Skip to content
  • MySensors
  • OpenHardware.io
  • Categories
  • Recent
  • Tags
  • Popular
Skins
  • Light
  • Brite
  • Cerulean
  • Cosmo
  • Flatly
  • Journal
  • Litera
  • Lumen
  • Lux
  • Materia
  • Minty
  • Morph
  • Pulse
  • Sandstone
  • Simplex
  • Sketchy
  • Spacelab
  • United
  • Yeti
  • Zephyr
  • Dark
  • Cyborg
  • Darkly
  • Quartz
  • Slate
  • Solar
  • Superhero
  • Vapor

  • Default (No Skin)
  • No Skin
Collapse
Brand Logo
  1. Home
  2. Hardware
  3. Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??

Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Hardware
431 Posts 71 Posters 458.4k Views 69 Watching
  • Oldest to Newest
  • Newest to Oldest
  • Most Votes
Reply
  • Reply as topic
Log in to reply
This topic has been deleted. Only users with topic management privileges can see it.
  • sundberg84S Offline
    sundberg84S Offline
    sundberg84
    Hardware Contributor
    wrote on last edited by sundberg84
    #306

    Found what seems to be a interesting article: https://www.ieee.li/pdf/essay/safety_considerations_in_power_supply_design.pdf (Texas instrument).
    Not read through it or know if the source is reliable but Texas instrument seems like a good author/source. No references inside so I guess its "how they see it".

    Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
    RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

    petewillP 1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • sundberg84S sundberg84

      Found what seems to be a interesting article: https://www.ieee.li/pdf/essay/safety_considerations_in_power_supply_design.pdf (Texas instrument).
      Not read through it or know if the source is reliable but Texas instrument seems like a good author/source. No references inside so I guess its "how they see it".

      petewillP Offline
      petewillP Offline
      petewill
      Admin
      wrote on last edited by
      #307

      @sundberg84 Ok, I understand. I will defer to the experts here and update the first post when a consensus is reached. I do have one more thing I'd like clarified though. It still seems to me like a 200/300mA slow fuse would be better as it would survive small over-current spikes but it wouldn't allow sustained draws over the HLK's rating of 200mA. With a 600mA fast blow fuse the HLK could draw 500mA as long as it wanted without blowing. Maybe this doesn't matter though?

      On a side note, when I tested one of my slow blow fuses it still blew pretty fast with a moderate load above it's specs. I tested with a 33 watt floresent bulb and it blew in less than a second (not sure of the exact time/wattage as it was really just a test to see if it was a fuse and not something else).

      My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • SparkmanS Offline
        SparkmanS Offline
        Sparkman
        Hero Member
        wrote on last edited by Sparkman
        #308

        Transformers typically have an in-rush current as well, so a fast-blow fuse could pop because of this if it's not sized for that.

        Cheers
        Al

        1 Reply Last reply
        1
        • sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84
          Hardware Contributor
          wrote on last edited by
          #309

          Interesting @Sparkman!
          https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inrush_current "When a transformer is first energized, a transient current up to 10 to 15 times larger than the rated transformer current can flow for several cycles."

          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

          1 Reply Last reply
          1
          • RJ_MakeR Offline
            RJ_MakeR Offline
            RJ_Make
            Hero Member
            wrote on last edited by
            #310

            This in-rush 'effect' can be seen on any induction load.

            RJ_Make

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • m26872M Offline
              m26872M Offline
              m26872
              Hardware Contributor
              wrote on last edited by m26872
              #311

              I´m no expert but I thought and researched some. Could be wrong, please correct me then.

              I think you're confusing AC inductive load inrush current with what we're interested in, which is the inrush to our switched power supplies. In our case the inrush current is to the primary side rectifier filter capacitor, not to the transformer. The transformer inside SMPS is for high frequency and would probably give a small inrush even if it was subjected to normal AC. Now it's DC and behind the switch controller and FET. And the controllers I've seen usually have some start-up time.

