But it's not a cube!

Congratulations @BearWithBeard, that's a great achievement, especially from someone supposed to be a "novice". I'm sure many can learn from your lessons, the most important one to me is "don't rush it", it goes with "triple check schematic then board", "unit test your components" and "don't finish late at night". Else you will probably end up with mistakes on PCB and a lot of wasted time. For reverse polarity protection, I think this is the more simple solution: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/5478/how-to-get-longest-battery-life/25

@emdzej - I'm not sure but it's designed for 3.3v. you have to check the rfm radio for Max input voltage on VCC and io. I think it's 3.3v so you might have to regulate down your lipo battery to this.

@gohan said in Arduino Pro Mini Shield for RFM69(H)W: If I remeber right that pin is used as input so the RFM69 is not receiving any 5v signal. In addition there are people claming they have the RFM69 module working on 5v on data pins and 3.3v on vcc, but I hardly suggest to do it. thank you just what i thought . about direct 5v on data...well... i seen a big red sign saying n :DONT do it! lol Level converters are so cheap...that i ordered 5 or 10 thoguether with rfm69 board. sorry about hijack this topic, i though i was on general discussion

That is what I do, I create a rule to pads with creepage and rely on my calculations. I'm rebuilding my current switch board to make it safer to use in more polluted environment, I need to use one outside (in a box, but better safe than sorry), and in a bathroom. I think that the main problem with the pads and traces spacing is the design constrains. I need to keep it in a 5x5 cm board and that is not easy, especially when you have a AC and DC circuit! I never considered the distance between AC and DC, and that is the main reason for me to rebuild my boards. After reading your post I made some researches, and I found that I had a design problem. Like you stated, I'm not a electrical engineer, and we are always learning

There are standards for PCB hole sizes. You can find Eagle parts for M2, M2.5, M3 drill holes with tight and loose clearance in my Eagle parts library. I created the parts from this blog page.

@aramko at first, he shared a link with the preloaded board on dirtypcbs (http://dirtypcbs.com/store/designer/details/7078/867/mysensors-rgbw-controller-v1-3). If you want to upload the files by yourself, you have to zip all the files and upload them.. take a look here under "ordering" (https://dirtypcbs.com/store/pcbs/about)

@sundberg84 I was able to do a photo, so the dallas temp, and le33 "mask" is on the opposite side, I think this is the problem. (in your example pictures they are on the good side) No worries, I use currently the newbie pcbs for light switching,

I just checked my batch of Rev 10, random check of the batch checked out OK. I have 20 boards.

@martinhjelmare: yep, I like the vid too. it's funny to see all these new materials. you are right, I will use parts of rollershutternode I think, for the ac powered version. for the batt powered, I will use my "camel" sensor board plus others thing of others boards I made. I totally agree with you. When I do something I try to keep things reusable. As I am originally software dev, I always think factorizing, libs like a toolbox...lol. But I think electronician do the same.

@Ddawme - Hi! I suggest you read all the links in the project for example: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4175/clearance-creepage-and-other-safety-aspects-in-mysensors-pcbs

@Ozal I had similar board which **pcbbasket made it for me, the cost was a bit higher, but they made exactly as I wanted. So I recommend them www.pcbbasket.com **

Did you guys managed to have it working with latest mysensors version?

@NeverDie Perhaps but the design is a bit too simple and unoriginal. I'd have to clean up the files a bit and I haven't touched Eagle since I made this board several years ago.

Original post is now updated (look at the bottom of it). (ping @bjornhallberg)

RFduino uses BLE (Bluetooth Low Energy). While this is also 2.4GHz it's not compatible with nRF24L01 in terms of protocol.

Opps, I meant to say @Bandra 's board is a great small footprint board, If you're looking for small form factor, I highly recommend his.

FYI, @Bandra hasn't been "online" for over a year.

@ferpando @rosskinard Has anyone made any headway on this project?