The author has done some good work ensuring good design practices; trace separation, fuses, etc. but I don't see any extra I/O brought out on this particularl switch. You would have to carefully solder to the chip itself, and modify the code a bit. You could use magnetic switches. Put a magnet on the blinds and the switch in window sill. The author notes that this is not an Arduino, but uses the same chip that the Arduino uses. The author doesn't explain how the chip is programmed. This method could have been used. It may be just as easy to use an RF Nano with a little power supply. This suggestion is not nearly as robust as the author's. For example, these power supplies have gotten bad reviews mainly because the mains power traces are too close together. I justify using them because in all likelihood a failure will pop the power supply and probably the Nano, too, noting that these are cheaper than the fuses you would put in to protect them. I am fully aware of the risks involved in doing this, and you should be, too (eg. burning down your house). -OSD

what the ratings are of the two capacitors used in your circuit? A 1000 uF and a 100 uF?

Hi guys, I've made MySensors node based on that sketch, but I can't figure out, how to send V_VAR message from Home Assistant to set rollTime. Any ideas? I'm interested in UI number_input or something simmilar.

@kalina, Thanks. So it will not work for my configuration. Wall switch (push button) is already installed. No possibilities to draw more electrical wires. Moreover, if i put the board near the light, i have just the Neutral and the return wire from the wall switch. No Live wire to power on the mysensors board. I think in my ase the best way is to manage everything in my garage in the electrical main board where all the wires are mapped. I can get L + N for mysensors power supply. And i can continue to reuse the original wall switch independently of the Mysensors board.

@Jonathan-Roberts said in 💬 Simple AC/DC Switch WeMos: @nca78 bummer. So I think 2 options... What if the Wemos is raised off the PCB. That would be almost 5/8". In your experience would that help? And maybe the best option, slide the antenna module straight down,. move the relay up and spin it around so the connections are on the outside edge. I'm trying to make this multi-purpose and allowing both headers to be fully functional to other projects. thx for the advise. 1 would help but not that much. It's already not a good thing to have the transformer just next to it on the side, so you should avoid blocking one more direction with tracks. I don't understand your necessity to have connectors available for something else on the relay that is too high to put anything on top ? 2 sounds like a much better option, make sure you have nothing right and left of the antenna when you move things around. The problem you will have with this layout is the USB in that situation... It doesn't sound like a great idea to me to use Wemos on this board especially for the relay part, it's just a cheap chinese relay with 3/4 components so why not just put them directly on you board to make the layout so much easier ? I have the feeling that you're trying to make things "easier" by using Wemos and its shields, but in the end you seem to lose more than you gain. And neither does it seem "safer" to use their relay shield as it forces you to have extra wires between main of the HLK and relay shield connector.

Hi @blackchart, Unfortunately, all devices are sold out. Further production is possible only when ordering more than 10 devices (in this case, I also can modify the device to suit your needs).

I like those relays. Is that 3 different switched outputs? One thing I always liked about european wall switches is that they give you more room for components. I would like to use a similar type of relay for my in-wall switches, but with the way US single gang wall boxes are, there is a pretty narrow space constraint. I might be able to fit it if I did away with the thermal fuse, but I don't want to give up tat bit of added safety just for that.

Ah.... Ok :thumbsup:

Do you really need a compact device?

Hi, nice projet. I am very interested in it. But why you are using 5 V and not 3.3 V? The ATmea328 works with 3.3 V too and the NRF have to use 3.3 V. The only restriction on 3.3 V is the clock limitation for the Atmega (8 MHz). But with no crystal it don't care. For example you could use an HLK-PM03 instead of HLK-PM01 and remove the linear voltage regulator. So you get more space an everything have the same voltage level. And another point is, it is recommended to use a capacitor (0.1 µF) to ground for each voltage pin (Vcc, Avcc, Aref).

What I didn't quite figure out was how it operates independently as a regular light switch. What I find most interesting is that this is 8 years old. There have been some incredible advances in the IoT world in that time. I was about to do a similar thing which morphed into an ESP-12F then added a touch screen. I call it the Universal Light Switch Imagine this: All the switches are identical. Any switch can easily be configured to control up to five devices ... and then changed, on-the-fly, to control a different set of devices. My design is part of a system that would require a controller (eg. Home Assistant), an MQTT broker, and receiving modules in the devices being switched. It's WiFI which assumes an access point. The DIY ULS is under $20 and the off-the-shelf receiving modules are under $10. (About the cost of a non-networked dimmer switch) If one doesn't have the controller and MQTT broker, they can run on an old (5 years?) computer (which is cheaper than an old RasberryPi). This project is a good one! OSD