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CNC PCB milling

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  • NeverDieN NeverDie

    @andrew said in CNC PCB milling:

    it is also possible to replace the spindle with laser module,

    Speaking of this, I read that you can black spray paint your copper clad PCB material and then laser ablate the copper you want to remove. I don't know what kind of wattage would be required to do that though. However, I imagine you could maybe get finer mil isolation widths doing it that way? I think there might even be some youtube videos on it.

    andrewA Offline
    andrewA Offline
    andrew
    wrote on last edited by
    #13

    @neverdie it depends on your laser focus and spot size.
    to my "taste" that black spray solution is pretty rudimentary. you can use a small power laser (or stronger lasers with pwm control, which is basically a feature for a lot of cnc controller board as well) with photoresist pcb instead.
    you can buy single or double pcbs with photoresist layer pre-applied, but you can do it at home as well with spray or with dry film.

    NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
    1
    • andrewA andrew

      @neverdie it depends on your laser focus and spot size.
      to my "taste" that black spray solution is pretty rudimentary. you can use a small power laser (or stronger lasers with pwm control, which is basically a feature for a lot of cnc controller board as well) with photoresist pcb instead.
      you can buy single or double pcbs with photoresist layer pre-applied, but you can do it at home as well with spray or with dry film.

      NeverDieN Offline
      NeverDieN Offline
      NeverDie
      Hero Member
      wrote on last edited by NeverDie
      #14

      @andrew Do you mean just removing the photoresist with the laser (not so interesting), or the underlying copper as well?

      Anyhow, I'm thinking it might avoid the leveling issue, since maybe the laser wouldn't be as sensitive to non-flatness? Or, is that where the "focus" comes into play, and so it still has to be considered?

      andrewA 1 Reply Last reply
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      • NeverDieN Offline
        NeverDieN Offline
        NeverDie
        Hero Member
        wrote on last edited by NeverDie
        #15

        OK, so at Jack's store, I can get one, with FedEx delivery, for <$200.
        https://www.aliexpress.com/item/cnc-2418-2500mw-laser-cnc-engraving-machine-Pcb-Milling-Machine-Wood-Carving-machine-diy-mini-cnc/32796872554.html?spm=2114.search0204.3.10.BfG38n&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_5000016_10130_10345_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_51102_10546_10340_5060016_10341_10548_10545_5130016_10541_10084_10083_10307_5690016_10539_5080015_10312_10059_10313_10314_10534_100031_10604_10603_10103_10605_10594_10596_10142_10107,searchweb201603_14,ppcSwitch_4_ppcChannel&algo_expid=b73f1c65-7df2-402a-9bea-c6b351741fac-1&algo_pvid=b73f1c65-7df2-402a-9bea-c6b351741fac&rmStoreLevelAB=0

        andrewA 1 Reply Last reply
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        • NeverDieN NeverDie

          @andrew Do you mean just removing the photoresist with the laser (not so interesting), or the underlying copper as well?

          Anyhow, I'm thinking it might avoid the leveling issue, since maybe the laser wouldn't be as sensitive to non-flatness? Or, is that where the "focus" comes into play, and so it still has to be considered?

          andrewA Offline
          andrewA Offline
          andrew
          wrote on last edited by
          #16

          @neverdie just to make the necessary uv exposure to the photoresist layer, then you still have to develop and etch it (see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SNkzoOvoD8 ).
          with strong lasers you can eliminate the copper as well (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZYVda4fC4k), but those are not in the hobby category.

          1 Reply Last reply
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          • NeverDieN NeverDie

            OK, so at Jack's store, I can get one, with FedEx delivery, for <$200.
            https://www.aliexpress.com/item/cnc-2418-2500mw-laser-cnc-engraving-machine-Pcb-Milling-Machine-Wood-Carving-machine-diy-mini-cnc/32796872554.html?spm=2114.search0204.3.10.BfG38n&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_5000016_10130_10345_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_51102_10546_10340_5060016_10341_10548_10545_5130016_10541_10084_10083_10307_5690016_10539_5080015_10312_10059_10313_10314_10534_100031_10604_10603_10103_10605_10594_10596_10142_10107,searchweb201603_14,ppcSwitch_4_ppcChannel&algo_expid=b73f1c65-7df2-402a-9bea-c6b351741fac-1&algo_pvid=b73f1c65-7df2-402a-9bea-c6b351741fac&rmStoreLevelAB=0

            andrewA Offline
            andrewA Offline
            andrew
            wrote on last edited by andrew
            #17

            @neverdie this is exactly the same as mine, even better, it has er11 bit mount on the spindle, which I just ordered for mine. I ordered mine from EU (it is still Chinese) to avoid the issues with the custom, but from China it is cheaper.

            NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
            1
            • andrewA andrew

              @neverdie this is exactly the same as mine, even better, it has er11 bit mount on the spindle, which I just ordered for mine. I ordered mine from EU (it is still Chinese) to avoid the issues with the custom, but from China it is cheaper.

              NeverDieN Offline
              NeverDieN Offline
              NeverDie
              Hero Member
              wrote on last edited by NeverDie
              #18

              @andrew Are you milling regular FR4? When last I looked into this, TheOtherMill recommended something a little different (don't remember what now, but I think it was some kind of coper cladded plastic substrate rather fiberglass). Not sure why. Maybe it's easier on the milling bits or something.

              andrewA 1 Reply Last reply
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              • NeverDieN NeverDie

                @andrew Are you milling regular FR4? When last I looked into this, TheOtherMill recommended something a little different (don't remember what now, but I think it was some kind of coper cladded plastic substrate rather fiberglass). Not sure why. Maybe it's easier on the milling bits or something.

                andrewA Offline
                andrewA Offline
                andrew
                wrote on last edited by
                #19

                @neverdie yes, I use standard FR4. if I remember correctly, I read some articles which sad that other PCB types could be more flatter (but the inaccurate flatness could be handled with the autoleveling) and those might not "eat" the carving bits that much. unfortunately I don't have experience with other types but FR4 PCBs.

                1 Reply Last reply
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                • andrewA Offline
                  andrewA Offline
                  andrew
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #20

                  just to have some related pictures in this tread as well, here are some on isolation routing, pcb outline milling and on some test results.

                  0_1512852639164_small_20170918_085220.jpg

                  0_1512852283772_small_20171101_210626.jpg

                  0_1512852428724_small_20171118_194840.jpg

                  0_1512852291326_small_20171118_202738.jpg

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                  • NeverDieN Offline
                    NeverDieN Offline
                    NeverDie
                    Hero Member
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #21

                    Well, I'm sold. I just ordered one. @andrew I hope you're still around after it arrives. :)

                    andrewA 1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • NeverDieN NeverDie

                      Well, I'm sold. I just ordered one. @andrew I hope you're still around after it arrives. :)

                      andrewA Offline
                      andrewA Offline
                      andrew
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #22

                      @neverdie I'll be here :)
                      you'll love the stuff, I bet for it.

                      in the meantime I'll try to finish a howto on the cnc assembly/setup and on other tricks, such as firmware upgrade (which is not officially documented).

                      I received the pack like the pics below, it took me two nights to assemble it.

                      I would recommend not to use the provided SW pack. or maybe just in a dedicated VM, without internet connection... who knows...

                      0_1512862442026_small_20170912_204114.jpg
                      0_1512862447860_small_20170912_204451.jpg
                      0_1512862451984_small_20170912_204505.jpg
                      0_1512862460337_small_20170912_204719.jpg

                      1 Reply Last reply
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                      • andrewA andrew

                        @neverdie just search for "cnc 2418" on ebay and you can find a lot. almost all of these are Chinese stuff, but works without any issue. based on your needs you can find bigger or smaller versions, such as cnc 1610 or cnc 3020.

                        the chosen one should be USB connected and GRBL firmware controlled (check it in the description), so you can use it with open source tools, such as bCNC (https://github.com/vlachoudis/bCNC), chilipeppr (chilipeppr.com/grbl). for isolation milling you should use flatcam (http://flatcam.org/) for the G code preparation based on the gerber and drill files exported from KiCAD/eagle/etc.

