Controller Developer

I usualy have it set at 10000. Give the network some time to connect.

Sorry to hear about your troubles. With my Ender I never have to adjust anything. It worked great out of the box and has continued to do so.

Perhaps you could try moving the whole build plate up to a higher point, where the springs are more compressed? There are also people who replace the springs for stiffer versions. Maybe that could help here.

I will, but it won't be for a while.

Ah, thanks for the clarification. In my use case this wouldn't be a problem. Phew!

The plantower devices were nice and small. But in the end I settled on the SDS011 simply because it can be connected to without soldering. In my use case - making it accessible to beginners - that was the most important factor.

I've also found that "how precise is it" doesn't matter all that much.

• In a home you just want an indication. After a while you just start to think in about 5 levels, ranging from "bad" to ''great".
• These cheap devices aren't precise enough to use in situations where you would care about precision, such as official measurements. So my recommendation is to forget about this.

I'd love to hear your reviews on your sensors actually.

I have an SDS011 fine dust sensor, couple of CO2 sensors (all the same unit) and a normal MQ gas leak sensor inside my heater.

Go for the Ender. It has wide support. You'll love it. Later you can always sell it second hand - precisely because it's such a popular machine.

This thread reads like an Agathie Christie novel. Well done on finding it!

Of the Prusa i3, I read on the Dutch platform Tweakers.net that there are some safety aspects, so would the power supply not be fireproof?

I haven't read that, but I haven't looked into the Prusa deeply. I bought the Ender 3 because of its price to performance ratio.

I wondered if I should get the Ender 3 pro. The only thing it really added that I wanted is a better power supply. But since it doesn't really impact anything, and you can always upgrade later, I decided to go with the normal Ender.

How did you mean the touch screen? do you mean that you actually have to replace the controller with a Raspberry pi?

No, I mean that some 3D printers come with fancy touch screen interfaces. The way you normally use them is that you put a file on an SD card, put that SD card in the printer, and then use the on device interface to start the print.

But you can also connect a Raspberry Pi to your printer (it has a USB port), and then it can control the printer. Once you do that, you can start, stop and follow prints through a web interface. No more hassle with SD cards. It's something you will want.

I use a 10 euro Raspberry Pi Zero W for this.

@Avamander Can you upload both, the GW and node sketches from the working pair nanoGW/megaNode? Also, it would be helpful to see the full GW log from the non-working combination (nanoNode/megaGW) with MY_DEBUG_VERBOSE_RF24 enabled. If time allows, I'd like to reproduce and test your setup.