livolo Glass Panel Touch Light Wall Switch + arduino 433Mhz
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OK, here is what I managed to get working so far. I didn't use mysensors in the end but the sketch can be adapted. I must admit it's not the cleanest code.
So, I removed both microcontrollers from the base and the touch panel. I added a AT42QT1010 for touch detection (10k resistor, 47nF cap) and also replaced the led resistors from the touch panel with 2.2k ones (the light was too dimm, now it's a bit too bright :D ).Rest of the mods should be easy to see from the images. I didn't roll my own PCBs since I needed to adapt only 6 switches.
Features in the sketch: manual dimmer mode (works the same as the normal switch, just with control and brightness report); manual on/off mode (switches on/off on the start of a touch; the brightness can be set - default 100); manual disabled; when changing the brightness it goes through a ramp, it doesn't go directly to max or min. The modes, brightness, etc. can be changed via RF.
Base mod: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZGojnlm2ocBEaucp2
Touch panel mod: https://photos.app.goo.gl/UpG2UuMtK2qa6q4h1
And the sketch code: https://github.com/andrei-tatar/SensorsNetwork/blob/master/LightDimmer/LightDimmer.ino@Andrei-Călin-Tătar - How did you solve the problem with the power? I tried powering arduino from the built-in 3V connection, but it only worked to turn the lights on. Once on, I almost couldn't communicate with the arduino anymore (like 1 attempt from 20 would be successful).
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@Andrei-Călin-Tătar - How did you solve the problem with the power? I tried powering arduino from the built-in 3V connection, but it only worked to turn the lights on. Once on, I almost couldn't communicate with the arduino anymore (like 1 attempt from 20 would be successful).
@achurak1 - I limited the max brightness. At full brightness, the triac is off for 2.9ms (out of 10msec for 50Hz). That gives enough time to recharge the circuit for the arduino but it limits the power delivered to the light bulbs to about 80-90%. If I would go more than that I would get unstable results. The circuit isn't able to keep it's 3V at full brightness without an arduino connected.
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@achurak1 - I limited the max brightness. At full brightness, the triac is off for 2.9ms (out of 10msec for 50Hz). That gives enough time to recharge the circuit for the arduino but it limits the power delivered to the light bulbs to about 80-90%. If I would go more than that I would get unstable results. The circuit isn't able to keep it's 3V at full brightness without an arduino connected.
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@Andrei-Călin-Tătar - Understood, thanks! Why did you need a new touch sensor, could you reuse the existing one?
@achurak1 do you mean the AT42QT1010? seemed easier for me. I could've added touch detection in the sketch.
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@achurak1 do you mean the AT42QT1010? seemed easier for me. I could've added touch detection in the sketch.
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@Andrei-Călin-Tătar - can you please explain all of your jumper wires. US version looks differently obviously so it's really hard to figure out what you did there based on just the pictures.
@achurak1 I added some details over the photos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/S7VxIrn58z99HRMp2 -
@DJONvl said in livolo Glass Panel Touch Light Wall Switch + arduino 433Mhz:
сегодня доделал Livolo+esp8266 пришлось помучаться с программой и схемой питания но все заработало[0_1485259118390_livolo_esp.mp4](Uploading 100%)
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My goal would be to connect an arduino to the data pin on the power board and use the library to control livolo direct without a radio. The problem I have is that when i connect ground to ground on an ftdi I get magic smoke all over. Inuse my. Volt meter and sure enough the gnd pin is connected directly to the live input. Im guessing gnd and +3v "float" around the AC in some fashion.
Has anyone sucessfully bypassed the radio? Im thinking t may work if i power the arduino off the livolo power supply, or from a battery, but then if i connect that to an rs485 or other device with a real ground, kapow! At least that is what i am thinking will happen.
On a side note I have a regular, 2way, and remote switch, all the same revision and all US style, and from what I can tell the difference for 2way is a diode (d2) and a resettable fuse (r10). It lookes like there is basically a primative modem that sends/recieves the same data as the radio. (The radio is receive only, but 2 way has to be, well 2 ways). The "modem" is connected to "B" and "A" is connected to live and "gnd", which is why I think the dc voltage sort of floats on the ac.
@wallyllama said in livolo Glass Panel Touch Light Wall Switch + arduino 433Mhz:
On a side note I have a regular, 2way, and remote switch, all the same revision and all US style, and from what I can tell the difference for 2way is a diode (d2) and a resettable fuse (r10). It lookes like there is basically a primative modem that sends/recieves the same data as the radio. (The radio is receive only, but 2 way has to be, well 2 ways). The "modem" is connected to "B" and "A" is connected to live and "gnd", which is why I think the dc voltage sort of floats on the ac.
