AC Power and/or Relay interface
-
@rozpruwacz said in AC Power and/or Relay interface:
@exilit said in AC Power and/or Relay interface:
Recom RAC03
oh, You are talking about this ?
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/recom-power/RAC03-05SCR-277/945-1702-ND/3844914if so then yes this is exactly what I mean and actualy this item looks very good :) about the price I believe that maybe you could find something half the price but not less ...
Yes, that is what I was talking about. Half the price sounds good.
But to be honest, I think the one you posted suits it better. The Recom power supply's use cases seem to be the same as the HLK module.@exilit the one i posted is much bigger and 12v, so You need buck converter. This makes it harder to fit atmega board, but maybe You will :). for sure there is more 12v flush mounted power supplies and they are cheaper because they are used for led lighting. The cheaper ones will propably draw more power, they will be powered 24/7 so it is important that they draw at lest less than 0.5W.
-
@gohan There is no problem. I like the devices very much, but I'd like to have something not WiFi based for that purpose.
Why Z-Wave? Do you know a Z-Wave device, that serves low voltage output and is externally controllable?
-
@Black-Cat Ideally 5V or 3.3V. But in the end it doesn't matter too much, as converting it down wouldn't be too difficult. Do you know something?
-
@exilit For Z-Wave control the only device I am aware of that uses those voltages is a Z-UNO. You would need to build your own controller but it's not difficult.
-
@exilit For Z-Wave control the only device I am aware of that uses those voltages is a Z-UNO. You would need to build your own controller but it's not difficult.
-
@Black-Cat I'm a little bit confused. This does not address my issue, does it?
@gohan the smallest PS that I know of that is enclosed is 62.55128mm (LWH)
available in 3.3v, 5v DC
https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/rs-15
There should be local distributors in the required region.
If the OP can do without an enclosed PS then there are smaller such as
this step down shield.
https://www.blackcatcontrolsystems.com.au/Chargers-Power Supplies-Connectors/Transformers/AC-DC Supply-240vAC-5VDCThere are many different relay's on the market, googling will turn up something that fits the requirement.
Sorry about the Z-Wave confusion.
-
-
@gohan the smallest PS that I know of that is enclosed is 62.55128mm (LWH)
available in 3.3v, 5v DC
https://www.meanwellaustralia.com.au/products/rs-15
There should be local distributors in the required region.
If the OP can do without an enclosed PS then there are smaller such as
this step down shield.
https://www.blackcatcontrolsystems.com.au/Chargers-Power Supplies-Connectors/Transformers/AC-DC Supply-240vAC-5VDCThere are many different relay's on the market, googling will turn up something that fits the requirement.
Sorry about the Z-Wave confusion.
@Black-Cat said in AC Power and/or Relay interface:
If the OP can do without an enclosed PS
I can do, but I am specifically looking for something that simplifies (in a sense of "assurance-safety") the whole High Voltage side. The products posted by you are really nice, but unfortunately do not address my request. :-)
Like I said before, I am aware, that the product I am searching for might not yet exist. (wondering why :confused: ) But maybe somebody has seen something like that.
-
@Black-Cat said in AC Power and/or Relay interface:
If the OP can do without an enclosed PS
I can do, but I am specifically looking for something that simplifies (in a sense of "assurance-safety") the whole High Voltage side. The products posted by you are really nice, but unfortunately do not address my request. :-)
Like I said before, I am aware, that the product I am searching for might not yet exist. (wondering why :confused: ) But maybe somebody has seen something like that.
@exilit said in AC Power and/or Relay interface:
(wondering why )
I'd say because they don't want people mess with the product so they usually sell product with their own SW solution. It is like rooting a mobile phone, in case of problems you are out of warranty and in case something happens they are out of liability
-
@exilit said in AC Power and/or Relay interface:
(wondering why )
I'd say because they don't want people mess with the product so they usually sell product with their own SW solution. It is like rooting a mobile phone, in case of problems you are out of warranty and in case something happens they are out of liability
@gohan Well, for most companies you are probably right. But have a look at ITEAD with their Sonoff products... They are already quite open and also seem not to do a lot against people tinkering with it. They sell good products which are adoptable if needed/wanted. And people obviously like it and large communities originate from that which create even better products.
