@nca78 Oh, really?! I would have guessed that the light from such "cheap LEDs from AliExpress" would be barely visible when combined with a high value resistor. I bought some assortments of leaded LEDs from China a while ago, just to have some at hand to tinker about - some of which aren't even bright enough to tell if they are lit indoors at daylight (especially green LEDs) when using a small 220R or 330R. Contrary to "branded" LEDs I've got from local distributors (probably the benefit of having an actual datasheet with specs). SMD LEDs might be a totally different thing then, regarding luminosity. Or the case size matters (smaller -> higher concentration -> tiny dot, but very bright). ... or I simply ordered garbage.

@sundberg84 - ok thanks, it makes sense ;). I was asking because I connected your Dimmable Led Strip daughterboard via MysX to this Easy PCB. Dimmer daughterboard is providing 5V on PIN3 (when LM2940CT voltage regulator is used on it). This would bring 5V to output of voltage regulator on Easy PCB so I disconnected PIN3 connection between dimmer daughterboard and Easy PCB. I connected PIN3 from dimmer board by wire to >3.3V power input of Easy PCB instead. Other option I'm thinking of would be not using voltage regulator on dimmer daughterboard at all but use its 12V raw voltage provided by dimmer board via MysX PIN1 (+ raw jumper on Easy PSB) and use voltage regulator (LE33) on Easy PCB only.

@gohan said in Arduino Pro Mini Shield for RFM69(H)W: If I remeber right that pin is used as input so the RFM69 is not receiving any 5v signal. In addition there are people claming they have the RFM69 module working on 5v on data pins and 3.3v on vcc, but I hardly suggest to do it. thank you just what i thought . about direct 5v on data...well... i seen a big red sign saying n :DONT do it! lol Level converters are so cheap...that i ordered 5 or 10 thoguether with rfm69 board. sorry about hijack this topic, i though i was on general discussion

That is what I do, I create a rule to pads with creepage and rely on my calculations. I'm rebuilding my current switch board to make it safer to use in more polluted environment, I need to use one outside (in a box, but better safe than sorry), and in a bathroom. I think that the main problem with the pads and traces spacing is the design constrains. I need to keep it in a 5x5 cm board and that is not easy, especially when you have a AC and DC circuit! I never considered the distance between AC and DC, and that is the main reason for me to rebuild my boards. After reading your post I made some researches, and I found that I had a design problem. Like you stated, I'm not a electrical engineer, and we are always learning

There are standards for PCB hole sizes. You can find Eagle parts for M2, M2.5, M3 drill holes with tight and loose clearance in my Eagle parts library. I created the parts from this blog page.

Hello How long led strips in meters i can connect to this device ? What max power led strips support it ?

Finally I made the changes to the silk-screen so the orientation of the LE33 and Dallas temp sensor is right. Project updated and sent new revision to PCB manufacturer. The right revision if you want to buy should be Rev 4 which is the latest files (PCB Rev 4.1)

@martinhjelmare: yep, I like the vid too. it's funny to see all these new materials. you are right, I will use parts of rollershutternode I think, for the ac powered version. for the batt powered, I will use my "camel" sensor board plus others thing of others boards I made. I totally agree with you. When I do something I try to keep things reusable. As I am originally software dev, I always think factorizing, libs like a toolbox...lol. But I think electronician do the same.

@Ddawme - Hi! I suggest you read all the links in the project for example: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4175/clearance-creepage-and-other-safety-aspects-in-mysensors-pcbs

@Ozal I had similar board which **pcbbasket made it for me, the cost was a bit higher, but they made exactly as I wanted. So I recommend them www.pcbbasket.com **

Did you guys managed to have it working with latest mysensors version?

@NeverDie Perhaps but the design is a bit too simple and unoriginal. I'd have to clean up the files a bit and I haven't touched Eagle since I made this board several years ago.

Original post is now updated (look at the bottom of it). (ping @bjornhallberg)

RFduino uses BLE (Bluetooth Low Energy). While this is also 2.4GHz it's not compatible with nRF24L01 in terms of protocol.

Opps, I meant to say @Bandra 's board is a great small footprint board, If you're looking for small form factor, I highly recommend his.

FYI, @Bandra hasn't been "online" for over a year.

@ferpando @rosskinard Has anyone made any headway on this project?