Success! Treating the nRF52805 like an nRF52810 and uploading to it from Segger Embedded Studio's IDE using Nordic's nRF52 SDK's PCA10040e board definition, then pin P.18 blinks using the same sketch that blinked P.18 on the nRF52832. I'm reporting back with this good news, because I haven't seen it tried or documented anywhere before. At least for this modest first attempt, this simple spoof works! At $2.50 each, these tiny nRF52805 modules with their trace antennas are a good value. By the way, the compiler that's built into Segger Embedded Systems is super fast compared to gcc.

@badisensors try ethernet gateway instead of serial. You won't need to pass anything to docker and it works just fine.

@TheoL that's not the dimmer's fault a far as I am concerned. It behaves the same way at full brightness. It's just a cheap chinese driver in it.

Of possible interest: Here's a guy who is building an inexpensive open source ethernet controller for stepper motors: What happend to Ethersweep? Project Update! – 12:36— Neumi If you listen to the end, it's revealed that there is now generous funding available which allows people to do this kind of open-source development as a full time job, which is what he is now doing. For that reason, I think there's a good chance he will complete his project within the allowed 6 months., and so by the deadline it will likely be nicely polished.

@mickecarlsson , thanks for your answer and help I ordered the NRF24 version So , will cancel it and order RFM69 version Cheers, JC

I deployed 5 sensebender nodes just after release in 2015, all with 2 AA batteries from ikea.1 died within a couple of years, because it was placed outdoors. But the rest kept going, and all have been going until this year. So 8 years of battery time on one set of batteries.. I think that is excellent battery life..

I get this in my log sometimes: [WARN ] [.discovery.MySensorsDiscoveryService] - Cannot automatic discover thing node: 0, child: 255 please insert it manually I use MySensors Binding 2.3.0.201801160936 on a serial gateway with mysensors 2.2.0 Where shall I insert the thing node and what should it look like?

Hi, this is an awesome project and after waiting for weeks to get all parts, I finally started building. The problem I am facing is that it seems that I cannot get the board working if I use such a 8-pin connector socket. I am generally OK with NOT using such a socket for sensors that "go into production" but for some sensors where space is not an issue or for boards which I want to use for testing different NRF24s etc, I would like to make the socket work. Does anybody have any tipps on how to make the radio reliably work with a socket? That would be awesome!

I emailed Hi-Link about the HLK-PW01 power supplies that @rmh, @yannik-mündler and myself purchased. These are the power supplies with a removable bottom. I sent the following email to Sunny at Hi-Link (contact info: http://www.hlktech.net/contact.php). ++++ Hello, Are the two HLK-PM01s in the attached images genuine Hi-Link parts? A major difference is the part on the right has a bottom cover that is easily removable. I bought the part on the left from an Aliexpress seller in July 2018. The part on the right was bought from the same Aliexpress seller in May 2019. Thank you very much for your help. ++++ Here is Sunny's reply: ++++ Now all of our module are use new version . The one you bought on 2019 is the new version, the old version is not used yet. By the way,May I know you are the final user or the reseller? If you are worried about it,you can buy from our website www.hlktech.net or our Aliexpress store https://hlktech.aliexpress.com/store/211069 directly. ++++ I went to the Aliexpress page in their email and found the HLK-PM01 page. On that page they say: ++++ Recently,there are many fake module in the market,in order to Standardize the market environment,keep benifit for the customers,We,Hi-Link,changed our module to the new but more quality version,the back of new version is show as the following picture,currently,the old version and new version were sent random,please pay attention to that!thank you very much! ++++ They also show images of the previous version (which we are all familiar with) and the new version (with the removable bottom). So, it appears the HLK-PW01 power supplies with the removable bottom, from a reliable vendor, or directly from Hi-Link, are genuine Hi-Link power supplies. Below is my two images of the bottom of the two genuine power supplies (old on the left, new on the right).

I'll update the PDF once I get to my own computer (which should be Sunday evening)

@dbemowsk Thank you!

@nekitoss I used 3.3V pro mini with regulator removed and powered by Vin pin. Also removed leds from the pro mini. I used minicore bootloader. I used the small pir sensors and again removed the regulator to power directly from the pro mini outputs. After that sleep the node and trigger on interrupt. Send battery level once a day. Use inbuilt battery level monitor and not external components that constantly drain power to get battery level. 1.8V is 0% on the graph (not visible yet!) but I have had nodes working below 1.7V It's a matter of luck with that it seems. Hope this helps you on the right track. I'll try and help if you want. This is the latest image and still going strong after 18 months. Voltage is at 2.903V Here is photo of the test example - I need to make a case and produce more of them over winter..... Here is the same build/code of a window sensor. Similar time frame but hardly triggered.....

@NeverDie i can speak for arduino side im not sure how it works for CircuitPython. virtual hard drive part is only true if there was a bootloader prior to update. im not sure how nordic ships their dongles but i think they dont install adafruit bootloader inside of them so you need a fresh bootloader install and it is easy but you need jlink for that. after connecting your jlink to nrf52 open the arduino from menu find jlink for adafruit nrf52 and then just simply click install bootloader and voila it works with arduino. but then again that usb dongle wont work seamlessly with adafruit bootloader because im sure adafruit has different pin maps you just need to check their pins from variants file and match them on paper to the dongle so when you write your code you know which ones to use, unless theres a seperate variants file specifically made for this dongle.

