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💬 Serial Relay Board (RS-12)

openhardware.io last edited by openhardware.io

https://www.openhardware.io/view/331/Serial-Relay-Board-RS-12
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mr_red last edited by

Hi,
If you are planning to switch mains voltage with your relays you need to also retracht the buttom cooper. You separation looks WAY to small. Like the daisy-chainabillity (sic)!
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Cláudio Regis Hardware Contributor last edited by

Hi @mr_red, thanks for posting. I already had change this, your advice was nice for me. Safety First! haha.
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The final version of the boards contains few notable improvements Removed the PCB under the ESP8266 antenna. The previous design had PCB + Ground Plane, which resulted in VERY low reception. It worked just few meters away from the router. Removed the Temperature Probe - On the one hand - it does not really measure real temperature, on the other hand it populates the Single Analog port, and makes it unavailable for other usages Added place for an optional LDR (in case the Analog port is not used - one could add an LDR for added value) The connection between GPIO 16 and RST (Deep Sleep) is not bridged via a 0603 0ohm resistor (jumper). Depending on application it may be enabled or not Added a Power 5V line. That is - controlled via a SOT232 mosfet and one GPIO. This way you can connect power hungry modules and then turn them on or off. There are small mosfets rated ~ 2-3 amps for couple of cents. The big 12mhz crystal for the CH340G was replaced by a small patch ceramic oscillator to save space Added an additional mounting hole Added additional test pads for the unused GPIOs Added one Diode in series with the power to the WS2812B LED. It turned out, when powered directly via a USB Battery bank, the voltage can be 5.30-5.40v. And apparently WS2812B, does not light if VIN is > 5.15V. So putting a generic small Diode would drop 0.3-0.4V Here is how the latest design looks like
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Let me complete the example given for the node when you use V_IR_SEND. In order to send IR codes you need to transform the code in an unsigned long: char ircode[11] = {0}; // in case your code takes the form of 0xE0E0FF0F ... if (message.type == V_IR_SEND) { String hexstring = message.getString(); hexstring.toCharArray(ircode, sizeof(ircode)); ... // get the code as an unsigned long unsigned long code = strtoul(ircode, NULL, 0); // with IRLib send the code to TV sendSAMSUNG(code); ... Very simple, ** but is hard to find an example**!
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Good job, what is your antenna on this pic ? https://www.openhardware.io/uploads/56f2b419b65656da7cacd69c/394/Gateway_ext.jpg
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The author has done some good work ensuring good design practices; trace separation, fuses, etc. but I don't see any extra I/O brought out on this particularl switch. You would have to carefully solder to the chip itself, and modify the code a bit. You could use magnetic switches. Put a magnet on the blinds and the switch in window sill. The author notes that this is not an Arduino, but uses the same chip that the Arduino uses. The author doesn't explain how the chip is programmed. This method could have been used. It may be just as easy to use an RF Nano with a little power supply. This suggestion is not nearly as robust as the author's. For example, these power supplies have gotten bad reviews mainly because the mains power traces are too close together. I justify using them because in all likelihood a failure will pop the power supply and probably the Nano, too, noting that these are cheaper than the fuses you would put in to protect them. I am fully aware of the risks involved in doing this, and you should be, too (eg. burning down your house). -OSD
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What I didn't quite figure out was how it operates independently as a regular light switch. What I find most interesting is that this is 8 years old. There have been some incredible advances in the IoT world in that time. I was about to do a similar thing which morphed into an ESP-12F then added a touch screen. I call it the Universal Light Switch Imagine this: All the switches are identical. Any switch can easily be configured to control up to five devices ... and then changed, on-the-fly, to control a different set of devices. My design is part of a system that would require a controller (eg. Home Assistant), an MQTT broker, and receiving modules in the devices being switched. It's WiFI which assumes an access point. The DIY ULS is under $20 and the off-the-shelf receiving modules are under $10. (About the cost of a non-networked dimmer switch) If one doesn't have the controller and MQTT broker, they can run on an old (5 years?) computer (which is cheaper than an old RasberryPi). This project is a good one! OSD

💬 Serial Relay Board (RS-12)

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💬 Serial Relay Board (RS-12)

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