                        drill sets, milling bit sets and engraving bit sets could be ordered from China for couple of bucks only.
                        e.g.:

                        • drill bits: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-10-Pcs-0-3mm-1-2mm-Import-Carbide-PCB-Drill-Bits-Print-Circuit-Board/32717739217.html
                        • carving bits https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-10pcs-New-Mini-PCB-wood-drill-Bits-Tungsten-Steel-Carbide-PCB-CNC-drill-Bit-Milling/32702792947.html
                        • milling bits https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10Pcs-Set-1-8-0-8-3-175mm-Drill-Bits-Engraving-Cutter-Rotary-PCB-CNC-End/32774556522.html
                        NeverDieN Offline
                        NeverDieN Offline
                        NeverDie
                        Hero Member
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #23

                        @andrew said in CNC PCB milling:

                        carving bits https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-10pcs-New-Mini-PCB-wood-drill-Bits-Tungsten-Steel-Carbide-PCB-CNC-drill-Bit-Milling/32702792947.html

                        Which of the 6 "models" should I pick?

                        andrewA 1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • NeverDieN NeverDie

                          @andrew said in CNC PCB milling:

                          carving bits https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-10pcs-New-Mini-PCB-wood-drill-Bits-Tungsten-Steel-Carbide-PCB-CNC-drill-Bit-Milling/32702792947.html

                          Which of the 6 "models" should I pick?

                          andrewA Offline
                          andrewA Offline
                          andrew
                          wrote on last edited by andrew
                          #24

                          @neverdie it depends :)
                          for fine isolation routing I use 2001 bits (20 deg, 0.1 width), this gives you 0.1363970234mm (5.369961552mil) width at 0.05mm cutting/carving depth. the more sharped bits are more precise but more fragile as well.

                          for hole milling, outline milling I typically use 0.8mm end mill.

                          it is good to have multiple items from each different tools / sizes, so you can vary them, based on the needs, and replace them if necessary (broken or blunt tools).

                          NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • andrewA andrew

                            @neverdie it depends :)
                            for fine isolation routing I use 2001 bits (20 deg, 0.1 width), this gives you 0.1363970234mm (5.369961552mil) width at 0.05mm cutting/carving depth. the more sharped bits are more precise but more fragile as well.

                            for hole milling, outline milling I typically use 0.8mm end mill.

                            it is good to have multiple items from each different tools / sizes, so you can vary them, based on the needs, and replace them if necessary (broken or blunt tools).

                            NeverDieN Offline
                            NeverDieN Offline
                            NeverDie
                            Hero Member
                            wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                            #25

                            @andrew OK, so do you recommend getting one set of each model, or multiple sets of the two models you indicated? Or...?

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                            • NeverDieN Offline
                              NeverDieN Offline
                              NeverDie
                              Hero Member
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #26

                              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXxM4F_7KIk

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                              • NeverDieN Offline
                                NeverDieN Offline
                                NeverDie
                                Hero Member
                                wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                                #27

                                @andrew I'll probably buy these to mill unless you recommend getting something else: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/75x100x1-5mm-FR4-Copper-Clad-Laminate-Sheet-Circuit-Double-side-PCB-10X7-5cm/32750849179.html?spm=2114.search0204.3.58.zZsg7D&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_5000015_10151_10344_10068_10130_10345_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_51102_10546_10340_10341_10548_10545_5130015_10541_10084_10083_10307_5690015_10539_5080015_10312_10059_10313_10314_10534_100031_10604_10603_10103_10605_10594_5060015_10596_10142_10107,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_4_ppcChannel&algo_expid=2370c55b-79dc-485c-b61d-52453b31f1d1-7&algo_pvid=2370c55b-79dc-485c-b61d-52453b31f1d1&rmStoreLevelAB=0

                                Looking at reviews on Amazon, it seems that some boards use a bad adhesive, resulting in pads lifting during soldering. I don't know whether these use a good or a bad adhesive. I'd prefer to buy boards that are "known good" rather than roll the dice.

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                                • NeverDieN Offline
                                  NeverDieN Offline
                                  NeverDie
                                  Hero Member
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #28

                                  @andrew Anything else I should order while I'm at it?

                                  andrewA 1 Reply Last reply
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                                  • NeverDieN NeverDie

                                    @andrew Anything else I should order while I'm at it?

