@tsunami My setup is max 50m radius and 433MHz standard power RFM69s so a small 1/4 wave whip works reliably even from a below ground pump chamber 10m away. Your 915MHz at 200m SHOULD work on 1/4 wave if obstacle free line of sight, but you could try a 2.4GHz Wifi router at one location and use a mobile at the other to test if you can see the router. I can see at least 3 neighbouring routers identified on my mobile from over 40m away through masonry, 10 on the laptop, so it's a simple enough test. If you can see the router on either, 915MHz should be rock solid with a simple whip and no need of directional antenna.

But it's not a cube!

Congratulations @BearWithBeard, that's a great achievement, especially from someone supposed to be a "novice". I'm sure many can learn from your lessons, the most important one to me is "don't rush it", it goes with "triple check schematic then board", "unit test your components" and "don't finish late at night". Else you will probably end up with mistakes on PCB and a lot of wasted time. For reverse polarity protection, I think this is the more simple solution: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/5478/how-to-get-longest-battery-life/25

@kiesel - the number is set to 10 and this is nothing I can change, sorry. You can PM me about which setting you need to set and I can help you.

@gohan said in Arduino Pro Mini Shield for RFM69(H)W: If I remeber right that pin is used as input so the RFM69 is not receiving any 5v signal. In addition there are people claming they have the RFM69 module working on 5v on data pins and 3.3v on vcc, but I hardly suggest to do it. thank you just what i thought . about direct 5v on data...well... i seen a big red sign saying n :DONT do it! lol Level converters are so cheap...that i ordered 5 or 10 thoguether with rfm69 board. sorry about hijack this topic, i though i was on general discussion

That is what I do, I create a rule to pads with creepage and rely on my calculations. I'm rebuilding my current switch board to make it safer to use in more polluted environment, I need to use one outside (in a box, but better safe than sorry), and in a bathroom. I think that the main problem with the pads and traces spacing is the design constrains. I need to keep it in a 5x5 cm board and that is not easy, especially when you have a AC and DC circuit! I never considered the distance between AC and DC, and that is the main reason for me to rebuild my boards. After reading your post I made some researches, and I found that I had a design problem. Like you stated, I'm not a electrical engineer, and we are always learning

There are standards for PCB hole sizes. You can find Eagle parts for M2, M2.5, M3 drill holes with tight and loose clearance in my Eagle parts library. I created the parts from this blog page.

With how long max tape you test it ? I have a living room and i need control RGBW with about 16 meters.... I can use your controller ?

@sundberg84 I was able to do a photo, so the dallas temp, and le33 "mask" is on the opposite side, I think this is the problem. (in your example pictures they are on the good side) No worries, I use currently the newbie pcbs for light switching,

@sundberg84 I know that everything I've read says the radio cannot use 5v, but when hooked up to my bench power supply and connecting my multimeter leads to the NRF24L01+, it says it's getting 5v AND it's the only scenario where the node can successfully find the gateway and send/receive data. I tried swapping out the radio and it was the exact same scenario. I'm getting NACK debugging messages on the gateway when it's trying to accept the node as a child. The only thing I haven't tried is replacing the booster. For the moment, I wired up a second node with all new components and (after remembering to solder everything) it connected to the gateway right away. It's been running for about 30 minutes, so I'll post back after a time when I know if it will stop working or run until the batteries drain completely. Side note: thanks for making such an awesome board!

@martinhjelmare: yep, I like the vid too. it's funny to see all these new materials. you are right, I will use parts of rollershutternode I think, for the ac powered version. for the batt powered, I will use my "camel" sensor board plus others thing of others boards I made. I totally agree with you. When I do something I try to keep things reusable. As I am originally software dev, I always think factorizing, libs like a toolbox...lol. But I think electronician do the same.

@Ddawme - Hi! I suggest you read all the links in the project for example: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4175/clearance-creepage-and-other-safety-aspects-in-mysensors-pcbs

@Ozal I had similar board which **pcbbasket made it for me, the cost was a bit higher, but they made exactly as I wanted. So I recommend them www.pcbbasket.com **

Did you guys managed to have it working with latest mysensors version?

@NeverDie Perhaps but the design is a bit too simple and unoriginal. I'd have to clean up the files a bit and I haven't touched Eagle since I made this board several years ago.

Original post is now updated (look at the bottom of it). (ping @bjornhallberg)

RFduino uses BLE (Bluetooth Low Energy). While this is also 2.4GHz it's not compatible with nRF24L01 in terms of protocol.

Opps, I meant to say @Bandra 's board is a great small footprint board, If you're looking for small form factor, I highly recommend his.

FYI, @Bandra hasn't been "online" for over a year.

@ferpando @rosskinard Has anyone made any headway on this project?