💬 HLK-PM01 breakout board

[sundberg84]

@Almamater its a glas fuse with legs, so not a holder and fuse, that took to much space. Search axial lead fuse.

Example:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112791896665
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174073055432

[Sleipnirr]

Thanks for the great design. I wonder if you could edit the design for new Hi-link 5V products (5V 5W HLK-5M05, 5V 10W HLK-10M05L, and 5V 20W HLK-20M05). They are very similar but different in size. Thank you.

[JohanH]

I've modified the PCB and added support for the 5W module (you can select to use either the 3W or 5W on same PCB). I've also added screw holes. Here is the list of changes:

• Imported to KiCad 5.1.8
• Added M2.5 screw holes
• Added EMI/EMC filter
• Added HLK-5MXX 5W models
• Board size: 72 mm * 42 mm

I've also changed track width to a more proper one for the respective voltages (secondary has larger current). You can leave out the EMI/EMC filter (add jump wires instead of the inductor) as it is not tested. I have not updated the BOM, but e.g. the inductor part id is mentioned in the circuit and the X2 cap is of common size.

You can download the updated design here: https://johanh.net/hlk/HLK-5M12_Breakout_board.zip

Comments are appreciated. I'm new to KiCad, so I might have done some mistakes. The KiCad project should maybe have been named as it was originally, but I renamed it to keep it separate.

[JohanH]

So I actually built one of the boards now. Only tested so far that it outputs 5V (more tests later). Still waiting on the common mode inductor (so jumpered so far). It was hard to find, but the one I designed it for is available at Digikey, part number 817-2151-ND‎ (manufacturer Schaffner RN202-0.3-02-12M‎).

One tricky thing I noticed about the original design by sundberg84 is that he incorporates a thermal fuse. These are really tricky to solder and are normally crimped in production devices, e.g. for fans and such. If you hold the solder iron more than half of a second to the leg you will pop it (you will hear a tiny click when the spring releases) and you have to discard it. Now it isn't absolutely needed on this board, you could just put a jumper in place. But here is a trick if you want to solder a thermal fuse.

Don't solder any other components before the thermal fuse (makes it more easy). Take a small bowl of water and submerge the fuse in water while soldering it. Keep it submerged a while after soldering is ready, to let it cool down completely. This is a 100% reliable way to not destroy the fuse.

Here is a picture of the thermal fuse being soldered:

[RobIII]

Hi! I was wondering why you used the 73°C thermal fuse specifically? I’m assuming it’s what you had lying around and any value of, say 70-85°C will do? Or is there a specific reason for that specific value?
I’m asking since that specific value (+/- 1°C) keeps popping up everywhere:

https://everythingesp.com/if-youre-like-me-you-constantly-find-that/
https://forum.arduino.cc/t/hlk-pm01-power-supply/427005
https://easyeda.com/matimoto/HLK_PM01-33b4760fcdff46b6b71784304f89c379

Thanks in advance!

[sundberg84]

@RobIII - there is no specific reason why I choose 73dgr, probably it was easy avalible.
70-85 woudl sure work good.

[titou4307]

Hello
I would like to pass order for this PCB....

Is it possible to have a version more larger for fixations (screw x4) for to fix this PCB on a box ?

Best regard

[sundberg84]

@titou4307 Hello! I dont really work on that project anymore, but its open hardware and all files are there so feel free to modify

[titou4307]

@sundberg84
Hi !!
Many thanks for your response and your reactivity

I will try to mod but I don't know this creation pcb but I will try

Have a good day and nice end of year 2022

titou4307 (from France)

[koray mascud]

what the ratings are of the two capacitors used in your circuit? A 1000 uF and a 100 uF?