                                    andrewA Offline
                                    andrewA Offline
                                    andrew
                                    wrote on last edited by andrew
                                    #29

                                    @neverdie I would say, as for a starter kit you should have:

                                    • drill bit set from 0.3mm to 1.2mm, e.g. this, which I already mentioned before. for vias, through hole components you will use a couple from them. I recommend to have at least 2 pack from this. if you make any mistake (e.g. while moving the cnc head to the relative home without properly realigning the z axis after a tool change /yes, it happened with me :)/) then you can easily break a bit. so have a spare set, just in case...
                                    • 0.8mm end mills for slot milling, edge cuts and to mill holes which are bigger than your drill bits (e.g. mounting holes). the previously mentioned set is good, as you have multiple options for different tasks, but I still recommend to have some spare one from the 0.8mm end mill in advance.
                                    • same applies to the carving bit sets. buy one set with multiple size variants (in the given link it is "model 6"), and buy another which just contains 2001 bits (model 2) as these bits will be used the most.
                                    • PCBs. I usually buy mine from local stores, but your linked one seems to be fine. nothing special, single side or double sided FR4 PCBs, based on your needs (size, thickness). I use 1.6mm thick 1oz FR4 boards, others should work as well.

                                    you will/might need double sided adhesive tape, and a sacrificial layer for the cnc, to protect your cnc's bed. I applied a wood board cut for proper bed size for this purpose (see before / after pics below). when you drill holes or mill edges/slots then the drilling/milling tools should go through on your PCB, so there should be a sacrificial layer between your cnc's aluminium bed and the PCB. this layer should be replaced when it become very used.

                                    basically that is it, no rocket science :)

                                    0_1512898935341_small_20170917_185349.jpg
                                    0_1512898943501_small_20170917_190225.jpg

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                                    • dbemowskD Offline
                                      dbemowskD Offline
                                      dbemowsk
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #30

                                      I have been working on gathering parts to build either another 3D printer or CNC machine like this. I think I am sold on a CNC. A question I have on this is what kind of control board does this use? Is it just a standard RAMPS 1.4 board like ones used in 3D printers? Also, is that just a piece of MDF mounted for the build plate? Curious why you didn't just put some T-nuts with clamps on the V-slot plate? Is there an advantage to using the MDF?

                                      Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                                      Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                                      NeverDieN andrewA 3 Replies Last reply
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                                      • dbemowskD dbemowsk

                                        I have been working on gathering parts to build either another 3D printer or CNC machine like this. I think I am sold on a CNC. A question I have on this is what kind of control board does this use? Is it just a standard RAMPS 1.4 board like ones used in 3D printers? Also, is that just a piece of MDF mounted for the build plate? Curious why you didn't just put some T-nuts with clamps on the V-slot plate? Is there an advantage to using the MDF?

                                        NeverDieN Offline
                                        NeverDieN Offline
                                        NeverDie
                                        Hero Member
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #31

                                        @dbemowsk said in CNC PCB milling:

                                        Curious why you didn't just put some T-nuts with clamps on the V-slot plate? Is there an advantage to using the MDF?

                                        Without the sacrificial MDF material (where, presumably, MDF is flatter than ordinary wood), then when you drill through the PCB material, wouldn't you also be drilling into the v-slot support metal? i.e. presumably you need some kind of sacrificial layer, and the flatter the better.

                                        dbemowskD 1 Reply Last reply
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                                        • dbemowskD dbemowsk

                                          I have been working on gathering parts to build either another 3D printer or CNC machine like this. I think I am sold on a CNC. A question I have on this is what kind of control board does this use? Is it just a standard RAMPS 1.4 board like ones used in 3D printers? Also, is that just a piece of MDF mounted for the build plate? Curious why you didn't just put some T-nuts with clamps on the V-slot plate? Is there an advantage to using the MDF?

                                          NeverDieN Offline
                                          NeverDieN Offline
                                          NeverDie
                                          Hero Member
                                          wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                                          #32

                                          @dbemowsk said in CNC PCB milling:

                                          A question I have on this is what kind of control board does this use?

                                          One WoodPecker GRBL 0.9 controller and 3 stepper motor drivers:
                                          0_1512921107273_USB-port-cnc-engraving-machine-control-board-3-axis-control-laser-engraving-machine-board-GRBL-control.jpg
                                          https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Freeshipping-USB-port-cnc-engraving-machine-control-board-3-axis-control-laser-engraving-machine-board-GRBL/424291_32809235879.html?spm=2114.12010615.0.0.6d908f98CJc2us

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