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  3. Recommendation: power supply

Recommendation: power supply

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  • dakkyD Offline
    dakkyD Offline
    dakky
    wrote on last edited by
    #1

    Hello

    can you recommend a power supply for powering actuator nodes?
    Should be

    • as small as possible
    • cheap
    • (of course) safe :D

    Any hints?

    Controller: Raspberry Pi 2 :: Openhab2 :: with @TimO MySensors Binding
    Gateway: Arduino MEGA 2560 R3 :: W5100 :: Ethernet GW

    Software: MySensors 2.0development

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    • dakkyD Offline
      dakkyD Offline
      dakky
      wrote on last edited by
      #2

      This one look fine?

      Any guess concerning the safety?

      Controller: Raspberry Pi 2 :: Openhab2 :: with @TimO MySensors Binding
      Gateway: Arduino MEGA 2560 R3 :: W5100 :: Ethernet GW

      Software: MySensors 2.0development

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      • sundberg84S Offline
        sundberg84S Offline
        sundberg84
        Hardware Contributor
        wrote on last edited by
        #3

        Hi @dakky.

        What kind of power supply are you looking for?
        Here is a great discussion: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers
        You should also be able to use a phone charger as power supply. You will get 5v and if you use a original phonecharger they have all the safety test/checks (CE for example).

        Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
        RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

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        • dakkyD Offline
          dakkyD Offline
          dakky
          wrote on last edited by
          #4

          Greetings @sundberg84

          I'm looking for a "non-in-wall" solution to power an pro mini / bare atmega.
          At the moment i want to build a simple button-relay. Of course i could by any phone charger, but they cost about +- 10€. And i don't have soo many spare chargers lying around at home :P
          The size is important for me, because my wife would kill me, if i put medium sized packages near everthing i want to switch on/off :D

          i'm already following the thread u mentioned, but i have to admin: my understanding in these topics is not very deep :D

          Controller: Raspberry Pi 2 :: Openhab2 :: with @TimO MySensors Binding
          Gateway: Arduino MEGA 2560 R3 :: W5100 :: Ethernet GW

          Software: MySensors 2.0development

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          • sundberg84S Offline
            sundberg84S Offline
            sundberg84
            Hardware Contributor
            wrote on last edited by
            #5

            Ok, have you seen petewills relay thread: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/775/8-lamp-outlet-smart-plug-module ?
            There are some examples how to power as well... I hear you about that wife thing... they dont like big plugs for some reason :)

            Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
            MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
            MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
            RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

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            • D Offline
              D Offline
              Denke
              Hardware Contributor
              wrote on last edited by
              #6

              have you had a look at transformer less designs? One capacitor some zener diodes and a rectifier bridge
              You need to know what you are doing, but if all is in the same box then i think it is safe. The design can give you around 25mA. I will use it myself for a 2 channel dimmer project that I am working on.

              If you rip apart a Nexa Switch box or similar you will find this designs in there.
              http://www.jula.se/catalog/el-och-belysning/elinstallation/plug-in-produkter/fjarrstrombrytare/fjarrdimmer-408053/
              or
              http://www.jula.se/catalog/el-och-belysning/elinstallation/plug-in-produkter/fjarrstrombrytare/dimbar-fjarrstrombrytare-408051/
              Also LED light bulbs seems to use this principle

              But you have to read up if this is something that suits your need.

              Also dont connect your computer to the programming port at the same time as it is powered on.

              RaspberryPi-Openhab

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              • T Offline
                T Offline
                ToniA
                wrote on last edited by
                #7

                I've been using Nokia phone chargers (ones with the USB type A connector, so that I could use any USB cable on them, like USB mini on the other end for Arduino Nano).

                But how about powering the SenseBender? Do you guys have any good recommendations for a similar, small, sleek design wall outlet power adapter? Or should I use a low-dropout 5V to 3.3V regulator with some capacitor? Would be nice if there was a USB micro -powered version of the Sensebender...

