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CNC PCB milling

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  • NeverDieN NeverDie

    Quoting DavidSohlstrom from a thread on a different forum (https://discuss.inventables.com/t/runout-of-24v-dc-spindle/9984/11) in reference to vibration:

    I've said it before and I'll say it again. This is a low cost DC motor that has a ER collet adapter attached to it. It is not a CNC spindle that incorporates the tool holder right into spindle with a minimum of stick out from the housing.
    There is no bearing preload and the bearings are low cost bearings that have a lot of slop in them.
    A bent motor shaft of just a couple of thou will cause a large run out at the tool.

    I notice that a lot of the available spindles are exactly that: a motor with an ER11 collet attached. So, the stickout is going to be greater. I haven't yet tried to find a proper CNC spindle like what he describes, where there's minimal stickout. In a perfect world, it sounds like that may be the way to go though.

    E Offline
    E Offline
    executivul
    wrote on last edited by
    #631

    @neverdie any half decent watercooled spindle should have the ER collet holder integrated. My 60k one has an ER8 and the default DC that came with the machine an ER11. Bought some ER high precision collets from ali, and some precision nuts and things got even better.

    NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
    1
    • NeverDieN Offline
      NeverDieN Offline
      NeverDie
      Hero Member
      wrote on last edited by
      #632

      This one would appear to fit @executivul 's criteria and also have a short stickout:
      https://www.aliexpress.com/item/800W-electric-water-cooled-spindle-220V-ER11-with-65MM-diameter-158MM-length-for-cnc-router/32641099025.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.8.23ac8afeEe3r4S&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10130_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10546_10340_10548_10341_10545_10084_10083_10618_10307_5711211_10313_10059_10534_100031_10103_10627_10626_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_5722415_5711313,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=da6db481-06cd-4131-b9a1-e7278ac9d3f2-1&algo_pvid=da6db481-06cd-4131-b9a1-e7278ac9d3f2&transAbTest=ae803_5&priceBeautifyAB=0

      It would seem to need some kind of controller to go with it though, plus a water pump, water tubing, and fittings and all of that. Definitely a major upgrade.

      E 1 Reply Last reply
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      • NeverDieN NeverDie

        This one would appear to fit @executivul 's criteria and also have a short stickout:
        https://www.aliexpress.com/item/800W-electric-water-cooled-spindle-220V-ER11-with-65MM-diameter-158MM-length-for-cnc-router/32641099025.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.8.23ac8afeEe3r4S&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10130_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10546_10340_10548_10341_10545_10084_10083_10618_10307_5711211_10313_10059_10534_100031_10103_10627_10626_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_5722415_5711313,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=da6db481-06cd-4131-b9a1-e7278ac9d3f2-1&algo_pvid=da6db481-06cd-4131-b9a1-e7278ac9d3f2&transAbTest=ae803_5&priceBeautifyAB=0

        It would seem to need some kind of controller to go with it though, plus a water pump, water tubing, and fittings and all of that. Definitely a major upgrade.

        E Offline
        E Offline
        executivul
        wrote on last edited by
        #633

        @neverdie that's ok. Beware you need a VFD for it (driving circuit) and it's bettery to buy as a kit so they match, my 2c

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        • E executivul

          @neverdie any half decent watercooled spindle should have the ER collet holder integrated. My 60k one has an ER8 and the default DC that came with the machine an ER11. Bought some ER high precision collets from ali, and some precision nuts and things got even better.

          NeverDieN Offline
          NeverDieN Offline
          NeverDie
          Hero Member
          wrote on last edited by
          #634

          @executivul said in CNC PCB milling:

          Bought some ER high precision collets from ali, and some precision nuts and things got even better.

          How can tell you tell if the collet and nuts are "high precision" or not?

          1 Reply Last reply
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          • E Offline
            E Offline
            executivul
            wrote on last edited by
            #635

            You can tell by the listing title or after doing some tests either with a dial gauge or by running it and listening.

            Beware 2: diameter, my 3040 came with 53mm spindle holder, single piece with z carriage, so the 48mm only needed a 3d printed sleeve, but to add a 63mm or 80mm diameter spindle some heavy mods were needed so that's one of the reasons I didn't go with them

            Beware 3: weight, the frame must support it without complaining, z drop, backlash or whatever

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            • E Offline
              E Offline
              executivul
              wrote on last edited by executivul
              #636

              My 10^5*2c: get a 6040cnc with supported rails and a 0.8-2kw water cooled spindle, will serve you good for anything from pcb to alu or bronze milling, even some light steel work on the 2kw one and will save you a lot of hassle in the long run.