So I think there is a market for those products.That's what I mean, I'd like to see products where I don't have to void the warranty because I don't need to open it.
I imagine something like the following:
I think that would be awesome.
-
@gohan Well, for most companies you are probably right. But have a look at ITEAD with their Sonoff products... They are already quite open and also seem not to do a lot against people tinkering with it. They sell good products which are adoptable if needed/wanted. And people obviously like it and large communities originate from that which create even better products.
So I think there is a market for those products.That's what I mean, I'd like to see products where I don't have to void the warranty because I don't need to open it.
I imagine something like the following:
I think that would be awesome.
-
So I did this recently, I have two ESP8266 Wemos based switches and 2 MySensors based in production right now with more MySensors on the way. They encompass the following from AliExpress:
Arduino Pro Mini & NRF24L01
220/110V to 5V Transformer - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Smart-Electronics-5V700mA-3-5W-Isolated-Switch-Power-Supply-Module-AC-DC-Buck-Step-down-Module/32529802796.html
WS2812B Single LED - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-100-pcs-WS2812B-LED-Individually-addressable-WS2811-IC-rgb-white-black-2812b-led-heatsink-10mm/32378187271.html
2 Small Tactile Buttons - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-Tactile-Switch-Push-Button-Tactile-Pushbutton-4pin-DIP-6-6-10mm-for-LCD-Screen-Monitor/32693091694.html
Relay - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-10Pcs-5V-Low-Level-Trigger-One-1-Channel-Relay-Module-Interface-Board-Shield-for/32676400147.html
Dupont cables to make the switch and box separate. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-Dupont-line-120pcs-20cm-male-to-male-male-to-female-and-female-to-female/32343840673.html3D Printed Switch and Rear Box
I created a switch and the box that goes in the wall in TinkerCAD. On the switch side, there is a little WS2812B led which i use to show states, and a little startup sequence to know its up and connected to the MySensors gateway. There are two buttons both behind the switch, one is pressed by the switch itself, the other is a reset switch which connects ground to the reset pin. This is in case it needs to be reset or something. I did this 2 piece approach for being able to take off the wallplate, pull out the switch, connect up the FTDI adapter and upload new code in the case of the MySensors nodes. For the ESP8266, those are OTA.
I am printing the latest version of the box and switch now, I will upload pics when they are done.
Here is the one in my garage, white means light is off (so you can find it in the dark), green is on. There is a red light coming from behind the switch which is the relay light, I dont care much in the garage so you can see it. On the inside ones, I used a small piece of heat shrink to cover it. Also, the pictures just do not do it justice at all, the light blurs out the camera and you cannot see the switch very well nor the power icon behind the LED.
