After 4 months of finishing the new house, i finally started to build in my sensors

Do need to build a new repeater, since a part of the sensors are out of reach.

After months of slow painstaking work (day job is somewhat busy, o and the kids ) I finally completed my Domoticz server(case) with Dashticz as frontend.

The Endgame; when my new house is finished every room is monitored for motion, RH and Temperature using my MySensors PCB's. (Jung AS500 Node)

Everything is monitored using a raspberry with a MySensors serial gateway (NRF52) and an RFLink controller for my KAKU switches.

To make everything nice and shiny I use Dasticz to interface the data in a proper way using a tablet that somehow will be mounted on a wall or something.

So far the introduction;
To put everything away nice and tidy I used a box to install everything using 2 pieces of din-rail.
It has a 230V inlet that is converted to 5V using an off the shelf (safety sake) MeanWell RS-15-5 converter. This powers everything using a couple of din-Rail terminals.

• Terminal => USB-micro => Raspberry
• Terminal => just a couple of wires => old nrf52 prototype => FTDI => Raspberry
• Raspberry => RF-link (ard. Mega +433mhz)

Since the Raspberry has Wifi no other cable then power is needed to operate

Second part: the 2 screenshots of dasthicsz.

The best part, it took some work, but the WAF incread big time, because everything looks clean

For those who are, just like me, trying to switch form Eagle to KiCad.

I found : https://www.snapeda.com/parts/add/

You can upload Eagle parts etc, and convert them to their KiCad counterparts.
Its not flawless, as far as I can see it seems OK to give it a try.

For anyone interested, and to correct my mistakes, I just put up an NRF52 node that is powered by an off the shelf ac/dc converter to be used as a repeater node.. feel free to comment

https://www.openhardware.io/view/613/NRF52-Wall-Node-ACDC

This topic did most of the research for me, so thank you

Today I finally assembled some of my new PCB's

2 New front PCB's (a repeater and a LED-Dimmer)
1 New Back PCB that can be used as just an AC/DC power supply or as part of the AC current side of the LED-Dimmer

The last inwall repeater I made was just one PCB, and during installation, I got zapped , so I tried to make a 3D design to counter that.
The part that is the furthest in the wall is the AC side, and the microcontrollers, etc (DC-side) are at the front. Both are connected using 4 pins and are fastened by 4, 3m standoffs

I think this is much safer when, for instance, the front cover is taken off. (i use the same design as: LINK)

Pictures show the FL5150 dimmer at the front and its compatible backside.
When the testing is done, I also want to connect a touch sensor to it, so the dimmer can be controlled remotely as well by touch.

https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6961/nrf5-action/1659

That fixed it.

@sundberg84 "well, it seems like I can only get KiCad to make 45dgr tracks"

References => General Settings => Limit graphics lines to 45 degrees

@neverdie it's the AM612, and in the little tests I did so far, it did great.

Here in the Netherlands, schools and daycares are closed for a week now, and stays so at least until the 6th of April. Only people with vital occupations can drop their kids off (hospital personal, and people who work for food companies etc. )

For the rest, they advise to stay at home and if you need to go out, stay at least 1,5m away from one another. No lockdown yet, they hope these measures will help flatten the curve.

But people are so very stupid atm. "hey its sunny, let's all go to the park/beach/(fill in crowded place)". I fear that for this reason, they will have a lockdown anytime soon.

@Nca78
Getting rid of the ground plains around the entire module hugely improved the range. Had to stap back to AAA batteries to fit on the board. But I'm happy with the way it's going (AA is still possible but not soldered on it just doesn't fit enough in the wall socket)

Here in the Netherlands, schools and daycares are closed for a week now, and stays so at least until the 6th of April. Only people with vital occupations can drop their kids off (hospital personal, and people who work for food companies etc. )

For the rest, they advise to stay at home and if you need to go out, stay at least 1,5m away from one another. No lockdown yet, they hope these measures will help flatten the curve.

But people are so very stupid atm. "hey its sunny, let's all go to the park/beach/(fill in crowded place)". I fear that for this reason, they will have a lockdown anytime soon.

Hey all,
I want to upgrade my system to be able to use MQTT.

ATM, I'm using a ESP8266 (ESP-link) with an Ebyte NRF52832 as a mysensors gateway (LINK)

Can anyone point me on how to achieve this.
So my goal is:
Let all my NRF52832 mysensor nodes report to an MQTT broker (preferably bound to an ESP8266)

Who can point me in the right direction, or even better, tell me how to achieve this.

This is amazing, and comes at the right time!
I just finished my kitchen and forgot to put a neutral line in for my remote switch.

This sounds very promising.

Today I finally assembled some of my new PCB's

2 New front PCB's (a repeater and a LED-Dimmer)
1 New Back PCB that can be used as just an AC/DC power supply or as part of the AC current side of the LED-Dimmer

The last inwall repeater I made was just one PCB, and during installation, I got zapped , so I tried to make a 3D design to counter that.
The part that is the furthest in the wall is the AC side, and the microcontrollers, etc (DC-side) are at the front. Both are connected using 4 pins and are fastened by 4, 3m standoffs

I think this is much safer when, for instance, the front cover is taken off. (i use the same design as: LINK)

Pictures show the FL5150 dimmer at the front and its compatible backside.
When the testing is done, I also want to connect a touch sensor to it, so the dimmer can be controlled remotely as well by touch.

@kiesel said in Help: Some explanation requested regarding NACK:

e you able to solve this? I am also experiencing a lot of NACKs in my rfm69 network (868mhz)

Nope, not that I can remember.
BTW: I ditched the rfm69 and moved over to the NRF52.

@nagelc Its al from jung. Series AS500. Its hard for me to search for sellers in the US.. Google forces me to search in the Netherlands.

My understanding that the standard inwall boxes in North America are pretty different than in Europe /Netherlands . The types I use always look like this

But I'll share my kicad files on openhardware.io, only thing you have to do is change the backplate.

This sensor : link

Also made a repeater, but this one is fairly unsafe( I got zapped installing it ). I just got the PCB's for a safer version I hope I can post pictures when everything works.

After 4 months of finishing the new house, i finally started to build in my sensors

Do need to build a new repeater, since a part of the sensors are out of reach.

@jimmyjames said in Question: FL5150 LED Dimmer - replace a analog potentiometer with a digital one:

a great looking design you've made there it looks very g

Thnx,

yesterday I finally installed my things after 2 months of moving. Going to try and make a new PCB using a NRF52 and the DAC you used. hopefully it will finally succeed to make a safe inwall socket.

@mmgross

I use a MCP4017T digital pot. the 50K one. I tested it, it worked. the dimming range isnt that great, but i think I have between 10% and 75% . To turn it off I have a mosfet to pull the DIMcontrol to GND and a mosfet to let DIMcontrol float (full on).

since the range that I have is limited, im curious how the DAC will operate.

When I look at the schematic from @jimmyjames, I see that he uses the mcp4716a0t-e/ch as DAC.

@jimmyjames Cool, I tried a DAC, but since my inexperience, I didn't get it to work with the FL5150.

I just received the PCB's I ordered and use a 50K digi-Pot. But now I want to use the DAC..
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