              LE. 3020 and 3040 don't have supported rails and many don't even have ballscrews

              And if you're really anal about it get the ballscrew frame only from rattm on ebay, a set of hybrid servos, a spindle+vfd+pump, a controller of your choice and you can say you have the best tool in the entry class of router cncs.

              NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
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              • E executivul

                My 10^5*2c: get a 6040cnc with supported rails and a 0.8-2kw water cooled spindle, will serve you good for anything from pcb to alu or bronze milling, even some light steel work on the 2kw one and will save you a lot of hassle in the long run.

                LE. 3020 and 3040 don't have supported rails and many don't even have ballscrews

                And if you're really anal about it get the ballscrew frame only from rattm on ebay, a set of hybrid servos, a spindle+vfd+pump, a controller of your choice and you can say you have the best tool in the entry class of router cncs.

                NeverDieN Offline
                NeverDieN Offline
                NeverDie
                Hero Member
                wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                #637

                @executivul Maybe I've missed it, but none of the Chinese 6040's I've seen have had supported rails. They all seem to require that as some kind of DIY "upgrade".

                For that reason, I've been considering a c-beam type design. There exists a relatively cheap Chinese clone of that:
                https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/C-Beam-machine-large-Mechanical-Kit-DIY-C-Beam-machine-Large-bundle-C-Beam-Frame-kit/1752067_32846185306.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.55bc1dafCeSt8d

                or maybe the WorkBee, which seems to be an upgrade to the OX CNC (though I'd prefer something where the screw holes are already tapped):
                https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/OX-CNC-Upgrade-Version-WorkBee-CNC-Router-Machine-CNC-Mechanical-Kit-with-Nema-23-Stepper-Motors/1752067_32850266842.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.36611dafYZdcH4

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                • NeverDieN NeverDie

                  @executivul Maybe I've missed it, but none of the Chinese 6040's I've seen have had supported rails. They all seem to require that as some kind of DIY "upgrade".

                  For that reason, I've been considering a c-beam type design. There exists a relatively cheap Chinese clone of that:
                  https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/C-Beam-machine-large-Mechanical-Kit-DIY-C-Beam-machine-Large-bundle-C-Beam-Frame-kit/1752067_32846185306.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.55bc1dafCeSt8d

                  or maybe the WorkBee, which seems to be an upgrade to the OX CNC (though I'd prefer something where the screw holes are already tapped):
                  https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/OX-CNC-Upgrade-Version-WorkBee-CNC-Router-Machine-CNC-Mechanical-Kit-with-Nema-23-Stepper-Motors/1752067_32850266842.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.36611dafYZdcH4

                  E Offline
                  E Offline
                  executivul
                  wrote on last edited by executivul
                  #638

                  @neverdie please search for the 6040 frame only from "rattm motor", it's not stated I believe but you can clearly see in the photos with the bed beams removed that y rails are supported. X are not, but they are high diameter and pretty stiff for 40cm wide span.

                  Imho wheels on rails will never ever ever be as stiff and have less flex than the lousiest linear bearing. Wheels on rails are for printers and lasers.

                  NeverDieN 2 Replies Last reply
                  1
                  • E executivul

                    @neverdie please search for the 6040 frame only from "rattm motor", it's not stated I believe but you can clearly see in the photos with the bed beams removed that y rails are supported. X are not, but they are high diameter and pretty stiff for 40cm wide span.

                    Imho wheels on rails will never ever ever be as stiff and have less flex than the lousiest linear bearing. Wheels on rails are for printers and lasers.

                    NeverDieN Offline
                    NeverDieN Offline
                    NeverDie
                    Hero Member
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #639

                    @executivul You're right:
                    alt text

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                    • E executivul

                      @neverdie please search for the 6040 frame only from "rattm motor", it's not stated I believe but you can clearly see in the photos with the bed beams removed that y rails are supported. X are not, but they are high diameter and pretty stiff for 40cm wide span.

                      Imho wheels on rails will never ever ever be as stiff and have less flex than the lousiest linear bearing. Wheels on rails are for printers and lasers.

