@tsunami My setup is max 50m radius and 433MHz standard power RFM69s so a small 1/4 wave whip works reliably even from a below ground pump chamber 10m away. Your 915MHz at 200m SHOULD work on 1/4 wave if obstacle free line of sight, but you could try a 2.4GHz Wifi router at one location and use a mobile at the other to test if you can see the router. I can see at least 3 neighbouring routers identified on my mobile from over 40m away through masonry, 10 on the laptop, so it's a simple enough test. If you can see the router on either, 915MHz should be rock solid with a simple whip and no need of directional antenna.

But it's not a cube!

No, I didn't seriously consider it. I have a minimal programming circuit with ZIF-sockets to program DIPs, but those are easily removed from a circuit (assuming they are put into sockets and not soldered) in case they need to be reproprammed . Doing this with a TQFP seems like a one-way road, so I think a way for in-circuit programming should be provided regardless. I mean, I didn't have to reprogram my first revision nodes so far, but I might want to add signing support later on or upgrade to MySensors 2.4 or 3.0 for some reason, so it should definitely be possible, but I'm not too worried, if the programming process is a little cumbersome, if the SOICbite experiment doesn't work out.

@hlehoux - nice once! Thanks for sharing!

@gohan said in Arduino Pro Mini Shield for RFM69(H)W: If I remeber right that pin is used as input so the RFM69 is not receiving any 5v signal. In addition there are people claming they have the RFM69 module working on 5v on data pins and 3.3v on vcc, but I hardly suggest to do it. thank you just what i thought . about direct 5v on data...well... i seen a big red sign saying n :DONT do it! lol Level converters are so cheap...that i ordered 5 or 10 thoguether with rfm69 board. sorry about hijack this topic, i though i was on general discussion

@JohanH - thanks for your reply! I also hope and think people who build commercial products have knowledge of this But as a hobbyist, there are two ways to go - either you dont have to care or go bare minimum, if something happens its your own fault, or you can try to make is as safe as possible. My idea was never to make this thread a information source for a commercial product. I wanted to try to make my own products as safe as possible since I have children around. With that in mind, i want to be on the safe side of things so some things i use from here might be exaggerated. But my PCB (HLK-PM01 breakout) is working great, and I feel safe. I have had it outdoors (under roof covered in IP5* box, -20 to +30 aprox) and its been working for me for a couple of years now. Better than I had before, when i just stripped an old fake samsung charger. /Andreas

There are standards for PCB hole sizes. You can find Eagle parts for M2, M2.5, M3 drill holes with tight and loose clearance in my Eagle parts library. I created the parts from this blog page.

With how long max tape you test it ? I have a living room and i need control RGBW with about 16 meters.... I can use your controller ?

@sundberg84 I was able to do a photo, so the dallas temp, and le33 "mask" is on the opposite side, I think this is the problem. (in your example pictures they are on the good side) No worries, I use currently the newbie pcbs for light switching,

@benhub - ok, there are some things you need to consider, and that is the space of the adapter. I read now i "suggested" this adapter, but let me clear it it is not tested, maybe a language barrier from my side. You need to consider that it fits in the board and do not crash into other compontens, like the arduino. If it does, you maybe need to consider some other board or even build one.

@martinhjelmare: yep, I like the vid too. it's funny to see all these new materials. you are right, I will use parts of rollershutternode I think, for the ac powered version. for the batt powered, I will use my "camel" sensor board plus others thing of others boards I made. I totally agree with you. When I do something I try to keep things reusable. As I am originally software dev, I always think factorizing, libs like a toolbox...lol. But I think electronician do the same.

@Ddawme - Hi! I suggest you read all the links in the project for example: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4175/clearance-creepage-and-other-safety-aspects-in-mysensors-pcbs

@Ozal I had similar board which **pcbbasket made it for me, the cost was a bit higher, but they made exactly as I wanted. So I recommend them www.pcbbasket.com **

Did you guys managed to have it working with latest mysensors version?

@NeverDie Perhaps but the design is a bit too simple and unoriginal. I'd have to clean up the files a bit and I haven't touched Eagle since I made this board several years ago.

Original post is now updated (look at the bottom of it). (ping @bjornhallberg)

RFduino uses BLE (Bluetooth Low Energy). While this is also 2.4GHz it's not compatible with nRF24L01 in terms of protocol.

Opps, I meant to say @Bandra 's board is a great small footprint board, If you're looking for small form factor, I highly recommend his.

FYI, @Bandra hasn't been "online" for over a year.

@ferpando @rosskinard Has anyone made any headway on this project?