My Sensor node "motherboard" (MySensorsNode)

[bjornhallberg]

@Anticimex I can understand that. Plus the SOT23 is a tad easier to hand solder than the SC70. I guess I will have to get around to make my own sensor node eventually. Just gotta finish the reflow oven first.

@scalz Yeah, I've been looking at the 328p-mu (qfn) from AliExpress. If it is a counterfeit, so are all the other ICs on the Pro Minis we're all using probably. And those capacitors really are dirt cheap!

If you have the patience for it, you can probably source your components from AliExpress easily. I've been building up quite a stock of components and so far it has been smooth sailing (except maybe that one seller who sent the wrong item, money refunded, but time lost).

[RJ_Make]

@Anticimex Nice Board, You have really out done yourself!

[Anticimex]

Thanks guys! Well, if AliExpress can deliver this versatility of components, I might consider replacing one of my four sources with them. I have been sceptical of them due to the amount of counterfeits in their stocks, but if you all have good experience with them, that counts for a lot!
I will let you know in this thread when I have finished my sourcing and publish my BOMs. I might do several with different vendors. Unfortunately I have not found a single supplier capable of sourcing everything (and I still don't count the larger modules in that).

[Anticimex]

@scalz thanks mate I might be able to part with a board as well once I get them. On DirtyPCBs I plan to put them up on their "store" as well. It won't earn me money but I get some discount on future orders. And if anyone here were interested they could order them there (I'll provide links).

[TD22057]

@Anticimex Very cool project. As someone just starting to learn some basic PCB design, your boards are far above anything I could come up with. I was looking at the board files and noticed that you have a grid of via's underneath the RFM radio. What's the idea behind that may via's? I was under the impression that via's should be avoided and contributed to a lot of RF noise on a board - of course I'm assuming that my understanding is probably wrong, but I'm curious as to the reasoning...

[Anticimex]

@TD22057 thank you! The vias under the radio is in the ground planes. The idea is to make sure the ground planes are evenly grounded. Otherwise they might in some areas act as a capacitor and under the rf parts I want the ground to be as solid as possible. For signals on the other hand, I agree that vias could contribute to notice bit as far as I know this should not be the case for a ground plane. But if you have some link to where vias are discussed I would be interested to see it I am not a professional either on this, but I could pass it by my dad. He did this kind of thunk his entire career. So he would give a definite answer
EDIT: just talked with him and he agreed that he never experienced noise problem due to via-stiched planes, and that he used that practice as well. So I believe the noise issue you refer to is for signal routes in which case I would agree that vias should be avoided if possible. Unless it would mean ridiculous signal paths of course which is even worse.

[Anticimex]

@bjornhallberg A reflow oven sounds like a nifty thing to have on the bench. I wish I had the time to spare to fiddle with that With stencils you could then make some really compact boards.

[Anticimex]

EDIT: All layouts are done. Boring BOM/sourcing work still left to do...

[Anticimex]

EDIT: I went the extra mile and managed to shoehorn in an additional footprint to please @bjornhallberg:s "selfish reasons" so now there is an option to solder a SC-60 based regulator (TPS61221) instead of the SOT-23 based TPS61097A. The first post is updated with the details.

[bjornhallberg]

@Anticimex Woohoooo!

[Anticimex]

@bjornhallberg I actually had a few TPS61221 but I ordered the wrong part (variable output version) so I could never use them. That was for 1.0 where it would serve as 5V reg but since then I ditched the idea of supporting 5V since I encourage everyone to moving away from that. Should be no reason to use 5V for our stuff nowdays.

[Anticimex]

EDIT: BOMs are now uploaded as well. I have to inspect the gerbers one more time but it is close to manufacture now

[scalz]

@Anticimex: thx. you have made a great work on this, lot of research I imagine
I will look at it carefully, maybe there are interesting ref

[Anticimex]

Thanks,
well at least there are a lot of sourcing alternatives now

[scalz]

sure!
just a little question, how do you plan to add daughter board on your smallest board? on bottom?

[Anticimex]

No, on top with some form of riser-board so it goes above the Arduino. If I ever bother. My sensors are socketed so I could just plug them directly onto the connector for that board variant or use extension wires for them.

