Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors
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@dbemowsk @sincze - its a good idea with a proto board or you can build something and add as an shield on the MysX connector... I would also suggest you run a seperate power regulator for the sensors... atleast do some calculactions before adding them in because LE33 can handle maximum of 0.2A i think.
@sundberg84 Couldn't think of the name of the MysX connector when I did that post, but that's what I was talking about putting the header on to connect to the proto-board. Mainly to act as a proto-shield. I would agree to run the sensors from a separate regulator. If he plugs it into the MysX connector he should have access to RAW power if he jumpers the pads next to the MysX connector, and then he may be able to make use of at least one of his LM1117 regulators on his shield, provided that he runs the sensors from 3.3V. I am assuming that his LM1117's are 3.3V regulators and not the 5V versions.
Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/ -
@sundberg84 Couldn't think of the name of the MysX connector when I did that post, but that's what I was talking about putting the header on to connect to the proto-board. Mainly to act as a proto-shield. I would agree to run the sensors from a separate regulator. If he plugs it into the MysX connector he should have access to RAW power if he jumpers the pads next to the MysX connector, and then he may be able to make use of at least one of his LM1117 regulators on his shield, provided that he runs the sensors from 3.3V. I am assuming that his LM1117's are 3.3V regulators and not the 5V versions.
@dbemowsk Got in stock 2 types of LM1117 the 3,3v and 5v. In any case the relais need 5v, the temp sensor as well. So If I read RAW in your answer that triggers me to watch out. ;-) I'll start soldering some pins and measure the voltage. as @sundberg84 said.. "all you can do is test and learn !! hehehe. Part of the Mysensors fun. And ofcourse this forum provides me with experienced feedback.
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@dbemowsk Got in stock 2 types of LM1117 the 3,3v and 5v. In any case the relais need 5v, the temp sensor as well. So If I read RAW in your answer that triggers me to watch out. ;-) I'll start soldering some pins and measure the voltage. as @sundberg84 said.. "all you can do is test and learn !! hehehe. Part of the Mysensors fun. And ofcourse this forum provides me with experienced feedback.
So this is where the project is at. Using regulated 5V.
Still missing the 0,1u capacitor, but it is on its way,
The voltage divider is working fine 5v -> 3,3v.
Maybe I am missing some(connection)thing as I don't have 3,3v at the Antenna 3,3/GND connector. Did I miss something as I am not a PCB expert, sorry. -
So this is where the project is at. Using regulated 5V.
Still missing the 0,1u capacitor, but it is on its way,
The voltage divider is working fine 5v -> 3,3v.
Maybe I am missing some(connection)thing as I don't have 3,3v at the Antenna 3,3/GND connector. Did I miss something as I am not a PCB expert, sorry.I don't have 3,3v at the Antenna 3,3/GND connector
If you measure these points, what do you have?
- plus (left pin) on blue screw terminal (should be 5v)
- reg jumper (should be 5v)
- Vin voltage reg (should be 5v)
- Vout Voltage reg (should be 3.3v)
You should be able to follow the trace from Vout to VCC(radio) with your eye.
You can do a continuity test from Vout to VCC (radio) and GND(radio) to GND(screw terminal) to comfirm connectiom.What kind of voltage regulator do you have? Did you check the pinout matched vin/vout/gnd ?
Still missing the 0,1u capacitor, but it is on its way,
No rush, this supports the voltage reg but unless you do some heavy things you will do without.
Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz -
I don't have 3,3v at the Antenna 3,3/GND connector
If you measure these points, what do you have?
- plus (left pin) on blue screw terminal (should be 5v)
- reg jumper (should be 5v)
- Vin voltage reg (should be 5v)
- Vout Voltage reg (should be 3.3v)
You should be able to follow the trace from Vout to VCC(radio) with your eye.
You can do a continuity test from Vout to VCC (radio) and GND(radio) to GND(screw terminal) to comfirm connectiom.What kind of voltage regulator do you have? Did you check the pinout matched vin/vout/gnd ?
