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Sensors error

ek.wik last edited by

How would you call an error that occurs when the measure the same parameter at the same point by the same sensor type but get slightly different results and it is not noise, but maybe manufacturing defect or calibration, we don't know. Inherent sensor error?
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hard-shovel last edited by @ek.wik

@ek-wik you are describing sensor repeatability,
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bjacobse last edited by

hysteresis
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=hysteresis&t=canonical&atb=v79-4&ia=definition
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@NeverDie Yea, I think I knew you upversioned the silkscreen. I think I remember you commenting on it. Looks pretty. BUT in my effort to add to the community, since I typed it for my self for my V001 boards, I thought I'd share it incase there is anybody like me with V001. I like the V003 upgrades, specially that reset bypass via as discussed with @alphaHotel . Maybe I'll try it. I've got so much into my little V001's (yours actually) that I just can't give-em up. When I get the boards rigged up with radios, GPS (on the USART bus) and SD Card reader (on the SPI bus with a different CS), I'll shoot and send a picture in the spirit of a party!
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I made this CR2032 coincell powered locator beacon using an nRF52805: It was my first experience using a TAG-CONNECT to make the programming connections. It's for that reason that I haven't yet attached the battery holder. The TAG-CONNEC provides power during programming (and debugging as well if so desired). I have the antenna hanging out over the edge, as per Nordic Semiconductor recommendations, so that it doesn't hover over the ground plane. However, that makes the overall footprint a bit larger, somewhat defeating the point of powering it with a CR2032. I may try making a smaller version where the antenna doesn't overhang just to see how much difference it does or doesn't make. For a device like this, I mostly care about reception rather than transmitting, so maybe for receiving such a change won't make much of a difference. Who makes the world's smallest nRF5x module?
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@NeverDie said in Bootloading a barebones arduino: You and a group of friends could sit around a table and pass bits and bytes to each other using an SPI communication protocol. Passing bits and bytes is probably more fun that sitting around a table and passing digs and barbs! I don't know: maybe my friends ARE binary! [Edit: I forgot to say anything about the content of your SPI protocol story. That was a great story; I feel badly for not thinking about the SPI connection at all. Now it is ingrained. ]
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What is also most interesting with zigbee is a very important number of devices, and low price of them compared to zwave for instance.
long-term usage of nRF24L01+ with PA: no reliable transmission
General Discussion • • quaxman

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I just remembered the key technique to getting the communications working smoothly. I do all my communication synchronously. That is as follows: The master device sends a message to a node. The send command returns a success or fail, but fail does not mean the message was not received, it means that an ACK was not received. The master waits a timeout period for a response. If there is no response, a second attempt is made. If there is a response, the data with the response is processed. If not, the node is ignored. After that transaction, the master repeats this process with the next node and for each node there after. A round-robin. If a node does not get a request from the master within a certain interval, it reboots itself. If the system power cycles, the nodes inundate the the master with DHCP requests. Because of so many requests, requests can be ignored or two nodes might receive the same network address (different from NodeID). Eventually, one node will get a valid network address and begin to communicate as expected. This reduces the network traffic and the probability of another node receiving a unique network address improves. Eventually, all nodes connect. "Eventually" can be many, many minutes. The tree structure of the network means that some nodes send data through other nodes. In asynchronous communication, a node may be trying to send data while another node is sending data through it. I may not be correct in this, but I think that it is possible that this will corrupt one or both data packets. This is why I do the round-robin communication. The master only has 5 (4?) usable addresses to receive data. Like computer DHCP, addresses can be reserved for specific NodeID's. For example, address 3 an be reserved for NodeID 31, then NodeID 22 can have a reserved address of 43, thus NodeID 22 will always send data through NodeID 31. (addresses are octal). The address 4444 is reserved; this is the address a node requesting an address uses. To increase the chance of getting a valid address, I put a delay in the first DHCP request based upon the NodeID. I put the NodeID in EEPROM address 0, as does MySensors. I have one program that sets the NodeID and then my program for all of my nodes is the same. Nodes that sleep must have the flag set (in the node software) that indicates no data can be passed through it from another node. All of these hoops are handled by the MySensors libraries, though I force the NodeID. This my impetus to use MySensors. I must wonder though, "How much overhead is there? Do I have enough memory for my code?" So far I haven't had a problem. OSD
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Thanks. I'll have to try them out. It is crazy how cheap it has become at least for small prototypes.
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@nagelc said in Most reliable "best" radio: Check out the Hammond 1551V1gY (vented) or 1151SNAP1GY (unvented). They look like they are about the same size. I've been using the vented ones for temp/humidity sensors. Not as ugly as most project boxes. Good find! I like the vented ones, as it look like they would let out a lot of sound.
Tips/Tricks for placing sensors above doors?
General Discussion • • kiesel

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In a previous house I had a wireless sensor that was cylindrical. I drilled a roughly 3/4" - 7/8" diameter hole in the doorframe and slide it in, so it wasn't at all visible when the door was closed. Because of the packaging and form factor, some exotic things, like that, are far easier to buy than build, though I suppose it would be within the grasp of someone with skills who was determined to make their own. Less exotic: if you made your sensor flat enough, you could hollow out the door molding and hide it inside of that. A properly designed door sensor could run off of a CR2032 coincell battery for 10+ years, so it's not such a wild idea.

Sensors error

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