Well, it not really a build I plugged in wires, and copied code. Found a random usb charger and put it all in my workspace to be.

And I absolutely love this thing. Maximum of 3 hours work. I was having fun, so it could be more.

I considered that there could and should be a display on this thing, but not for now. I made this, because I have never experimented with temperature sensors and I just received a few. Now I can just see what happens with the temperature in there.
sensor is a AHT10 temperature and humidity.
http://www.aosong.com/m/en/products-40.html
I used this library: https://github.com/enjoyneering/AHT10
I repurposed Hek's DHT code, and swapped the readings with the AHT's

shed before

workspace after but still filling it.

Hi,

Recently I have been more 3D designing and printing, but I like some coöperated practice ;-).

And this point I don't do anything with mysensors, but there are some other longer term projects going on. I'm looking for someone who want's easy housing for there sensors or something.

I prefer it if someone lives nearby and that there will be some coöperation in the designing. I don't intend on making a profit but the material has to be paid for.

At this point I print reliable in PETG (black) and PLA (not in stock)

I am reconsidering a replacement for Domoticz because I experienced problems since I updated. I have to restart anyway.
I have some new pcb's ready to be soldered for new light dimmers. All in a nice moment to reconsider. I would like some assistance if home Assistant is good for me or there is an easier route. Btw I liked the ease of install with Domoticz.

• I like the idea of flashing firmware OTA.
  • I found one topic on hass.io that some user made it possible in 2018, but is it really integrated?
  • Can I use HomeAssistant on a linux install while maintaining firmware on windows with myscontroller?
• I think I want some node to node communication in case the controller fails.
  • For now, just for the lightswitches.

@tekka Right now, I am looking where your files are different from mine. I do not understand where I went wrong. perhaps I should also delete the other files that make creates, not just the hex.

Either way. A lot of thanks.

I have found a YouTube channel that has a few video's about using the 3018 CNC for PCB milling.

They winked a bit at the Wegstr promotional video.

But they seem to get good quality. They also have better video's explaining the steps.

https://youtu.be/fm5bsq7XD2g

Have any of you tried to make a vacuum table?

When it comes to the solder mask. Based on video I say this is done easier bij using UV exposure only. If you are using UV paint anyway, then you might as well print the design on a transparent sheet.

@NeverDie I could actually try this out.

I recently received solder mask paint, both white and green.

And I have a cheap 3 Chinese Watts uv laser engraver.

I was thinking that using transparent sheets is the easiest way to go since you have to expose it anyway, but ofcourse that also means more material use.

@NeverDie for lack of such a roll I have tried another idea I found on YouTube.

I used my laminator to spread out the paint. It gives not that perfect result that you see on factory prints but I was able to expose it for 30s and then a minute of cleaning and then another 2 minutes of exposing.

It is a very solid and well formed layer. Very scratch resistant.

I will have another go on the other side to see if this is repeatable.

Edit:

This is very repeatable. I tried scrubbing with alcohol first but aceton might be a bit better.

The letters are less than 0,4mm wide.

After scrubbing I exposed everything for another 3 minutes and than it seems to be scratch resistant.

So while I have not yet tested laser exposure or laser engraving, I have now tested a potential reliable way of applying the paint.

@NeverDie

You know I was just considering if it was worth it to film the process. But I think this will be a bit to much work. I will have to at least clear my desk for it to be presentable :-).

I but the PCB in a polypropylene A4 sized folder. It is thin material and the paint does not really want to stick on it.

The transparent sheets I use for printing the design on are made for inkjet printers. The paint sticks very well to this so the Polypropylene is very important.

Than only once I let it go trough the laminator. I have to make sure that it actually goes through it does not really want to on it's own.

@executivul

I use the same kind of plastic folder. They are dirt cheap. And yesterday I used the same one twice.

@NeverDie it was late in the night already. I meant 2 mils :-).

Yes the laminator is only rolling, there is no heat involved.

@NeverDie inkjet printing on semi transparent sheets.

@NeverDie I saw an YouTube video screenprinting. That guy noticed that semi transparent sheets work better than transparent sheets. Ink holds better or something.

I can actually try this one out. Because afteral. We want that 0.4mm pitch right?

I just need to find something to put the paint on.

@NeverDie I just read back around 2017.

Have you ever managed to get Andrews result? He claimed 6mil back then.

@NeverDie

Years ago I bought a face tanning device. They still sell these things second hand. And I expect like a lot of convenient but time consuming beauty devices, they are hardly used.

Cost you 5-10 euros here in the Netherlands. You might have something similar.

Anyway 30 seconds with this thing and it's cured.

@executivul good luck.

I noticed that I really have to hold the board and the plastic together, otherwise the rolls will pull the foil off the board.

So that might make aligning the artwork a bit difficult. Perhaps some form of holder for the PCB could prevent the shifting.

@NeverDie oh btw, I have not seen air bubbles.

@NeverDie you might as well buy those specialized springloaded engraving bits from Wegstr. If you are willing to invest this money.

These hot/cold laminators cost 15 euro here.

@executivul

I use the same kind of plastic folder. They are dirt cheap. And yesterday I used the same one twice.

@NeverDie it was late in the night already. I meant 2 mils :-).

Yes the laminator is only rolling, there is no heat involved.

@NeverDie
Ah yes the artwork comes on top of that.

I measured the paint thickness with a topcraft caliper. It shows 0,05mm or around 2 mils.

Even if you do manage to get that perfect layer thickness. There might still be the problem of the paint sticking to the artwork more than to the PCB.

This might be different though if the layer is thinner.

I think I can live with how fuzzy it is.

https://youtu.be/T56wuO43lW4
The linked video shows how to make a rod.

@NeverDie

You know I was just considering if it was worth it to film the process. But I think this will be a bit to much work. I will have to at least clear my desk for it to be presentable :-).

I but the PCB in a polypropylene A4 sized folder. It is thin material and the paint does not really want to stick on it.

The transparent sheets I use for printing the design on are made for inkjet printers. The paint sticks very well to this so the Polypropylene is very important.

Than only once I let it go trough the laminator. I have to make sure that it actually goes through it does not really want to on it's own.