 2 A maximum switching current I²t value (melting integral): 4 A²s the allowed inrush current over a small time is higher than the melting integral. It is a bit confusing i think, but if we calculate the protection for the given melting integral and it's fine. So we can define the parameters for the client (switching site of this application here) The fuse have to be: I²s value higher or equal than the I²s value from the existing protection rating voltage over 230 V AC rating current 2 A or lower (because 2 A is the maximum at 25 °C, for 40 °C it is about 1.6 A) a maximum switching time of 1 second at 2 A or lower time with higher current but below 4A²s! To calculate use the switching time from the fuse datasheet an multiply it two times with the given current for this switching time. And i think a fast blow fuse would be the best. There are SMD fuses with 10.1 x 3 mm and 250 V AC available. If there is no fuse available with the values above, we could combine multiple fuses. A possible solution could be one bigger fuse for both relays and the ac/dc component. And a smaller fuse for the switching site of the relay and the HLK-PM01. But for this it is important that the circuit have only one input for the hot one (L) of 230 V and one output for each relay. In this case we could reduce the big connectors from 6 to 4. Like (L, N, Relay1, Relay2). And the temperature fuse can work for all components too So the protection for the primary site of the HLK-PM01 is a problem i think. Because the are no information available about the I²s value from HLK-PM01. I hope you can understand my English and could follow my explanation?

@HouseIOT Sorry to trouble you, i use a mysensors-wifi-gateway with protocol 2.1.1 , and my homeautomation is home-assistant. I can't use your dimmer in my system. After read the reference, there need to add V-percentage and V-status in the code, as a newbie , I can't do it myself. So I wondered，can you do me a favor? Thanks a lot.

I'm very interested by your setup. It has been a shame to have some low voltage power in order to measure power consumption I hope you can display something soon. Regards, Qq.

Hi, I finally received the boards from the manufacturer(big thanks to @Seeed-Fusion). I manage to assemble one board by soldering the components and such and...it WORKS(including OTA)! I will post the instructions on openhardware.io project page.

@mr_red I have a zipped snapshot of all the 3d step/wrl models that I used to build my projects so far. It was quite some work to gather them all and align with the footprints using the kicad stepup tools. It's not complete - still needs some more work:simple_smile: but it should help you or anyone else to get started into MCAD integration using FreeCAD and kicad stepup tools. Maybe it's not very easy to start when using free tools but hey they are "FREE" so we cannot ask for more. But the nice thing is that once you get used it will be really easy to do your stuff and to go forward. Oh and FreeCAD can be so powerful after you learn it - I was really amazed what you can do with it(it has it's quirks and downsides but once you master it - oh, well...). There's also: https://www.onshape.com/ - pretty powerful this one too and it has more advanced features than FreeCAD but the downside is that it's a cloud based solution: it's free for public documents but you never know when they will go to paid accounts only so yeah...I don't really like the idea to depend on something that it's hosted and the application is not on my PC along with the documents that I create with it. Cloud solutions have their flexibility but you're locked and you depend entirely on that hosted service. Ok, enough talking...I uploaded the zip file here: http://www.mediafire.com/file/kzh1l9uo40cpj1u/kicad_stepup_packages.zip

Hello. Any news from this project? Do you made the changes for the timer TLP?

The project does not work without neutral wire

@dzungpham0703 I replied in the nrf51822 thread. Yes I managed to make it work like the original with BLE stack. And using the wonderful Cypress Proc BLE solution including capsense and lots of goodies . Cypress really rocks! I love them. The current consumption was lowered to 200uA without being connected and 700uA connected. Those numbers include LEDs current consumption and other blocks like touch sensing. I'll get back with more updates when it's finished.

What are the parameters of this radio, I could not get it to work. Suspicions that he had no speed 250.

I am non technical but I have 8 wirsbo stats in my house. One of them is faulty and the unit is now obsolete. Is it possible to purchase one of these pcbs and use it to replace the one in the faulty stat ? Thanks Richard

@MikeSalmida, No GPS sensor device definition exists for Vera. If you're up to it, create one and add it to the Vera plugin repository.

I see a lot of "!TSF" and "NACK" which seems to be radio communication problems. That's MySensors related and can be related to many things, from soldering problem to power / capacitor issues. In MY_DEBUG mode you should see your temp/hum printed on serial every ~15s so there is something wrong there, either wiring or a code issue. Ty with the example included with the library "i2c_SI7021.h", without any MySensors related stuff, to see if your sensor is detected. You should see temp/hum on the serial.

@Koresh I do like it, i just worry for people that use their main PC as a controller. Easily knockable/damageable unless they use a rear socket.

@yveaux said in Ikea Molgan Hack: @magpern the instructions on openhardware.io state that the Molgan must be battery powered while programming: Well, then I can confirm that you don't have to power the Molgan from batteries just for programming. Burning the bootloader works fine with just power from the ISP port and programming it through FTDI works fine if power comes from the FTDI. What I found wierd is that the atmega328 had power, the radio had power, it wrote debug messages to the FTDI - when powered through the FTDI, it send radio messages etc, but it just did not receive messages. Messages where not received until I supplied power to the + / - pads (battery pads). I did read the instructions on openhardware.io, but I didn't follow then to the t.

Damm I am trying to get this working with a Arduino pro mini ,,but no luck wanted to use it in the car .. How do you wire the NRF24L01+ ??? N-Channel Mosfet s ??? model number please any help much appreciated I have tried mosfets >>>irf510n

Wow, what an amazing design.

In deep Sleep the cunsumption is below 19µA, but i have to send with PA_MAX. On some Windows the open/close frequency is verry high, so the battery is to fast emty. The CR2032 is good, but i want more "lifetime"

I am still using several temp/hum sensor and they are running great I also have just added code and pictures for my newly build light sensor (using an LDR).

Hi @aramko-aramko. Unfortunately, this model is already sold. You can look at the upgraded version of this device - MDMSNode "Lighting" Rev 1.1.

@lis610 I have found with a 499K resistor the range is reduced to about 1.2m in a ABS box. With a 1Mohm it was about 3m, I do not have many high value SMD resistors to experiment with but the lower the value the lower the range. Just tried with a 333K and it operates about 0.8m in free air.

@Nca78 Well, for small potted plants, you might have to re-pot the plant. However, the nice benefit that would arise is: no visible sensors, which carries with it very high WAF.

Hi @berkseo. Thanks for the suggestion, but could you describe in more detail? As for my TODO list, there is already a task to add 485 interface to the gateway. My latest device "xRoom" have this interface. ps/ Where have you gone? I have been working on "xRoom" shield. A small announce: Do you remember the discussion about multinode? So, it will be available soon))

Do you have interest to try OH2 together with MySensors Ethernet Gateway to get working? I do not have enough force to push developers to make this happen. At the moment there is some problem on this, because full control is not possible. I think that MySensors Serial Gateway is working with OH2, but I don't like to use it. I like to connect my devices into LAN not cabling via old fashioned way using serial wires.

@yury said in Wall Socket Insertable Node: Looks cool! Do you have experience with capacities switches? I did not play much with them. afraid to use close to AC interference though... You need to use a capacitive IC with active shielding, basically you have an extra electrode around your touch electrode and the touch IC will compare capacitive change of the touch electrode with capacitive change from the shield electrode. If the change is due to electrical interference then both electrodes will be changed in a similar way and the IC will not trigger.

@mardah oh... you mean pin change system, not extint. You can use it of course.