Of course you could use rpi as gateway, but as personal advice I'd suggest to get some mini pro as sensor nodes and keep the Uno as the gateway or the prototype platform. The most flexible solution would be to make an mqtt ethernet gateway and use rpi as mqtt broker and controller with openhab or whatever else you like, since the mqtt in the middle allows also to have multiple controllers. I also wanted to try openhab and tried openhabian but it turned out to be too complicated, so I moved to domoticz and it was much easier to put things together.
Thanks a lot for the quick response.
I now have my Nano running as a serial gateway and it is connected via a USB cable directly to my controller (Raspberry Pi 4 running Home Assistant / Hass.io).
I added a local motion sensor to the Nano gateway HW and pasted the mysensors MotionSensor example code to the setup(), presentation() and loop() functions as well as to the definitions in the top of the GatewaySerial example code.
I disabled the radio definitions as I currently have no radio capability in my gateway (not sure if this was necessary).
In Home Assistant / Hass.io I updated the configuration.yaml with the following text (as described on the Home Assistant integration help):
- device: '/dev/ttyUSB0'
And it works
In Home Assistant Developer Tools under States I can now see my motion sensor go on and off by the flick of my hand.
I had expected a bit more bumps on the road just to get this far, but wow - I am obviously walking in the foot prints of people who have worked hard to make it easy for the rest of us.
I am sure I will hit bumps on the way when the radios have to send results to the gateway (thick concrete walls with lots of steel), but for now I will enjoy this big success.
Thanks again Boots33
Here in DK, we started with closing down all public schools, and educational institutions 2 weeks ago. For my part, I have been working at my home office for the last 2½ weeks.
The government is taking a more and more strict approach to the current situation, limiting the freedom of movement, the latest is that (unless you'r a family living together) you are only allowed to be 2 persons in the same area (taking a walk etc.). And the schools etc. are closed at least until 14th of april (after the Easter holidays in denmark)
Luckily I live in the countryside, so we have lot's of space around us, with forrests etc. So we can get out in the fresh spring air, almost without meeting other people, or if we do meet other people, we can keep a safety distance of 2m. This also means that our local grocery store is not overly crowded with people, when we do shopping, as opposed to the shops in bigger cities.
As a kind of bonus, I get the opportunity to order some gadgets for my home office, now that I work full time here. "But honey, this thing will unclutter my desktop / make it easier for me to switch between work and hobby".."
@NeverDie Nah, I'm fine. It's always helpful to get opinions and views from others, especially if they are more experienced in the matter, if only to set one's own viewpoint straight. I'm grateful for all you guys replies, but I don't feel like bothering Microchip with this.
Regarding Nordic - besides the circulating copies / clones (like the SI24R1), I guess it's also not helping that they are fabless, unlike Atmel / Microchip, in which case it seems totally reasonable that the various fabs may have slight marking variations. I just didn't expect that from those ATmegas which seem to have been produced in one and the same factory.
But it's certainly a neat touch from Nordic to offer a free test.
Closing the loop, I finally found the information I was looking for: "Also note from Figure 17 that — if the flashes are separated by at least 20mS — the brain ‘sees’ the individual flashes at full brilliance if they have a duration of 10mS or greater, but sees them at diminishing brilliance at durations below 10mS (a 2mS flash appears at roughly 1/5th of true brilliance; the perceived brilliance falls off rapidly at durations below 1mS). The perceived duration of a 20mS flash (30mS) is only 50% greater than that of a 10mS flash (20mS)." https://www.nutsvolts.com/magazine/article/practical-led-indicator-and-flasher-circuits
I got tired of twisting DuPont cabels to get from different programmers to different boards.
This is an adapter that lets me connect the programmers I commonly use (Jlink-mini, BMP, STLink clone) with the boards I commonly program with straight through wires. I left a couple unpopulated for future in and out.