Still missing the 0,1u capacitor, but it is on its way,
No rush, this supports the voltage reg but unless you do some heavy things you will do without.
@sundberg84 I did measure the following:
plus (left pin) on blue screw terminal (should be 5v), is 4,96 V
Vin voltage reg (should be 5v), is 4,96
Vout Voltage reg (should be 3.3v), is 3,3 -
@sundberg84 I did measure the following:
plus (left pin) on blue screw terminal (should be 5v), is 4,96 V
Vin voltage reg (should be 5v), is 4,96
Vout Voltage reg (should be 3.3v), is 3,3@sincze but still 0v at radio VCC?
Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz -
@sincze but still 0v at radio VCC?
@sundberg84 unfortunately yes. However.
You can do a continuity test from Vout to VCC (radio) , (We have no beep for continuity)
and
GND(radio) to GND(screw terminal) to comfirm connectiom. (We have a beep for contiuity) -
@sundberg84 unfortunately yes. However.
You can do a continuity test from Vout to VCC (radio) , (We have no beep for continuity)
and
GND(radio) to GND(screw terminal) to comfirm connectiom. (We have a beep for contiuity)@sincze if this is so you have a broken pcb trace (first time I ever heard of) do you need to replace the trace with a wire.
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@sundberg84 unfortunately yes. However.
You can do a continuity test from Vout to VCC (radio) , (We have no beep for continuity)
and
GND(radio) to GND(screw terminal) to comfirm connectiom. (We have a beep for contiuity)@sincze or a bad solder joint...
Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz -
@sincze or a bad solder joint...
@sundberg84 as I am not a soldering king... we will check the work and report back...... applied a bit more solder to the vout and we have beep ;-) now let's continue the work.
Wow, 3,3 and 3,29v on the antenna. tnx. -
@sundberg84 as I am not a soldering king... we will check the work and report back...... applied a bit more solder to the vout and we have beep ;-) now let's continue the work.
Wow, 3,3 and 3,29v on the antenna. tnx.@sincze no worries. Good luck.
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Hi,
I‘m new to MySensors and the Newbie PCB. At the weekend I build my first sensor but I had one Problem. I want to use battery powered sensors so I’m using the 3.3V battery booster. I’m have connected/soltered everything and the Arduino was runing fine. But the NRF24-Module wasn’t working. I cheked it and there was no voltage at the Vcc pin of the NRF24. Then I found out, the NRF24 is only powered if the battery jumper is closed. If the battery jumper is opened there is not voltage at the NRF24 module and also not at the 3.3 pin of the MysX pin out. Ist this correct?I thought the NRF24 is powered by the battery booster by default. Or did I get it wrong? -
Hi,
I‘m new to MySensors and the Newbie PCB. At the weekend I build my first sensor but I had one Problem. I want to use battery powered sensors so I’m using the 3.3V battery booster. I’m have connected/soltered everything and the Arduino was runing fine. But the NRF24-Module wasn’t working. I cheked it and there was no voltage at the Vcc pin of the NRF24. Then I found out, the NRF24 is only powered if the battery jumper is closed. If the battery jumper is opened there is not voltage at the NRF24 module and also not at the 3.3 pin of the MysX pin out. Ist this correct?I thought the NRF24 is powered by the battery booster by default. Or did I get it wrong? -
@sincze no worries. Good luck.
@sundberg84 tnx.
I looked at the FAQ and could not find an explaination how to use the pins TX/RX.The following is now on my build list, but maybe if I can use TX/RX pins it will free something...
- LED RX=A05
- LED TX=D02
- Relay_1=A00
- Relay_2=A01
- Relay_3=A04
- Temp_D03 (total of 4, resistor currently already soldered into the wire)
- Door_Switch=D05
- Leakage_Switch=D06
I tested the sketch on a Arduino Nano and it is working, now I need to convert everything to the Easy/Newbie PCB. ;-)
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@SolderNewbie of course you need to close that jumper since you are using batteries.
