@yveaux said in Ikea Molgan Hack:
@magpern the instructions on openhardware.io state that the Molgan must be battery powered while programming:
Well, then I can confirm that you don't have to power the Molgan from batteries just for programming. Burning the bootloader works fine with just power from the ISP port and programming it through FTDI works fine if power comes from the FTDI.
What I found wierd is that the atmega328 had power, the radio had power, it wrote debug messages to the FTDI - when powered through the FTDI, it send radio messages etc, but it just did not receive messages.
Messages where not received until I supplied power to the + / - pads (battery pads).
I did read the instructions on openhardware.io, but I didn't follow then to the t.
@kimot I am not handling that situation. I'm taking for granted ssr will do his job. Maybe there's some ssr safety topic I'm unaware? Suggestions for a v3.0 are welcome.
About the temperature measuring... I use two sensors. The one in the board protects electronics from temperatures beyond design (60°C). It's near the ssr because the ssr's derating curve is the most limiting condition.
The control sensor is placed in the bottom of the heater. It connects to the board through a 3 pin header connector.
I'm wondering what the minimum input voltage is. The description only says max. 6.5V input voltage from the battery, but does not say what the minimum is. Both the nrf24l01+ as well as the atmega328P work with 3.3V, so if I use three AA batteries, that should be fine, right? I suppose using two AA batteries is not enough?