@ncollins Thanks for pointing that out. I hadn't noticed before that EBYTE had a super upgraded implementation for the nRF24L01 that includes a TCXO, 27dbm Tx power, forward error correction, and frequency hopping: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32955792424.html?gps-id=7590465&scm=1007.14677.110221.0&scm_id=1007.14677.110221.0&scm-url=1007.14677.110221.0&pvid=404d40e9-e799-4d10-a4e1-d3ebe0d0df08&spm=a2g1y.promotion-20181111.promoteWysiwyg_502241756.1 The high sleep current would be a problem for battery operated nodes, but... seems interesting. At the very least it's an existence proof that we should be able to make the nRF24L01 do frequency hopping. A couple years ago on the lowpowerlab forum a number of us brainstormed how the RFM69 might be made to do frequency hopping, all through only atmega328p control (no extra hardware). IIRC, one guy went off and got it working. I presume the same general approach might be applicable to the nRF24L01 as well. At the root of it all is the ability to keep all the clocks in sync--and recalibrating them as necessary--so that they are all hopping in unison from one radio frequency to the next. Time Synchronization in a SmartMesh IP Network – 02:47— LinearTechnology

@Magnus-Pernemark It's all ceramics.. (also the 4.7uF for radio)

Hello folks. There is any plan to include into mysensors the LoRa RFM95 ,96? I am currently testing one those modules at 433mhz with RadioHead library. I had conducted some test in suburban environment and getting around 1.8 miles range. I pretend to apply this for remote water pump control monitoring in farms. I still want to try the rfm69 and see how much range I can cover . Any advice will be highly appreciated. Regards

It has been a long time but I’ve learned a few things that I wanted to share. This library of information (Thank you NeverDie and others) has been so helpful in my hobby developments. Software Defined Radios for signal analysis. With the help of Andreas Spiess explanation of IQ transformations, I learned about Software Defined Radios and I bought one (RTL-SDR). Using this I can clearly discriminate between effective 433 MHz transmitters and bad ones. Not only is the signal density displayed on the software (SDR#) but so is the frequency. Power Profiler Kit II has been indispensable in watching power usage and seeing into the details of the radio transmission. In effect this thing has saved me from buying an oscilloscope for my simple little bench. Tonight, I saw this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9nycymUd-I It describes common PCB errors. It is too advanced for me, but I did pick-up a few ideas about ground planes (tip #6 from the video). I hope this is of some value for folks.

Hi, Working with tgs2602 , tgs 2620 and tgs2611 . I've read the replies from top to bottom but haven't understood how exactly i take data from the graph in datasheet and use it with power regression .

@bruno tanke you, very good. I share it in facebook.

^^^This. Good point. Maybe do some testing with RadioLib to see whether or not you experience the same problem.

@DavidZH - I really hate our electrical system here, but that is coming from an electronics guy, not a electrician. I like the idea of low voltage in the switches, however its AC. I would prefer to see DC, but the voltage drops might be something that they're attempting to avoid by sending AC instead. Yes, i agree about those damn rings and we also don't have the room here in the UK like you mentioned about the NL.

what I meant is that they don't actually go to 0v even if you short them as you will always be able to measure some small voltage. I am no expert but my bet is that that 0.5/0.6v is kind of their bottom line where they don't hold any more useful energy below that. For balancing there are SAB Mosfets that help to keep all the supercaps on the same voltage, but the reverse charge issue is the same for all series circuits, also LiPo worn out batteries can get to 0V and then getting reverse charged with all the consequent risk of fire.

What I didn't quite figure out was how it operates independently as a regular light switch. What I find most interesting is that this is 8 years old. There have been some incredible advances in the IoT world in that time. I was about to do a similar thing which morphed into an ESP-12F then added a touch screen. I call it the Universal Light Switch Imagine this: All the switches are identical. Any switch can easily be configured to control up to five devices ... and then changed, on-the-fly, to control a different set of devices. My design is part of a system that would require a controller (eg. Home Assistant), an MQTT broker, and receiving modules in the devices being switched. It's WiFI which assumes an access point. The DIY ULS is under $20 and the off-the-shelf receiving modules are under $10. (About the cost of a non-networked dimmer switch) If one doesn't have the controller and MQTT broker, they can run on an old (5 years?) computer (which is cheaper than an old RasberryPi). This project is a good one! OSD

@gohan alkaline batteries in general have been tested quite extensively and don't deviate much from the S-curve characteristics.

You are buying the board only, you have to buy the supercaps separately

@NeverDie said in The Harvester: ultimate power supply for the Raybeacon DK: Edit: This guy found another couple of possibilities as to what the E50D chip might be: https://www.electroschematics.com/pfm-module-circuit-surgery/ I have the same board as this guy. I removed the LED and resistor because they are on the input side, so they are almost useless anyway. For a board such as this, with a promised 0.9v startup voltage on the input side and a promised 5v on the output side, they really should have been attached to the output, not the input, to show roughly when it is that the board is producing useable output. At a 20mv "keep alive" input voltage, the input measures 0.5ma using a uCurrent Gold. That means the keep alive energy is 10 microWatts. Offhand, for the application we've been discussing on this thread, I suspect that number is too high to be practically useful, because at only 20mv input we'd be collecting far less than 0.5ma current from a tiny panel. At least now we know.

I think you can just set the I2C pins in MyBoardNRF5.h without remapping the pins in MyBoardNRF5.cpp. Look in MyBoardNRF5.h, under the Wire Interfaces section. Set SDL and SCA to 30 and 31 as appropriate for your board.

Hi John, appLog.txt I also tried using datatype string but it doesen't work. Meanwhile I have studies the log files more detailed and found the following behavior: when defining the device skeletal and when updating the derived device (first approx. 25 lines in the log file V_STATUS is declared as string with values 51 resp. 52 as specified in the web interface. The entity is "Modul 433 MHz". Later on, when using the toggle switch in the web interface the value has changed in the decription in the log file (see line 164 or 185) value has been changed to on/off. With this definition it seem that the mysensors-Plugin is feeded has been changed from the specified values. My conclusion is that the change is taking place somewhere outside the mysensors-plugin. By the way, if I change the type to string do I have to use quotation marks in the web interface? Thanks a lot for your support. Martin

@user2684 Thanks a lot

@mahesh2000 https://www.openhardware.io/view/299/Button-size-radionode-with-sensors-swarm-extension

@keithellis Lovely idea. I've followed suit and knocked up one but with the sensor facing the other way, so that it faces the meter, and the preset pot is and LEDs are facing away from the meter. That way the sensor side of the case can be stuck to the face of the meter, and the pot adjusted without removing it from the meter. The flashing light on DO flashes in sync with the LED on the meter. Theres a little ring that holds the sensor flush with the face of the case so it can lie flat on the front of the meter. Also, its a good idea to use black / dark coloured PLA so as to block out the any stray light that may illuminate the sensor (such as when the meter man comes to read it and shines a bright torch to see the dials).

@bjacobse I agree - when I was putting mine together I could see the desk top. But now it is in constant use 'building' I never know what I will find underneath something!