              General about fast/slow types of small fuses (from here):

              The fuses must not open in less than one hour at 125% of rated current and open within two minutes at 200% of rated current. The 1000% overload is used to determine the fuse characteristic. The opening time for each rating is listed below.
              Type FF: Less than 0.001 sec.
              Type F: From 0.001 - 0.01 sec.
              Type T: From 0.01 - 0.1 sec.
              Type TT: From 0.1 - 1.00 sec.
              These characteristics correlate to the terminology used in IEC 60127-1.
              

              So in theory a type FF fuse could open "instantly" for 10*In (rated current) ? (in reality you check its specs of course). But let's see how a more normal type F fuse would work given the setup from a "normal" SMPS. I use this, but from what I've seen, primary side looks very similar to the HLK-PM01.

              Rectifier filter cap value of my SMPS: 4.7uF
              A normal 5x20mm fuse resistance value: 5 ohm (usually more resistances than just the fuse, but let's be conservative)
              Max voltage peak-peak 700V ( ~250Vrms )
              Regular capacitor calculation:
              I(t0) = U/R = 140 A
              T = RC = 54.7u = 23,5 us
              I(t) = U/R
              e^-(t/T) = 140*e^-(t/0.0000235)

              How much inrush current do we have at for e.g. the fastest F-type fuse characteristic:
              I(tmin=0.001) = 140e^-(0.001/0.0000235) = 140e^-(1/0.0235) = 3.3*10^-19 (i.e. zero current)

              How much time until I=0.1A (which would correspond to fuse value 0.01A):
              I=U/R*e^-(.) <=> e^-(.)=IR/U <=> (.)=-ln(IR/U) <=> t = -ln(IR/U)0.0000235
              t = -ln(0.1
              5/700)*0.0000235 = 0.00017 = 170us

              So even a 0.01A type F fuse should be far from blowing in a worst case and with conservative assumptions. For extra fast fuses, type FF, the characteristic must be checked.

              Edit: This is only regarding the inrush, of course the load must be added to this eventually.

              RJ_MakeR petewillP 2 Replies Last reply
              2
              • sundberg84S Offline
                sundberg84S Offline
                sundberg84
                Hardware Contributor
                wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                #312

                @m26872 So, to sum up - there is no need to use a slow fuse, since the in rush current isnt "long" enough to blow a fast fuse. So considering safety (and if you have the same mA value for both fuses) its better and should work to use a fast rather than slow ??

                Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • m26872M m26872

                  I´m no expert but I thought and researched some. Could be wrong, please correct me then.

                  I think you're confusing AC inductive load inrush current with what we're interested in, which is the inrush to our switched power supplies. In our case the inrush current is to the primary side rectifier filter capacitor, not to the transformer. The transformer inside SMPS is for high frequency and would probably give a small inrush even if it was subjected to normal AC. Now it's DC and behind the switch controller and FET. And the controllers I've seen usually have some start-up time.

                  General about fast/slow types of small fuses (from here):

                  The fuses must not open in less than one hour at 125% of rated current and open within two minutes at 200% of rated current. The 1000% overload is used to determine the fuse characteristic. The opening time for each rating is listed below.
                  Type FF: Less than 0.001 sec.
                  Type F: From 0.001 - 0.01 sec.
                  Type T: From 0.01 - 0.1 sec.
                  Type TT: From 0.1 - 1.00 sec.
                  These characteristics correlate to the terminology used in IEC 60127-1.
                  

                  So in theory a type FF fuse could open "instantly" for 10*In (rated current) ? (in reality you check its specs of course). But let's see how a more normal type F fuse would work given the setup from a "normal" SMPS. I use this, but from what I've seen, primary side looks very similar to the HLK-PM01.