[scalz]

oki, cool

[Anticimex]

The small 5x5 board I did most like a favor to anyone who would like to buy a few cheap ones (they are dirt cheap on DirtyPCBs, I will put a order-link to it when I have sent them for manufacture). I will use the board-specific layouts for my "real" sensors since they are tuned to the enclosures I plan to use. Hopefully I got my measurements right...but the 5x5 board will serve as my second prototype run before I tape out the "real" ones. Just so I can verify the design once more before I start deploying my actual sensor network. Took a few years but now I have all my personal "must haves" in place (security and features) so I am ready
The boards also have the external flash so I can handle any OTA bootloader variant and it supports both radios in through-hole variants so I can put sockets to easily swap radios later on as well. And I already ordered the 2mm pitch sockets for the RF69 so that is already done.

[scalz]

I totally agree with your vision. your board, you know it, is great, a swiss army knife, useful
and I am rather like you, meaning I hope I will start soon my "real" network too. can't wait! but like you said it takes so long time to study, dev and tests...
but it is so fun when it works

[Anticimex]

The ultimate satisfaction is to tinker with it, test, improve, optimize, and then deploy and nail it from the start

[scalz]

yeah

do you plan in future to invest in 3d printer? I am looking at this actually, too much tempting...

[Anticimex]

I was considering it for a while, but realised that I don't have the time for that unfortunately
And I am a total novice in 3D design, so I would also need to invest a lot in learning that as well. So I boldly decided to go for off-the-shelf products, or leech other peoples designes through 3dhubs

[scalz]

yes I understand. we're always running after time...too bad to have to sleep
I hope we will see lots of 3d design share in the future. to have a good opensource collection hardware, sketch, 3d design...it could be great!

[Anticimex]

EDIT: And so the cat's out of the bag. The 5x5 board is available for purchase at DirtyPCBs for anyone who dares to try it before I have fully verified it. The link is also in the top post.

[shabba]

Can they be bought anywhere assembled?!

Failing that any good parts lists etc.

[Anticimex]

@shabba I am afraid not. I do not have the time to assemble boards for others than myself. And it would be too expensive BOMs are included in the git under Manufacturing/BOM.

[Anticimex]

EDIT: I have "released" the 1.1 board in github and updated the top post to link to the releases.
Current status is that 1.1 is released as it is shipped to the manufacturer and current status is unverified (as I have not received the boards yet). It also currently only covers the 5x5 boards as I intend to verify that one before manufacturing the BOX-boards.

[Cliff Karlsson]

I think this board is perfect but is it possible to modify it so that you have the option to replace the battery for a HLK-PM01 if wanting to use direct power ?

[Anticimex]

@Cliff-Karlsson thanks! No, I'm not interested in that. I don't think that part would fit in my boxes. But as I have published all sources and cad files in an "open" format, and picked a license that permits derivative work, you are free to copy my board and add that, given that you follow the license

[GertSanders]

@Cliff-Karlsson : If the board below is tested (still on it's way from DirtyPCB to me), I will post the EAGLE files. This board allows several types of powering: battery (AAA), external battery (with DC regulator), direct 5V (if you mount the 3V3 LDO for the radio), HLK-PM01 for direct 120-220V AC. I need to test the various setups before I publish this, but a preview of the board is here:

[Cliff Karlsson]

@GertSanders said:

tested (still on it's way from DirtyPCB to me), I will post the EAGLE files. This board allows several types of powering: battery (AAA), external battery (with DC regulator), dir

Great, is it possible to use a RFM69? And do you solder an atmega (?) chip on to it or do you add a pro mini?

[GertSanders]

It's not designed for RFM69 but if you use an adapter and solder de bridge of the interrupt, then theoretically it could be used.
The processor is an atmega328p (not a pro mini).

[Cliff Karlsson]

I just got my boards from dirtyPCBs but are there any list of the required components? And can I use rfm69 with a 5v pro mini or do I have to use a 3.3v pro mini?

[Anticimex]

@Cliff-Karlsson you can find the BOM in GitHub under manufacturing. The board is designed for 3.3v pro mini. I have not taken 5v variant into consideration at all.