@scalz I have just updated to MySensors 2.3.2 and the sketch with interrupts stopped working. Any changes in any lib?

The note before the example sketch states that you should use the "modified" library from MySensors examples. But as of today, with MySensors 2.3.2 and Arduino 1.8.15 I used the standard DallasTemperature library (provided by the Arduino's Libraries manger) with no problems at all. Using the "standard" Arduino libraries is a grate advantage, so I the custom library is no more used, it could be useful to update the guidelines in the page. Stefano

@axillent said: @celonunes it is not my solution) it is a way of using 1.4.1 with multiple gateways I'm aware of this. @lunarok your wish may become possible in future developments using MQTT

Thank you @JeeLet ! I've been struggling with missing msgs for years with my Arduino Mega I changed pin and no issues! In the pjon code I've reached to list of tested pins that communication works properly https://github.com/gioblu/PJON/blob/38e36bb1228c1690143cfbf693a0bcb809514d6c/src/strategies/OverSampling/README.md?plain=1#L12

Found these bootloaders and using the 1MHz for some low power experiments. I did get this error message when burning the bootloader (using USBASP programmer) : "avrdude: WARNING: invalid value for unused bits in fuse "efuse", should be set to 1 according to datasheet This behaviour is deprecated and will result in an error in future version You probably want to use 0xfd instead of 0x05 (double check with your datasheet first)." The bootloader woas succesfully burned so the message was informational. I did look into this and made the following changes in boards.txt : I changed all the lines containing "......bootloader.extended_fuses=" There are multiples sections in the file that have these lines. old value -> new value 0x04 0xFC 0x05 0xFD 0x06 0xFE 0x07 0xFF I used this site link text for calculating the new values for the extended fuse. Now the error message is gone. Maybe this is of any help when using these bootloaders.

I was wondering about the lengths for the antennas mentioned on this page. For 868Mhz is mentioned a length of 82.2 mm on this page. The length most often mentioned over the internet - as first result of the 1/4 wave calculation - is 86,5mm. Searching a little deeper through the internet, i found that the antenna should be "a little shorter". Then they end up with around -1cm shorter or something around or more. One page mentioned the physically effect that the wave is moving in chopper around 5% slower as the theoratical speed. If i substract 5% of 86,5mm i end up with the here mentioned 82,2mm. I was very suprised about the different "approaches" for such a basic thing as antenna length every single . As most of the application over the internet seem to work somehow with all that different lengths, it seems to be just a fine-tuning thing. Anyway, i think it would be nice to mention this details here because most people will wonder about the 82,2mm in the first view... best regards Jens

New comments should be in the thread over in the open hardware section here

@skywatch ya i did try that 1st but it did not work so I tried to get it to work with the updated lib and so far it has been working well

Today the new rs485 shield arrived, i will solder it up over the weekend and start testing early next week:)

@TheoL Sound like a good time to update to the latest version. it is the best yet and very stable.

Hello, For a project wtih a fablab, we have using a Li-Polymer Charge Management Controllers MCP73831 You can have free "sample" for prototype if you ask directly to the factory, perhaps it could be faster.

@lood29 That is correct, assuming the same radio technology is used. Typically, you set up a separate gateway because you want to run a sensor network on a different radio family due to longer distances or similar.

@Eawo Domoticz groups sensors after the order you present them in, see: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/5132/ds18b20-ans-sht31-d-show-up-as-combined-sensors-on-domoticz/15 I send every 5 minutes and check the value before so that I only send if the value has changed I have been running my sensor for nearly 2 months now and battery level has only decreased 1-2% Make sure you use 1 MHz bootloader

Hi All, I'm trying a different approach, on how to use just the top (sensor) part of the livolo touch switch, but at the moment, i'm stuck at the PIC16f690 microcontroller functions in order to power up the LED. I'm using a Livolo VL-C601-2 model and based on the wires on the top part, i tried to make a diagram to batter understand the schematics. (Please note that i'm missing some wires and that i have not drawn all the wires from all the pins as i could not see all of them. If something is wrong, please let me know.) What i don't understand from the diagram below, is how does the PIC16F690 controls the two LEDs (red and blue) using only the RB4 (13) pin. From the datasheet link here i can see that the Pin 13 (RB4) has: RB4/AN10/SDI/SDA and supports IOC Can someone please explain to a noob in electronics how does this work and how does the pic switches from one LED to the other ?

Hi @CyborgAndy many thanks for providing the binding update for MySensors 4.0.4! I upgrade my OpenHAB 3.4.4 a few minutes ago to 4.0.4 successfully with your binding update. I use a USB connected serial-gateway. The OpenHAB manual installation upgrade works perfect. I need to do afterwards the following steps in the Karaf console, to get the gateway online again, after the update: feature:install openhab-transport-serial feature:install openhab-core-io-transport-mqtt feature:install openhab-core-io-transport-serial-javacomm Many thanks again! kerberos

i built the ethernet gateway with the ENC28J60 module, arduino nano v3.0 and RF24 radio, using this guide and there are three problems which i'm not being able to solve (i used the https://github.com/mysensors/MySensorsArduinoExamples/tree/master/libraries/UIPEthernet, as suggested). fixed ip, connected to power supply, ethernet cable and usb - ping works, but HA does not "sees" fixed ip, connected to power supply, ethernet cable but no usb - ping does not works ???? commented ip definition, to enable dchp - does not work. seams the instructions are outdated - i really need help to make it work. thx

@alexsh1 Indeed, there is a solderpad near to the D2 pin which needs to be closed (connected) to allow the IRQ signal to go to D2, so one can use the radio

Found the solution tanks to watou user in OpenHab Forum. Switch node2_sw2 "sw2 send + recieve example" (node2,all) {mqtt=">[mysensor:MyMQTT/21/2/V_LIGHT:command:OFF:0],>[mysensor:MyMQTT/21/2/V_LIGHT:command:ON:1],<[mysensor:MyMQTT/21/2/V_LIGHT:state:MAP(1on0off.map)]"} The secret is in the :state: declaration on the MAP! Thank you all

