Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??

[matz]

@sundberg84
Quite small, so.

In a link above i've seen a review of the HLK from one guy who seems to know about electronics.

He recommends using the VIGORTRONIX VTX-214-005-105 AC/DC PCB Mount Power Supply . He said "for only a few quid more you win a switch mode PSU that stands a chance of not requiring external components to pass Class B!"

Anyone here has tested the Vigortronix ? Is it better than HLK ?

[dbemowsk]

@matz Never tried the Vigortronix, but I tried some from a company called Recom that were pretty good. Quite a bit higher in price though too.

[matz]

@dbemowsk
Ok thanks. I will try to build the sundberg84 board but i will try also to find a case built with a 3D printer as i prefer not to let all this stuff unprotected in case someone else than me in the futur open the wall socket

[dbemowsk]

@matz Now that I have had my 3D printer for a year, I don't know why I didn't get one sooner. FOr these very reasons. If I need a case for something, I cad it out and make it.

[matz]

@dbemowsk
I'm planning to buy one, i'm sure there are plenty usage of it (sorry for my bad english i'm french :))

Concerning the PSU, one question : we could just disasemble an iphone charger, the small one is 5cm x 1,5cm x 3 cm, and reuse it in the wall. IMHO it is more safe than build ourselves a PSU. Has anybody tried this ?

[dbemowsk]

@matz Why disassemble it other than to solder on some external power wires. Leave the original protection in place and you shouldn't have to worry about shorting anything out.

[matz]

@dbemowsk
I'm afraid it won't fit in the wall socket because of the metal stem, so it would be better to solder the power wires to it :

[Nca78]

@matz said in Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??:

(sorry for my bad english i'm french :))

Ce n'est pas une excuse valable :P

@matz said in Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??:

@dbemowsk
I'm afraid it won't fit in the wall socket because of the metal stem, so it would be better to solder the power wires to it :

It doesn't look like an official charger, or even a branded one ? Then you would meet the same safety problems than the cheap power supplies. In that case have a look at http://lygte-info.dk/ to check if you can find a charger that's on the "safer side" of things.

[sundberg84]

@matz the problem with phoneadapters are all the fake and truly unsafe ones. Just Google phone charger teardown. If you are sure you are buying a genuine one it's most likely quite expensive. Safety vs money is one of the key aspects in this thread and offcourse you can probably buy smaller and safer ones but you are going to pay for it.

[arp5z5]

Hi guys (and gals?) new member here, and probably an absolute novice compared to most of you; however, I have been following this thread for quite some time. I recently acquired the components listed out by @petewill (thank you for the inspiration to try the project), and I have constructed the circuit in tune to the schematic also generously provided by @petewill. The only difference in my set up is that I have gone with a WeMos D1 mini instead of the arduino/radio combo solely due to having one laying around. The WeMos to relay connection works (as in flicks on/off the LED on the relay) in tune with the automation software I am using when the WeMos is being powered by micro USB. However, when attempting to power the circuit via a 120V outlet, I seem to keep blowing the 250V 300mA Slow Blow Fuse. In short, the LED on the WeMos briefly emits light, and then shuts off. When troubleshooting the circuit with a multimeter, I find that no current is flowing through the Slow Blow Fuse (therefore blown). I was wondering if anyone might have some ideas as to why this is happening despite the fuse being rated with the proper current and voltage ratings. I assume that there is a short occurring somewhere in the circuit; however, due to my novice knowledge, I have no idea why. I would greatly appreciate any and all pointers/criticism! Thank you. https://imgur.com/0Iy0UwY https://imgur.com/a/ZuSlb

[sundberg84]

@arp5z5 - my first thought was just like you said - a short. I would 1) remove everything from the DC side and replace the fuse. Then with a multimeter in continuity-mode see that you dont have a short on the AC side between Hot and Neutral. Did you wire everything correctly? If so - might be a bad varistor? If you dont get a beep - (with a new fuse) power everything up (without DC parts and see what happens. Works ok? Continue to add DC parts untill something happens.

[arp5z5]

@sundberg84 Thank you for the advice! I will take a look at it tomorrow and see what I can find.

[Omemanti]

hey,

anyone have experience with:
https://nl.mouser.com/ProductDetail/RECOM-Power/RAC01-05SGB?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuWiaalG5TUgCAeS4T2q9hep7l40%2FsKBt80J%252brWHE6eLg%3D%3D

It looks affordable and more regulated than the Chines modules.

some other variations: https://nl.mouser.com/RECOM/Power/Power-Supplies/AC-DC-Power-Modules/_/N-dv0g5?P=1yx5k7vZ1yzk8kkZ1yxt78rZ1yxt794Z1yxt791&Ns=Pricing|0

[dbemowsk]

@omemanti I have used some other RECOM modules and they are pretty solid. I like the fact that the incoming power leads are spread out to the edges rather than close in the center on the HLK modules. That alone makes them a heap safer.

[Soloam]

I give up on soldering Temperature Fuses, for every one that I'm able to solder I blow up 5 of temperature rising from the solder. It would be a good safety improvement, but I'm going crazy with fazes burning :white_frowning_face: :neutral_face: :triumph: any recommendation? Who are you guys soldering without blowing them up?

[dbemowsk]

@soloam I too had great trouble with this. The best trick that I found was to have the side of the board with the fuse on it resting on a frozen gel pack while soldering. As long as you keep the fuse cold it should not blow. It is called a thermal fuse for a reason. I have talked to others that have had some success with aluminum heat sink clips like these that you would clamp on the lead that you are soldering to pull the heat away before it reaches the fuse.

I still prefer the gel pack solution though. If you set yourself up right with the gel pack, you can have the cold pack pressing the thermal fuse against the power supply module as you solder which is where you want it anyway.

[Soloam]

@dbemowsk are you talking about this:

I'll try it out.

where can I find that clamps? To try out also?

Thank You

[dbemowsk]

@soloam Those are the type I am talking about. Put them in the freezer for a bit. They should still be pliable when they come out.
https://www.amazon.com/CLIP-HEAT-SINK-KIT/dp/B0032UYTV6

[TD22057]

You don't really have to buy anything - lots of things will work to keep the temperature down. A wet paper towel wrapped around the fuse or submerge it in a small cup of water (easy for through hole components when the board is upside down) or wrap with 2 wet sponges and some rubber bands, etc etc.

[jeremushka]

@sundberg84 I am building an efficient AC/DC power supply to avoid using the HLK-PM01. I design the power supply with flyback topology with high safety as it is fully isolated.
in the current design i selected the component BF1550. It is a high performance AC/DC power supply control
device which is operating in primary side sensing and regulation. It includes an internal power BJT and is designed for off-line power supplies within 6W output power.
Based on that, i designed the transformer. I need to find a factory to produce it.
My goal is to introduce in any nodes this AC/DC power supply for safety reason and efficiency DC regulation.