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Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??

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  • sundberg84S sundberg84

    @arp5z5 - my first thought was just like you said - a short. I would 1) remove everything from the DC side and replace the fuse. Then with a multimeter in continuity-mode see that you dont have a short on the AC side between Hot and Neutral. Did you wire everything correctly? If so - might be a bad varistor? If you dont get a beep - (with a new fuse) power everything up (without DC parts and see what happens. Works ok? Continue to add DC parts untill something happens.

    A Offline
    A Offline
    arp5z5
    wrote on last edited by
    #416

    @sundberg84 Thank you for the advice! I will take a look at it tomorrow and see what I can find.

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • O Offline
      O Offline
      Omemanti
      wrote on last edited by Omemanti
      #417

      hey,

      anyone have experience with:
      https://nl.mouser.com/ProductDetail/RECOM-Power/RAC01-05SGB?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuWiaalG5TUgCAeS4T2q9hep7l40%2FsKBt80J%252brWHE6eLg%3D%3D

      It looks affordable and more regulated than the Chines modules.

      some other variations: https://nl.mouser.com/RECOM/Power/Power-Supplies/AC-DC-Power-Modules/_/N-dv0g5?P=1yx5k7vZ1yzk8kkZ1yxt78rZ1yxt794Z1yxt791&Ns=Pricing|0

      dbemowskD 1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • O Omemanti

        hey,

        anyone have experience with:
        https://nl.mouser.com/ProductDetail/RECOM-Power/RAC01-05SGB?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuWiaalG5TUgCAeS4T2q9hep7l40%2FsKBt80J%252brWHE6eLg%3D%3D

        It looks affordable and more regulated than the Chines modules.

        some other variations: https://nl.mouser.com/RECOM/Power/Power-Supplies/AC-DC-Power-Modules/_/N-dv0g5?P=1yx5k7vZ1yzk8kkZ1yxt78rZ1yxt794Z1yxt791&Ns=Pricing|0

        dbemowskD Offline
        dbemowskD Offline
        dbemowsk
        wrote on last edited by
        #418

        @omemanti I have used some other RECOM modules and they are pretty solid. I like the fact that the incoming power leads are spread out to the edges rather than close in the center on the HLK modules. That alone makes them a heap safer.

        Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
        Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

        1 Reply Last reply
        1
        • SoloamS Offline
          SoloamS Offline
          Soloam
          Hardware Contributor
          wrote on last edited by Soloam
          #419

          I give up on soldering Temperature Fuses, for every one that I'm able to solder I blow up 5 of temperature rising from the solder. It would be a good safety improvement, but I'm going crazy with fazes burning :white_frowning_face: :neutral_face: :triumph: any recommendation? Who are you guys soldering without blowing them up?

          dbemowskD 1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • SoloamS Soloam

            I give up on soldering Temperature Fuses, for every one that I'm able to solder I blow up 5 of temperature rising from the solder. It would be a good safety improvement, but I'm going crazy with fazes burning :white_frowning_face: :neutral_face: :triumph: any recommendation? Who are you guys soldering without blowing them up?

            dbemowskD Offline
            dbemowskD Offline
            dbemowsk
            wrote on last edited by
            #420

            @soloam I too had great trouble with this. The best trick that I found was to have the side of the board with the fuse on it resting on a frozen gel pack while soldering. As long as you keep the fuse cold it should not blow. It is called a thermal fuse for a reason. I have talked to others that have had some success with aluminum heat sink clips like these that you would clamp on the lead that you are soldering to pull the heat away before it reaches the fuse.
            0_1524592366376_53366f12-847e-4617-85ec-b97d3c5af8c2-image.png

            I still prefer the gel pack solution though. If you set yourself up right with the gel pack, you can have the cold pack pressing the thermal fuse against the power supply module as you solder which is where you want it anyway.

            Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
            Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • SoloamS Offline
              SoloamS Offline
              Soloam
              Hardware Contributor
              wrote on last edited by
              #421

              @dbemowsk are you talking about this:

              alt text

              I'll try it out.

              where can I find that clamps? To try out also?

              Thank You

              dbemowskD 1 Reply Last reply
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              • SoloamS Soloam

                @dbemowsk are you talking about this:

                alt text

                I'll try it out.

                where can I find that clamps? To try out also?

                Thank You

                dbemowskD Offline
                dbemowskD Offline
                dbemowsk
                wrote on last edited by
                #422

                @soloam Those are the type I am talking about. Put them in the freezer for a bit. They should still be pliable when they come out.
                https://www.amazon.com/CLIP-HEAT-SINK-KIT/dp/B0032UYTV6

                Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                T 1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • TD22057T Offline
                  TD22057T Offline
                  TD22057
                  Hardware Contributor
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #423

                  You don't really have to buy anything - lots of things will work to keep the temperature down. A wet paper towel wrapped around the fuse or submerge it in a small cup of water (easy for through hole components when the board is upside down) or wrap with 2 wet sponges and some rubber bands, etc etc.