@guillermo-schimmel Thanks a lot ! I got it all up and running node a couple of nodes. But now I confused myself . I got an Arduino Nano as a node that also acts as a repeater, what bootloader can I push into that one? I assume anycahnnel and 16MHz should do the trick since it got that crystal attached. And also one thing that is not really clear in my head, I set the "Fuses&Lock bits" with the AVRDudess for my 328P barebone. But do I really need that? . If I load the bootloader in ARduini IDE for example I specify all those settings in the "board.txt" file. Or is that just to tell the IDE what settings is on the chip ? If I clear these two things up I think I got everything sorted now

Not very nice but I think this will work.. //float temperature = dht.getTemperature(); float temperature = dht.getTemperature()*9/5 + 32; if (isnan(temperature)) { Serial.println("Failed reading temperature from DHT"); } else if (temperature != lastTemp) { lastTemp = temperature; if (!metric) { temperature = dht.getTemperature()*9/5 + 32; //dht.toFahrenheit(temperature); }

Lets continue in correct topic https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4821/rain-gauge/35

@jeti said: @Nicola-Reina said: Anybody wanting 10 kits at a bargain price. I am sellling them at bargain price due to lack of time to play with them. If you are in Rome I can hand it over directly . If you are at EU maker faire this week end even better see you there. Otherwise I ship them too KR Still got the 10Kits? You can still buy these kits from my homepage.

@Omemanti, thanks for the pointer. Unfortunately, this seems to be a hardware problem of the NRF52* boards, not of the NRF51822-04 that is used in NeverDie's board. Is there any way to find out which peripherals are enabled while the nrf51 is sleeping? I tried googling and also looked at the openocd documentation, but couldn't see any reference to reading out the which peripherals are turned off and which are running while the nrf is in deep sleep. (I'm using a cheap Chinese ST-link V2 dongle to program the nrf via SWD).

Hi to all, I don't know if this is the right thread, but I'm trying to use an odroid c1 as a gateway. I'm posting here because I think you all could help me. The original thread I have done is this one https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6083/odroid-c1-as-getaway Feel free to go over there and give me advises.

@mfalkvidd Yes, that’s the one.

yes also here (France) there is still some person with the mask, a remnant of the trauma?

Ok, it works. Looks like the problem was caused by windows sensors that were not connected but initialized, so they were missing. I removed them in the MAX software and then everything was displayed correctly. Thank you for this great project!

@acb Hi @acb and others, regarding "Do you know if there is a version of this board that is pad-compatible with the C-versions of these HopeRF RFM69s before I go searching? (Since I believe the C-versions are also pad-compatible with the RFM95s…)" - did you find any alternative? I'm in the same boat looking for an adapter from NRF24 to the footprint of RFM69*C = RFM95/96. Thanks, Joost

@TheoL I will miss the mini maker faire as well (chillin in Ibiza at the moment, familytime)

@Yveaux Thanks for your reply. I've done a lot of debugging today. And I guess I found the issue. It's definitely related to the radio power consumption as you suggested. I'm currently using the new RFM69 driver, with ATC enabled by default. As long as the power level stays below -4 dB, everything works fine. If the gateway is powered off, the radio power level automatically increases to 100% and the PIR behaves weird. It's always HIGH. By rebooting the gateway, the node relink itself and gradually lowers its power. As before, when it goes below -4dB the PIR starts to work again. Since it's a battery powered device I decided to set #define MY_RFM69_MAX_POWER_LEVEL_DBM (-4) at the beginning of the sketch file. Even if the gateway fails (shutdown) the PIR does not get HIGH anymore. All the measurements work fine now by limiting the max power to the radio. By doing so all the sleeps of 1000ms after each send are not needed anymore.

@gohan Thanks for info.

My experience with using a "Micro USB 5V 1A 18650 Lithium Battery Charger Board With Protection Module" together with the "16 LED Solar Power Motion Sensor Security Lamp Outdoor Waterproof Light"s solar panel is that it's not charging the battery as well as the original built in PCB. Due to the varying voltage (up to 6V) of the solar panel it's not so well suited as a power source for "Micro USB 5V 1A 18650 Lithium Battery Charger Board With Protection Module". I experimented with diodes in serial (2 diodes gave best result) to lower the voltage. However using the original board allowed the battery to charge with a much higher current. I just cut of the motion sensor, and the power switch. It seems to work well. It's even charging a few mA now here when it's raining. My conclusion is that the "Micro USB 5V 1A 18650 Lithium Battery Charger Board With Protection Module" might be used but the original PCB makes a better job charging the battery. Cheers!

I saw this page and thought I give it a go. So I bought two OrangePi Zero 2. There's a lot of potential (WiFi) as a dedicated gateway. Currently the price is about US$20 on AliExpress (caveat emptor) There are a few flavors of Linux for it. I've dabbled with Armbian, Ubuntu and Debian Another upside is that it doesn't draw a lot of current ~0.5A, though I haven't been successful in getting the radio to run (the reason for me being here) This is also a downside as I suspect the power supply needs to be very close to 5V. Thinking it was a power hog like the RPi, I used a 5V-3A supply. This supply operates on the principle that the load will pull down the voltage. There are dire warnings on the orangepi page about using cheap SD cards, but failed to mention that power supplies have to be matched, too. It has a different CPU than the Orange Pi Zero non-2, the board that is used here. Use the serial interface to configure the board. You're going to be doing all your configuration in a terminal, anyway, so you don't need a monitor or a keyboard. https://www.instructables.com/Setup-Orange-Pi-Using-Serial-Port/ The big downside is that the SPI interface is not supported. My research indicates that in order to get it to work one must jump through some serious hoops and being low on the learning curve, those hoops are probably out of my reach. https://forum.armbian.com/topic/21688-tips-on-configuring-double-spi-through-two-chipselects-on-orange-pi-zero-2/ The armbian OS has another big downside, WiFi is not supported. Putting a TP-Link nano router configured as a client works, but it's another $30! Why did they even release the OS? So! Was anyone successful in getting the Orange Pi Zero 2 configured as a gateway?

