Bathroom controller. It consist of a relaybox with a HLK 5v power source, it's hidden in the closet. Then I have realy to light, nightlight, mirrorheat, and extraction fan
And then the controller it self it's a Wemos D1 Mini Pro, Si7021 Temp/Hum, sensor and a PIR HC-SR501
3D file is created with Freecad, STL files are available here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890456
when compiling in Arduino IDEdo you remember to select correct Arduino board, Pro Mini and choose 3.3v 8MHz.
Tools->Board->"Arduino Pro or Pro Mini"
Tools->Board->Processor->3,3V 8MHz
Maybe if you forget this you will compile with wrong oscillator frequency and get wrong timings to your communication to DS18B20
Maybe a bit off-topic, but I use octoprint as server for my 3d printer, and use Domoticz as homeautomation server. I want to know when 3D print is done, so I created a node-red flow that connects this via MQTT, so domotics shows print progress...
https://www.domoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14021&p=162935#p162935
As I have updated my workshop, so I no longer sit at my family kitchen table, but instead have a man-cave, behind a sliding-door closet, next to the water-heater
Thank you Flopp
Now my wife will be a happy wife - since I will upgrade my ceiling lamp to be dimmable and she will have a happy husband since I can remote control the lamp when she forgets to switch it off - I think this is a win-win situation 
I copied ToniA's approach to get 5V from the Heatpump, and soldered wires to the IR detection circuit:
@hek said:
@vikasjee
We were thinking of releasing 2.0 when we were having the MySensors meetup/BBQ at my house 9th of July.
So using the term "release-party" is also valid here
Hi I was thinking if we should meet in Malmö (Sweden) for a 1 day afternoon BBQ and nerdy discussion about MySensor stuff?
I can invite for using our garden and the grill
either purchase a standard cheap kettle, and a wallplug, then you can switch on/off via this. Or else you need to create a device that can emulate a persons capacity touching
This guy used a floating pin on Arduino, and then set it to GND, maybe worth a try...
http://blog.theultimatelabs.com/2012/05/triggering-capacitive-touch-screen-with.html
Why?
the chip isn't cheap -and as I remember you MUST be a participating member of the Z-wave alliance were minimum fee us US$ 3000 per year
@tbowmo
Looks really good, hope you will spend many good hours doing some fun stuff 
Thank you for the nice compliments, but I'm not an expert, I just know something, and listen to our technicians at work. I work for a hearing aid company, in our PCB manufacturing plant
Yes hydrophobic coating, the machine is quite expensive, so a now retired technican made the machine himself, (He is also a quite bright guy), anyway a similar machine can be bought from Europlasma https://www.europlasma.net/products.html
as I understand the gas (teflon I think is used as gas) is sprayed inside a vacuum chamber, and then the hearing aids with electronics are rotating (Like a slow tumblking washingmachine),
and then after a while not sure but about 20-25min the process is finished.
@NeverDie
We don't use conformal coating. But we use hydrofob coating of the whole device, so w avoid water ingress through the plastic box
Those few IC that we dip in flux, is because they have solderballs on the IC from supplier, the remaining components will have solderpaste on each solderpad in PCB.
We don't "remove" flux, we just forward the PCB on conveyor belts into heating oven (REHM reflow solder oven, with Nitrogen gas, to get better solderability as there will be less oxygen interefering during soldering in oven)
We always "bake" PCB to get humidity out, and then afterwards those are stored in special non-humid cabinets until we take them out for SMD manufacturing
typically baked for two hours at 105 – 120 °C
http://www.surfacemountprocess.com/uploads/5/4/1/9/54196839/ipc-1601a.pdf
Those days while I worked for Nokia (which is at least 10 years ago), and I were at our factory plant in Beijing, some of our local chinese Nokia guys, bought Arduino stuff from Taobao and at this time, Taobao was much cheaper and quality was perfect
regardless if those are counterfeit or they are production rejects, selling those as "good" and "original" is just not appropriate - this leads to that noone will buy from the "grey area"Chinese suppliers...
And not to prejudiced against China or Chinese people, there are good and untrustworthy people in all countries
You can't trust China these days... As many DIY people a few years ago purchased a lot of electronic stuff from China, the counterfeit industry scaled the growth too
If you can take the "original" and program and it's working flawless, and those cheap Chinese ain't working, then assume they are counterfeit...
https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/9388/atmega328p-au-counterfeit/18
As I recall the ENC28J60 is haveing the IP protocol on memory of the Arduino, most likely you will run out of memory and getting weirds errors/reboots
When using the Ethercard/W5100 shield, this one have the IP protocol embedded and then there is room for Mysensors code adn other stuff in the memory
The technique with a large GND-plane can be quite well used when dealing with RF circuitry
But I agree this isn't pretty looking electronics...