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  3. Garage door contraption (yet another)

Garage door contraption (yet another)

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  • barduinoB Offline
    barduinoB Offline
    barduino
    wrote on last edited by barduino
    #1

    Hi Folks

    After leaving my garage door open all night for several times, I had to go ahead and make a MySensors contraptions for it.

    The garage door system I have has 1 single button it will either open or close the door depending on position, the safety beams and the last operations.

    Since I know nothing about electronics, hacking the motor electronics was beyond my skill set, so I decide to sensorize the button operations. In order to figure out if the door was opening or closing I used a sonic distance relative to de door rail. I was expecting to have issues with precision but I was rather surprised it worked so well.

    0_1490546766426_IMG_0839.JPG

    The base is the fantastic Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors by @sundberg84 with a bumper/box of my own creation.

    0_1490546914831_IMG_0837.JPG

    Coupled with some extra pieces as the rail support, the insert for the sonic sensor and the box lid it self.

    0_1490547095237_IMG_0838.JPG

    On the controller it looks like this

    With door Open

    0_1490547164135_Haall_door_open.png

    With door Closed

    0_1490547193667_Haall_door_close.png

    On the other side, I've created a simple led sensor which receives a door open/closed signal directly from the garage sensor to turn on or off a led.

    0_1490547492607_IMG_0840.JPG

    As always feedback is appreciated

    Cheers

    dbemowskD gohanG 2 Replies Last reply
    5
    • barduinoB barduino

      Hi Folks

      After leaving my garage door open all night for several times, I had to go ahead and make a MySensors contraptions for it.

      The garage door system I have has 1 single button it will either open or close the door depending on position, the safety beams and the last operations.

      Since I know nothing about electronics, hacking the motor electronics was beyond my skill set, so I decide to sensorize the button operations. In order to figure out if the door was opening or closing I used a sonic distance relative to de door rail. I was expecting to have issues with precision but I was rather surprised it worked so well.

      0_1490546766426_IMG_0839.JPG

      The base is the fantastic Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors by @sundberg84 with a bumper/box of my own creation.

      0_1490546914831_IMG_0837.JPG

      Coupled with some extra pieces as the rail support, the insert for the sonic sensor and the box lid it self.

      0_1490547095237_IMG_0838.JPG

      On the controller it looks like this

      With door Open

      0_1490547164135_Haall_door_open.png

      With door Closed

      0_1490547193667_Haall_door_close.png

      On the other side, I've created a simple led sensor which receives a door open/closed signal directly from the garage sensor to turn on or off a led.

      0_1490547492607_IMG_0840.JPG

      As always feedback is appreciated

      Cheers

      dbemowskD Offline
      dbemowskD Offline
      dbemowsk
      wrote on last edited by
      #2

      @barduino Love the enclosure design. I like the way you printed it so that the PCBs slide into the slots. No screws needed. Interesting use of an ultrasonic sensor too. Good job.

      I just recently got my 3D printer and I am loving it for my MySensors projects. It's primarily why I bought it though.

      Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
      Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

      barduinoB 1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • barduinoB barduino

        Hi Folks

        After leaving my garage door open all night for several times, I had to go ahead and make a MySensors contraptions for it.

        The garage door system I have has 1 single button it will either open or close the door depending on position, the safety beams and the last operations.

        Since I know nothing about electronics, hacking the motor electronics was beyond my skill set, so I decide to sensorize the button operations. In order to figure out if the door was opening or closing I used a sonic distance relative to de door rail. I was expecting to have issues with precision but I was rather surprised it worked so well.

        0_1490546766426_IMG_0839.JPG

        The base is the fantastic Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors by @sundberg84 with a bumper/box of my own creation.

        0_1490546914831_IMG_0837.JPG

        Coupled with some extra pieces as the rail support, the insert for the sonic sensor and the box lid it self.

        0_1490547095237_IMG_0838.JPG

        On the controller it looks like this

        With door Open

        0_1490547164135_Haall_door_open.png

        With door Closed

        0_1490547193667_Haall_door_close.png

        On the other side, I've created a simple led sensor which receives a door open/closed signal directly from the garage sensor to turn on or off a led.

