Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??

[alexsh1]

@sundberg84 Yes it is - sorry I am now talking about this link https://skippy.org.uk/quick-look-at-the-hlk-pm01/

This is the fuse he is using
http://uk.farnell.com/bussmann-by-eaton/c310fc-800-r-tr1/fuse-pcb-0-8a-250vac-fast-act/dp/2464451?selectedCategoryId=&exaMfpn=true&categoryId=&searchRef=SearchLookAhead

This is a fast act 250V 0.8A fuse

[sundberg84]

@alexsh1 - Yea, ok - we have discussed that test above in this thread as well.
As far as I know the HLK is the best so far.

We also have another test where we have got different advice about fuses, (normal/temp) and varistor (see above).
Im accually using a 0,2A fuse for 240V. Read through this post if you are interested - its a great discussion.

[alexsh1]

@sundberg84 I have gone almost through the whole topic. Excellent discussion!

I think the difference is that you are using the slow blow fuse 0.2A and he is using fast acting 0.8A one. I really wonder which one would be more safe. I know slow blow fuses are used with inductive load (like motors), but not sure about this application.

I know it has been mentioned here as well, but did you make any provision for a thermal SEFUSE (say, 73C) or do you think it would be too much?

[m26872]

Let's hope skippy.org.uk also will recommend some good EMC line filters for the HLK-PM01 soon.

[m26872]

And about that cheap converter test. Since is an open type one with high res pictures from seller - too bad he didn't test an arbitrary other where the failed "visual inspection" could have passed simply by a look at the pictures. (I even think those blue caps could be small ceramic safety ones).

Btw, found a version of EN 60335 here.

[alexsh1]

@m26872 said:

Btw, found a version of EN 60335 [here].

I've used this link

[m26872]

@alexsh1 Thanks, it was better in every sense.

[sundberg84]

@alexsh1 said:

I think the difference is that you are using the slow blow fuse 0.2A and he is using fast acting 0.8A one. I really wonder which one would be more safe. I know slow blow fuses are used with inductive load (like motors), but not sure about this application.

I know it has been mentioned here as well, but did you make any provision for a thermal SEFUSE (say, 73C) or do you think it would be too much?

Its a good a releveant question... im not sure about slow or fast, but when i read the slow blow can tolerate high levels of voltage for a short period and a fast (or quick) blow fuse is a fuse that bursts instantly when high power voltage is passed through it.

How i see it, we have the protection against high quick power voltages allready in the Varistor? (Im not educated in this - this is my brain/logic trying to add everything up). Allthough what i read is what you are saying - slow blow are often used in motors and fast blow on home appliaces.

In my PCB I use a 73dgr therma fuse as well, im using the exact same circut that petewill has in its first post in this thread.

[alexsh1]

@sundberg84

The varistor is against high voltage transients and surges. The fuse is for overcurrent.

I have just ordered 0.8A fast blow fuses - they will be installed on my boards.

[sundberg84]

@alexsh1 - yes offcourse, you are right - mixed that up.
I have some 0.5 fast blow - sounds like thats a better idea than slow blow @petewill.

[alexsh1]

@sundberg84 Given that HLK-PM01 can withstand current spikes to 1.0A, I decided to go for a 0.8A fast blow fuse. Additionally, having a thermal fuse would be an advantage, but not a must. Unless you want to push the PSU to around 600mA then it is going to operate close to its limit and you need some extra protection

[sundberg84]

@alexsh1 - what do you base it on, its not a must? Im trying to be as safe as possible :) but i really wants to learn as much as possible about safety regarding ac/dc converting.

[alexsh1]

@sundberg84 Obviously, there is no harm from having it, but if your consumption is, say, 150ma and the PSU is handling 600ma, this is just an extra in my view.

Did you see the IR images taken after about 45 minutes of operation over here?

[sundberg84]

@alexsh1 said:

150mA

Ok, sounds logic - tnx. If I want to run a relay and some sensors it might be higher than 150mA so I like the extra safety :) Yea, have read that review about 100 times now, and emailed the dude as well for questions, haha. Much to learn!

[petewill]

@sundberg84 said:

@alexsh1 - yes offcourse, you are right - mixed that up.
I have some 0.5 fast blow - sounds like thats a better idea than slow blow @petewill.

Are you guys sure you're not confusing the input current with the output? In the above mentioned review he says there is a "Maximum input current: <0.2A" which is the reason for the slow blow fuses (I think). Or, maybe I'm misunderstanding and you're talking about adding an additional fuse to the output of the HLK?

[sundberg84]

Yes, max input is 0.2A with spikes ok upp to 1.0A but
@petewill we were discussing about using slow or fast blow fuse on the input.

Slow blow seems to be more for motors and allowing equipment making spikes when they start up. Then the fuse wont blow due to a higher current during start. In home appliances it seems its a fast blow fuse we should use.

[sundberg84]

Found what seems to be a interesting article: https://www.ieee.li/pdf/essay/safety_considerations_in_power_supply_design.pdf (Texas instrument).
Not read through it or know if the source is reliable but Texas instrument seems like a good author/source. No references inside so I guess its "how they see it".

[petewill]

@sundberg84 Ok, I understand. I will defer to the experts here and update the first post when a consensus is reached. I do have one more thing I'd like clarified though. It still seems to me like a 200/300mA slow fuse would be better as it would survive small over-current spikes but it wouldn't allow sustained draws over the HLK's rating of 200mA. With a 600mA fast blow fuse the HLK could draw 500mA as long as it wanted without blowing. Maybe this doesn't matter though?

On a side note, when I tested one of my slow blow fuses it still blew pretty fast with a moderate load above it's specs. I tested with a 33 watt floresent bulb and it blew in less than a second (not sure of the exact time/wattage as it was really just a test to see if it was a fuse and not something else).

[Sparkman]

Transformers typically have an in-rush current as well, so a fast-blow fuse could pop because of this if it's not sized for that.

Cheers
Al

[sundberg84]

Interesting @Sparkman!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inrush_current "When a transformer is first energized, a transient current up to 10 to 15 times larger than the rated transformer current can flow for several cycles."