💬 Multi-Sensor: Temp/Humidity/PIR/ Leak/Magnet/Light/Accel
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I just now uploaded some demo source code that will make the node into a proper MySensors temperature node.
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I just now uploaded the Version 4 files. The new design uses the more compact CR2032 battery holder discussed above. :)
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Also, what about moving the led to the center next to its resistor, it would leave enough space to squeeze in a SOT 23 ultra low power hall sensor and it's 100nF capacitor.
@Nca78 said in 💬 CR2032 Small Wireless Temperature-Humidity Sensor:
Also, what about moving the led to the center next to its resistor, it would leave enough space to squeeze in a SOT 23 ultra low power hall sensor and it's 100nF capacitor.
Yes, with the Version 4 design serving as the basis, I think there will be enough room to do this.
I'd also like to add a light sensor of some kind: something that will trigger an interrupt when, say, a refrigerator light goes on or off (for the case where the temperature node is in a refrigertor or freezer). Do you have any particular suggestions for that? A simple photoresistor, or would there be something better (lower current)?
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Low current light sensor with interrupt, you have OPT3001 and MAX44009. MAX44009 has the lowest power but it doesn't have the same availability (not on Arrows for example).
If you're planning to use it from breakout board (as they are boath really tiny) then MAX44009 is the best choice as it's cheaper on AliExpress.If you want one that you can solder by hand you can check VEML7700, it's cheap, has low power consumption (2uA) if you use a low refresh rate. But it goes only down to 2.5V so you will lose a bit of the capacity of the button cell, and it has no interrupt pin.
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Also, what about moving the led to the center next to its resistor, it would leave enough space to squeeze in a SOT 23 ultra low power hall sensor and it's 100nF capacitor.
@Nca78 said in 💬 CR2032 Small Wireless Temperature-Humidity Sensor:
Also, what about moving the led to the center next to its resistor, it would leave enough space to squeeze in a SOT 23 ultra low power hall sensor and it's 100nF capacitor.
Done. I just now uploaded Version 5, which has the TI hall effect sensor.
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Low current light sensor with interrupt, you have OPT3001 and MAX44009. MAX44009 has the lowest power but it doesn't have the same availability (not on Arrows for example).
If you're planning to use it from breakout board (as they are boath really tiny) then MAX44009 is the best choice as it's cheaper on AliExpress.If you want one that you can solder by hand you can check VEML7700, it's cheap, has low power consumption (2uA) if you use a low refresh rate. But it goes only down to 2.5V so you will lose a bit of the capacity of the button cell, and it has no interrupt pin.
@Nca78 said in 💬 CR2032 Small Wireless Temperature-Humidity Sensor:
MAX44009 has the lowest power but it doesn't have the same availability (not on Arrows for example).
If you're planning to use it from breakout board (as they are boath really tiny) then MAX44009 is the best choice as it's cheaper on AliExpress.Looks as though if I add just one more header pin, then I can use this board:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MAX44009-Ambient-Light-Sensor-Module-with-4P-Pin-Header-Module/32729312303.html?spm=2114.search0204.3.47.XOZuu8&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10130_10345_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10546_10340_10341_10548_10545_10541_10562_10084_10083_10307_10178_10060_10155_5680017_10154_10056_10055_10539_10537_10312_10536_10059_10313_10314_10534_10533_100031_10103_10073_10102_10557_10558_10142_10107-10178,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_4_ppcChannel&btsid=ca20f561-ad43-4536-b09f-7856bf41fbb2&algo_expid=0601cfd8-6d07-4336-aefc-c06bc54166ac-2&algo_pvid=0601cfd8-6d07-4336-aefc-c06bc54166ac
That way I could capture the interrupt. -
OK, I just now uploaded the files for Version 6, which does just that. Unless someone can think of another sensor to add, I think this will be the final version (unless errors are discovered). :)
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I made one last change to add water leak detection to it. I just now uploaded the version 7 files. :)
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I have the Version 1 design now working with the si7021 breakout board that I got from Aliexpress. Note that if you use these breakout boards, remember to remove the voltage regulator and solder bridge across the two pins as shown in the photo below:
This is because the coin-cell voltage is already in the desired range, and so there's no need for further voltage reduction. -
@Toyman said in 💬 Small Wireless Temp/Humidity Leak/Magnet/Light/Accel Sensor:
Is v7 already for CR2477? BOM still mentions CR2032
If I had kept the same button cell holder as some of the earlier version it would be. However, I switched to a narrower profile battery holder in the BOM (which benefits the leakage sensor part of the design). Not sure if an equivalent CR2477 holder is still available with the new design. Haven't checked. When I brought up the possibility of a CR2477 earlier, it didn't seem to generate much enthusiasm at the time. So, I took that to mean most people weren't really interested.
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Nice project!
What about adding two resistors to measure and send the battery level as well?
@krisha said in 💬 Small Wireless Temp/Humidity Leak/Magnet/Light/Accel Sensor:
What about adding two resistors to measure and send the battery level as well?
not needed. You can measure the battery voltage without a divider.
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Now reads temperature and humidity from the si7021 and sends the values to Domoticz for graphing:
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@ghiglie said in 💬 Multi-Sensor: Temp/Humidity Leak/Magnet/Light/Accel:
...another n00b question: what are the PCB dimensions?
The diameter is 27.15mm.
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@ghiglie said in 💬 Multi-Sensor: Temp/Humidity Leak/Magnet/Light/Accel:
...another n00b question: what are the PCB dimensions?
The diameter is 27.15mm.
@NeverDie Thanks! I'll ask the fab if they can do it without charging extra costs. Or I'll "square" it - maybe with a hole in the angles to screw it. Really like this design.
atmega328p serial killer
HomeAssistant / gateway: ESP8266 & NRF24L01+ gateway -
@NeverDie Thanks! I'll ask the fab if they can do it without charging extra costs. Or I'll "square" it - maybe with a hole in the angles to screw it. Really like this design.