                      NeverDieN Offline
                      NeverDieN Offline
                      NeverDie
                      Hero Member
                      wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                      #640

                      @executivul said in CNC PCB milling:

                      Imho wheels on rails will never ever ever be as stiff and have less flex than the lousiest linear bearing. Wheels on rails are for printers and lasers.

                      Even in the case of the Rattm Motors 6040, where the z-axis is hanging off an X-axis that is dangling by unsupported smooth rod? Is it still better even then?

                      E 1 Reply Last reply
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                      • NeverDieN NeverDie

                        @executivul said in CNC PCB milling:

                        Imho wheels on rails will never ever ever be as stiff and have less flex than the lousiest linear bearing. Wheels on rails are for printers and lasers.

                        Even in the case of the Rattm Motors 6040, where the z-axis is hanging off an X-axis that is dangling by unsupported smooth rod? Is it still better even then?

                        E Offline
                        E Offline
                        executivul
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #641

                        @neverdie it might be better than a rigid x axis aluminium profile dangling on some wheels all together. Then comes the profile joining piece dance.
                        On the cnczone forums people go like: linear rails are the best, round bars are good, wheels on rails are for toys. That is for normal milling on a small machine. These things are routers by the way, real mills are taig style and are small size and meant for steel and heavy metal milling (no pun intended). For wood, plastic, soft stuff it might be acceptable though.
                        For pcbs you need high precision, flatness, high rpm etc.
                        For wood you need large size, think of table or door pieces. Tolerances are not so tight. You won't go like: look! Your door engraving is 0.1mm off in that corner!
                        For metal you need precision, high rigidity and power at lower spindle speed.

                        The classic ebay cnc is a good all around tool but excels at nothing 😁

                        NeverDieN 2 Replies Last reply
                        1
                        • E executivul

                          @neverdie it might be better than a rigid x axis aluminium profile dangling on some wheels all together. Then comes the profile joining piece dance.
                          On the cnczone forums people go like: linear rails are the best, round bars are good, wheels on rails are for toys. That is for normal milling on a small machine. These things are routers by the way, real mills are taig style and are small size and meant for steel and heavy metal milling (no pun intended). For wood, plastic, soft stuff it might be acceptable though.
                          For pcbs you need high precision, flatness, high rpm etc.
                          For wood you need large size, think of table or door pieces. Tolerances are not so tight. You won't go like: look! Your door engraving is 0.1mm off in that corner!
                          For metal you need precision, high rigidity and power at lower spindle speed.

                          The classic ebay cnc is a good all around tool but excels at nothing 😁

                          NeverDieN Offline
                          NeverDieN Offline
                          NeverDie
                          Hero Member
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #642

                          @executivul
                          How thick is the aluminum that such a 6040 machine could mill?

                          E 1 Reply Last reply
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                          • NeverDieN NeverDie

                            @executivul
                            How thick is the aluminum that such a 6040 machine could mill?

                            E Offline
                            E Offline
                            executivul
                            wrote on last edited by executivul
                            #643

                            @neverdie you must use a chipload calculator according to your spindle power at requested rpm, tool diameter and tool profile. Stock can be as thick as you want, the machine has about 100mm of z travel, you mill in multiple passes anyway so milling depth per pass is based on the results from calculator, experience or many broken tools.

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            1
                            • dbemowskD Offline
                              dbemowskD Offline
                              dbemowsk
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #644

                              What end mill bits should I get for doing PCB work? Do you just use a V bit and a drill?

                              Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                              Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                              NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
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                              • dbemowskD dbemowsk

                                What end mill bits should I get for doing PCB work? Do you just use a V bit and a drill?

                                NeverDieN Offline
                                NeverDieN Offline
                                NeverDie
                                Hero Member
                                wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                                #645

                                @dbemowsk said in CNC PCB milling:

                                Do you just use a V bit and a drill?

                                Yup

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                                • NeverDieN Offline
                                  NeverDieN Offline
                                  NeverDie
                                  Hero Member
                                  wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                                  #646

                                  Interesting way to make an inexpensive closed-loop stepper motor:
                                  https://youtu.be/s2dpCpUqGnE

                                  I think a better way to do it would be to directly couple the encoder to a dual-shaft stepper motor, but that would, of course, mean purchasing a new stepper motor. Nonetheless, these small stepper's are pretty cheap.

