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  1. Home
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  3. $8 Lamp (Outlet) "Smart Plug" Module

$8 Lamp (Outlet) "Smart Plug" Module

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  • D dakipro

    out of the curiosity, what is downside of powering the relay entire time?
    that is how (all) wall switches work out of the box, you press the button and they turn on/off by powering the relay (all the time).
    I think that they work quite reliably when it comes to keeping power to the reley

    dbemowskD Offline
    dbemowskD Offline
    dbemowsk
    wrote on last edited by
    #98

    @dakipro I wouldn't say that ALL wall switches work that way. And when you say (all) wall switches, what are you referring to? Standard (non automated) wall switches don't use relays. Also, most if not all of the X10 relay modules and wall switches that I have use latching relays.

    Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
    Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

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    • D Offline
      D Offline
      dakipro
      wrote on last edited by
      #99

      I meant these typical automated/controlled wall switches mentioned in the topic http://www.nexa.se/vara-produkter/system-nexa/mottagare-paav/eycr-2300
      I opened 6-7 different ones to find the right casing for some projects, and they all had "regular" relay that goes back when the power is off (thus being powered the whole time). Of course I didn't open every single one of them, that is why I put (all) in parentheses.
      I am also not the expert on the relay topic, that is why I asked what is the downside :)

      C: OpenHAB2 with node-red on linux laptop
      GW: Arduino Nano - W5100 Ethernet, Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz mqtt
      GW: Arduino Mega, RFLink 433Mhz

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      • petewillP petewill

        Hi All,

        I created a second "Smart Plug" and thought I'd make a how to video this time. I have found them very useful for controlling various devices around the house. It's long but hopefully will be good for everyone including those not too familiar with MySensors. I know when I was first starting out I had little to no experience with any of this stuff and it was hard to piece it all together.

        http://youtu.be/oNpMDN4QqD8

        Here is the parts list (most of this stuff can be obtained from the my sensors store so don't forget to support them!)

        • 1 Gang Outlet Box
        • Outlet
        • Computer power cord or extension cord
        • Old cell phone charger or some other 5v power supply
        • Items from MySensors Store http://www.mysensors.org/store/
        • 22-24 gauge wire or similar (network cord)
        • Female Pin Header Connector Strip
        • Prototype Universal Printed Circuit Board
        • NRF24L01 Radio
        • Arduino Pro Mini
        • Capacitors (10uf and .1uf)
        • 3.3v voltage regulator
        • Female Dupont cables

        Here is a wiring diagram for the 3.3v regulator:
        Voltage Regulator Schematic.png

        0_1467849909161_Fritzing Smart Outlet.png

        Here is the code I used. I made a few customizations but the example "Relay Actuator" code can be used as well.
        https://codebender.cc/sketch:72358

        *edited to add wiring diagram

        Christian TollasC Offline
        Christian TollasC Offline
        Christian Tollas
        wrote on last edited by
        #100

        @petewill greetings sir.. Im getting error in your source code.. Maybe imported a wrong library.. Sir can i ask where did u get your MySensors.h library.. I get mine in codebender..

        My error is..

        MySensor gw;

        MySensor does not a nametype

        petewillP 1 Reply Last reply
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        • Christian TollasC Christian Tollas

          @petewill greetings sir.. Im getting error in your source code.. Maybe imported a wrong library.. Sir can i ask where did u get your MySensors.h library.. I get mine in codebender..

          My error is..

          MySensor gw;

          MySensor does not a nametype

          petewillP Offline
          petewillP Offline
          petewill
          Admin
          wrote on last edited by
          #101

          @Christian-Tollas This code has not yet been updated for MySensors version 2.0. I am still on version 1.5. When I finally upgrade my setup to 2.0 I will post the updated code but I'm not sure when that will be. If you want to go back to 1.5 for the time being that should work for you.

          My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

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          • D Offline
            D Offline
            dseveriano
            wrote on last edited by dseveriano
            #102

            Hello,

            I'm newbie at this and I'm trying to make this, but I think my hardware needs to be different sinces my home voltage is arround 220V, does this hardware can handle this voltage or do I need to buy other capacitators ?

            Thanks

            petewillP 1 Reply Last reply
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            • D dseveriano

              Hello,

              I'm newbie at this and I'm trying to make this, but I think my hardware needs to be different sinces my home voltage is arround 220V, does this hardware can handle this voltage or do I need to buy other capacitators ?

              Thanks

              petewillP Offline
              petewillP Offline
              petewill
              Admin
              wrote on last edited by
              #103

              @dseveriano as always you need to be very careful when using these voltages. That being said, this should work without any other hardware except for a phone charger rated for 220 (which I believe most are). The relay I used was rated for 10A 250VAC. I wouldn't go as high as 10A though.

              My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

              D 1 Reply Last reply
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              • petewillP petewill

                @dseveriano as always you need to be very careful when using these voltages. That being said, this should work without any other hardware except for a phone charger rated for 220 (which I believe most are). The relay I used was rated for 10A 250VAC. I wouldn't go as high as 10A though.

                D Offline
                D Offline
                dseveriano
                wrote on last edited by
                #104

                @petewill Thank you, just one more question!
                What board is that, the red one where the relay is ? Is that necessary or can I put the relay in the same board ?

                petewillP 1 Reply Last reply
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                • D dseveriano

                  @petewill Thank you, just one more question!
                  What board is that, the red one where the relay is ? Is that necessary or can I put the relay in the same board ?

                  petewillP Offline
                  petewillP Offline
                  petewill
                  Admin
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #105

                  @dseveriano Sorry, I'm not sure what you're asking. What board are you referring to?

                  My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

                  D 1 Reply Last reply
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                  • petewillP petewill

                    @dseveriano Sorry, I'm not sure what you're asking. What board are you referring to?

                    D Offline
                    D Offline
                    dseveriano
                    wrote on last edited by dseveriano
                    #106

                    @petewill Sorry the board I was refering was the relay board!!
                    Regarding the current detection module wich one do you recommend ?

                    petewillP 1 Reply Last reply
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                    • D dseveriano

                      @petewill Sorry the board I was refering was the relay board!!
                      Regarding the current detection module wich one do you recommend ?

                      petewillP Offline
                      petewillP Offline
                      petewill
                      Admin
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #107

                      @dseveriano Yes, the red board is the relay board which will control your 220V power.
                      I haven't done much with current detecting but the module I was playing with was the ACS712. I found that even when no power was running through it there was still a few watts reported. Maybe that's a simple fix but I never really looked into it.

                      My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

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                      • jeremushkaJ Offline
                        jeremushkaJ Offline
                        jeremushka
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #108

                        Did you integrate power meter function to your systeme?

                        petewillP 1 Reply Last reply
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                        • jeremushkaJ jeremushka

                          Did you integrate power meter function to your systeme?

                          petewillP Offline
                          petewillP Offline
                          petewill
                          Admin
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #109

                          @jeremushka I haven't done it on the smart outlet but I did do it on my "Whole House Fan" project. You can check out the code from that if you're interested. Here is a link to the video if you wanted to check that out: https://youtu.be/KVsUe7sOCPo
                          Also, just make sure you check out the specs on the acs712 and don't pass through more current than is safe. I don't remember the specs off the top of my head but I knew my whole house fan was safe because of what it would be drawing

                          My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

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