My generic room-senser (Sensebender with Motion and Light)
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The preprogrammed sketch is a bit outdated, compared to the one on github where I had been working on minimizing transmissions with a moving average.
Been running the github version for some weeks in my two prototype nodes, but still need some adjustments to the temperature part, as it still seems to trigger a transmit with a little temperature deviation
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@tbowmo I think they have been discontinued and that makes them hard to find, I picked them up from a government surplus sale for cheap. I like them because they are very compact and are low power.
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@Dwalt - I really like this project and i'm looking to tag along building my own.
a few questions if you don't mind.- what were the resistors for? the battery?
- can i just get the light sensor and run it off d7? i don't need a "light sensor board"?
- i like your choice of case. do you think a double A battery holder will fit inside that? everything else would end up being the same, except i'd be using AA instead of CR123
4)how is your battery life?
Thanks!
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@Dwalt - I really like this project and i'm looking to tag along building my own.
a few questions if you don't mind.- what were the resistors for? the battery?
- can i just get the light sensor and run it off d7? i don't need a "light sensor board"?
- i like your choice of case. do you think a double A battery holder will fit inside that? everything else would end up being the same, except i'd be using AA instead of CR123
4)how is your battery life?
Thanks!
@mvader 1. The resistors are for the LDR and PIR.
2. I use LDRs (and occasionally photo transistors) for light measurement. They do not return lux readings but simple voltage readings which can be converted in your sketch to an unscientific % value of light level which is good enough for most HA purposes.
3. The case is too small for my 2-AA battery holders.Veralite UI5 :: IBoard Ethernet GW :: MyS 1.5
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@mvader 1. The resistors are for the LDR and PIR.
2. I use LDRs (and occasionally photo transistors) for light measurement. They do not return lux readings but simple voltage readings which can be converted in your sketch to an unscientific % value of light level which is good enough for most HA purposes.
3. The case is too small for my 2-AA battery holders.@Dwalt how is the battery holding? I have a need for very similar sensors but with hall effect or reed to sense the opening and closing of the air conditioning flaps to sense if they are on or off. The case is too small for 2xaa or 2xaaa so looking at other ideas. I remember something being said about using a li-io battery is not a great idea? or was it only rechargeable?
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@Dwalt how is the battery holding? I have a need for very similar sensors but with hall effect or reed to sense the opening and closing of the air conditioning flaps to sense if they are on or off. The case is too small for 2xaa or 2xaaa so looking at other ideas. I remember something being said about using a li-io battery is not a great idea? or was it only rechargeable?
@Moshe-Livne The batteries have not dropped in the last two weeks although they all read around 80% during the first battery report. One of three actually has dropped 1%, the other two are steady. The 80% initial reading comes from the sketch which I believe is calibrated for 3.3V as 100%. I tested my CR123s before using them and they all read exactly 3V. They are Lithium (Li-MNO2) but not rechargeable (Lithium Ion). Typically they run around $1-$1.5. I picked up around 50 when RadioShack went belly-up this winter for 5 for $1. They have a very small self discharge rate and 10 year shelf life. Below is a picture of my case lid with a 2-AA holder inserted. Technically it fits, but no room for anything else and the case is hard to close. Also shown is the lid of one of my recently built sensors with the CR123 holder.
Veralite UI5 :: IBoard Ethernet GW :: MyS 1.5
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@Moshe-Livne The batteries have not dropped in the last two weeks although they all read around 80% during the first battery report. One of three actually has dropped 1%, the other two are steady. The 80% initial reading comes from the sketch which I believe is calibrated for 3.3V as 100%. I tested my CR123s before using them and they all read exactly 3V. They are Lithium (Li-MNO2) but not rechargeable (Lithium Ion). Typically they run around $1-$1.5. I picked up around 50 when RadioShack went belly-up this winter for 5 for $1. They have a very small self discharge rate and 10 year shelf life. Below is a picture of my case lid with a 2-AA holder inserted. Technically it fits, but no room for anything else and the case is hard to close. Also shown is the lid of one of my recently built sensors with the CR123 holder.
@Dwalt Thanks! I think i'll go that way as well.
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@Dwalt Thanks for the pics.
but as I've already invested in over 20 AA battery holders, I'll need to find a new case solution.
I have decided to use a LDR as well. I was planning to use rechargeable AA batteries.
but they are 2.6v total instead of 3v so i guess i'm going to stick with alkaline. -
@Dwalt Thanks for the pics.
but as I've already invested in over 20 AA battery holders, I'll need to find a new case solution.
I have decided to use a LDR as well. I was planning to use rechargeable AA batteries.
but they are 2.6v total instead of 3v so i guess i'm going to stick with alkaline.@mvader These are perfect for 2aa powered sensors although slightly ominous http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dummy-Security-Camera-CCTV-Home-Dome-Camera-With-Red-Flashing-Light-Woshida/32317143038.html?spm=2114.32010308.4.11.8z1AAX
they are basically empty. for 2.5$ you get a case, a battery holder and a clear dome.... Even a switch!!!! Best deal in the world.