                                  The other way to do it with the existing single shaft stepper but without a belt might be to use a magnetic encoder, but I can't say that I've tried that, so I'm not sure how hard the retrofit would be.

                                  Also, I guess the main point in doing this would be to hotrod your CNC, to make it move faster without skipping steps. i.e. you probably don't absolutely need to hotrod your CNC.

                                  dbemowskD 1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • NeverDieN NeverDie

                                    Interesting way to make an inexpensive closed-loop stepper motor:
                                    https://youtu.be/s2dpCpUqGnE

                                    I think a better way to do it would be to directly couple the encoder to a dual-shaft stepper motor, but that would, of course, mean purchasing a new stepper motor. Nonetheless, these small stepper's are pretty cheap.

                                    The other way to do it with the existing single shaft stepper but without a belt might be to use a magnetic encoder, but I can't say that I've tried that, so I'm not sure how hard the retrofit would be.

                                    Also, I guess the main point in doing this would be to hotrod your CNC, to make it move faster without skipping steps. i.e. you probably don't absolutely need to hotrod your CNC.

                                    dbemowskD Offline
                                    dbemowskD Offline
                                    dbemowsk
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #647

                                    @neverdie said in CNC PCB milling:

                                    I think a better way to do it would be to directly couple the encoder to a dual-shaft stepper motor, but that would, of course, mean purchasing a new stepper motor. Nonetheless, these small stepper's are pretty cheap.

                                    I never looked, but do they make a dual notched pulley? Then you would only need to buy a pulley vs an entire stepper.

                                    Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                                    Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                                    NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • dbemowskD dbemowsk

                                      @neverdie said in CNC PCB milling:

                                      I think a better way to do it would be to directly couple the encoder to a dual-shaft stepper motor, but that would, of course, mean purchasing a new stepper motor. Nonetheless, these small stepper's are pretty cheap.

                                      I never looked, but do they make a dual notched pulley? Then you would only need to buy a pulley vs an entire stepper.

                                      NeverDieN Offline
                                      NeverDieN Offline
                                      NeverDie
                                      Hero Member
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #648

                                      @dbemowsk said in CNC PCB milling:

                                      a dual notched pulley

                                      I don't know what that is.

                                      dbemowskD 1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • E executivul

                                        @neverdie it might be better than a rigid x axis aluminium profile dangling on some wheels all together. Then comes the profile joining piece dance.
                                        On the cnczone forums people go like: linear rails are the best, round bars are good, wheels on rails are for toys. That is for normal milling on a small machine. These things are routers by the way, real mills are taig style and are small size and meant for steel and heavy metal milling (no pun intended). For wood, plastic, soft stuff it might be acceptable though.
                                        For pcbs you need high precision, flatness, high rpm etc.
                                        For wood you need large size, think of table or door pieces. Tolerances are not so tight. You won't go like: look! Your door engraving is 0.1mm off in that corner!
                                        For metal you need precision, high rigidity and power at lower spindle speed.

                                        The classic ebay cnc is a good all around tool but excels at nothing 😁

                                        NeverDieN Offline
                                        NeverDieN Offline
                                        NeverDie
                                        Hero Member
                                        wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                                        #649

                                        @executivul
                                        This guy bought a 6040 CNC with supported y-axis rails (just like the RATTM one), but starting at time index 4:52 he discusses the "well known problem" of flexing on the 6040's unsupported x-axis when milling aluminum:
                                        https://youtu.be/6a57KtmIu-4

                                        He concludes that upgrades to the 6040 (e.g. possibly a supported x-axis rail) will be necessary.

                                        It's just a pitty that an inexpensive, already "upgraded," 6040 isn't for sale. Instead, it becomes a DIY quest.

                                        In fact, this guy did do the x-axis supported rail upgrade, but it solved only 50% of the problem:
                                        https://youtu.be/ABLXVCkXmpg

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                                        • NeverDieN Offline
                                          NeverDieN Offline
                                          NeverDie
                                          Hero Member
                                          wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                                          #650

                                          @executivul
                                          Do you suppose that linear rails, rather than supported rods, would fix this twisting problem that people seem to be having?

                                          i.e. Notionally, something like:
                                          https://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-Steel-MGN12H-Linear-Sliding-Rail-Block-Tool-250-550mm-CNC-3D-Printer/382360155951?var=651145928342&hash=item590670f72f:m:mah05n6MWl2QkZTLIZW2vJQ
                                          that's made out of steel.

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