        0_1490547492607_IMG_0840.JPG

        As always feedback is appreciated

        Cheers

        gohanG Offline
        gohanG Offline
        gohan
        Mod
        wrote on last edited by
        #3

        @barduino nice project, but may I ask you why you choose the distance sensor instead of a reed switch or micro switch?

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • dbemowskD Offline
          dbemowskD Offline
          dbemowsk
          wrote on last edited by
          #4

          Though I do think it is an interesting concept, but I would pose the same question as @gohan. Why not a reed or micro switch. Those seem like much cheaper options.

          Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
          Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • K Offline
            K Offline
            koen01
            wrote on last edited by koen01
            #5

            Maybe bescause he had the parts around?

            Or this way you can check if it's moving up or down as it's fixed on the rail and senses the door moving to or fro ?
            Edit: he explains in the text itself.

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • barduinoB Offline
              barduinoB Offline
              barduino
              wrote on last edited by barduino
              #6

              Yeah, I wanted to know the exact position of the door, if it was opening or closing etc.

              Anyway I'll gladly share the 3D files for the Easy board

              0_1490732701131_Base.zip

              This is the SketchUp file with the base, rail, lid and enclosure for the sonic.

              0_1490732828480_GarageDoorMonitor.zip

              And this one the base and lid for the monitor.

              The Easy boards I have are v8 and the mounting holes are so small that I couldn't create a support that wouldn't break, so I decided to make some rail/slide system.

              Also because I don't solder the Arduino or radio directly to the board, the lid becomes very tall. But its easy to adjust in the 3D files.

              0_1490733122009_upload-44b48d4c-7fdc-4241-81e7-2c49e1dc5ae9

              0_1490734763849_upload-39cb18fb-7f9c-4adf-9d1d-f64a29b014b8

              If you prefer STL files, I'll upload them

              Cheers

              K 1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • dbemowskD dbemowsk

                @barduino Love the enclosure design. I like the way you printed it so that the PCBs slide into the slots. No screws needed. Interesting use of an ultrasonic sensor too. Good job.

                I just recently got my 3D printer and I am loving it for my MySensors projects. It's primarily why I bought it though.

                barduinoB Offline
                barduinoB Offline
                barduino
                wrote on last edited by
                #7

                @dbemowsk, I'm very interested in your decora style wall plate, maybe we can compare notes

                dbemowskD 1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • barduinoB barduino

                  @dbemowsk, I'm very interested in your decora style wall plate, maybe we can compare notes

                  dbemowskD Offline
                  dbemowskD Offline
                  dbemowsk
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #8

                  @barduino Last night I created another decora plate that has 2 bigger switches. I will probably be pushing that one up to my thingiverse account tonight. I have to make the board for it yet, but I think this one will be a bit easier since I only have 4 switches and 2 LEDs to deal with instead of 8 and 4 with the other one.
                  0_1490737574834_upload-b2e10497-2630-48fc-83bf-146aab4e4812

                  I also have a project I did with my easy newbie boards where I made an enclosure for my bathroom temp/humidity sensor. Here is the link:
                  https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6485/hdc1080-battery-operated-temp-humidity-sensor-with-wall-box
                  You mentioned that you couldn't create a support that wouldn't break. If you look at the temp/humidity enclosure I just have 4 mounting tabs inside the box. I am using 2mm x 5mm screws to secure it. These are the screws I bought to use on my decora switches. They work great. the tabs are big enough where there is no real chance that they would break. I could possibly get some longer screws because if I screw these in and take them out too much the hole kind of gets stripped. That shouldn't be much of a problem now that I have the enclosure perfected, I shouldn't have a need to remove screws much.