Perhaps it would be good to update the example code. I mean the pull-up sequence: "It is recommended to set the pinMode() to INPUT_PULLUP to enable the internal pull-up resistor." - https://www.arduino.cc/reference/en/language/functions/digital-io/digitalwrite/ The following seems to be obsolete: // Setup the button pinMode(BUTTON_PIN,INPUT); // Activate internal pull-up digitalWrite(BUTTON_PIN,HIGH);

I mean the ESP framework version, selected by the board version https://arduino.esp8266.com/Arduino/versions/2.0.0/doc/installing.html#:~:text=Open Boards Manager from Tools,from a drop-down box.

I finally got this to work. Unlike what the description here says, this is how to update the value: In Home Assistant, go to Developer->Service->YAML mode: service: text.set_value data: value: "967067" target: entity_id: text.water_meter_100_2 (change 967067 with the value you want to add to the current counter) The service "notify.mysensors" seems to be deprecated by Home Assistant.

@jeremushka I haven't done it on the smart outlet but I did do it on my "Whole House Fan" project. You can check out the code from that if you're interested. Here is a link to the video if you wanted to check that out: https://youtu.be/KVsUe7sOCPo Also, just make sure you check out the specs on the acs712 and don't pass through more current than is safe. I don't remember the specs off the top of my head but I knew my whole house fan was safe because of what it would be drawing

@engy Hello. It's why I am using RFM69 as there is no fake

@Yveaux Thanks very much for all your help. I hooked up the IRQ pin to the Arduino pin 2 as you suggested and it’s working fine now.

@alowhum Sorry, I have abandoned this project. It didn't garner the interest I hoped it would, and I’ve moved on to other microcontrollers/radios/networks since then. This is hosted on GitHub’s free static hosting, so it should continue to work as long as they are in business, and it should work on devices as it was 5-6 years ago. But I won’t be supporting it and won’t continue to build on it. Glad to hear that you like it!

My current roller roller Shutter switch are two pushed buttons up and down. No stop button. When release the push button up or down, the shutter will stop. WIll it be compatible with this board or will i have to change the buttons ?

Reporting back: I have my BambuLab X1C printer setup and have printed with it for about a week. It's fantastic: it's fast, and the prints come out perfectly every time. Truly an appliance: it works with only minor setup straight out of the box. I'd say it's a quantum leap better than my Prusa MK3S, which I guess I should try to sell while it still has value.

With how long max tape you test it ? I have a living room and i need control RGBW with about 16 meters.... I can use your controller ?

@hlehoux - nice once! Thanks for sharing!

@flopp Found one mistake. I wrote some Serial.print to see where in the code my problem was and I wrote in a wrong place, so the code was looping on a wrong way. When that was corrected I found out that my relay needed to get 1 when it was off, so I just changed to below and now I don't get a green light as soon as I power on the arduino #define RELAY_ON 0 #define RELAY_OFF 1

Update on the project. New version added to openhardware.io

Thought I'd share a couple cool things I've learned recently. One is that meshmixer offers treelike supports, which is pretty cool, and it's free: You can import your model and just add the supports without using the rest of meshmixer, if that's all you want. That's how I plan to use it. The other is that if you want to print faster, but with good print quality, you should definitely look into linear advance. How to use Linear Advance in Marlin – 10:58— Teaching Tech Anyone else learned anything cool lately?

I'm wondering what the minimum input voltage is. The description only says max. 6.5V input voltage from the battery, but does not say what the minimum is. Both the nrf24l01+ as well as the atmega328P work with 3.3V, so if I use three AA batteries, that should be fine, right? I suppose using two AA batteries is not enough?

@ncollins Impressive! Looks as though you even modeled the exact shape of the coincell holder. And you apparently designed the 3D printer snap enclosures as well. Even just the 3D printed enclosure modelling is quite a task all by itself. I hope to one day evolve into doing that too, but for now the Hammond enclosures are going to be my short-term solution. The smallest Hammond is still not as small as what you've managed to produce, but at 36mm wide for an off-the-shelf ABS enclosure, it's too wide by only about 10mm. Still.... one day I want to 3D print an enclosure to be as small as possible.

@artur said: and who will MQTT broker? You are right! I misunderstood something here! I believe I have to create code for MQTT broker with MyController http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2285/mqtt-broker-support-in-mysensors-1-6

@dzungpham0703 I replied in the nrf51822 thread. Yes I managed to make it work like the original with BLE stack. And using the wonderful Cypress Proc BLE solution including capsense and lots of goodies . Cypress really rocks! I love them. The current consumption was lowered to 200uA without being connected and 700uA connected. Those numbers include LEDs current consumption and other blocks like touch sensing. I'll get back with more updates when it's finished.

Hi Thank you for your reply and I understand that, if you look at the code you will see that pin 3 isn't named/defined in the coed. Unless I am missing something Thanks

For info, Luminara works with USB-UIRT with windows (Eventghost) Code IR ON: 0000 006F 0000 000A 01DD 0054 00F1 0053 002C 007B 002D 007B 002C 007B 007C 002B 002D 007C 002C 007B 007B 002C 007B 0FF1 Code IR OFF: 0000 006F 0000 000A 01DD 0054 00F2 0053 002D 007B 002D 007B 002C 007B 007C 002C 002C 007B 002D 007B 007B 002C 002D 09F6 With Eventghost you can create request HTTP to Trigger IR signal I learned code IR with LM Remote KeyMap beacause EventGhost don't learn signal

I may misunderstand how they work, but I've had the idea that (super)caps are better in short term high current situations. Like regenerative brakes for robot lawnmowers, not slow drain low power devices. It sounds to me like the life boat is the lifepo4 batteries. I'm all for experiments, so please dont stop, but unless the environmental conditions are intolerable for the batteries, I'd say you found your answer.

There is several alternatives in aliexpress to the memory @Anticimex posted above, SPI interface, same pin distribution, only change the memory capacity and voltage input. (and good prices)

For anyone who is interested in this topic, I posted some comments about the am612 on this other thread: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/5986/pir-am312-412-612 It may have some relevance to the am312.

Hi everybpdy.....any news on this topic? my radio chips say NRF24L01+, however are detected as NRF24L01. Got 3 of em working perfectly on Uno and Nano...but on pro mini always gettin the f**n "check wires" message...the only difference is the regulator (I'm using arduino pro mini 5V), but i checked and radio is getin 3.3 as it should be.