                  Rectifier filter cap value of my SMPS: 4.7uF
                  A normal 5x20mm fuse resistance value: 5 ohm (usually more resistances than just the fuse, but let's be conservative)
                  Max voltage peak-peak 700V ( ~250Vrms )
                  Regular capacitor calculation:
                  I(t0) = U/R = 140 A
                  T = RC = 54.7u = 23,5 us
                  I(t) = U/R
                  e^-(t/T) = 140*e^-(t/0.0000235)

                  How much inrush current do we have at for e.g. the fastest F-type fuse characteristic:
                  I(tmin=0.001) = 140e^-(0.001/0.0000235) = 140e^-(1/0.0235) = 3.3*10^-19 (i.e. zero current)

                  How much time until I=0.1A (which would correspond to fuse value 0.01A):
                  I=U/R*e^-(.) <=> e^-(.)=IR/U <=> (.)=-ln(IR/U) <=> t = -ln(IR/U)0.0000235
                  t = -ln(0.1
                  5/700)*0.0000235 = 0.00017 = 170us

                  So even a 0.01A type F fuse should be far from blowing in a worst case and with conservative assumptions. For extra fast fuses, type FF, the characteristic must be checked.

                  Edit: This is only regarding the inrush, of course the load must be added to this eventually.

                  RJ_MakeR Offline
                  RJ_MakeR Offline
                  RJ_Make
                  Hero Member
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #313

                  @m26872 I'm no expert either. :smiley: We may be saying the same thing however... I don't think it matters (AC or DC), if there is a transformer in the circuit, there is going to be a current peak on startup. If you have a filter cap before your transformer, you will see 2 peaks. The first one will be caused by the capacitor charging up, and the second from the inductive load caused by the transformer powering up. I'm thinking the 2nd peak should be much less due to the filter cap.

                  Of course I could be all wrong. :persevere:

                  RJ_Make

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • RJ_MakeR Offline
                    RJ_MakeR Offline
                    RJ_Make
                    Hero Member
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #314

                    Here is an interesting article http://www.vptpower.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/2012/01/info_inrushCurrent.pdf on the subject. Looks like there is a LOT more to it (not that I thought there wasn't) than my over simplified post above.

                    RJ_Make

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • m26872M m26872

                      I´m no expert but I thought and researched some. Could be wrong, please correct me then.

                      I think you're confusing AC inductive load inrush current with what we're interested in, which is the inrush to our switched power supplies. In our case the inrush current is to the primary side rectifier filter capacitor, not to the transformer. The transformer inside SMPS is for high frequency and would probably give a small inrush even if it was subjected to normal AC. Now it's DC and behind the switch controller and FET. And the controllers I've seen usually have some start-up time.

                      General about fast/slow types of small fuses (from here):

                      The fuses must not open in less than one hour at 125% of rated current and open within two minutes at 200% of rated current. The 1000% overload is used to determine the fuse characteristic. The opening time for each rating is listed below.
                      Type FF: Less than 0.001 sec.
                      Type F: From 0.001 - 0.01 sec.
                      Type T: From 0.01 - 0.1 sec.
                      Type TT: From 0.1 - 1.00 sec.
                      These characteristics correlate to the terminology used in IEC 60127-1.
                      

                      So in theory a type FF fuse could open "instantly" for 10*In (rated current) ? (in reality you check its specs of course). But let's see how a more normal type F fuse would work given the setup from a "normal" SMPS. I use this, but from what I've seen, primary side looks very similar to the HLK-PM01.

                      Rectifier filter cap value of my SMPS: 4.7uF
                      A normal 5x20mm fuse resistance value: 5 ohm (usually more resistances than just the fuse, but let's be conservative)
                      Max voltage peak-peak 700V ( ~250Vrms )
                      Regular capacitor calculation:
                      I(t0) = U/R = 140 A
                      T = RC = 54.7u = 23,5 us
                      I(t) = U/R
                      e^-(t/T) = 140*e^-(t/0.0000235)

                      How much inrush current do we have at for e.g. the fastest F-type fuse characteristic:
                      I(tmin=0.001) = 140e^-(0.001/0.0000235) = 140e^-(1/0.0235) = 3.3*10^-19 (i.e. zero current)

                      How much time until I=0.1A (which would correspond to fuse value 0.01A):
                      I=U/R*e^-(.) <=> e^-(.)=IR/U <=> (.)=-ln(IR/U) <=> t = -ln(IR/U)0.0000235
                      t = -ln(0.1
                      5/700)*0.0000235 = 0.00017 = 170us

                      So even a 0.01A type F fuse should be far from blowing in a worst case and with conservative assumptions. For extra fast fuses, type FF, the characteristic must be checked.