                  Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                  Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                  barduinoB 1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • dbemowskD dbemowsk

                    @barduino Last night I created another decora plate that has 2 bigger switches. I will probably be pushing that one up to my thingiverse account tonight. I have to make the board for it yet, but I think this one will be a bit easier since I only have 4 switches and 2 LEDs to deal with instead of 8 and 4 with the other one.
                    0_1490737574834_upload-b2e10497-2630-48fc-83bf-146aab4e4812

                    I also have a project I did with my easy newbie boards where I made an enclosure for my bathroom temp/humidity sensor. Here is the link:
                    https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6485/hdc1080-battery-operated-temp-humidity-sensor-with-wall-box
                    You mentioned that you couldn't create a support that wouldn't break. If you look at the temp/humidity enclosure I just have 4 mounting tabs inside the box. I am using 2mm x 5mm screws to secure it. These are the screws I bought to use on my decora switches. They work great. the tabs are big enough where there is no real chance that they would break. I could possibly get some longer screws because if I screw these in and take them out too much the hole kind of gets stripped. That shouldn't be much of a problem now that I have the enclosure perfected, I shouldn't have a need to remove screws much.

                    barduinoB Offline
                    barduinoB Offline
                    barduino
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #9

                    @dbemowsk , the problem is that I lost my screws... (portuguese joke meaning lost my marbles or gone crazy)

                    Anyway, do you create the threads for the screws in the plastic? or do you use self-threading...

                    When I do my supports I make them snap-on, like a little wider in the base and then a bit of plastic that goes through the board holes. If the holes are too thin the snap-on bit breaks.

                    cheers

                    dbemowskD 1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • barduinoB barduino

                      @dbemowsk , the problem is that I lost my screws... (portuguese joke meaning lost my marbles or gone crazy)

                      Anyway, do you create the threads for the screws in the plastic? or do you use self-threading...

                      When I do my supports I make them snap-on, like a little wider in the base and then a bit of plastic that goes through the board holes. If the holes are too thin the snap-on bit breaks.

                      cheers

                      dbemowskD Offline
                      dbemowskD Offline
                      dbemowsk
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #10

                      @barduino I get it, I just have holes that I use self tapping screws in like this style:
                      0_1490813906802_upload-1149abd3-0401-4403-a3aa-a8ac8bc1efc4
                      I just bought some 2mm x 5mm ones from ebay. As long as you don't torque them in real tight, they hold good. So to hold a circuit board in a box, it is more than enough.

                      Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                      Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • barduinoB barduino

                        Yeah, I wanted to know the exact position of the door, if it was opening or closing etc.

                        Anyway I'll gladly share the 3D files for the Easy board

                        0_1490732701131_Base.zip

                        This is the SketchUp file with the base, rail, lid and enclosure for the sonic.

                        0_1490732828480_GarageDoorMonitor.zip

                        And this one the base and lid for the monitor.

                        The Easy boards I have are v8 and the mounting holes are so small that I couldn't create a support that wouldn't break, so I decided to make some rail/slide system.

                        Also because I don't solder the Arduino or radio directly to the board, the lid becomes very tall. But its easy to adjust in the 3D files.

                        0_1490733122009_upload-44b48d4c-7fdc-4241-81e7-2c49e1dc5ae9

                        0_1490734763849_upload-39cb18fb-7f9c-4adf-9d1d-f64a29b014b8

                        If you prefer STL files, I'll upload them

                        Cheers

                        K Offline
                        K Offline
                        koen01
                        wrote on last edited by koen01
                        #11

                        @barduino

                        I had a test setup that also had a sensor looking down so I could 'see' if my car was parked in the garage or not.... if distance < 1m == car parked.

                        My garage door opener is directly above my car when its parked.

                        barduinoB 1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • K koen01

                          @barduino

                          I had a test setup that also had a sensor looking down so I could 'see' if my car was parked in the garage or not.... if distance < 1m == car parked.

                          My garage door opener is directly above my car when its parked.

                          barduinoB Offline
                          barduinoB Offline
                          barduino
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #12

                          @koen01

                          I'm going for a similar next step.

                          The cars must be parked in a very specific position relative to the side wall and the garage door, or otherwise it's almost impossible to move around the garage.

                          Something like this Hek project.

                          Cheers

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