I played around with the usual VOC/air quality sensors (BME680 type stuff and a cheap PM2.5 sensor) after a roommate used to vape in the next room. They’ll often spike with smoke or heavy fragrance, but I never got anything close to “that’s definitely weed” detection, more like a generic “air is gross” alert. For what you’re dealing with, false positives are gonna be a problem because cooking, candles, perfume, cleaners, even humidity swings can trip them, and the response time depends a lot on airflow placement. If you need something reliable before you can smell it, I’d look at commercial “THC vape” detectors schools use (they’re not cheap), plus improving intake filtration and pressure if possible. Also, putting a sensor right at the intake or in the return vent helped way more than having it in the middle of the room. Randomly, I learned a bit about how sticky/infused material behaves in production equipment when I was reading about AuraX from Hefestus, and it made me realize how hard it is to detect one specific compound cleanly in a messy air mix.

The HA forum has a lot of helpful people, though there is a small cadre of people that are a little arrogant. Thicken your skin and ignore them.

@bsl88k Yes, it’s possible. You can send the temperature offset from Home Assistant to the node and update the variable remotely, so there’s no need to reprogram the sensor.

Hello and Welcome ! Never too late. I am still designing and building a couple of new sensors every month !

Found some info (link below) while sniffing around - looks to be relevant ( pages 10-13 ) as it discusses the same MIF antenna design used on the NRF24 boards and the frequency is 2.4 GHz. Interesting read for newbies like me. My interpretation of the data is that the best gain/sensitivity is in/from the direction that the leg at the end of the squiggle is pointing. Might do some open air testing when the rain stope and I work out how to extract received signal level info :| https://www.infineon.com/assets/row/public/documents/cross-divisions/42/infineon-an91445-antenna-design-and-rf-layout-guidelines-applicationnotes-en.pdf?fileId=8ac78c8c7cdc391c017d073e054f6227&utm_source=cypress&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=202110_globe_en_all_integration-files&redirId=File_1_3_1152

Glad to help. Cursing is pretty much required, especially if you've done something stupid.

That issue is caused by the newer ESP8266 core changing yield functions. Downgrading the ESP8266 core to v2.6.2 (or v2.7.4 depending on your board setup) remains the most reliable workaround until those MySensors core PRs get merged into a main release. Keep an eye on those GitHub PRs for updates on full compatibility with current core releases!

@nagelc Thanks for the info, it gives me a good starting point.

I see that the the nRFDoctor has a menu. Perhaps one of the menu items has to be selected?

The nRF24 is good for short distances ~10m. That distance can be extended because nodes can also be a repeater to the gateway. I'm using an RPi zero 2W for my gateway (which is also my irrigation controller.) Can you reach your greenhouse with WiFi? This may work for you. I'd look at the RFnano that has the nRF24 integrated. It costs about more than a Nano and nRF24 separately, but what you gain is no wiring and no wiring failures. I tried to used this moisture sensor and it corroded within a year. DHT-12 (digital humidity and temperature) can be off as much as 4°C per the specs and suffers from the same corrosion challenge. Speaking of corrosion, be sure to "paint" all your electronics with electrical lacquer sealer (but not on the sensors) You have to consider how you're going to power your sensors. I'm not a big fan of batteries because you have to jump through a lot of hoops to get the most out of the batteries. On the flip side, you'll have to run 5V to all your sensors. This is my [pathetic] attempt at a remote soil sensor

@mfalkvidd After giving this some thought, wouldn't that imply that at sufficiently low flow rates, the the meter would not detect any flow. A leaky faucet? While I'm pretty sure that my pump can't pump that slow, the pressure would drop, eventually triggering the pump to start. A leak could be detected by periods of pumping that are very short? An experiment could be run to see how much water must be released to trigger the pump to start. The time between pumpings could then be used to determine this flow rate. And after reading this, I see I have to much time on my hands which could be used to address more pressing issues.

Stainless steel probes are a solid choice for durability. If you're thinking about power efficiency, integrating a sleep mode could really stretch out battery life.

Hello, I am reviving this as I upgraded my kernel to 7.0 and now have communications issues. I discovered that I had to force port speed when opening it up to the right speed, then it communicates a bit then nothing... driver is ch341 any idea ?

Nice work @Kokosnoot I think you could use #define MY_RFM69_IRQ_PIN 2 #define MY_RFM69_IRQ_NUM digitalPinToInterrupt(MY_RFM69_IRQ_PIN) This should convert the pin number to interrupt number automatically.

Hi, The sensor has a lux setting you can adjust to block triggering during daylight, but I just add an "after sunset" condition to my automation script to prevent daylight triggering. [image: 1778010220665-pir-settings.png] On AliExpress: PIR no base PIR with base

nice! I'm happy that there is another radio to use

Start with a simple communication method like Bluetooth or Wi-Fi on your sensor platform, use something like Arduino/ESP32 with a mobile app (e.g., Flutter or React Native), send data via APIs or Bluetooth, and design your platform to expose readable data and basic control commands for the app.