Hello, I had the same problems and I solved it by using an external 12V power supply created with a RAC02-12SC from RECOM Powersupply. Regards

good, give it a try

@ricardot said in pimatic-mysensors controller plugin: @Dheeraj, Do you plan to continue to develop this plugin? I will very pleased to see a mysensors button. Thank you! I second this. And also see if we can lose the dependency on serialport 2.0.6 so that we can use Node.js > 4.9.1

@evb No I did not. I was thinking about filtering out obviously wrong readings, but never implemented it since it was not high priority project. I am glad that there is some activity going on related to this issue.

Thank you all! I had a great day in geek paradise! Compliments to hek with family for the warm welcoming, deliciuos food and showing of the house, bjacobse for the idea, mfalkvidd for the deep road trip discussions, the core team gurus for letting us witness the final 2.0.0 release preparations and Mrlynx, Briske and bjacobse for project discussions. You all also know now what my next contribution to openhardware will be.

Got it to work. Removed serial.print lines and changed sleep() to wait().

@yveaux said in Ikea Molgan Hack: @magpern the instructions on openhardware.io state that the Molgan must be battery powered while programming: Well, then I can confirm that you don't have to power the Molgan from batteries just for programming. Burning the bootloader works fine with just power from the ISP port and programming it through FTDI works fine if power comes from the FTDI. What I found wierd is that the atmega328 had power, the radio had power, it wrote debug messages to the FTDI - when powered through the FTDI, it send radio messages etc, but it just did not receive messages. Messages where not received until I supplied power to the + / - pads (battery pads). I did read the instructions on openhardware.io, but I didn't follow then to the t.

And after getting out of the fridge, side by side, only a reasonable difference in humidity level. ( and yes, the weather is unconfortable today )

Hello everyone, Firstly, I apologize for reviving such an old thread, but I find myself in a unique situation and was hoping some of you might be able to help. I hope everyone's doing well. I have a specific inquiry that I couldn't find a recent solution for. Does anyone here know of a tool to generate "fake" Dooya remote (DC90) RF codes for curtains? I've acquired a few motors without controllers and am trying to integrate them with Home Assistant and Bradlink RF remote. Specifically, I'm searching for a way to generate codes for the Up, Down, Stop, and the "Set" button functions to configure curtain limits. Any insights or guidance would be immensely appreciated. Thank you so much in advance!

@gohan sorry, my bad, nothing to do with vcc library ... just realized that vcc lib allows me to measure vcc without resistor divider:-)

I got it from CPC in the UK which are owned by Farnell https://cpc.farnell.com/hammond/1593qgy/case-with-bat-compart-110x66x28mm/dp/EN82140 You may have to make a slight mod to the board or enclosure to make it fit. good luck

@mfalkvidd Thanks! Just give me a couple of days and I will try to make a new tutorial for mysensors+openhab.

@Avamander "MySensors" has had support for this for quite some time yes. As you can read in the topic post of this thread. Encryption is discussed elsewhere on the forum.

Do you really need a compact device?

@zmatokan said in NModule: @Nca78 Are you still working on this pcbs? i think it would be great to add a version that supports HiLink 220ac->5dc module on powerboard. No I'm not working on NModules anymore, I have a few old nodes using atmega/nrf24 but I switched to NRF5 for "basic" nodes now, and to ESP32 for more "advanced" stuff. NModule was designed for beginner and simple/riskless use, so I don't think adding high voltage option is a great idea, it's better to use an external power supply and connect the output to the powerboard.

@Ddawme - Hi! I suggest you read all the links in the project for example: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4175/clearance-creepage-and-other-safety-aspects-in-mysensors-pcbs

I really don't know, I can't help you much. My sugestion would be to back down to a simpler sketch like blink, use the standard arduino ide and try everything. Just then move to more complex projects like roller shutter.

I would really like to get OTA working here as it's freezing outside and I have to go there to update the software in the greenhouse control system. So please, can we have a 'how to' step-by-step guide to OTA? Please? S.

Hey @edsteve ! This thread mainly covers the serial connection via the serial binding and by using rules. You are using the binding for OH1, so I suggest to start a new thread or trigger @bkl.

@scalz said in 8Bit or 32Bit processors: Arrow.com is nice too as it's 20€ minimum order for getting free express shipping Just received my first order today, delivered only 4 opening days after order in Vietnam, and ... no taxes not even VAT In total i ordered 12 SAMD of 3 kinds, a few atsha and some 0603 ferrite beads my local sellers don't have. I was a bit surprised to see a 505010cm box. But then when I opened the box I understood. This is the packaging for 4 ATSAMD20: carton box containing a giant antistatic bag containing 2 plates made for 260 MCUs each and only 4 in the middle. Missing on the picture is the bubble wrap that was around the antistatic bag. Packaging for other parts was not that delirious but still excessive imho, I guess they're not trying to be awarded a green label In the end a very positive experience: reasonable prices, not cutting corners on packaging, great express shipping (now I'm sure I'll never use DHL again...). I just need to buy another apartment for storage before I make a new order

@TimO now I tried the new combination of a recent OH2 snapshot as of 2016-12-21 with the recent mysensors binding. I had to restart the gateway and every single node but then everything works well. The nodes were found in the inbox and could be acknowledged as new things. Values are transmitted regularly and my relay node follows the switch items as desired. So no glitch at the moment. Well done @TimO.

Sorry for my NRF24 clone post yesterday. The ACK bit was an issue with the NRF5 platform. I had switched the memory region to handle TX/RX/ACK packages separately. Sometimes the received packages are written in the wrong region. I had seen my testing ACK bit. Now, I have changed my NRF5 code and I can't see no difference between the modules, I have. ACK and timing are exactly at the same level.

@Dwalt Thank you very much, now I understand better why the measurement of the voltage on input A0 was never good ..

I think my biggest challenge is understanding when to combine the additional sensor in the main loop or when to put it in another. The whole idea of interrupts is baffling to me too.

I think I found the problem. I think it misbehaved because of an illegal character in the "HOSTNAME". Changed the hostname yesterday and It was still alive this morning even if I have not pinged it.