                      Edit: This is only regarding the inrush, of course the load must be added to this eventually.

                      petewillP Offline
                      petewillP Offline
                      petewill
                      Admin
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #315

                      @m26872 Thanks! So, am I understanding this correctly that we would want a 200mA or 300mA fast blow fuse? Since I know some of us have already purchased the 300mA slow blow fuses do you think it is safe to use them? If I'm understanding correctly they should still blow relatively quickly if they are subjected to high current right?

                      My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • m26872M Offline
                        m26872M Offline
                        m26872
                        Hardware Contributor
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #316

                        @sundberg84 Yes, a fast fuse should give a higher level of protection without issues.

                        @RJ_Make That second "inrush" is what I called the load. It's completely governed by the controller and should not stress the fuse more than running overloads. If there's a peak it´s because of capactive load on the output and has nothing to do with the transformer.
                        Thx for the link. It confirmes that these turn-on-times are a few milliseconds just like the HLK-review said (around 3ms). No chance to superimpose the first peak.

                        @petewill Regarding fast fuse, yes. But the value I don't know. The HLK review shows overload capabilties, but I don't know about the input currents at that point. Honestly I think it's very unlikely that you'll be saved by using a fast fuse instead of a slow. It's more a matter of e.g. better varistor (overvoltage) protection and the personal feeling of maximum safety etc.

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • sundberg84S Offline
                          sundberg84S Offline
                          sundberg84
                          Hardware Contributor
                          wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                          #317

                          So there is another safety issue we should discuss for the HLK.
                          Creepage (separation between two solder eyes measured along the surface) and clearance (shortest distance between as measured through the air) on the AC input.

                          According to datasheet there is 5mm center-center, but real distance with solder and pads its more like 3, maybe 3.5mm.

                          I found this and this which was a great summary of some IEC standards states that if your are going to use 240v and put the HLK into a environment with pollution degree III higher you need more creppage than 3.2mm. What am i saying? If i understand this right its not safe to use the HLK in any environment where moisture condensation may occur (outside, bathroom). My guess when i try to read the contamination groups is that if you put the HLK inside a sealed case you get the contamination level down to 2 and then we are safe above needed 2,5mm.

                          To be on the safe side I have in my latest pcb added holes between AC input to increase creepage:

                          0_1456695808093_1.JPG

                          Am i right? Dont know - its hard to read all these articles and Im new to this so please bring anything to the table... corrections, questions or thoughts.

                          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                          TD22057T 1 Reply Last reply
                          2
                          • sundberg84S sundberg84

                            So there is another safety issue we should discuss for the HLK.
                            Creepage (separation between two solder eyes measured along the surface) and clearance (shortest distance between as measured through the air) on the AC input.

                            According to datasheet there is 5mm center-center, but real distance with solder and pads its more like 3, maybe 3.5mm.

                            I found this and this which was a great summary of some IEC standards states that if your are going to use 240v and put the HLK into a environment with pollution degree III higher you need more creppage than 3.2mm. What am i saying? If i understand this right its not safe to use the HLK in any environment where moisture condensation may occur (outside, bathroom). My guess when i try to read the contamination groups is that if you put the HLK inside a sealed case you get the contamination level down to 2 and then we are safe above needed 2,5mm.

                            To be on the safe side I have in my latest pcb added holes between AC input to increase creepage:

                            0_1456695808093_1.JPG

                            Am i right? Dont know - its hard to read all these articles and Im new to this so please bring anything to the table... corrections, questions or thoughts.

                            TD22057T Offline
                            TD22057T Offline
                            TD22057
                            Hardware Contributor
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #318

                            @sundberg84 I think that looks like an excellent idea. I was looking at the tear down of the HLK in the test that was run and it doesn't look like there was any reason for them to do this - at least as far as I could see, there was plenty of room to put those connectors at the corners like the DC side.

