Hi @wackowizzard. Welcome to the MySensors site.
Take a look at some of the projects on OpenHardware.io https://www.openhardware.io/explore It will give you many examples of different sensor projects. Most projects just do one thing. Temperature and Humidity or motion are the most common. A few do use many of the sensors you want. See Berk's https://www.openhardware.io/view/8259/Air-quality-and-weather-forecast-sensor for example.
The MySensors framework is supported by Home Assistant.
Battery or wire power will depend mostly on the power consumption of you sensors. Many can be quite low power and run for years on batteries. This is common topic of discussion in the forums.
If you read through the "Getting Started" and "Build" sections on the MySensors site, you will get a lot of information and ideas about how to build the sensor you described.
@zebmina I am about to purchase ~30 433mhz controlled blinds that are normally controlled with a 15 channel remote - I think these are made by several Chinese manufacturers but all use Dooya style remote control. The manual says you must pair each blind to its own channel, and then there is an "all" control. How do you have 10 "zones"? Do 10 remotes each output a different signal, so you can have 10 "all" groups? Or can you pair multiple motors to one channel using one remote?
First of all I am a basic diy person so not much experience with electronics other than basic relays, some soldering and basic use of multi-meter.
I have a brk smoke detectors throughout house and would like to trigger house alarm as it is connected to service that notifies me over the phone. I have looked online for information and stumbled on your video that looked similar to my needs but more so with Edward Cheung. Please advise where best to post this message as I think it may not be appropriate on mysensors.org.
Initially I was thinking of using brk relay but it is rated for 120V AC, I am based in europe with 240V AC, I do not need to power anything with AC and I want it to work when the power is down as both smoke detectors and house alarm operate on batteries.
I purchased the breadboard, 1k and 330 ohm resistors and 2 x PC817 4pin optocouplers without checking if my alarm is supporting normally open zones, it has normally closed options 4k7 resistor end of line and 2k2 resistor end of line and basic normally closed (breaking the circuit triggers alarm).
Alarm zone is a 5 v DC circuit.
Any advice on how to get output pins to stay constantly closed and change state when alarm is triggered, should I buy some other optocoupler with 6 pins that has ability to change output contacts when energized or any other approach?
@zebmina did you attach an antenna to both the transmitter and the receiver?
Also, your radios are very close together, so the receiver might saturate (but that would be the next hurdle, first you need to receive something)
I was attracted to the idea of having a wireless hum/temp sensor and so I built this. I prototyped it on a breadboard, and I also soldered it on a PCB. I extended the antenna with a 8.3 cm wire.
But I can't get it to work stable. Sometimes it works for many hours and sometimes only for one hour. And then it just hangs. A reset of the at85 sometimes helps, but most of the times I need to power it off and on again.
I need it to work reliably for several weeks. Any suggestions ?