I have done some test on LGT8F328P-SSOP20 years ago. It may drop down to ~50uA under sleep mode. You may found the lgt8f branch in https://github.com/arcayi/mysensors/tree/lgt8f, which unfortunately was not accepted by master.
You might be interested to know I’ve developed a rather full featured RC system for model helicopters using the ML01DP5. It is proving extremely reliable even at great range. Today I’m testing with the ML01SP4 as it’s smaller - I hope the range is ok. There’s really only one way to find out ! Here’s a recent test …
Lockdown Radio! – 03:41— Malcolm Messiter
@Ivanli said in Private BLE Beacons with nRF52840:
Does it only work for Arduino nano? I have an Arduino UNO board and I don't know if I can achieve the same function.
Only on Nano BLE 33 not on classic nano which has no Bluetooth connectivity
@skywatch said in Solar/battery powering:
@zboblamont said in Solar/battery powering:
But then the hot water would not be suitable to shower/cleaning/pool etc and you then have to go to a heat exchange tank, somewhere to put it and insulate it and pipe to it. I am sure is can be done, but the fact that it is not 'standard' hints at it being costlly or impractical or both.
In fact, imo it's highly recommended to use a seperate circle for the "transport medium" (typically: antifreeze liquid)! Otherwise you will at some point in time get problems with corrosion or deposited dirt particles if media would be continuously renewed. Dependent on the needed amounts of (potable) warm water, it might even be a good idea to have three circles (medium for panel, heating water, potable water). But tanks, heat exchangers and so on (including steering electronics ) are (relatively inexpensive) standard components - at least here in Germany. So imo technical complexity isn't a thing to worry about too much. But as already mentionned: I really doubt, if you will have a financial benefit out of such an installation, if you have to built it from scratch nowerdays. Additionally: have a close look, how big the need for hot water really is - in most cases, e.g. 5m² panel size for a family of 4 persons should be enough for hot water supply in middle Europe (+300l tank volume). As soon as heating is involved, you'll need much higher tank volumes - with no benefit in summer, but not sufficient capacity on roof top or tank volume in winter times?
@rejoe2 Agreed! - But it's not OT as you could mysensors the hell out of such an installation!
Indeed, buiding one's own MySensors-based controller for such a hybrid heating ecosystem would be right on topic - but not in this thread here...
One of my very first things to get done with MySensors had been around my (gas based) central heating system;
we have some tubes installed that would allow medium transport from roof to cellar. But to be honest, atm. I'm not willing to invest in tanks etc.; it's just not cost efficient, even if I would do a lot of the installation work myself....
@CrankyCoder A third the volume I'm looking at, but in your case no pump issues.
Perhaps you might have a look at some of the less industrial sensors for what you want - a little differential sensor from Digikey on the end of a some poly pipe to a bib connex on the water line might give you all the info you need, ready compensated against atmosphere...
Thanks for the news flash. I'm guessing they'll rebuild pretty quickly though, since time is money.
Another factor to consider, which I haven't got a handle on: there's a wide gulf between hobbyist solar panels and commercial-grade high end solar panels. For instance, in terms of longevity and performance, frameless "double glass" solar panels are thought to the best quality money can buy,
in part because they're warrantied to last 30+ years: 1. the double glass means they don't rely on an EVA encapsulant that will turn brown and fail over time, and 2. frameless means they're more apt to clean themselves from just regular rain and wind. I've never seen a hobby, small version of that available though. The trouble is: in a lot of cases, solar only makes sense if it has longevity. If, like garden lights, you have to replace them every year (or every couple of months when the quality is especially egregious), then the cheap stuff is just false economy. I'm not sure whether there are even any generally recognized applicable standards. Like an ANSI of some kind? Otherwise, what you get is just whatever falls out of Pandora's box.