Hi @berkseo. Thanks for the suggestion, but could you describe in more detail? As for my TODO list, there is already a task to add 485 interface to the gateway. My latest device "xRoom" have this interface. ps/ Where have you gone? I have been working on "xRoom" shield. A small announce: Do you remember the discussion about multinode? So, it will be available soon))

My mini board.

I think I'm ussing the latest one but as you said I don't think it will fix my issue though. But looking at the examples I found that they have a connect function which then can be used to reconnect whenever needed not constantly like it happens now, But not sure how I could integrate that functionality in this sketch though, as I'm not that experienced with programming To you think it will be possible? /* Reconnecting MQTT example - non-blocking This sketch demonstrates how to keep the client connected using a non-blocking reconnect function. If the client loses its connection, it attempts to reconnect every 5 seconds without blocking the main loop. */ #include <SPI.h> #include <Ethernet.h> #include <PubSubClient.h> // Update these with values suitable for your hardware/network. byte mac[] = { 0xDE, 0xED, 0xBA, 0xFE, 0xFE, 0xED }; IPAddress ip(172, 16, 0, 100); IPAddress server(172, 16, 0, 2); void callback(char* topic, byte* payload, unsigned int length) { // handle message arrived } EthernetClient ethClient; PubSubClient client(ethClient); long lastReconnectAttempt = 0; boolean reconnect() { if (client.connect("arduinoClient")) { // Once connected, publish an announcement... client.publish("outTopic","hello world"); // ... and resubscribe client.subscribe("inTopic"); } return client.connected(); } void setup() { client.setServer(server, 1883); client.setCallback(callback); Ethernet.begin(mac, ip); delay(1500); lastReconnectAttempt = 0; } void loop() { if (!client.connected()) { long now = millis(); if (now - lastReconnectAttempt > 5000) { lastReconnectAttempt = now; // Attempt to reconnect if (reconnect()) { lastReconnectAttempt = 0; } } } else { // Client connected client.loop(); } }

I'm currently in the process of trying to figure out why one of my battery powered nodes isn't working very well with a newly purchased NRF24L01+PA+LNA module. I've shielded it as described in earlier posts. There is plenty of pure power in the batteries. Just as in the case for @pkjjneal it works well only if I'm touching the antenna with a finger. I decided to look inside the antenna: As you see above, it starts with an antenna cable that leads to a half wave dipole (where the antenna element is of about 1/4 wave length) and there is a "sleeve balun" going back over the cable . I can find no ground plane though. The problem that I can see is that the antenna length is 27 mm where it should optimally be 28.8 mm. Now, if I remove the antenna completely my node works quite well. At least better than if I use the original antenna unmodified. If I insert a wire (DIY antenna made by a paper clip) extending 121 mm out of the antenna sockets forming a full wave length antenna things work great. I also modified the original antenna so that the antenna element becomes 28.8 mm. It works a bit better but it's far from perfect and communication errors are shown in the log. As the final test, I added a nice ground plane to the original antenna and now it works really perfect! So what can I learn from this? My test rig is an EasyPCB powered with batteries. I'm quite sure that my NRF24L01+PA+LNA module used in another scenario, for example connected to a Arduino Nano fed by a FTDI connector could actually work. It's because it would create a different environment. The antenna will work in relation to what it's connected to, shielding the grounding, and surrounding objects. Capacitive and inductive reactances are involved in mysterious ways. Anyway. My conclusion is that the two original antennas I have are not working very good. They obviously have the wrong length just a little bit, and I'd say that the the way the antenna is constructed with the sleeve balun and no ground plane, doesn't seem to work well. At least not here. I'll do some more experimenting with making my own antennas. Starting with taking apart an original antenna is not so bad, I can solder anything (solderable) onto the cable. Cheers! From wikipedia: Sleeve balun At VHF frequencies, a sleeve balun can also be built to remove feeder radiation. Another narrow-band design is to use a λ/4 length of metal pipe. The coaxial cable is placed inside the pipe; at one end the braid is wired to the pipe while at the other end no connection is made to the pipe. The balanced end of this balun is at the end where no connection is made to the pipe. The λ/4 conductor acts as a transformer, converting the zero impedance at the short to the braid into an infinite impedance at the open end. This infinite impedance at the open end of the pipe prevents current flowing into the outer coax formed by the outside of the inner coax shield and the pipe, forcing the current to remain in the inside coax.

@Samuel235 I am looking at a CO sensor too, do you have any updates on the ones you are using? What is the exact model?

How ever powering from usb is not very stable. When sending multiple messages with delays my sketch sometimes stalls. Need to test with the suggested 6v power supply though. But most nodes don't need to send multiple messages quickly

Hi, I started building this great idea of solar powered soil moisture sensor. Not integrated yet in a solar light as above, but still on my desk. I tested the sensor in salted water and I get a report of 78% moisture : based on your experience, is it normal ? Then I pushed the sensor in a very humid plant pot and read 71%. I would have expected mroe differenc ecompared to salted water. So, would you advise to caliber ? I guess I could modify the calculation formula in the script.. Precisely, is it possible with Mysensor technology and Domoticz to push to a sensor a new setting (for instance to caliber using Domoticz each different sensor) ? And another question.. Is it possible to ask Domoticz to show the result of moisure reading in the Weather or Measures category rather than in the Temperature menu ? br, Ricorico94

V_HVAC_FLOW_MODE, V_HVAC_SPEED and V_HVAC_FLOW_STATE handling still missing. No smartSleep implementation yet.

@TimO Great! Thank you!

Sorry if i shouldn't be bringing an old thread back to life, however it is a sticky and therefor I assume you guys would be okay with this being brought up to date. I have a pretty simple question really; My W5100GatewayMQTTClient is in a loop, as shown below on the serial monitor, it seems to be reconnecting to the MQTT server every 8-10 seconds. Is this normal behaviour or not? I'm by no means asking for a solution (if i get one i will be sure to post here for others to revert back to if needed), but if you would like to suggest something, then it would be appreciated. I'm looking more for just a confirmation of if this is normal behaviour as of MySensors 2.1 or not. I used to run this client gateway back when MySensors V1.6 was in the development branch back in late 2015 and It didn't do anything like this back then.