-
@exilit also ITEAD has a warranty sticker that you need to break if you want to reflash the relay. Could be a good idea what you proposed, maybe you can start a kickstarter campaign :D
-
So I did this recently, I have two ESP8266 Wemos based switches and 2 MySensors based in production right now with more MySensors on the way. They encompass the following from AliExpress:
Arduino Pro Mini & NRF24L01
220/110V to 5V Transformer - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Smart-Electronics-5V700mA-3-5W-Isolated-Switch-Power-Supply-Module-AC-DC-Buck-Step-down-Module/32529802796.html
WS2812B Single LED - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-100-pcs-WS2812B-LED-Individually-addressable-WS2811-IC-rgb-white-black-2812b-led-heatsink-10mm/32378187271.html
2 Small Tactile Buttons - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-Tactile-Switch-Push-Button-Tactile-Pushbutton-4pin-DIP-6-6-10mm-for-LCD-Screen-Monitor/32693091694.html
Relay - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-10Pcs-5V-Low-Level-Trigger-One-1-Channel-Relay-Module-Interface-Board-Shield-for/32676400147.html
Dupont cables to make the switch and box separate. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-Dupont-line-120pcs-20cm-male-to-male-male-to-female-and-female-to-female/32343840673.html3D Printed Switch and Rear Box
I created a switch and the box that goes in the wall in TinkerCAD. On the switch side, there is a little WS2812B led which i use to show states, and a little startup sequence to know its up and connected to the MySensors gateway. There are two buttons both behind the switch, one is pressed by the switch itself, the other is a reset switch which connects ground to the reset pin. This is in case it needs to be reset or something. I did this 2 piece approach for being able to take off the wallplate, pull out the switch, connect up the FTDI adapter and upload new code in the case of the MySensors nodes. For the ESP8266, those are OTA.
I am printing the latest version of the box and switch now, I will upload pics when they are done.
Here is the one in my garage, white means light is off (so you can find it in the dark), green is on. There is a red light coming from behind the switch which is the relay light, I dont care much in the garage so you can see it. On the inside ones, I used a small piece of heat shrink to cover it. Also, the pictures just do not do it justice at all, the light blurs out the camera and you cannot see the switch very well nor the power icon behind the LED.
@Brian-Morris Great project, looks good. But I think also not what I am looking for.
-
Np. I saw the "I am looking for a way to put an MySensors Relay actuator behind a wall switch." description. My project is a switch and relay in 1. Are you talking about just putting a MySensors node with a relay behind a working normal light switch?
-
Adding the imgur album. https://imgur.com/a/XNz79
-
Np. I saw the "I am looking for a way to put an MySensors Relay actuator behind a wall switch." description. My project is a switch and relay in 1. Are you talking about just putting a MySensors node with a relay behind a working normal light switch?
@Brian-Morris i Think wat i am really looking for is a tinkering-friendly Device that can deliver some low voltage power as well as a possibility to switch higher voltage devices.
The point is that - as far as I know - tinkering with low voltage is uncritical (with respect to assurances and power providers) but everything related to mains power needs to be certified and/or should only be installed by people qualified to do so. So what I would like to see is a device that can be controlled easily and at the same time is safe to use.
-
@Brian-Morris i Think wat i am really looking for is a tinkering-friendly Device that can deliver some low voltage power as well as a possibility to switch higher voltage devices.
The point is that - as far as I know - tinkering with low voltage is uncritical (with respect to assurances and power providers) but everything related to mains power needs to be certified and/or should only be installed by people qualified to do so. So what I would like to see is a device that can be controlled easily and at the same time is safe to use.
@exilit said in AC Power and/or Relay interface:
@Brian-Morris i Think wat i am really looking for is a tinkering-friendly Device that can deliver some low voltage power as well as a possibility to switch higher voltage devices.
The point is that - as far as I know - tinkering with low voltage is uncritical (with respect to assurances and power providers) but everything related to mains power needs to be certified and/or should only be installed by people qualified to do so. So what I would like to see is a device that can be controlled easily and at the same time is safe to use.
LV is a voltage above 110VAC or 50VDC, this is the critical test.
Below 110VAC or 50VDC it is ELV and does not require the mandatory testing.
For a device as suggested to be made, it would need to undergo testing, then further reporting and certification in many different world wide regions before it could be sold on the market.
It is a very expensive and time consuming effort (been there and done that)-I doubt that any money could be made on developing a device such as this (it's still a good idea, don't get me wrong, but I doubt it has a commercial application otherwise it would have been made.)
The least expensive way of controlling Line Voltages remotely that I would use is to use a Z-Wave device. Depending on the region you are located this will cost you between 40-maybe 85 local currency units. Use OpenHab as your controller software then you have control from your sensors and Z-wave control of your Power relays.
Problem solved.
