Bathroom controller. It consist of a relaybox with a HLK 5v power source, it's hidden in the closet. Then I have realy to light, nightlight, mirrorheat, and extraction fan
And then the controller it self it's a Wemos D1 Mini Pro, Si7021 Temp/Hum, sensor and a PIR HC-SR501
3D file is created with Freecad, STL files are available here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890456
when compiling in Arduino IDEdo you remember to select correct Arduino board, Pro Mini and choose 3.3v 8MHz.
Tools->Board->"Arduino Pro or Pro Mini"
Tools->Board->Processor->3,3V 8MHz
Maybe if you forget this you will compile with wrong oscillator frequency and get wrong timings to your communication to DS18B20
Maybe a bit off-topic, but I use octoprint as server for my 3d printer, and use Domoticz as homeautomation server. I want to know when 3D print is done, so I created a node-red flow that connects this via MQTT, so domotics shows print progress...
https://www.domoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14021&p=162935#p162935
As I have updated my workshop, so I no longer sit at my family kitchen table, but instead have a man-cave, behind a sliding-door closet, next to the water-heater
Thank you Flopp
Now my wife will be a happy wife - since I will upgrade my ceiling lamp to be dimmable and she will have a happy husband since I can remote control the lamp when she forgets to switch it off - I think this is a win-win situation 
I copied ToniA's approach to get 5V from the Heatpump, and soldered wires to the IR detection circuit:
@hek said:
@vikasjee
We were thinking of releasing 2.0 when we were having the MySensors meetup/BBQ at my house 9th of July.
So using the term "release-party" is also valid here
Hi I was thinking if we should meet in Malmö (Sweden) for a 1 day afternoon BBQ and nerdy discussion about MySensor stuff?
I can invite for using our garden and the grill
either purchase a standard cheap kettle, and a wallplug, then you can switch on/off via this. Or else you need to create a device that can emulate a persons capacity touching
This guy used a floating pin on Arduino, and then set it to GND, maybe worth a try...
http://blog.theultimatelabs.com/2012/05/triggering-capacitive-touch-screen-with.html
Why?
the chip isn't cheap -and as I remember you MUST be a participating member of the Z-wave alliance were minimum fee us US$ 3000 per year
@MatiasV No-no, you need much more stuff before it will be "average" 
@alex28 As your critics reads for me as constructive feedback, then I will suggest for you to enable you to get a positive experience (I have been around Mysensors since May 2015) I use it with Domoticz as this is what I like
Anyway start with simple things, I have my Domoticz on a RPI attached to the serial gateway, it's simple and reliable and "easy" to debug
Make sure the gateway is working on your home automation, and then proceed to make 1 simple windows sensor
https://www.mysensors.org/build/binary
And then you can make additional sensors to your network. Please note that Domoticz is the controller, and hence it's Domoticz that will allow a sensor/node to be "added" to your network. The serial gateway is not having anything to do with "adding" nodes to your network, it's just a "dum" gateway moving data from the sensors to your homeautomations
Any other Homeautomation than Domoticz is equally good, if they have Mysensors support
To make your start easy:
And then I'm quite sure the Mysensors-community would like if you can support to update the documentation to become better for the next new persons that would like to start using Mysensors, so the frustration that have been around your start can be reduced for the future
@echi Basically it's quite simple, it's the whole device that needs to comply to the rules, and not ONLY the radio-part of your design.
so it's not possible to "buy" a radio approved RF IC and then add this to your own design, and then think this is adequate
@echi Have you checked the price for getting the FCC and radio approvals? it's quite expensive. As it's mandatory to have an independent test company to do actual test on your devices as a part of the documentation. Furthermore you need also to get country approvals (Notified Body) for several countries where you want to sell you product, fortunately as I recall EU only requires approvals in 1 country to be valid in the rest of EU countries.
This link is from 2014, but gives you an idea what kind of approvals that you MUST get prior selling your stuff
https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-average-cost-to-get-FCC-and-CE-certification-for-a-very-simple-electronic-gadget?share=1
@skywatch said in Is it worth it adding a reset circuit to MySensors nodes?:
@bjacobse Good point, but what happens if it freezes during sleep?
It's NOT possible, it's in sleep, it's an integrated part of the IC design, and such a bug would have been found many years ago. The ATmeag328 will go into a well defined state, which is sleep, until it's getting woken up, by an interrupt or a timer.
Naturally the registers are required to be setup up properly
As I wrote, you SHALL disable WDT (watchdog) prior entering sleepmode, and after wakeup then you enable WDT again, else the WDT will reset the Atmega328 while you are in sleeep
ATMeag328 documentation:
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/Atmel-7810-Automotive-Microcontrollers-ATmega328P_Datasheet.pdf
Just wondering why not use Watchdog?, it's supposed to restart MCU when it freese.
The watchdog shall be disabled before entering sleep state and enabled when wake up.
I would recommend to set the watchdog to max time=8seconds. then you only need to clear the wdt every 7 sec
As I recall the default bootloader in Arduino, doesn't have the WDT enabled, so you shall flash Optiboot or similar bootloader
I searched for an example:
https://www.electronicwings.com/arduino/watchdog-in-arduino
do as Zboblamont suggest.
I have my distance sensor to measure in a loop until 3 last measurements are equal. Unfortunately it's a few years ago so I no longer have the code
@GarethBirkett
no worries man, you described somehow how it functioned I just newer heard of a oil vaporizing AGA cooker/stove
somehow your description is a bit misleading:
"The oil flow is controlled by an electric regulator and is either high fire, or low fire. The default is low fire, but when the thermostat detects that the temperature has dropped it sends a signal to the regulator to turn to high fire, when the temperature is reached it switches back to low fire and so on maintaining the temperature range."
you are linking to a thermostat, with a connector of 2 pins.
so the AGA must have a low fire at all times, and when the thermostat are activated (when temp is lower than set temp on the knob) it start high fire.
so basically you just need a relay that can withstand the current of the oilburner. check on the current thermostat it must state the current it can withstand, then a DS18b20 and an Ardino connected to your favorite HomeAutomation controller (domoticz, homeassistand, HomeSeer)
And then you can swith on/off from homeautomation from your phone
Just remember to create the code so you measure temperature and relay must switch OFF at a set temperature so you wont overheat the AGA and potentially burn your house down
I would though image price gets too high if those are sold as pre-assembled. (These devices are hand made, and not manufactured by a real manufacturing line that manufactures thousands per day) Are you able to solder? I think most of the guys developing HW here are willing to sell off their PCB, so you "only" have to solder connectors and a few lead through components to the PCB to assemble the PCB together.
If you are not able to handle soldering, then search for the nearest Fablab in your area, as there are skilled people that most likely are willing to teach you how to solder: https://www.fablabs.io/
This could be a good start:
https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2740/easy-newbie-pcb-for-mysensors
More good stuff to be found via this link:
https://forum.mysensors.org/category/30/openhardware-io