[Cliff Karlsson]

Are all components required? I know you can only use one radio / pcb and that the power sockets are optional. But I tried to find the cheapest components and after adding all the components from aliexpress the cost is almost 100 EUR and then I got probably atleast as many components from the more expensive shops left.

[Anticimex]

@Cliff-Karlsson well, I did not consider cost for my board. That said, 100EUR is definitely not required to spend for components on it. It depends on how you intend to use it and what flexibility you want. The ability to control certain aspects is optional as indicated by jumper configurations. I made it clear in my schematic what parts are optional to solder. You can of course cut more cost by skipping decoupling and such as well, but I can't vouch for board performance in that case.

[Pejo]

@Anticimex Do you know what screws are expected for the BOX-2252? Is it M2 or something else?

[Anticimex]

@Pejo I believe M2.

[Pejo]

@Anticimex Thanks!

[Cliff Karlsson]

Is it possible to only solder a mini pro 3.3v and an rfm69hw to your pcb and use it as a mysensors gateway? Or do I need to solder any more components?

[Anticimex]

@Cliff-Karlsson it was never design for that purpose, but I suppose you could. You'll need to see the schematics to determine what additional components are needed for power and regulation. Decoupling is also highly recommend. Remember that you need to expose a serial port for the GW.

[MiKa]

Hi,
Can You share also pcb for BOX-2252 please
Thanks,
MiKa

[Anticimex]

@MiKa https://www.openhardware.io/view/2/MySensors-node
It's all there. However, be adviced that the board has a hard time fitting BOX-2252.

[MiKa]

Hi,
Which one is problem to fit into the box? 2252 or LE-BOX-0028 ?
Here You wrote about 2252 and on the openhardware site is LE-BOX-0028...
Regards,
MiKa

[Anticimex]

@MiKa Hi, sorry, my bad. It is LE-BOX-0028 (the big one) that has problems fitting (at least the box I have).

[bilbolodz]

Could some please point me to right (working) Dualoptiboot bootloader for these board? I'm fighting with it for over two days but without success.

[Anticimex]

I have not used dualoptiboot. But there should not be need for a special variant of it. It is a board that takes a standard arduino pro mini so a bootloader designed for that arduino should work just fine. Just make sure to configure the proper JEDEC ID for the flash.

[bilbolodz]

I've took bootloader from: https://github.com/LowPowerLab/DualOptiboot
What JEDEC ID is correct for AT25DF512C?

[Anticimex]

@bilbolodz that is stated in the datasheet of the device. Table 12.2. Manufacturer ID is 1Fh and Device ID part 1 is 65h. So you need to define MY_OTA_FLASH_JDECID to 0x1F65 (which is default I believe).
I don't know if you need to reconfigure DualOptiboot if you took it from LowPowerLab. Perhaps.

[bilbolodz]

I've got it working BUT I've very strange "solution". I'll write it down maybe someone be able to explain me what's going on:

I've 3 versions of "test program" 1.0, 1.1, 1.2 (actually the only difference is sketch number).

1. I'm uploading manually with avrdude DualOptiboot from "Mysensors board package" (uploading using gui not working - gives strange error about fuses).
2. I'm uploading (using USBasp and Arduino GUI) program version 1.0: program is working but "Reboot" command send from MYSController gets arduin into endless loop during "boot"

0 MCO:BGN:INIT REPEATER,CP=RNORAA-,VER=2.1.1
4 TSM:INIT
4 TSF:WUR:MS=0
12 TSM:INIT:TSP OK
14 TSF:0 MCO:BGN:INIT REPEATER,CP=RNORAA-,VER=2.1.1
4 TSM:INIT
4 TSF:WUR:MS=0
12 TSM:INIT:TSP OK
14 TSF:0 MCO:BGN:INIT REPEATER,CP=RNORAA-,VER=2.1.1

1. Physical reset of board and OTA update to v 1.1 using MYSControler. OTA update is finished but at the end "endless loop"