                DwaltD 1 Reply Last reply
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                • T ToniA

                  I've been using Nokia phone chargers (ones with the USB type A connector, so that I could use any USB cable on them, like USB mini on the other end for Arduino Nano).

                  But how about powering the SenseBender? Do you guys have any good recommendations for a similar, small, sleek design wall outlet power adapter? Or should I use a low-dropout 5V to 3.3V regulator with some capacitor? Would be nice if there was a USB micro -powered version of the Sensebender...

                  DwaltD Offline
                  DwaltD Offline
                  Dwalt
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #8

                  @ToniA The Sensebender was designed with battery power in mind. I have several with attached PIR and LDR running near to 7 months off a single CR123 and they all report battery near 90%. Powering off AC would be possible with addition of voltage regulator but would be a waste of a beautiful low powered design.

                  Veralite UI5 :: IBoard Ethernet GW :: MyS 1.5

                  T 1 Reply Last reply
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                  • D Offline
                    D Offline
                    dakipro
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #9

                    @Denke I was also trying to reuse power from similar Nexa Switch box to power an arduino pro mini node, but it seems that there is just not enough power for arduino in there. I purchased 4 different similar plugs (some with remote and some with timer) in order to find one that can power up the arduino mini, but none of them does it. One timed power switch from Clas Ohlson gets it up and running but when the node starts sending the radio then all LEDs on the mini fade and device reboots.
                    Did you manage to reuse some of the Switch boxes in order to power up the arduino with mysensors?
                    It would be much cheaper to just take out the guts from some Nexa Switch and put mysensors node inside, and then have two-way communication and all the MySensors benefits.

                    C: OpenHAB2 with node-red on linux laptop
                    GW: Arduino Nano - W5100 Ethernet, Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz mqtt
                    GW: Arduino Mega, RFLink 433Mhz

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                    • DwaltD Dwalt

                      @ToniA The Sensebender was designed with battery power in mind. I have several with attached PIR and LDR running near to 7 months off a single CR123 and they all report battery near 90%. Powering off AC would be possible with addition of voltage regulator but would be a waste of a beautiful low powered design.

                      T Offline
                      T Offline
                      ToniA
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #10

                      @Dwalt But if the idea is to run some actuator (like relay) on it, it must be on all the time.

                      DwaltD 1 Reply Last reply
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                      • mfalkviddM Offline
                        mfalkviddM Offline
                        mfalkvidd
                        Mod
                        wrote on last edited by mfalkvidd
                        #11

                        Creating one design that is useful for battery and mains power would lead to a design that't half-good at both.

                        Lots of discussion was put into making the sensebender good for battery-powered sensors. There are some hardware designs for mains power as well, for example the in-wall pcb that aims to create a design that doesn't need cooling.

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                        • T ToniA

                          @Dwalt But if the idea is to run some actuator (like relay) on it, it must be on all the time.

                          DwaltD Offline
                          DwaltD Offline
                          Dwalt
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #12

                          @ToniA This thread is veering off topic but to clarify my comment, powering the Sensebender off of mains runs contrary to the design of the board. For your example, this board would be a more efficient design - a compact relay board designed for mains powering, ~$9.50 US. It still requires a 5V power supply 😉 .

                          Veralite UI5 :: IBoard Ethernet GW :: MyS 1.5

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                          • T Offline
                            T Offline
                            ToniA
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #13

                            What I'm after is a (physically) small device acting as an actuator ('always on'), to send IR codes. So, I need to be able to send IR using 38 kHz PWM frequency, and I need to have it externally powered as it's an actuator. And 5V is easily available. The mini rboard would be perfect for a relay, thanks for the tip :)

                            So, would the SenseBender + radio run fine, if I power it from a cell phone USB charger using a 'LE33ACZ 5V-3.3V Step Down Regulator' (I already have these, SenseBender is on its way). Do I need to use some capacitors?

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