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  3. 💬 In Wall AC/DC Pcb for MySensors

💬 In Wall AC/DC Pcb for MySensors

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved OpenHardware.io
pcbmysx1.4inwallacdc
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  • J Offline
    J Offline
    johmei
    wrote on last edited by
    #49

    Looking at the images and schematics(V4.1) it looks like the 18B20 and LE33 are soldered in the wrong way?! old images or am I looking at this wrong?
    Still waiting for slow blow fuses so not ready to test yet.

    sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • J johmei

      Looking at the images and schematics(V4.1) it looks like the 18B20 and LE33 are soldered in the wrong way?! old images or am I looking at this wrong?
      Still waiting for slow blow fuses so not ready to test yet.

      sundberg84S Offline
      sundberg84S Offline
      sundberg84
      Hardware Contributor
      wrote on last edited by
      #50

      @johmei - some parts was supposed to be soldered from the bottom side, so it depends :)
      Keep it in mind when you are building. I might have to make this more clear somehow on the PCB as well.

      Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
      RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

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      • J Offline
        J Offline
        johmei
        wrote on last edited by
        #51

        Ok, I was reffering to the pictures of the assembled board. My half done Node (no AC) works well with the two components "the other way". confised Traced the PCB connections before testing with 5VDC. =) As long as everyone double checks what they are doing it is no problem.

        sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • J johmei

          Ok, I was reffering to the pictures of the assembled board. My half done Node (no AC) works well with the two components "the other way". confised Traced the PCB connections before testing with 5VDC. =) As long as everyone double checks what they are doing it is no problem.

          sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84
          Hardware Contributor
          wrote on last edited by
          #52

          @johmei - "everyone doublecheck what they are doing" = that is a problem ;)
          I will make a note on the page and change whats needed for next rev, thanks for notising!

          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

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          • J Offline
            J Offline
            johmei
            wrote on last edited by
            #53

            After quite a bit of abuse from resoldering components as I completely screwed up the order of things to get soldered I got the first couple of AC nodes running. These will be discarded once I get new Mini Pros to make fresh nodes without messing them up too much with my hot soldering iron. Been running them for 12 hours yesterday and everything seems fine. Great work on designing the PCBs @Sundberg84!
            One tip is to cool the thermal cutoffs well while soldering. I broke the first one cooling it with pliers + aligator clip. Next I used water soaked paper around components and legs with great results. Just be mindful not to soak "the wrong components".
            <blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/DBln7"><a href="//imgur.com/DBln7"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

            sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
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            • J johmei

              After quite a bit of abuse from resoldering components as I completely screwed up the order of things to get soldered I got the first couple of AC nodes running. These will be discarded once I get new Mini Pros to make fresh nodes without messing them up too much with my hot soldering iron. Been running them for 12 hours yesterday and everything seems fine. Great work on designing the PCBs @Sundberg84!
              One tip is to cool the thermal cutoffs well while soldering. I broke the first one cooling it with pliers + aligator clip. Next I used water soaked paper around components and legs with great results. Just be mindful not to soak "the wrong components".
              <blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/DBln7"><a href="//imgur.com/DBln7"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

              sundberg84S Offline
              sundberg84S Offline
              sundberg84
              Hardware Contributor
              wrote on last edited by
              #54

              @johmei - thank you! All tips for future revisions are appreciated! Let me know if I can do anything better and good luck with your nodes!

              Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
              RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

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              • J Offline
                J Offline
                johmei
                wrote on last edited by
                #55

                I think the nodes seem to run really well with minimal produced heat. Do you think there will be a 3D case design for the latest version PCB? Unfortunately I have no knowledge in 3D design to contribute.

                sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • J johmei

                  I think the nodes seem to run really well with minimal produced heat. Do you think there will be a 3D case design for the latest version PCB? Unfortunately I have no knowledge in 3D design to contribute.

                  sundberg84S Offline
                  sundberg84S Offline
                  sundberg84
                  Hardware Contributor
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #56

                  @johmei - sorry, its been on my list as you probably see above.
                  I will try to make one asap!