133398 OTA:FWP:RECV B=0000
133400 OTA:FWP:FW END
136038 OTA:CRC:B=05A8,C=6506,F=6506
136040 OTA:FWP:CRC OK
0 MCO:BGN:INIT REPEATER,CP=RNORAA-,VER=2.1.1
4 TSM:INIT
4 TSF:WUR:MS=0
12 TSM:INIT:TSP OK
14 TSF:�0 MCO:BGN:INIT REPEATER,CP=RNORAA-,VER=2.1.1
4 TSM:INIT
4 TSF:WUR:MS=0
12 TSM:INIT:TSP OK
14 TSF:�0 MCO:BGN:INIT REPEATER,CP=RNORAA-,VER=2.1.1

1. Physical reset of board: still version 1.0 present and running, reboot NOT working
2. One again I program bootloader using command:

avrdude -c usbasp -p m328p -u -U flash:w:optiboot_atmega328_pro_8MHz.hex

1. Surprise, surprise: version 1.1 present and running, reboot command WORKING!
2. After these I can program freely (using OTA) other versions of program (e.x. 1.2 or even "start version" 1.0)

I'm making some STUPID mistake but I can't find it......

[Anticimex]

@bilbolodz hm, sorry. Can't really help there. The board should be SenseBender compatible so what ever flow is described for that board (and bootloader designed for that board) should work on this. But perhaps the fact that this one has a pro mini and not just a vanilla atmega cause it to behave differently in some way.

[rozpruwacz]

@bilbolodz I had also problems with DualOptiboot and OTA. It is very poorly documented. As I understand how it works, If you burn the bootloader first and then the program You actually erasing the bootloader that you burned before (thats why it is in "endless loop"). The bootloader must be burned after the program is already on the external flash, so it can load that program into the internal memory. To do that:

1. upload the program to the board
2. fire the ota update to write the same program to the external flash
3. program the bootloader

after that you will have the bootloader and OTA working.

[bilbolodz]

@rozpruwacz
I've made some test. It looks that bootloader is "damaged" ONLY if sketch is loaded using programmer (USBASP in my case). If sketch is loaded via serial and bootloader all is fine. So correct usage should be:

1. Program DualOptiboot bootloader using programmer
2. Upload sketch using serial port and DualOptiboot bootloader

[rozpruwacz]

@bilbolodz LOL, You are absolutely right thats why it is called "Dual" because it can also boot from the serial port ... thanks !!

[bilbolodz]

@Anticimex
Could you please:

1. Point me to drop in replacement for DMP3056L-7? It's hard to get in my area...
2. Tell where can I buy SI7021 chip?

[Anticimex]

@bilbolodz you find all sourcing information I have on github

[rozpruwacz]

@bilbolodz said in My Sensor node "motherboard" (MySensorsNode):

SI7021

fo the transistor search for P-CHANNEL MOSFET with Low On-Resistance (the lower the better, the DMP3056L has 500mOhms) and the transistor must be rated for voltage grater than your power supply (Drain-Source Voltage parameter in datasheet, which is negative value but think of it as it would be positive)

[bilbolodz]

@Anticimex I've checked it but in most cases all sources you've mentioned have very expensive shipment to Poland.
How about DMP3056L-7 replacement? I've found it on aliexpres but shipment are twice such expensive as 35 pieces of transistor.

[rozpruwacz]

@bilbolodz You can buy an SI7021 module and desolder it https://botland.com.pl/czujniki-temperatury/6554-si7021-czujniki-temperatury-i-wilgotnosci-i2c-sparkfun.html

[bilbolodz]

@rozpruwacz said in My Sensor node "motherboard" (MySensorsNode):

SI7021

Found it on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SI7021-A10-GM1R-Digital-Temperature-and-Humidity-Sensor-Module-F-Arduino-Si7021-/132179773960?hash=item1ec6874a08:g:oL0AAOSw~y9ZCf9o

Still looking for good source of DMP3056L-7 or replecement

[Anticimex]

I cannot help on country specific sourcing alternatives. It would be impossible for me to create a list for the cheapest sourcing alternatives for every country. You have all part information in the BOM. So it should be relatively easy for you to search the parts. And if you want alternatives, do a parametric search at your preferred suppliers.

[bilbolodz]

Do you have suggestion how to mount RFM69 radio module? "Standard" 2.54 gold pin won't fit....

[Anticimex]

@bilbolodz well, no it is 2mm pitch.