                  1 Reply Last reply
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                  • sundberg84S sundberg84

                    @matz the problem with phoneadapters are all the fake and truly unsafe ones. Just Google phone charger teardown. If you are sure you are buying a genuine one it's most likely quite expensive. Safety vs money is one of the key aspects in this thread and offcourse you can probably buy smaller and safer ones but you are going to pay for it.

                    jeremushkaJ Offline
                    jeremushkaJ Offline
                    jeremushka
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #424

                    @sundberg84 I am building an efficient AC/DC power supply to avoid using the HLK-PM01. I design the power supply with flyback topology with high safety as it is fully isolated.
                    in the current design i selected the component BF1550. It is a high performance AC/DC power supply control
                    device which is operating in primary side sensing and regulation. It includes an internal power BJT and is designed for off-line power supplies within 6W output power.
                    Based on that, i designed the transformer. I need to find a factory to produce it.
                    My goal is to introduce in any nodes this AC/DC power supply for safety reason and efficiency DC regulation.

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    1
                    • beicB Offline
                      beicB Offline
                      beic
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #425

                      I know it's an old topic, but I need to ask...

                      I read all this things mentioned on this topic, but at the end I did not find any answer to the fuses and for the varistor.

                      So, I wonder what values was used:

                      1. for fuses on mains 230v and for the 5V DC side?
                      2. I don't see any varistor values like 10D271K, 10D471K or 10D561K?

                      And also one suggestion about that thermal fuse, it would be better to use KSD-01 (normaly closed type) at 65C degree.

                      1 Reply Last reply
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                      • O Offline
                        O Offline
                        Omemanti
                        wrote on last edited by Omemanti
                        #426

                        For anyone interested, and to correct my mistakes, I just put up an NRF52 node that is powered by an off the shelf ac/dc converter to be used as a repeater node.. feel free to comment

                        https://www.openhardware.io/view/613/NRF52-Wall-Node-ACDC

                        This topic did most of the research for me, so thank you :)

                        1 Reply Last reply
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                        • R Offline
                          R Offline
                          rmh
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #427

                          Received some hilink transformers today from QIMEI Electronics Network Technology Co., Ltd in China; Compared to the posts above, the 3.3v ones look genuine, but not sure about the 5v ones.

                          The side the pins come out of does not have the central hole and feels 'squigy' so I lifted it off one of them and the space inside is not completely filled with the encapsulation stuff, but it does feel slightly rubbery like the real ones...

                          Maybe a new variant of the real thing? Or fake?

                          These are destined for being outside in waterproof boxes, so I'll let you know if any catch fire....

                          Richard

                          (1_1543265808836_IMG_20181126_202757159_2.jpg 0_1543265808835_IMG_20181126_202828525_2.jpg

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                          • Y Offline
                            Y Offline
                            Yannik Mündler
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #428

                            anything new @rmh ?
                            I just received five of them looking the same like yours.
                            bought from user 7856632 from ebay

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                            • T Offline
                              T Offline
                              TomG
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #429

                              I recently ordered 10 HLK-PM01s from WAVGAT Store on Aliexpress.com. The photo on their advertisement is the same, and looks like you expect, for a genuine Hi-Link product. The products I received recently were the same as @rmh received. The last time I ordered these in July 2018 from WAVGAT Store, I received the same product as their photo. I think I am going to open a dispute and see what happens.

                              1 Reply Last reply
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                              • dbemowskD dbemowsk

                                @soloam Those are the type I am talking about. Put them in the freezer for a bit. They should still be pliable when they come out.
                                https://www.amazon.com/CLIP-HEAT-SINK-KIT/dp/B0032UYTV6

                                T Offline
                                T Offline
                                TomG
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #430

                                @dbemowsk I tried a similar clip, but it didn't work (the fuse still blew when I soldered it). A small piece of wet sponge and a small clip to hold it around the wire lead work the best for me.

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • T Offline
                                  T Offline
                                  TomG
                                  wrote on last edited by TomG
                                  #431

                                  I emailed Hi-Link about the HLK-PW01 power supplies that @rmh, @yannik-mündler and myself purchased. These are the power supplies with a removable bottom.

                                  I sent the following email to Sunny at Hi-Link (contact info: http://www.hlktech.net/contact.php).
                                  ++++
                                  Hello,

                                  Are the two HLK-PM01s in the attached images genuine Hi-Link parts? A major difference is the part on the right has a bottom cover that is easily removable.

                                  I bought the part on the left from an Aliexpress seller in July 2018. The part on the right was bought from the same Aliexpress seller in May 2019.

                                  Thank you very much for your help.
                                  ++++

                                  Here is Sunny's reply:
                                  ++++
                                  Now all of our module are use new version .

                                  The one you bought on 2019 is the new version, the old version is not used yet.

                                  By the way,May I know you are the final user or the reseller?

                                  If you are worried about it,you can buy from our website www.hlktech.net or our Aliexpress store https://hlktech.aliexpress.com/store/211069 directly.
                                  ++++

                                  I went to the Aliexpress page in their email and found the HLK-PM01 page. On that page they say:
                                  ++++
                                  Recently,there are many fake module in the market,in order to Standardize the market environment,keep benifit for the customers,We,Hi-Link,changed our module to the new but more quality version,the back of new version is show as the following picture,currently,the old version and new version were sent random,please pay attention to that!thank you very much!
                                  ++++

                                  They also show images of the previous version (which we are all familiar with) and the new version (with the removable bottom).

                                  So, it appears the HLK-PW01 power supplies with the removable bottom, from a reliable vendor, or directly from Hi-Link, are genuine Hi-Link power supplies.

                                  Below is my two images of the bottom of the two genuine power supplies (old on the left, new on the right).

                                  0_1560350456492_IMG_20190607_164006.jpg
                                  0_1560350483762_IMG_20190607_164018.jpg

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