@Lee-Groom - over time the community have found out that its best to power the radio directly from the batteries and not through the booster due to what @AWI said. Thats how i build my PCB. The nrf24l01+ can handle down to 1.9V so you have atleast a span of 1.9 - 3.3v to work with if you are using 2xAA. I would suggest powering your radio directle from battery and the rest throught the booster. Filter the booster with 0,1uF cheramic cap on the output (I dont know why, but learning by doing i have found this to work the best for me). Also be aware of that out of 10 china boosters i get atleast 2 that is so bad they generate so much noice its hard to get a good circiut.

that i can do :) perfect,, thank you..

There is several projects on openhardware.io that does this and alot of discussions on the forum for safety regarding 220v to 5v. No project is without disclaimer that you use it on your own risk - because thats what we do here - diy. How I have understood it (can not garatee its right) is that FR4 is the worst material to use (offcourse since its cheapest) and therefore it requers the longest creepage and clearance. Also a good thing is to seperate high voltage (primary side) and low voltage (secondary). Use 3 mm as creepage. Also dont put it in a dirty/high humidity enviroment... this is how far i have come... but I still have alot of questions to work out... Some links: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers https://www.openhardware.io/view/13/In-Wall-ACDC-Pcb-for-MySensors https://www.openhardware.io/view/77/AC-DC-double-solid-state-relay-module https://www.openhardware.io/view/83/Smart-Light-Switch-220v

@HarryDutch OMG your a genius, I do have LEDs on....I thought that only applied to gateways for some reason... Don't know why I didn't think of that :) Lee

interesting.....thanks for the link :)