Bathroom controller. It consist of a relaybox with a HLK 5v power source, it's hidden in the closet. Then I have realy to light, nightlight, mirrorheat, and extraction fan
And then the controller it self it's a Wemos D1 Mini Pro, Si7021 Temp/Hum, sensor and a PIR HC-SR501
3D file is created with Freecad, STL files are available here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890456
when compiling in Arduino IDEdo you remember to select correct Arduino board, Pro Mini and choose 3.3v 8MHz.
Tools->Board->"Arduino Pro or Pro Mini"
Tools->Board->Processor->3,3V 8MHz
Maybe if you forget this you will compile with wrong oscillator frequency and get wrong timings to your communication to DS18B20
Maybe a bit off-topic, but I use octoprint as server for my 3d printer, and use Domoticz as homeautomation server. I want to know when 3D print is done, so I created a node-red flow that connects this via MQTT, so domotics shows print progress...
https://www.domoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14021&p=162935#p162935
As I have updated my workshop, so I no longer sit at my family kitchen table, but instead have a man-cave, behind a sliding-door closet, next to the water-heater
Thank you Flopp
Now my wife will be a happy wife - since I will upgrade my ceiling lamp to be dimmable and she will have a happy husband since I can remote control the lamp when she forgets to switch it off - I think this is a win-win situation 
I copied ToniA's approach to get 5V from the Heatpump, and soldered wires to the IR detection circuit:
@hek said:
@vikasjee
We were thinking of releasing 2.0 when we were having the MySensors meetup/BBQ at my house 9th of July.
So using the term "release-party" is also valid here
Hi I was thinking if we should meet in Malmö (Sweden) for a 1 day afternoon BBQ and nerdy discussion about MySensor stuff?
I can invite for using our garden and the grill
either purchase a standard cheap kettle, and a wallplug, then you can switch on/off via this. Or else you need to create a device that can emulate a persons capacity touching
This guy used a floating pin on Arduino, and then set it to GND, maybe worth a try...
http://blog.theultimatelabs.com/2012/05/triggering-capacitive-touch-screen-with.html
Why?
the chip isn't cheap -and as I remember you MUST be a participating member of the Z-wave alliance were minimum fee us US$ 3000 per year
@malachite666 said in Please help with rspro itx 3d printer:
RSPRO itx printer
It looks like it's a private label name, and the manufacturer is Kora3d, you need to talk to those people and if you can't get any further support, don't waste any more money on this and buy yourself an Iprusa and get support from all the people that owns such a device
https://www.kora3d.com/products/kora-pro-3d-printer-range/kora-pro-3d-pc-printer
@skywatch
I'm amazed that you made it work, which is good in your case
But in most cases it might not work, and your MCU will crash RAM/stack and you will have troubles to understand what goes wrong.
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/146298/what-happens-when-microcontrollers-run-out-of-ram
So to be on se the safe side for most people, then buy 328 as it from Mouser only cost 1,92€ and the 168 costs1,40€ for the cheapest variant of each, so for a hobbyist this price is nothing compared to the troubles you might have. Naturally if you have production and manufactures thousands devices this price different is extra money in your pocket
I'm sure ATmega 168 have too little memory to be used for run the mysensors code... so don't buy a ATmega168
ATMega 168
Program Memory Size (KB) 16
SRAM (B) 1,024
Data EEPROM/HEF (bytes) 512
ATMega 328
Program Memory Size (KB) 32
SRAM (B) 2,048
Data EEPROM/HEF (bytes) 1024
@Jasonkeel
The green is the flex PCB,, as you can se how it' turn 90degree a few times
Inside Hearing aids, the PCB are "mainly" only flexible PCB as the PCB must bend and follow the mechanical shape, think this picture gives an idea
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1902167/Oticon-Aurora-Minirite-312-T-Rc.html
@monte
Yes, even that the wifi module is certified, does not conclude that your design that uses the certified module is approved and sellable.
so yes you need to certify your own design
An old topic about the approval is discussed in this link
https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/11060/pre-assembled-sensor-modules/8
And to make it more expensive/difficult, you need different approvals for different regions in the world, you can read a bit more from this link:
https://www.eurofins.com/electrical-and-electronics/services/testing/radio-wireless/
Regardless if this is just an ad for his own work, selling this is illegal, as all devices within EU, that contains a RF transmitter MUST be certified by a "notified body"
So you shall pay for a independent company to test your device and provide a test report and then you must label this info to your device...
I trust this have NOT been done, until documentation proves me wrong
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Notified_body
And if you want to sell in US then they require a similar approval
This does NOT apply for prototype devices... which is what we do when we solder electronics ourselves 
How does your function work with 5 samples and throws away errors?
Why not take measures until you get 3 or 5 measures that are identical, and then use this as your measurement?
@markjgabb
If you want to run on batteries, which is a good option, then just make a reading every 10sec, and make the MCU sleep and save precious battery. It's not needed to measure each pulse every second
Pseudo code:
wakeup after 10sec
wait until you get a reading, unless you have waited 5 sec (timeout to save battery)
send pulse detection
sleep