@nca78 said in Fewer home automation postings? What's behind it?: The only problem I see is it's based on an atmega setup which will probably soon be deprecated for MySensors. Yes that is an issue. For now I'm trying to keep the sketches so simple that the simple signing and encryption feature will still work. I read that in MySensors 2.3 a goal was to make the encryption and signing features use less ram, so there might still be some life left in the Nano I also found an STM32 board that has a NRF socket built in. But that has to be manually soldered, and it also make sensors less easy to connect (fewer GND and VCC pins).

@yury said in Wall Socket Insertable Node: Looks cool! Do you have experience with capacities switches? I did not play much with them. afraid to use close to AC interference though... You need to use a capacitive IC with active shielding, basically you have an extra electrode around your touch electrode and the touch IC will compare capacitive change of the touch electrode with capacitive change from the shield electrode. If the change is due to electrical interference then both electrodes will be changed in a similar way and the IC will not trigger.

I was thinking to have it powered with battery and solar charger but lot can go wrong with this setup, may be best to have it powered via proper power supply, i have ordered sensor and i will build this once i get that delivered and report back, i was thinking to calculate co2 footprint as well for gas usage. @dpcr said in Gas Meter Reading Using a Magnetometer: @pihome I power mine with an adapter as well. This node sends too much information to be battery powered. I was researching solar because the sensor sits outside on the south side of our home but never followed up on it. Maybe for another day.

@rejoe2 Thanks! I will do that. the code i used was from the examples. My relays work fine but my temp sensors never register. Even in serial. but if i run the Dallas temp my-sensors code separate i always get reading. Its just been mind boggling.

I notice that the kit from CNCrouterParts does appear to use the springy couplers: John Park's Workshop: CNC Machine Kit Build @adafruit @johnedgarpark #adafruit – 09:28— Adafruit Industries So, I guess it can't be bad, because they seem to make very nice kits.

@mfalkvidd said in Best PC platform for running Esxi/Docker at home?: @NeverDie ...You can also use the command line tool fstrim to manually discard unused data. Looking into this, I think checking the "Discard" box on the "Hard Disk" tab of the "Create a Virtual Machine" dialog box inside ProxMox may automatically accomplish the same thing. Also the ProxMox dataset that the VM is saved on needs to be set to thin-client. So, those two things plus the ssd emulation that you mentioned, and of course automatic file compression like lz4 needs to be enabled. So, in total, four things need to be set correctly for it to work optimally. Originally I was concerned that because, if using ZFS as the file system, ProxMox only allows storing a VM as a pre-allocated "raw" file (rather than as a qcow2 file as ProxMox would if ProMox were using a linux ext16 file system instead of ZFS) that the file would take up enormous space even if the raw file (i.e. the VM's virtual disk) is mostly empty. So, I did the experiment, and it turns out that is true if the ProxMox dataset isn't configured as "thin-client" or if automatic file compression isn't turned on, but fortunately the true size of the raw file does indeed shrink down if those two conditions are enabled. So, having proved that to myself, I'll pass on the tip: I now create a VM's disk to be as large as I can imagine it would ever need to grow, and then I let the thin-client mechanism maintain the true size of the virtual disk to be only as large as what is actually necessary. This way I don't have to worry that I created too small a VM disk, or that the VM will later outgrow the disk size that was originally allocated for it.

@mpp said in MySensors 2.0.0 Released: pm open,type:2 0 This is a message emitted by the ESP8266 core, not MySensors related.

@marcusakamg7 that's strange, I never ordered this board on OSHPark, I will check later.

Everything's working like a charm now , so thread is marked as [solved] now. One more big "Thank you" to everybody helping to get this finally done ! In addition a picture of my Node 2 - the one I did the most rework over time until now also showing the violet MCP2551 module mentionned above.

@TimO Thank you very much for your help, now I succesfully connected my iboard card as LAN Gateway without doing any HW modification and even any software modification to any library, simply using the sketch you sent here. For general information to other people that want to use the iboard card with Domoticz, to avoid any problem like the following: 2016-12-18 12:06:40.840 MySensors: trying to connect to: 192.168.1.133:5603 2016-12-18 12:06:41.841 MySensors: connected to: 192.168.1.133:5603 2016-12-18 12:06:45.841 MySensors: Connection reset! 2016-12-18 12:06:45.842 TCP: Reconnecting in 30 seconds... Consider to use the Arduino IDE 1.6.8 to compile and upload the sketch, otherwise, with newest Arduino IDE you will get the error messages above. Thank you again for you help and a big hello to all the members of the forum. Regards

Very interesting information, thank you very much!

Wooo, cool to see it live!

So it appears that the saga has been solved. The problem in fact WAS with the FTDI adapter. In all of the testing that I did I am guessing that the FTDI's receive data was working, but the transmit data was the issue. I put my spare FTDI on and Vera was detecting devices left and right. I think I am going to have to redo the inclusion because it said that there were 5 devices found, but nothing was added to Vera, but like I say, the devices did not appear to be presenting at the time. I want to say though that I appreciate all the time that people spent trying to help me get this going. This forum is a GREAT crowd of people.

Just wondering if the gateway inclusion push-button needs an external pull-up resistor. I looked at the code (older code 1.3 something) and didn't see internal pull-ups enabled, yet in the instructions it does not mention to hook up an external pull-up resistor. Please advise...I have designed a gateway PCB with an external pull-up because I didn't see internal pull-ups enabled in the code.

@bilbolodz well, no it is 2mm pitch.

@MiKa If you happen to have time, could you test the range with a stable 2.7V supply and a 1mF cap in parallel to the battery? I am really not happy with the HT7333 solution, since the shelf life of the keyfob will be limited and the quite expensive LIR2032 can easily be damaged by undervoltage. If the second test works, I could fit 4 220uF 6.3V tantalums next to the LED. Else I would give the step-up thing another go. There are low profile inductors, but I didn't find any for cheap (shipping) at Aliexpress.

@lis610 I have found with a 499K resistor the range is reduced to about 1.2m in a ABS box. With a 1Mohm it was about 3m, I do not have many high value SMD resistors to experiment with but the lower the value the lower the range. Just tried with a 333K and it operates about 0.8m in free air.

Hi all we are working on a new web client for our domotic framework. Here some screenshots It's a WIP so we need any help to complete it. The code is available at https://github.com/freedomotic/fd-vue-webapp/