Of course you could use rpi as gateway, but as personal advice I'd suggest to get some mini pro as sensor nodes and keep the Uno as the gateway or the prototype platform. The most flexible solution would be to make an mqtt ethernet gateway and use rpi as mqtt broker and controller with openhab or whatever else you like, since the mqtt in the middle allows also to have multiple controllers. I also wanted to try openhab and tried openhabian but it turned out to be too complicated, so I moved to domoticz and it was much easier to put things together.
@รอเร-อ btw Normal single phase type 2 charging on an EV is 32a = 7 Kw. If your ev can charge at 22Kw, then it will need a 3 phase supply. OpenEVSE can do this but you will need to put a 3 phase contactor in it.
Today I finished to fix failed soldering (too old solder paste made a mess ) on the "motherboard" of my air quality sensor.
It's based on ESP32, uses a charging IC with power path so it can run on batteries for around a day or stay plugged without destroying the battery, step down from USB/battery to get VCC, storage on I2C EEPROM, flash and/or µSD card (depending on use case), one SK6812 mini RGB led as indicator, a small 240*240 IPS LCD (backlight driven directly by ESP32 pin in high drive capability mode), a 3 way switch for basic user interface + footprint for PAJ7620 gesture recognition module, accelerometer and I2C IO expander to manage the 3 way switch and interrupts from sensor modules.
Sensor modules will be added on top, connected using an FPC connector. At the moment I made only one sensor PCB able to manage usual PM, CO2 and formaldehyde sensors. Only one sensor per sensor board where an attiny841 manages the UART sensor and convert it to I2C, it also manages the 5V step up to power the sensor.
On the main board I also added an NRF24 footprint so with the same PCB I will be able to make a gateway with integrated battery backup.
I'm pretty happy with the relatively well aligned components (no, I don't have OCD ) , too bad I had to unsolder, clean and re-solder each component as it now looks botched up. But at least everything (except a missing connection on µSD card, hence the blue wire) is working,
LCD test showing jpgs from SD card
@timmy If you are referring to the Google assistant, you need to open the app, tap the compass icon in the Explore section, enter Settings, scroll to Services, tap Home Control, and scroll until you find the selection for your lights. But I'm not even sure what you are talking about, I might be giving you the wrong directions here.
If you look at the datasheet is says, depending on the bin, between 17 and 18 lm max output. At max power of 110 mW that is 17.5/0.110 or 159 lm/w. I haven't looked for comparisons but I suspect that is typical of most modern LEDs. Keep in mind that, for commercial LED bulbs, there is power converter efficiency that has to be factored into the efficacy and they still achieve > 100 lm/W with pretty average LEDs.