@rozpruwacz said in Dimmable LED kitchen light (Arduino, APDS-9960, RGBWW led):

@Nca78 I'm also using 9930 and it is quite insensitive to transparent stuff, even partly transparent plastic cover. I am now finishing my kitchen and plan to put the sensor behind the milky plasic cover of the led aluminium profile, then drill the small hole for the ir diodes and cover the hole with fully transparent plastic. I made the prototype like this and it is working very well, but didn't test with the steam yet ...

Did you manage to get reliable data with the 9930 ? It's fluctuating too much to allow the same behavior than what mfalkvidd implemented, so I just split the range in 2 areas "up" and "down" with a "neutral" area in the middle to implement some threshold to go in/out of the up and down zones.
I'm waiting for some very cheap "9960" from AliExpress, that I suspect will be some 9930, but if they are not then I will give up on this sensor as the price difference is very low now and is not worth the compromises.

Max speed is 150kbit/s so it's 10 times longer TX time at twice the max current compared to nrf24.
That's the moment when the Livolo power supply can reach its limits so it doesn't sound like the right compromise to me. I never had problems while in RX mode.m with nrf24.

Interesting but unfortunately things are not so bright for TX with 25mA and a low speed that will require much more on time.

Hello,

you are missing the sensor.begin() to initialize the sensor. Return value will tell you if initialization succeeded or not.

if (!sensor.begin()) {
#ifdef MY_DEBUG
    Serial.println("FAILED TO INIT SENSOR !!!!");
#endif
...
  }

Hello @eedlez, I had a similar problem with battery powered temperature sensors until I started to use a good PA LNA module with RF24_PA_MAX. Then everything became 100% reliable.

@Jokgi said in nRF5 Bluetooth action!:

@NeverDie I am not sure about all the boards for sell on that site. but I would have to say that any J-link programmer that is packaged as such for $12-$40 dollars is probably counterfeit. Updating these items with newer J-link firmware would more then likely disable them. (On purpose)

Yes they are of course counterfeit, and using old firmware. You have a message when you use them with Segger software asking you to upgrade to newer firmware and if you accept your programmer is disabled (web is full of solutions to reflash a firmware).
But if you don't upgrade the firmware it works fine as a SWD programmer, at least for basic use (programming). I have not tried any debugging.

@gohan they don't charge me for shipping, but I'm in Vietnam so it's not far for them

I think before cutting the capacitors legs you should try with the AA/AAA batteries.
I've used modules with relatively long capacitor legs and with power source from a battery it didn't create a range problem so either you have a noise problem with your power source, or you have bad modules, or both. Testing with the batteries will give you an answer for the power source.

When you tried with normal module, did you try with only "normal" NRF24 or with 1 normal and 1 amplified module ?

Purpose of capacitor is mainly to filter out noise. Did you solder it directly on the vcc/gnd pins of the radio modules, with leads as short as possible ?
If it's not making a difference or getting worse, reduce the size to get closer to the 4.7uF, and search the culprit somewhere else.

I think the most simple solution is to use an RTC. For example DS1302, it uses little power and runs at low voltage which is great for battery powered sensors. Precision is also good enough if you are not sleeping for days.