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new 600Mhz Teensy 4.0 blows away everything on performance

NeverDie Hero Member last edited by NeverDie

This chart tells the tale:

What to do with all that speed? Become a software defined radio, maybe? Or perhaps run the entire development toolchain on the device itself?
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alowhum Plugin Developer last edited by

Machine learning?
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mfalkvidd Mod last edited by @alowhum

@alowhum good point. Maybe not learning, but inference could be very useful.
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I have built 2 nodes with E01-ML01S (the cheapest module) and I have pretty good experience with them so far. I didn't have to use any capacitors to improve range, they are directly connected to some medium-quality Arduino Nano GND/3.3V. One of them is a lighting controller node, ~3 meters from the PA/LNA gateway (+ a 30cm wall) on the same level as the gateway. The other one is a repeter node and is ~10 meters from the gateway (+ a 20cm wall, same level as the gateway). In this case, radio orientation was important to get a good signal. One of the test modules could communicate with the gateway through 2 walls and a the ceiling (steel-bar reinforced). All-in-all, I am satisfied with the signal stability of these modules. It is a bit finicky to solder the wires to the module because the pads are very small. I always put some solder on the pads first and reheat when I attach the wires.
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@mfalkvidd Good point. I don't know too much about the library, but if that's all it takes, I'll definitely try it.
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Thanks for the news flash. I'm guessing they'll rebuild pretty quickly though, since time is money. Another factor to consider, which I haven't got a handle on: there's a wide gulf between hobbyist solar panels and commercial-grade high end solar panels. For instance, in terms of longevity and performance, frameless "double glass" solar panels are thought to the best quality money can buy, in part because they're warrantied to last 30+ years: 1. the double glass means they don't rely on an EVA encapsulant that will turn brown and fail over time, and 2. frameless means they're more apt to clean themselves from just regular rain and wind. I've never seen a hobby, small version of that available though. The trouble is: in a lot of cases, solar only makes sense if it has longevity. If, like garden lights, you have to replace them every year (or every couple of months when the quality is especially egregious), then the cheap stuff is just false economy. I'm not sure whether there are even any generally recognized applicable standards. Like an ANSI of some kind? Otherwise, what you get is just whatever falls out of Pandora's box.
anyone can tell me what this Hardware/Sensor/Module is?
Hardware • • ANTaro

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@Nca78 Thank you so much for your time, i didn't use the stepper motor yet and so i didn't pay attention to what came with it, thank you very much.
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@skywatch said in Solar/battery powering: @zboblamont said in Solar/battery powering: @rejoe2 Anti-freeze. But then the hot water would not be suitable to shower/cleaning/pool etc and you then have to go to a heat exchange tank, somewhere to put it and insulate it and pipe to it. I am sure is can be done, but the fact that it is not 'standard' hints at it being costlly or impractical or both. In fact, imo it's highly recommended to use a seperate circle for the "transport medium" (typically: antifreeze liquid)! Otherwise you will at some point in time get problems with corrosion or deposited dirt particles if media would be continuously renewed. Dependent on the needed amounts of (potable) warm water, it might even be a good idea to have three circles (medium for panel, heating water, potable water). But tanks, heat exchangers and so on (including steering electronics ) are (relatively inexpensive) standard components - at least here in Germany. So imo technical complexity isn't a thing to worry about too much. But as already mentionned: I really doubt, if you will have a financial benefit out of such an installation, if you have to built it from scratch nowerdays. Additionally: have a close look, how big the need for hot water really is - in most cases, e.g. 5m² panel size for a family of 4 persons should be enough for hot water supply in middle Europe (+300l tank volume). As soon as heating is involved, you'll need much higher tank volumes - with no benefit in summer, but not sufficient capacity on roof top or tank volume in winter times? @rejoe2 Agreed! - But it's not OT as you could mysensors the hell out of such an installation! Indeed, buiding one's own MySensors-based controller for such a hybrid heating ecosystem would be right on topic - but not in this thread here... Fyi: One of my very first things to get done with MySensors had been around my (gas based) central heating system; we have some tubes installed that would allow medium transport from roof to cellar. But to be honest, atm. I'm not willing to invest in tanks etc.; it's just not cost efficient, even if I would do a lot of the installation work myself....
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@gregvp Hi gregvp, thanks. The wire moves both axially and radially. It is being reeled and unreeled continuously. About 100 inches per second axially, much slower radially. It moves about 30 feet, close to its full length. It is a stranded wire, about 1mm thick. It's in a very accessible place. No such big environmental considerations. It doesn't connect anything, everything can be altered except the wire itself. It is not possible to inject a signal because I can't cut into its protective coating, just to avoid the coating stripping off during such a long test. It doesn't carry any signal, it's just part of the physical device. It has an aluminum testing apparatus that we can alter in any way. We just need to know when the wire breaks, if it ever does. Thanks for your interest in this problem. I'm hoping this helps give people any ideas that might be feasible. I think we might try a laser but I'm concerned the receiving window will be too small. We'll see though
APDS9960 - Gesture Sensor and MySensors Sleep
Hardware • • Westie

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I did more investigation played around with sleep outside of mysensors and found a bit of code in a proximity sensor example: // Reset flag and clear APDS-9960 interrupt (IMPORTANT!) isr_flag = 0; if ( !apds.clearProximityInt() ) { Serial.println("Error clearing interrupt"); } I then needed to play around with delays to allow the sensor to catchup.. void loop() { delay(1000); Recoding back to MySensors if ( !apds.clearProximityInt() ) { Serial.println("Error clearing interrupt"); } wakeupReason = sleep(digitalPinToInterrupt(INT_PIN), FALLING, sleepTime); setting up the interrupt pin with a pullup forced the FALLING when pin dragged down by the sensor. void setup() { pinMode(INT_PIN, INPUT_PULLUP); All this is on caveat it makes it through some more testing.
Second setup, choosing a radio
Hardware • • projectMarvin

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@projectMarvin here's the next gen project that is actually a HW sensorTag but also mainly an nRF52840 firmware compatible with openthread and my previous gen simple mesh framework. The openthread is quite simple as you no longer have to worry about app layer when using directly json from the uC https://www.homesmartmesh.com/docs/microcontrollers/nrf52/thread_sensortag/

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