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • alexsh1A Offline
                              alexsh1A Offline
                              alexsh1
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #319

                              @sundberg84 How about a watertight enclosure?
                              In the UK it is IP67 (this is what it means -> http://aceeca.com/handhelds/ip67)

                              http://www.rapidonline.com/mechanical-fastenings-fixings/hammond-ip67-watertight-enclosure-with-flanged-lid-1555cf22gy-120-x-66-x-42mm-30-4338

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • sundberg84S Offline
                                sundberg84S Offline
                                sundberg84
                                Hardware Contributor
                                wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                                #320

                                @TD22057 Yes, you can see in the teardown they have thought about the creepage in the optical feedback unit (cut a hole in PCB) between primary and secondary. I dont know why they so close, but 5mm is enough - maybe they forgot about solder/pads would take some space?

                                @alexsh1 If i understand Contamination levels right the difference between III and II is that in III occurs conductive contamination so if you seal it up this should get it down to II.

                                Then there is a difference between materials - and if compare material I and III its a big difference in creepage - does anyone knows what this means? What material is a normal PCB?

                                Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                                martinhjelmareM 1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • sundberg84S sundberg84

                                  @TD22057 Yes, you can see in the teardown they have thought about the creepage in the optical feedback unit (cut a hole in PCB) between primary and secondary. I dont know why they so close, but 5mm is enough - maybe they forgot about solder/pads would take some space?

                                  @alexsh1 If i understand Contamination levels right the difference between III and II is that in III occurs conductive contamination so if you seal it up this should get it down to II.

                                  Then there is a difference between materials - and if compare material I and III its a big difference in creepage - does anyone knows what this means? What material is a normal PCB?

                                  martinhjelmareM Offline
                                  martinhjelmareM Offline
                                  martinhjelmare
                                  Plugin Developer
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #321

                                  Maybe they put the pins closer on the AC side than on the DC, to make sure people would not put the unit the wrong way, which could be dangerous? But as you say, they should have done a better job, though.

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • sundberg84S Offline
                                    sundberg84S Offline
                                    sundberg84
                                    Hardware Contributor
                                    wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                                    #322

                                    @martinhjelmare - thats a great thought - must be so, but if you think safety they should do the other way around, ac side wide apart and dc closer.

                                    Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                    RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                                    martinhjelmareM 1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • sundberg84S sundberg84

                                      @martinhjelmare - thats a great thought - must be so, but if you think safety they should do the other way around, ac side wide apart and dc closer.

                                      martinhjelmareM Offline
                                      martinhjelmareM Offline
                                      martinhjelmare
                                      Plugin Developer
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #323

                                      @sundberg84

                                      Yeah, :smile: , they really screwed that up. Unfortunate, when the rest of the design, seems so good.

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • sundberg84S Offline
                                        sundberg84S Offline
                                        sundberg84
                                        Hardware Contributor
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #324

                                        Some more info about Material Groups and CTI reagarding creepage. When i read PCI datasheets with FR-4 material from different pcb manufactures it looks like we are in the III group (worst offcourse).

                                        PCB in better groups (and better CTI) can be found offcourse - just add money.
                                        Also found a clearance and creepage calculator: http://www.creepage.com/

                                        Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                        RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • C ceech

                                          This one is not "safe", but it is an In-Wall AC to DC converter. Transformerless. With a 3A Solid state relay:

                                          2015-08-21T12-11-1.jpg

                                          2015-08.jpg

                                          The converter output is 3.3V at 100mA and the solid state relay is a Triac.

                                          schroecaS Offline
                                          schroecaS Offline
                                          schroeca
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #325

                                          @ceech : Is there a chance to get your design data for this board?

                                          1 Reply Last reply
                                          0
                                          Reply
                                          • Reply as topic
                                          Log in to reply
                                          • Oldest to Newest
                                          • Newest to Oldest
                                          • Most Votes


                                          16

                                          Online

                                          11.7k

                                          Users

                                          11.2k

                                          Topics

                                          113.1k

                                          Posts


                                          Copyright 2025 TBD   |   Forum Guidelines   |   Privacy Policy   |   Terms of Service
                                          • Login

                                          • Don't have an account? Register

                                          • Login or register to search.
                                          • First post
                                            Last post
                                          0
                                          • MySensors
                                          • OpenHardware.io
                                          • Categories
                                          • Recent
                                          • Tags
                                          • Popular