@gohan
But i want to power the NRF24 with the battery booster and not directly with the batteries. Is this possible? The NRF24 modules is working with 1.9V than i have to replace the batteries. But with the battery booster i can drain the batteries down to 0.4 V each! -
I think I did once a little mod for that case: I shorted Vin and Vout where the radio voltage regulator would be.
PS but I shorted REG and not BAT
@gohan Thanks for this hint!
I put a jumper into Vo and Vi of the voltage regulator pins and shorten it, that's all! Not needed to shorten REG or BAT jumper! The Vi pin is connected to the Vo of the battery booster and the Vo of the voltage regulator pin is connected to Vcc of the NRF24 module.Maybe an idea for rev 10? Battery booster powered NRF24 module?
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@gohan Thanks for this hint!
I put a jumper into Vo and Vi of the voltage regulator pins and shorten it, that's all! Not needed to shorten REG or BAT jumper! The Vi pin is connected to the Vo of the battery booster and the Vo of the voltage regulator pin is connected to Vcc of the NRF24 module.Maybe an idea for rev 10? Battery booster powered NRF24 module?
If the battery jumper is opened there is not voltage at the NRF24 module and also not at the 3.3 pin of the MysX pin out. Ist this correct?I thought the NRF24 is powered by the battery booster by default. Or did I get it wrong?
This is correct because you dont want to feed 3.3v from the booster to the radio. The radio is very sensitive to noise (which will be the case with the booster) and since the radio can handle down to 1.9v the pcb is used like the description How?>Battery 3.3v @ https://www.openhardware.io/view/4/EasyNewbie-PCB-for-MySensors. This will feed the vattery voltage only (not from Booster) and therefore not give noise to the radio.
As mentioned above by @gohan its possible but not recommended... unless you got some really good modules you will end up with a 2m range on your radio (or no connection at all)
Maybe an idea for rev 10? Battery booster powered NRF24 module?
This is why Rev 1 and 2 never made it... I have been trying this out since 2014 and it just doesnt work. You might get lucky with 1 or 2 modules that works (or pay alot for low noise boosters which isnt my thought with EasyPCB).
I would instead suggest lowering BOD and/or change bootloader.
Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz -
@sundberg84 tnx.
I looked at the FAQ and could not find an explaination how to use the pins TX/RX.The following is now on my build list, but maybe if I can use TX/RX pins it will free something...
- LED RX=A05
- LED TX=D02
- Relay_1=A00
- Relay_2=A01
- Relay_3=A04
- Temp_D03 (total of 4, resistor currently already soldered into the wire)
- Door_Switch=D05
- Leakage_Switch=D06
I tested the sketch on a Arduino Nano and it is working, now I need to convert everything to the Easy/Newbie PCB. ;-)
use the pins TX/RX
what do you mean? You can find the pins on the MysX connector (bottom left on the PCB). Instructions on how to use the pins isnt my cup of tea. You need to google that or you have to look at the arduino homepage.
There isnt anything to convert from nano to EasyPCB (except to find the right pins). The sketch will work just fine as it is.
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If the battery jumper is opened there is not voltage at the NRF24 module and also not at the 3.3 pin of the MysX pin out. Ist this correct?I thought the NRF24 is powered by the battery booster by default. Or did I get it wrong?
This is correct because you dont want to feed 3.3v from the booster to the radio. The radio is very sensitive to noise (which will be the case with the booster) and since the radio can handle down to 1.9v the pcb is used like the description How?>Battery 3.3v @ https://www.openhardware.io/view/4/EasyNewbie-PCB-for-MySensors. This will feed the vattery voltage only (not from Booster) and therefore not give noise to the radio.
As mentioned above by @gohan its possible but not recommended... unless you got some really good modules you will end up with a 2m range on your radio (or no connection at all)
Maybe an idea for rev 10? Battery booster powered NRF24 module?
This is why Rev 1 and 2 never made it... I have been trying this out since 2014 and it just doesnt work. You might get lucky with 1 or 2 modules that works (or pay alot for low noise boosters which isnt my thought with EasyPCB).
I would instead suggest lowering BOD and/or change bootloader.