I have tried adding these parts to a non-2-way switch and used it as 2-way but it's not working. I suspect the firmware is different? I have managed to get an ESP8266 powered from the switch in some cases, so I could make a switch 2-way with software. But the livolo switch will not stay on without a load connected (if you have no light connected to the 2nd switch on a 2-gang).
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Guys, I see a lot of struggle trying to get devices powered from these switches. Maybe I missed it, but has anyone tried replacing the 3.3v regulator in the switch? I replaced mine with a switched-mode version, which gives you a lot more power to play with. The original linear regulators effectively have a 8.7v drop across them.
With that + a livolo LED adapter I've managed to get a ESP8266 powered on as little as 2x 13W LED bulbs (I've tried 2x 10.5W and it doesn't work). I've tried some of the jumpers people have posted here to get more power, but I'm unsure if they help.
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Guys, I see a lot of struggle trying to get devices powered from these switches. Maybe I missed it, but has anyone tried replacing the 3.3v regulator in the switch? I replaced mine with a switched-mode version, which gives you a lot more power to play with. The original linear regulators effectively have a 8.7v drop across them.
With that + a livolo LED adapter I've managed to get a ESP8266 powered on as little as 2x 13W LED bulbs (I've tried 2x 10.5W and it doesn't work). I've tried some of the jumpers people have posted here to get more power, but I'm unsure if they help.
@MystX said in livolo Glass Panel Touch Light Wall Switch + arduino 433Mhz:
With that + a livolo LED adapter I've managed to get a ESP8266 powered on as little as 2x 13W LED bulbs (I've tried 2x 10.5W and it doesn't work). I've tried some of the jumpers people have posted here to get more power, but I'm unsure if they help.
Why would you want to use an ESP8266 when there are solutions using only a fraction of the power that you can connect to an ESP8266 via a radio link if you really need wifi ? With the wasted power you could run a screen, RGB leds, radar module, ...
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@MystX said in livolo Glass Panel Touch Light Wall Switch + arduino 433Mhz:
With that + a livolo LED adapter I've managed to get a ESP8266 powered on as little as 2x 13W LED bulbs (I've tried 2x 10.5W and it doesn't work). I've tried some of the jumpers people have posted here to get more power, but I'm unsure if they help.
Why would you want to use an ESP8266 when there are solutions using only a fraction of the power that you can connect to an ESP8266 via a radio link if you really need wifi ? With the wasted power you could run a screen, RGB leds, radar module, ...
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@Nca78 So that I don't have to run a radio link and an esp elsewhere =)
But my post was really about the switching regulator.
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Let me explain my problem in details, I need classic impulse switch to trig lights on stairs and hall and it is available in this form factor but the problem is that this push switch isn't available with remote control functionality so my idea is to use either simple one gang switch, or curtain or 2 Gang 2 Way but of course I have to somehow 'hack' them to work as momentary switches...
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Wow what a great project, this week I'll see if I get it with 2 way 2 gan
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Well yesterday burn a livolo :'(
@camposmansi said in livolo Glass Panel Touch Light Wall Switch + arduino 433Mhz:
Well yesterday burn a livolo :'(
What did you do ? Wire the 2 way switch the wrong way ?
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@camposmansi said in livolo Glass Panel Touch Light Wall Switch + arduino 433Mhz:
Well yesterday burn a livolo :'(
What did you do ? Wire the 2 way switch the wrong way ?
@nca78 said in livolo Glass Panel Touch Light Wall Switch + arduino 433Mhz:
@camposmansi said in livolo Glass Panel Touch Light Wall Switch + arduino 433Mhz:
Well yesterday burn a livolo :'(
What did you do ? Wire the 2 way switch the wrong way ?
If I burn to the computer, in the end I made a sketch and I will use only the keypad, now I'm designing the PVC
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Hi All,
I'm trying a different approach, on how to use just the top (sensor) part of the livolo touch switch, but at the moment, i'm stuck at the PIC16f690 microcontroller functions in order to power up the LED.
I'm using a Livolo VL-C601-2 model and based on the wires on the top part, i tried to make a diagram to batter understand the schematics. (Please note that i'm missing some wires and that i have not drawn all the wires from all the pins as i could not see all of them. If something is wrong, please let me know.)
What i don't understand from the diagram below, is how does the PIC16F690 controls the two LEDs (red and blue) using only the RB4 (13) pin.
From the datasheet link here i can see that the Pin 13 (RB4) has: RB4/AN10/SDI/SDA and supports IOC
Can someone please explain to a noob in electronics how does this work and how does the pic switches from one LED to the other ?