                  Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                  RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

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                  • sundberg84S Offline
                    sundberg84S Offline
                    sundberg84
                    Hardware Contributor
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #57

                    Finally I made the changes to the silk-screen so the orientation of the LE33 and Dallas temp sensor is right.
                    Project updated and sent new revision to PCB manufacturer. The right revision if you want to buy should be Rev 4 which is the latest files (PCB Rev 4.1)

                    Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                    RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

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                    • T Offline
                      T Offline
                      The-Holgi
                      wrote on last edited by The-Holgi
                      #58

                      Hello,
                      i´have purchased the in wall pcb rev.3.1.
                      0_1548178091789_IMG_2001.JPG
                      Now i´m want to cut up the right part of the pcb and powering the pcb with 5V power adapter.
                      Why is the VCC pin (lower arrow) with the arduino GND pin (upper arrow) connectet?
                      The GND pin lower side is connectet to arduino VCC pin, is that a mistake?
                      I´m think the print vcc and ground are reversed.

                      sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • T The-Holgi

                        Hello,
                        i´have purchased the in wall pcb rev.3.1.
                        0_1548178091789_IMG_2001.JPG
                        Now i´m want to cut up the right part of the pcb and powering the pcb with 5V power adapter.
                        Why is the VCC pin (lower arrow) with the arduino GND pin (upper arrow) connectet?
                        The GND pin lower side is connectet to arduino VCC pin, is that a mistake?
                        I´m think the print vcc and ground are reversed.

                        sundberg84S Offline
                        sundberg84S Offline
                        sundberg84
                        Hardware Contributor
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #59

                        @the-holgi Hi - hmm, this is an old revision and there might be misstakes as you describe. The current version is 4.1. Im traveling with work and dont have the documentation with me - but it should be quite easy to figure out if vcc and gnd are reversed by probing it with a multimeter. This PCB was not made to cut like this, but it might work - you have to try.

                        Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                        RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                        1 Reply Last reply
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                        • Y Offline
                          Y Offline
                          yoshida
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #60

                          Just FYI: I have ordered 20pcb in January, and even though they are 4.1rev (pcbway), the le33a voltage regulator's silk screen still points to the wrong direction (flat side outwards). Also the second picture here mentions 4.1 rev, but I think this is an older rev. flat side outwards will connect the le33a Vin 5V leg to the Vin for the NRF2.4 in the 4.1 rev. Or the other way is that the orientation is good, but then it should be on the other side of the board :) So if it would be on the same side like the capacitors, it would be ok. (I have realized this after the third node built up wrongly.. :) )
                          Do you know if the le33a gets 5V to the 3v3 leg, will it survive? Other components?

                          sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • Y yoshida

                            Just FYI: I have ordered 20pcb in January, and even though they are 4.1rev (pcbway), the le33a voltage regulator's silk screen still points to the wrong direction (flat side outwards). Also the second picture here mentions 4.1 rev, but I think this is an older rev. flat side outwards will connect the le33a Vin 5V leg to the Vin for the NRF2.4 in the 4.1 rev. Or the other way is that the orientation is good, but then it should be on the other side of the board :) So if it would be on the same side like the capacitors, it would be ok. (I have realized this after the third node built up wrongly.. :) )
                            Do you know if the le33a gets 5V to the 3v3 leg, will it survive? Other components?

                            sundberg84S Offline
                            sundberg84S Offline
                            sundberg84
                            Hardware Contributor
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #61

                            @yoshida - sorry, I will have a check. Either its the wrong files or it not been update at the factory.
                            Im sorry, I dont know if it will survive. You have to test it.

                            Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                            MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                            MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                            RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                            Y 1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • sundberg84S sundberg84

                              @yoshida - sorry, I will have a check. Either its the wrong files or it not been update at the factory.
                              Im sorry, I dont know if it will survive. You have to test it.

                              Y Offline
                              Y Offline
                              yoshida
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #62

                              @sundberg84 alt text

                              I was able to do a photo, so the dallas temp, and le33 "mask" is on the opposite side, I think this is the problem. (in your example pictures they are on the good side)

                              No worries, I use currently the newbie pcbs for light switching,

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